A Journey to Simon’s Town: Where Happiness Finds You
Simon’s Town is unlike any other place. It’s a captivating blend of stunning beaches, charming Victorian architecture, and awe-inspiring natural beauty. This quaint village is steeped in history, with each person having their own unique tale of adoration for this extraordinary gem.
Picture-perfect Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town. Image by Teagan Cunniffe.
Remember last summer when everything seemed to go awry? Life can be a series of unfortunate events at times. In my case, it was one mishap after another. A project I was working on stretched past its deadline, my employer refused to compensate me for the extra hours, and to top it off, my boyfriend had an unfortunate run-in with African poison ivy. For weeks on end, he was confined to his bed, enduring the agony of incessant itching and an overwhelming frustration as his summer slipped away.
I have to admit something embarrassing: I was feeling really good. Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m not a heartless person. It’s just that there was this certain feeling of joy that I couldn’t shake off. Each morning, the sun would rise and warm up the entire peninsula, the sky would be perfectly clear, and the fever trees just outside my front door would be motionless, basking in the sunlight like lazy cats. I tried my best to uplift the spirits of the man I love, but he took offense to my seemingly endless energy and asked me to give him some space. We had just enough money for basic necessities like food and gas. We had friends who cared about us. And we had the vast ocean calling out to us. So, I decided to fill up the car’s tank, load it up with our essentials, and set off on a journey to Simon’s Town.
If you’re short on cash, Simon’s Town may not be the best place for you. The houses there are worth millions, and the municipal rates are quite high. On top of that, there aren’t any grocery stores in town, and even a simple cucumber at the 7-Eleven is ridiculously expensive. I’ve heard that business rentals there are also outrageously priced. But if you set aside the expensive houses and bring your own food with you, Simon’s Town can actually be a delightful place to visit. It has some of the most beautiful beaches in all of South Africa, and the best part is, they’re open to everyone and completely free of charge.
Imagine driving along the Main Road that wraps around the picturesque peninsula. On one side, you’re greeted by untamed, dark-green and olive fynbos, while on the other side, you catch glimpses of aquamarine coves. It’s a real adventure, as my friends and I discovered when we set out to find the perfect swim spot.
Let me tell you, finding that ideal spot was no easy task. The coves were hidden gems, not easily accessible from the road. To reach them, we had to be extremely careful and nimble, balancing on the edge of the cliffs. A single misstep could send us tumbling down to the treacherous rocks below.
We had to stop and start numerous times, discussing and carefully considering our options. A little pathway might lead us to a beautiful and inviting beach, but then we had to face the daunting climb back up. It was a make-it-or-break-it situation: the effort required to ascend shouldn’t outweigh the joy and relaxation we experienced during our swim.
As I ventured beyond Rocklands Road, I stumbled upon a remarkable find. It wasn’t the most comfortable spot, as it was rough and rugged, but there was this large, smooth, and perfectly round rock that caught my eye. It may not have been ideal for setting up an umbrella, but it had ample space for us to lay out our towels and bask in the warmth. With a sense of anticipation, I took a leap off the rock and plunged into the water below – a breathtaking hue that resembled precious gems. As I descended, I marveled at the seemingly bottomless abyss beneath me, a realm teeming with seals, fish, and quite possibly, even a shark. Gulls gracefully glided across the water’s surface, while oystercatchers screeched in lively conversation. In the distance, a seal playfully leaped out of the water, exposing its sun-kissed belly. The gentle lapping of the water, accompanied by the glimmering reflections of sunlight dancing across the expansive bay, created a mesmerizing spectacle. As the sea’s salt seeped into our skin, a stillness enveloped everyone and everything. In that moment, life stood still, allowing us to truly appreciate the sheer beauty that surrounded us.
False Bay is a bountiful place. That’s one reason why Bruce Robertson, a renowned South African chef, decided to settle here for a more relaxed lifestyle. He’s 45 years old, and although he uses the word “retire,” he spends his time searching for ingredients in nature. He then prepares these finds for the diners who come to his exclusive dining experience at The Flagship, a newly opened restaurant. It’s not an inexpensive meal, but it is a scrumptious feast, especially if you enjoy seafood.
If you’re looking for a place that truly embraces the concept of being local, you’ll love a locavore establishment. It’s a place that strives to source its ingredients from within a relatively small distance from its location. Take Bruce’s place, for instance. He gathers most of what he needs within a 12 to 16 kilometer radius, although he does make a few exceptions, like using risotto rice that’s not local. Now, when I say “gather,” I don’t mean he simply takes a stroll down to the nearby beach. No, no, no. Bruce is more passionate than that.
