I recently stumbled upon an intriguing place called Xolobeni – a coastal village nestled along the eastern shores of South Africa. This village is blessed with an abundance of natural resources, including vast stretches of sandy beaches. The sand, far from being commonplace, holds immense value, both in terms of its cultural significance and its potential for tourism development.
The sand dunes in Xolobeni are not just ordinary heaps of fine grains; they are living relics, carrying stories from generations past. These dunes have witnessed the footsteps of the Xhosa people, who have walked upon them for centuries, leaving behind their indelible mark. This sand is infused with history and culture, and it serves as a powerful reminder of the rich heritage of the land.
But the value of these sands extends beyond their cultural importance. The beach sands of Xolobeni have captured the imagination of the tourism industry, which sees their potential to attract visitors from near and far. Imagine walking barefoot on the soft, golden shores and feeling the gentle embrace of the coastal breeze. Picture yourself gazing out at the vast expanse of the Indian Ocean, its azure waters sparkling under the warm African sun. It’s a paradise waiting to be explored.
The allure of Xolobeni lies not only in its natural beauty but also in the opportunities it offers for sustainable tourism development. With careful planning and responsible practices, tourism can bring economic growth and prosperity to the community, while preserving the delicate ecosystem of this coastal haven. It’s a delicate balance, a dance between progress and preservation.
So, dear reader, I invite you to embark on a journey to Xolobeni, where the value of sand is more than meets the eye. Discover the stories it tells, the dreams it inspires, and the potential it holds. Experience the wonders of this coastal gem and contribute to its sustainable development. Together, let’s unlock the true value of Xolobeni and create a future where sand and dreams intertwine for generations to come.
When I first laid eyes on Xolobeni, I was captivated by its untamed and timeless allure. It was a place where nature thrived and revealed its bountiful treasures – mighty waterfalls, meandering rivers, lush forests, and striking red dunes. The picturesque scenery painted a picture of a world untouched by time.
As I slowly guide the Renault Captur to Xolobeni, I can’t help but feel skeptical about the beauty I’m about to witness. The cold, foggy morning in July makes it hard to see and appreciate the untamed beauty that lies ahead. The golden brown grasslands appear empty, with nondescript shrubs, bushes, and scattered mud huts and modern houses. However, my perspective begins to change once I meet Richard Hlongwe, an English teacher at the local Xolobeni Primary School. He becomes my guide into the mysteries of this place.
‘We only have a few minutes to talk. I need to go fetch water by the river for my house construction. As you can see, we don’t have water in our yards. After that, I have a trip to Bizana with my guruguru,’ he says, pointing to the white Kia van parked nearby.
LEFT: Richard Hlongwe and his family are getting water from the Mnyameni River, which is close to their home in Mtolani village. RIGHT: Richard Hlongwe, who is a teacher at Xolobeni Primary School, is accompanying me and serving as my reliable guide.
I met Richard only an hour ago when I stopped by the Qaphela shop to get a drink. At first, he seemed hesitant about the interview, probably because he thought it was about politics. I assured him that it wasn’t, and that seemed to put him at ease. The village has been tense lately due to the proposed mining of titanium by an Australian company called MRC. Even though the company has pulled out, the idea of mining the ore still hangs over everyone’s head. As we sit in the car and talk, the sun slowly rises, casting a sickly yellow glow over the ocean. It doesn’t provide much light, but it does reveal the breathtaking view of the red sand dunes to me for the first time.
‘I was born not far from those dunes,’ he points to a house nearby. ‘We moved here a few years back. If you come tomorrow, I can take you there. We used to ride our bicycles along the dunes.’
As I drive back to Port Edward where I’m staying, my mind keeps playing back our hour-long conversation. Only people like him, who have enough money, can buy those green ‘jojo’ water tanks and store rainwater. Everybody else gets their water from the river. Only a few houses have electricity because they can’t afford a solar system that costs between R1500 and R2000. Some of the houses have small solar panels, but they can only connect to certain types of TVs and you have to pay R60 every month to rent them. Despite all of this, I feel really happy and content about these villages.
