Discover the Magic of Baviaanskloof’s Leopard Trail

If you’re a nature enthusiast like me, exploring the great outdoors is always an exciting adventure. That’s why I highly recommend you embark on the incredible Leopard Trail in Baviaanskloof. This trail promises an unforgettable experience that will leave you in awe of Mother Nature’s wonders.

The Leopard Trail is nestled in the heart of the breathtaking Baviaanskloof Nature Reserve. As I walked through this pristine wilderness, it felt like I was stepping into a world untouched by time. The rugged terrain, dramatic mountain ranges, and lush vegetation create a picturesque backdrop that will captivate your senses and transport you to a realm of serenity.

One of the things that makes the Leopard Trail so special is the abundant wildlife you can encounter along the way. As you meander through the vibrant landscapes, keep your eyes peeled for the resident leopards and other enchanting creatures that call this place home. It’s a thrilling experience to witness these majestic animals in their natural habitat.

But the magic of the Leopard Trail doesn’t end with its wildlife. The trail itself is well-maintained, offering a moderate hiking challenge that caters to all experience levels. Whether you’re an avid hiker or a beginner seeking an adventure, you’ll find joy in navigating the trails and conquering each new turn.

Immerse yourself in the rich biodiversity as you wander through diverse ecosystems, from riverine forests to Karoo plains. The ever-changing landscape will constantly surprise you, revealing hidden wonders at every corner. Take a moment to connect with nature, breathe in the fresh air, and let the tranquility wash over you.

As you walk the Leopard Trail, you’ll also come across ancient rock art sites that tell stories of the indigenous people who once thrived in this land. These sacred sites offer a glimpse into the history and cultural significance of the area, allowing you to appreciate the deep-rooted heritage of Baviaanskloof.

Choosing the Leopard Trail means embarking on a journey of self-discovery and personal growth. The solitude of the trail provides the perfect opportunity for introspection and reflection. Disconnect from the bustling modern world and reconnect with yourself as you embrace the beauty of solitude.

When it comes to planning your adventure, keep in mind the various logistics that need consideration. Ensure you have suitable hiking gear, ample water, and a detailed map to guide your way. Additionally, make sure you obtain any required permits and familiarize yourself with the rules and regulations of the reserve to ensure a safe and respectful journey.

So, if you’re ready for an awe-inspiring experience that will ignite your sense of wonder, the Leopard Trail in Baviaanskloof awaits. Lace up your boots, pack your backpack, and let the enchantment of nature guide you on a journey you’ll treasure for a lifetime.

Hey there! I recently embarked on a truly amazing adventure – a four-day hike through the breathtaking Baviaanskloof. Let me tell you, it was an experience like no other! As I walked along the scenic trail, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe and wonder at the sheer beauty of the surroundings.

Accompanied by my talented photographer friend, Teagan Cunniffe, we delved into the heart of this picturesque landscape. Every step brought us closer to a hidden treasure, a serendipitous surprise waiting around the next corner.

Throughout our journey, there was one thing that never ceased to amaze me – the elusive nature of the end point. It always seemed just out of reach, beckoning us to venture further into the unknown. The trail was like a magical labyrinth, guiding us through lush valleys, ancient rock formations, and crystal-clear streams.

There were moments when we marveled at the intricate details of the flora and fauna, amazed at how nature effortlessly painted the landscape with vibrant colors. We encountered majestic wildlife, like the graceful dance of an eagle in the sky or the gentle rustling of a buck in the distance.

As we continued to push forward, our spirits were lifted by the wondrous sights that greeted us at every turn. And despite the challenges that came our way – the steep inclines and rugged terrain – we persevered, driven by the immense beauty that surrounded us.

In the end, reaching the final destination was not the most important thing. It was the journey itself that left an indelible mark on my soul. The Baviaanskloof hike was a reminder that life is filled with hidden treasures, and sometimes you just have to keep going, even when the end seems elusive.

So, my friend, if you ever find yourself yearning for an adventure that will take your breath away, I wholeheartedly recommend embarking on this incredible hike. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed. The Baviaanskloof awaits, ready to unveil its secrets to those who dare to explore.

Before we embark on the trail, let’s capture a group photo. Teagan Cunniffe snaps a shot of all of us together.

If you want to experience the wilderness while riding a horse, check out this insightful article: “May the horse be with you.”