His establishment is situated in one of the most picturesque spots, close to Boulders, just below Murdoch Valley. Now, this whole area, from Muizenberg to Simon’s Town, all the way to Cape Point and Scarborough, is considered a nature reserve. That means you can’t just pick anything you want from here. It’s off-limits. Bruce understands and respects that. He believes in harvesting sustainably and responsibly, ensuring that the resources are protected for future generations.
But there’s still hope. Once you cross over to Kommetjie, you can start gathering, but there’s a catch. You need to be well-informed about what you can safely eat and pick. It’s not a free-for-all. Bruce emphasizes the importance of knowing and respecting the limits.
Why is he so stringent about all this? Well, it’s because the bay is the lifeline for the sea life and fish stocks in the area. It’s a fragile ecosystem that needs time to regenerate and replenish itself. By being mindful and responsible, Bruce contributes to the sustainability and viability of the local marine environment.
I love this place for many reasons. It’s just amazing,” he tells me. “There are so many hidden beaches – I won’t tell you where they are, and I totally get why. And there are so many beautiful rock pools too.” The running, swimming, cycling routes, and the natural promenade here are truly special. I have a six-year-old daughter, and there’s plenty for kids to do here too. We love going fishing on the pier. And then there’s the history, which is absolutely mind-blowing. I’m a navy guy myself, so I feel a strong connection to the community.”
(We were deeply saddened to hear about Bruce’s unexpected passing. In the January issue, you can read Sonya Schoeman’s heartfelt tribute to him in the editor’s letter.)
Navy ports all around the world have a similar vibe, according to David Erickson, who is the chairman of Simon’s Town Historical Society. He says that they are more relaxed compared to other places. One reason for this is that they hold on to their old buildings. In fact, the oldest navy building in Simon’s Town was built way back in 1743. If it had been a commercial dockyard, it would have been demolished a long time ago, Erickson believes.
The Historical Society was established in 1960, and its mission is to preserve the town’s rich history. Most people know that Simon’s Town has a long history, but what is not as well-known is that it fought against forced removals during apartheid. “We tried to get an exemption. We had a very diverse community here with people of different races and religions living together. The beaches were not segregated, and everything seemed to be working fine,” explains Erickson. Nowadays, Simon’s Town has become a place where the older generation dominates, almost like a retirement village. Percy Kindo and his wife Mary were young residents of Simon’s Town back in the late 1960s. Percy’s great-grandfather owned a property on Cardiff Road, and that’s where Percy’s grandfather, father, and siblings were all born. The Kindos are a creative family – Percy’s brother is the renowned choreographer Christopher Kindo, and Percy himself works as a stonemason and bricklayer. He is also the godson of the late artist Peter Clarke, who was born in Simon’s Town.
When I look at the pictures Percy shows me, it’s like stepping back in time. His father’s band, one of many in our little town, used to rock the stage at Alfred Hall. The place still stands, but these days, it’s an empty shell of what it used to be.
There’s something special about this town, something that draws people in. Mary tells me stories about the fishermen who would bring in huge piles of tuna that could rival a child’s size. I can’t help but grin when I see the pictures of everyone beaming with joy. Jubilee Square used to be filled with young folks, bustling with energy and excitement. They would head down to the beach for a dip, enjoying the vibrant church community that thrived here. This place was alive, buzzing with activity and life.
Now, it’s different. It’s quiet, and people mostly keep to themselves. Eight families managed to reclaim their land, but out of those, only two, including the Kindo family, had the money to build a new house. It will never be the same, they say. The soul of this town has changed, but they had to come back, to rebuild on the land they knew so well. They have other properties, but this was the only one that truly called to them, the only place they could truly call home.
From the wide porch, I can see the stunning stretch of bay and the train station rooftop where commuters disembark at Long Beach. The water is calm and transparent, with a sandy bottom, and just beyond the swimming boundary, you can spot yachts gliding by. Sometimes dolphins play in that area too. Percy, my friend, has a special fondness for this beach. He visits early in the summer, ahead of the crowds and sweltering heat. During his visits, he often spots families who once lived in Simon’s Town. Despite living in Ocean View and other distant areas, they make the journey just to be in this beloved place.