Look at this picture on the left. It shows Nyavini village. On the right, you can see a picture of something important in Xolobeni: livestock. Livestock is a big part of the wealth in Xolobeni. It’s not just about the money, though. Livestock also has cultural and social importance.
When I returned to Xolobeni for the second time, the sun was shining brightly. Richard seemed to be in a great mood, so we decided to start our adventure by visiting the Mnyameni River. It was only a short drive away from Richard’s house, and we were excited to see the caves and waterfalls there.
As we approached the river, the three caves appeared before us like ancient spirits. Stepping inside the first cave, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of superstition enveloping me. The atmosphere was eerie yet captivating, and I couldn’t help but imagine myself writing a supernatural novel in this very spot. However, Richard interrupted my thoughts as he shared his dream of building a guest house near the caves. I immediately thought it was a brilliant idea.
The area surrounding the caves and waterfall has tremendous potential for tourism. However, due to the ongoing conflict, the locals have become wary of sharing the beauty of Xolobeni with outsiders. If they do decide to reveal the hidden gems, they do so with caution, fearful of the consequences.
After an hour, I’m finally headed towards the red sand dunes. Let me tell you, the journey is far from comfortable. The road is so bad that it feels like we’re not even on a proper road. It’s more like a bumpy, winding track that cuts through the grass and connects one house to another.
Before I became a teacher, I used to swim at the Kwanyana Estuary and Isikhombe River. Those were the good old days. But now, things have changed. The Campsite Lodge next to the river, where I used to work, is closed because of a mining conflict.
It’s really a shame. What this place really needs are the basics. We need water, proper roads, and a clinic. We don’t need mines digging up our land. The only clinic we have is all the way in Mgungu, and it’s too far for most people. And if you want to buy basic things, you have to go to Bizana or Port Shepstone. It’s not convenient at all. People have to pay R30 just for a single trip to get there.
Today, we were on our way to the dunes when we hit a roadblock. There was a trailer stuck in the road, blocking our path. It was a frustrating situation. We had no choice but to turn around and go back. But then, out of nowhere, a man named Mr. Jali appeared.
Mr. Jali is a traditional healer in Xolobeni. He knows a lot about the plants that are native to this area. It was fascinating to talk to him and learn about the unique plants that grow here.
I’m standing in the middle of the vibrant red desert, known as the isikhombe. It’s a fascinating landscape, peppered with unique plants and legends that capture my imagination.
‘Look at this plant, it’s called umhlondlo,’ Mr. Jali says, pointing out a creeping vine with leaves of two different colors. ‘It’s used for stomach aches.’ As we continue driving, he shows me another plant called bhulu, which is said to capture the lightning.
Mr. Jali is full of wisdom and offers his support in all aspects of life, even fertility. He tells me to contact him if I ever face any challenges. It’s comforting to know that he’s there to help.
What strikes me the most about the people here is their contentment with their traditional way of life. Despite their limited resources, they find happiness in the simplicity and beauty of their surroundings.
Our day ends at the breathtaking Xolobeni waterfalls. The Mnyameni River cascades over rugged cliffs, creating a truly mesmerizing sight. It’s a place where time stands still, and nature’s wonder takes center stage.
I’m filled with anticipation as I arrive at Mtentu Lodge the next day. The wind greets us, blowing gently against our faces, as we step out of the car. The air is thick with the sweet fragrance of flowers and plants, creating a delightful atmosphere. The breathtaking ocean stretches out before us, appearing as the very essence of creation itself.
Our timing couldn’t be better, as we have the privilege of meeting Russel Hartshorne – one of the lodge’s partners. He eagerly shares his knowledge and experiences of this incredible area with us. I learn that Mtentu Lodge attracts visitors from all walks of life – from avid hikers to cycling enthusiasts and nature lovers alike. It’s a place that captivates people’s hearts.