I find myself at Baxter House, a lovely clapboard residence perched at the edge of the golf course. This house, owned by Elle and Sid Katzeff, offers a spectacular view of Boulders Beach. From the wooden deck, I observe hordes of tourists on the boardwalk, marveling at the penguins strolling along the sand, perching on rocks, and occasionally hiding behind them. This time, my visit is one of luxury. In the morning, I bask in the sun with my boyfriend, savoring a cup of robust coffee. It’s been seven months since he battled poison ivy, but the scars remain. The upstairs bedroom and lounge are flooded with sunlight, inducing a meditative state. This is because the bay in front of us constantly transforms with shifting light and fleeting shadows. Dramatic scenes unfold as clouds gather over the mountains on the opposite side. As we admire the stunning view, we can’t help but envy the Katzeffs and covet their way of life. We perceive it as the epitome of beauty and the most ideal existence we could imagine. The sound of the sea’s gentle roar permeates the house, accompanied by the chatter of penguins and seagulls, and the rustle of the wind in the trees.
Hey there! Let me tell you a story about Jean Louw, who lives in a little wooden hut on Boulders Beach in Simon’s Town. She’s in her 90s, and her hut is the only one left standing. Unfortunately, when she’s no longer with us, they’ll tear it down. But let me tell you, every sunny day, Jean is down there at the beach, doing her crossword and gazing out at the sea. And you know what? She hardly ever gets sick. I guess that’s because she’s so happy. They say that if you’re happy, you’re less likely to get sick. And that’s what’s special about Simon’s Town. It’s like a Happy Place for so many people.
Let’s plan your trip!
How to get to Simon’s Town?
If you don’t feel like driving, just hop on the Southern Suburbs train at Cape Town Station and ride it all the way to the end (You can download train schedules and check fares). On Sundays, there’s even a cool old steam train you can ride (It costs R250 for adults and R150 for kids under 12). If you prefer driving, take the M3 road from Cape Town and head south until you reach the T-junction at Steenberg Road. From there, you can turn left to go through Muizenberg or over Boyes Drive, or turn right to go over the Ou Kaapse Weg (M64) pass through Fish Hoek. Alternatively, you can take the longer route on the M65 road, passing through Kommetjie, Scarborough, and Cape Point. It’s a beautiful drive.
As for the best time to visit,
I can’t help but be captivated by Simon’s Town all year round. The beauty of this place remains constant, regardless of the season. In the summer, when the sun shines bright, the town buzzes with activity. Tourism is at its peak, and the streets are bustling. However, if you prefer a quieter experience, the mornings are your best bet. Take your time to soak in the tranquility before the crowds arrive.
From February to May, Simon’s Town offers a delightful retreat. The number of visitors decreases, allowing you to fully appreciate the town’s charm without the usual hustle and bustle. The weather during this period is simply perfect – not too hot, not too cold. Just the right kind of sun-kissed warmth to make your day more enjoyable. However, do keep in mind that the wind can be quite strong at any time of the year. So it’s wise to be prepared for the southeaster, which can blow at any moment.
It’s during the winter months that my love for Simon’s Town truly deepens. The stormy weather gives the bay a moody and dramatic ambiance that is simply breathtaking. As the waves crash against the shore, the town transforms into a mesmerizing sight. And the best part? Prices are more affordable and budget-friendly. So, not only do you get to experience the magic of this place, but you also get to do it without breaking the bank.
Unforgettable Experiences in Simon’s Town
If you’re someone who enjoys spending time outdoors, you’ll find plenty of activities to keep you entertained on the peninsula. One popular option for cyclists is Main Road (M4), which not only offers beautiful views but also provides a great workout. Just keep in mind that in some areas, the shoulders of the road can be quite narrow.
If hiking is more your style, Simon’s Town has several options to choose from. The Simon’s Town website has a list of easier hikes that you can explore. But if you’re up for a challenge, I recommend trying the Swartkop to Smitswinkel route. This longer and more strenuous hike begins at the end of Jan Smuts Road and takes you close to Smitswinkel Bay. From there, you can even walk down to one of the most beautiful beaches in the area.
A must-see attraction on the peninsula is Cape Point. This place is absolutely breathtaking! While you’re there, make sure to check out Buffels Bay. It’s a gorgeous swimming spot, but be cautious of the baboons that roam the area. Diaz Beach may also catch your eye, but be aware that it has dangerous currents, so it’s not suitable for swimming.
In addition to its natural wonders, Simon’s Town is home to five fascinating museums. One of them is the Simon’s Town Museum, which covers a wide range of topics. You can contact them at Tel 021 786 3046 to learn more about their exhibits and visiting hours.
If you’re ever in Simon’s Town and looking for things to do, there are plenty of options to choose from. First up on the list is the Heritage Museum, which is a great place to learn about Muslim history. You can give them a call at 021 786 2302. Another interesting museum in the area is the SA Naval Museum. They’ve got some fascinating exhibits, and you can reach them at 021 787 4686. If you’re into toys, the Warrior Toy Museum is the perfect spot for you. It’s a collector’s paradise and a dream come true for kids. You can give them a call at 021 786 1395. And last but not least, there’s the Submarine Museum, located inside an old submarine. It’s a unique experience that you don’t want to miss, and you can reach them at 021 787 4686.
If you’re interested in history, you should also visit Simon’s Town Historic Mile. They focus on the town’s old buildings and it’s a great way to learn about the area’s past.
Now, let’s talk about the beaches. The coast here is filled with hidden treasures and beautiful rock pools, but you’ll have to do a bit of exploring to find them. There are also some well-known beaches that are great for different purposes. If you’re looking for a beach right at the start of Simon’s Town, then Long Beach is a good option. It’s located in the harbor and near the railway station. The water is calm and beautiful, and you’ll have a great view of the yachts. Just keep in mind that it can get crowded on hot days. Seaforth is another popular beach. It’s quite protected and located between the navy harbor wall and a restaurant. This one can also get busy, but it’s convenient because there’s a carpark right there. If you’re looking for a smaller beach, Water’s Edge is a good choice. And of course, we can’t forget about Boulders Beach. This is the place where you can swim with penguins! It’s a unique experience and the water has a lovely milky color. Just keep in mind that there’s an entry fee of R55.
If you’re willing to explore a bit further, there are some other beautiful beaches in the area. Windmill Beach, located off the golf course, is a small and charming spot. To the left of Windmill Beach, you’ll find another lovely beach. There are many hidden gems in this area, but make sure to get there early as they tend to fill up quickly. If you keep going, you’ll come across Miller’s Point, which has a sandy beach. To the right of Miller’s Point is Rumbly Bay, which has a rock pool. Both of these spots are popular for swimming, but if you visit during certain times or on weekdays, you might find them less crowded. Lastly, there’s Smitswinkel Bay. This one is for strong swimmers and requires a bit of a hike. Just a heads up, the locals might not be too welcoming, so be prepared for that.
So whether you’re into history or looking to spend a day at the beach, Simon’s Town has something for everyone. Enjoy exploring!
What you need to know
When you visit Simon’s Town, keep in mind that cellphone reception is quite poor in the area. So, if you’re planning to explore the coast, make sure to pack some essentials like a hat, plenty of sunblock, towels, blankets, snacks, and lots of water. There aren’t many shopping options in Simon’s Town, and whatever is available tends to be very expensive. It’s best to be prepared and bring everything you need with you.
Insider’s tip: If you’re craving some delicious pies, head over to The Sweetest Thing on 82 St George’s Street. Doreen Alcock bakes amazing beef, chicken, and lamb pies that are packed with tasty meat.
Where to stay in Simon’s Town
Budget
Hey there! I wanted to tell you about this cool place called Hoerikwaggo Tented Camp, located at Smitswinkel. It’s a self-catering spot that may be basic, but let me tell you, it’s very comfortable.
Each tent has its own shower and bathroom, so you don’t have to worry about sharing with anyone. The communal areas have a great vibe, and you can enjoy a beautiful view of the mountains.
Now, because of those cheeky baboons, the camp is surrounded by a fence. It’s not the best thing to look at, but it’s necessary to keep those baboons from causing any mischief!
I have to say, it can get quite windy at the camp, and the tent flaps around a bit. But don’t worry, it’s still easy to sleep well and get a good night’s rest.
Now here’s the annoying part: the management has this policy of locking guests in and out. It’s not the most convenient thing, but hey, we’ve got to keep everyone safe, right?
The pricing is reasonable too, starting at R580 for a two-bed tent. If you’re interested, you can make your bookings through SANParks.
Insider’s tip: Just a little secret, there are six tents available. It’s best to book them as a group so you and your friends can be closer to each other and have a tent further away from the communal area. Just a little competitive edge, you know?