However, there is an underlying concern among the villagers here. The clashes over mining threaten to divide their peaceful community and endanger the natural beauty that has already captured my heart. It’s a delicate balance between preserving the land and allowing for progress.
After an hour, Dorcas Rattray, our host, insists that I try out a solar shower. She wants me to fully embrace the beauty of this place. If I do decide to take a shower, she urges me to do it before 4:30 pm. I decide to go for it at 3:30 pm and it turns out to be an incredibly refreshing experience. The water is nice and warm and the shower is positioned so that I can look out at the breathtaking ocean below. Once I’m done, we decide to explore the area and we end up walking past the campsite to the Mtentu Estuary.
As we make our way towards the estuary, we notice a few people on the beach. Some of them are hiking towards the Mkhambathi Nature Reserve on the other side of the river mouth. We continue our exploration and head back to the estuary before sunset. By this time, the high tide has covered most of the beach. We spot a man pushing a rowing boat with children inside. The sunset is simply stunning as it reflects on the water.
LEFT: This is me at the Mtentu River estuary. RIGHT: Walking along the beach at sunset, feeling the water rise as the tide comes in. It’s a peaceful and serene moment.
The next day, I wake up early at six in the morning for our meeting with Richard. He’s an important person to us, and we want to make sure we’re on time. Luckily, the trailer that was stuck here before is gone, and we can easily make our way through the brown grass, fields of amadumbe, and the cattle kraals. Finally, we arrive at the Isikhombe red dunes, and let me tell you, they are absolutely stunning. As the dunes stretch towards the Indian Ocean, the Kwanyana Estuary winds its way through the landscape, creating a beautiful sight to behold.
Richard, who is from here, points to some houses nearby and tells me that’s where he was born. He promises to introduce me to his relatives later on. As I take a moment to stand on the dunes and observe the red soil beneath my feet, a strange feeling washes over me. It’s hard to put into words, but it feels like a mix of awe and wonder. It’s almost as if this entire area is like a person who has been wooed and eventually rejected, choosing to protect its unique identity instead of giving in to an unwanted relationship. Deep down, I feel a desire to save these dunes from the impersonal nature of forced connections.
‘Check this out!’ I exclaim excitedly, as I grab a handful of sand. I explain that these tiny black specks might be the precious titanium that mining companies are eager to uncover.
‘You know, not many folks around here understand the impact mining can have,’ I continue, trying to make my point. ‘Most people here aren’t experts in mining. They think the company will just bring in their own workers and leave the rest of us high and dry. But our community relies on this land for our cattle, goats, and sheep. Mining means we lose our grazing land, and that’s a real blow for the people here.’
It’s a real conundrum. On one hand, there’s the allure of potential riches hidden beneath the surface. On the other hand, there’s the harsh reality of losing the land that sustains our livelihoods.
It’s crucial to strike a balance and consider all sides of the equation. We need to find a way to promote economic growth and preserve our way of life. So, my friend, it’s up to you. Can we find a solution that benefits both our community and the mining industry?
I’m struck by Richard’s words, which bring to my attention an old superstition I’ve heard about the dunes. These sandy hills have a long history of conflict, stretching all the way back to the Mfecane era. Legend has it that the vibrant red sands were revealed when over 30,000 cattle were kept here in the 1820s, after being seized by King Shaka’s warriors from the AmaMpondo people. Some believed that the hooves of those captured cattle imprinted upon the land, leaving a lasting mark on the earth. As I gaze at the dunes, a mix of awe, nostalgia, and a flood of memories rush over me.
When I was growing up in Soweto, a town far from the ocean, I used to dream about visiting the sea. It seemed like such a magical place, and I couldn’t wait to experience its beauty for myself. Finally, in 1993, I had the chance to see the sea in Durban. I remember sitting on the beach, mesmerized by its grandeur, and I could have spent hours just gazing at its magnificence.
It was surprising to me, however, that the locals didn’t seem to appreciate the sea as much as I did. I soon realized that when something remarkable is always in front of you, you may not fully grasp its significance. This seems to be the case with the people of Xolobeni. They live surrounded by beauty every day, but perhaps they have become accustomed to it and fail to recognize its splendor.
Interestingly enough, the discussions about mining in that area have also sparked a newfound awareness among the community. They are starting to understand the value of their land. This is why individuals like Richard are eager to reclaim parts of it while they still have the chance. They don’t want to miss out on the opportunity to benefit from the tourism boom that may eventually arrive.
As I bid farewell to Xolobeni, I can’t help but be reminded of Miriam Makeba’s song Amampondo, which I used to enjoy as a young boy in Soweto. This hidden corner of the Wild Coast feels like a gateway to a bigger and more liberated society than anything I have encountered before. It’s like stepping back in time to a place filled with a profound love and beauty that surpasses anything I’ve ever known.
I consider myself fortunate to have experienced the unspoiled natural beauty, rich traditions, and fascinating history of the AmaMpondo people before it undergoes inevitable changes. This land holds a sense of wholeness that is difficult to find elsewhere. It’s a place that captures the essence of timelessness and the unfathomable depth of human existence. I can’t help but wonder what the future will hold for this remarkable place.
As I prepare to leave, I carry with me a deep appreciation for the unique blend of landscapes, cultures, and stories that intertwine in Xolobeni. It’s a reminder that there are still places in this world where untouched beauty exists, waiting to be discovered and cherished. I urge you, from the depths of my being, to experience the awe-inspiring magnificence of Xolobeni for yourself. Trust me, it’s a journey you won’t soon forget.

I can’t help but be mesmerized by the enchanting waterfalls, also known as ingxangxasi, that grace the majestic Mnyameni River.
Contents
Let’s plan your trip
How to get there
To reach this hidden gem, you’ll need to embark on a journey of approximately 130 kilometers south of Port Edward. Keep in mind that due to ongoing road works on the R61 and the rough gravel road leading to the coast, your voyage may take longer than expected. It is advisable to use a 4×4 vehicle for the best experience. To get to Xolobeni, take the R61 from Port Edward until you pass the Wild Coast Sun. Then, make a left turn at Bhekela village. Follow the gravel road, which will guide you towards the sparkling ocean, and as you approach the Xolobeni district, you will be welcomed by a village nestled against vibrant red dunes.
Best time to visit
If you’re wondering when to embark on this adventure, I highly recommend planning your trip between March and July. During these months, the rainfall is minimal, ensuring that the gravel roads remain dry and navigable, while the temperatures are pleasantly moderate.
Plan your budget
When my friend and I went on our trip, we spent about R8000 for the entire week. That covered everything – our place to stay, our meals, and the car we rented. We could have stayed at a cheaper place than Mtentu Lodge, but we thought it was the most charming option.
Here’s some important information you need to know:
Xolobeni doesn’t have water or electricity, and most places, including Mtentu Lodge, don’t have cell-phone reception. So make sure you’re prepared for that. There aren’t any big stores or gas stations either, so stock up on supplies and fill your tank in Port Edward or Bizana before you get there. Oh, and don’t forget your cash. And one more thing – it’s not a good idea to drive at night because there are animals on the road, like cows, goats, and sheep. Also, just so you know, fishing isn’t allowed in the Mtentu River.
Here are some things you can do in Xolobeni:
Let’s go on a hike in the Mkhambathi Nature Reserve! This place is truly special, with its stunning pockets of indigenous forest and a waterfall that cascades right into the ocean. It’s a sight you won’t want to miss! And that’s not all – you might even spot some incredible wildlife like eland and zebra.
If you’re interested in exploring this natural wonder, all it takes is an entry fee of just R20 per person. And if you want to make the most of your experience, you can also opt for a guided tour from Mtentu Lodge. For just R50 per person, they’ll show you all the hidden gems and share fascinating insights about the reserve. Trust me, it’s worth every penny.