Reasonable
Welcome to Whale View Manor Boutique Hotel! We have a total of 10 rooms, each with its own unique style. You’ll find six of our rooms facing the breathtaking sea, while the other four offer stunning views of the majestic mountains. Although our rooms are not big in size, they provide utmost comfort and coziness.
Our sitting and dining rooms are located on the lower floor, allowing you to soak in the mesmerizing views of the sea. And speaking of the sea, the beach just below the hotel is one of the finest along the coast. You’ll definitely want to secure your spot early to enjoy its beauty.
Starting at only R595 per person if you’re sharing a room, or R850 for a single occupancy, our rates include a delectable breakfast that will surely delight your taste buds. Plus, you can visit our website whaleviewmanor.co.za for more details.
Insider’s tip: If you want a slightly more spacious and luxurious experience, make sure to book room six!
Discover Ultimate Luxury
Imagine waking up every morning in Baxter House, a charming clapboard house with white wooden floors that give it a bright and cheerful ambiance. From its vantage point, you can bask in the breathtaking views of Boulders Beach and discover a myriad of hidden coves waiting to be explored. This house is an absolute gem, offering multiple communal areas where you can enjoy leisurely lunches or relaxed drinks with your loved ones. It’s everything you could ever want in a home – comfortable, inviting, and devoid of any unnecessary pretension.
Of course, Baxter House does come with a hefty price tag, starting at R5 000 per day during the off-season. However, considering its five spacious bedrooms that can sleep up to twelve people, it’s the ideal choice for larger groups or families. Alternatively, if you’re looking for a more luxurious self-catering option, ABC is an excellent choice with rates starting at R3500 per night. Pay a visit to their website at perfecthideaways.co.za to learn more.
Perched precariously close to Boulder’s Beach, Baxter House provides an idyllic retreat with its serene white floors and refreshing color palette that exude positive energy. Take a moment to admire the beautiful interior captured by Teagan Cunniffe in the accompanying photo.
Your Dining Options in Simon’s Town
If I were you, I’d definitely choose Bruce’s incredible five-course seafood lunch at The Flagship. It may cost R720 per person for lunch, but trust me, as a food lover, it’s absolutely worth every penny. The best part? The food is sourced straight from the peninsula, which gives it a unique touch and makes it even more delicious. The menu includes five mouthwatering courses, and everything, from the salt to the fish, snails, and lobster, is sourced from the sea. And let’s not forget about the wine! Each course is paired with a glass of Backsberg wine, so you’re in for a treat. Plus, Bruce himself is a larger-than-life character who works barefoot and prepares the dishes right in front of you. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience you won’t want to miss.
Now, while there aren’t many other great options available, these are the ones I highly recommend. So, what are you waiting for? Check out Bruce’s seafood lunch at The Flagship and get ready to indulge in a culinary adventure like no other. You can find more information at chefbrucerobertson.com.
When it comes to finding a good place to eat in Cape Town, there are a few options that stand out. Let me tell you about some of my favorite spots.
First up is The Lighthouse Café. It’s a great option for dinner since there aren’t many places open at night. Their menu is decent with reasonable prices, but it’s popular, so make sure to book in advance. I tried their fish and chips for only R73, and my partner loved their steak for R120. We also had a delicious mint and chevin salad for R70.
Another great option is Just Sushi Bar & Restaurant. They offer a variety of dim sum and sushi, and it’s really good. However, it can be a bit pricey. We had five pieces of dim sum, soup, and a platter, and it cost us R450.
If you’re looking for something sweet, you should definitely try The Sweetest Thing Patisserie. They have excellent pies starting from R24 and tempting sweet treats starting from R15. Keep in mind that they’re only open during the day, but the quality and value make it worth it.
If you’re looking for a great place to eat in Simon’s Town, Neptune’s Galley is a fantastic choice. Located right on the harbor, this restaurant offers excellent value for your money. It’s also a family-friendly spot with plenty of space for kids to play on the grass. You can enjoy a delicious fish and chips meal for just R55, and they even have options for those who don’t eat wheat.
Another option to consider is The Meeting Place. Although it can be hit or miss, overall it’s a good choice. In the winter, they have a cozy fireplace that adds to the ambiance. I personally enjoyed their breakfast, and their scrambled eggs are reasonably priced at R40.
If you’re willing to overlook the fact that it’s a tourist trap, The Black Marlin is worth a visit. The deck offers breathtaking views, and it’s the perfect spot to relax with a glass of wine. I recommend keeping it simple and ordering sandwiches.