When you’re ready to make a booking, head over to visiteasterncape.co.za or mtentulodge.co.za. These websites have all the information you need to plan your adventure.
So, what are you waiting for? Lace up your hiking boots, grab your sense of adventure, and get ready to embark on an unforgettable journey through the magnificent Mkhambathi Nature Reserve. It’s time to discover the beauty of nature like never before!
Hey there! Are you up for a thrilling adventure? Let me tell you about some amazing experiences you can have in the Mtentu River area.
First up, we have the option to canoe up the river and witness three stunning waterfalls. The Mtentu River is famous for its kingfish, which are most active between December and February. You might also catch a glimpse of loggerhead turtles and otters along the way. To see the first two waterfalls, all you need to do is rent a boat and paddle up. It’s a fun and relaxing way to explore the river. The third waterfall, called Swallowtail, is a bit more of an adventure. It requires a hike and a guide, but trust me, it’s totally worth it. The scenery is absolutely breathtaking. The hike takes about half a day and costs R60 per person. If you prefer, you can simply hire a boat for R50.
Another exciting option is to go on a horseback ride from the Wild Coast Sun to the Mtentu River estuary. This scenic ride takes you through six charming villages, and you’ll get to experience the area in a unique way. Plus, it’s a great opportunity to support the local communities. The cost for this unforgettable experience is R500 per person.
But wait, that’s not all! If you’re up for a longer adventure, you can embark on the five-day Amadiba Explorer hike. This extraordinary journey allows you to immerse yourself in the local culture by staying overnight in villages and sleeping in traditional rondavels on the floor. It’s an incredible way to connect with the community and experience their way of life. The cost for this immersive hike is R4,500 per person.
Come and explore the breathtaking waterfall on the Mnyameni River with me as your guide. It only costs R350 for a group of 10 people, and an additional R350 for larger groups.
Discover cozy accommodations near Xolobeni
Experience the beauty of Mtentu Lodge and its six cabins connected by charming wooden walkways. Prices start from R700 per cabin, accommodating up to four people, and R100 per person for camping. Check out mtentulodge.co.za for more information.
Plan your stay at Port Edward Holiday Resort, offering comfortable chalets for two to four guests. Prices start from R730 per chalet. Visit portedward.co.za for bookings and details.
Immerse yourself in the local culture at Mtentu Homestay, Siyabonga Ndovela’s picturesque Pondo home overlooking the magnificent Mkhambathi Reserve. Enjoy delicious meals and a warm welcome for only R350 per person. Call 0710084989 to book, or make a reservation through Mtentu Lodge.
Indulge in delectable dining experiences
Welcome to Mtentu Lodge! We have delicious meals available for you throughout the day. You can enjoy a hearty breakfast, a satisfying lunch, and a scrumptious supper for only R300 per person per day. If you prefer, we can also prepare packed lunches or picnics upon request. Our menu caters to vegetarians as well, so everyone can find something to enjoy. And the best part? Tea and coffee are on us! Simply give us a call at 0838053356 or visit mtentulodge.co.za to make your reservation.
Come visit Beach Bobbies Cocktail Bar & Restaurant in Port Edward! Our menu is designed to satisfy all taste buds. You can indulge in our mouthwatering steak and chips, starting from R63. If you’re a seafood lover, we have a selection of delicious options for you. And if you’re in the mood for pizza, we’ve got that too! Our pizzas are up to R55. To experience our scrumptious offerings, call us at 0393112333 or visit portedward.co.za.
If you’re interested in learning more about how we evaluate and challenge potentially harmful and unsustainable practices on the Wild Coast, we invite you to visit swc.org.za. There, you’ll find valuable information about our efforts to protect this beautiful area.
This captivating story was first featured in the September 2016 issue of Getaway magazine. In this issue, you’ll discover a variety of affordable destinations within South Africa, uncover great hideaways for photography enthusiasts, and get an insider’s guide to traveling in Thailand. Be sure to grab your copy from shelves starting August 22nd.