“It all begins with a single step, followed by another, and then another, like beats on a drum, creating a rhythmic melody of walking. Walking is the simplest and yet most profound act, intertwining with religion, philosophy, landscapes, urban planning, anatomy, symbolism, and even heartache.”
– Rebecca Solnit

Religion

The Baviaanskloof, or “the valley of baboons,” is famous for its abundance of these mischievous creatures. They seem to effortlessly navigate the rugged, orange rocks that define the landscape, blending in with the vibrant blue sky above. Surprisingly, we only catch a glimpse of one baboon during our four-day journey through this remarkable place. Perhaps even they have the wisdom to conserve their energy during the scorching midday hours of summer.

But unlike the baboons, we are determined to press on. It’s only day one, and it’s already 2pm. We find ourselves trudging up a rough and worn-out path, marked by deep ruts left by passing trucks. As we reach the top of each slope, another one appears in the distance, seemingly higher and longer than the last – an endless series of challenges. It quickly becomes evident who is truly prepared for this demanding endeavor, and who is not. Standing beside me is an Irishman in his seventies, who has conquered the entire Camino de Santiago pilgrimage. Yet, now he stands off to the side, wheezing and struggling to catch his breath. Meanwhile, my face turns a shade of red that rivals a ripe tomato, my head pulsates with pain, and the intense heat threatens to make me sick. I can’t help but question the sanity of the person who suggested this adventure in the first place.

As I trek alongside Linden Booth, he seems completely at ease, casually conversing as if he were a seasoned veteran at a posh sports event. Little did I know, it was his bright idea to purchase a farm in the farthest corner of the Baviaanskloof and subject us to this grueling expedition. Naturally, he thought it wise to embark on this death march at 2pm, when the sun’s relentless heat is at its peak. He assured me, comfortingly, that everything would be fine – he assured me, not realizing the dire state I’m currently in. I’m hunched over, barely coherent, desperately unscrewing the cap of my Stanley flask to take surreptitious sips of ice-cold mint water. It’s as if my life depends on it; at this point, any bed will do, even if it’s a deathbed. Although I’m not a religious person, I can’t help but contemplate the possibility that this moment could be a turning point. I hastily say a prayer, but then the realization hits me – I’ve already desecrated every inch of this godforsaken trail. I’ve condemned myself to a fiery eternity! Except, truth be told, it already feels as if I’m trudging through Satan’s personal playground.

An Interpretation of Suffering

And just like that, I find myself standing at the summit, surrounded by a breathtaking plateau. The gentle hills on either side guide the soft breeze that sweeps over this magnificent landscape. As I continue my journey, I stumble upon a picturesque clearing where four majestic horses stand gracefully, their ears perked up, and their eyes shining like liquid pools. They greet us with a nod and a sense of curious wonder. After offering them a juicy apple, we press on. It’s hard to believe that this serene piece of land was once a bustling farm. Now, it’s adorned with renosterbos and while the bird population may not be as abundant as in the vibrant Cedar Falls farm down below, where the morning is filled with the buzzing of bees and the sweet melodies of songbirds.

I stumbled upon a pond teeming with frogs. It amazed me how such a place had so much life in contrast to the nearby plateau. As I approached a crevice, there it was – a pond nestled within. Frogs of different colors occupied every corner. Some brown frogs leaped into the water, while black frogs perched on the pools’ edges. Others hid in crevices, peering at us with wide eyes. To my dismay, I spotted a snake coiling itself around one unfortunate frog. Its eye stared at us with sorrow, aware of its impending demise. It was gruesome, but like a spectacle, I couldn’t help but observe. This place is the Baviaans – a land of beauty, yet unforgiving.

The Baviaans holds a rich history, with deep philosophical and policy implications.

On this hike, there are 11 of us. But the most important person on this trail is Willem Maganie. He’s a small man with a squint and a smile. He only speaks Afrikaans. By Day Four, I can almost be as self-sufficient as my last name suggests. This trail means so much to Willem. It’s a dream come true for him, and many locals didn’t think it would ever be possible. He’s been working on it for years.

Guess what I found? A skull hidden in the rocks! But this is no ordinary skull – take a look at its feet, and you’ll see it’s wearing takkies. The rock art along this trail is truly special, but you’ll need a guide to show you the way.

The Baviaans is a fascinating place that was once home to the San people. They left their mark on the land by creating beautiful ochre figures on rocks. These figures serve as proof of their existence. Over time, the area attracted European hunters and later Afrikaans settlers who built farms and engaged in various industries. Many farming families have been here for generations, alongside the families of workers. There have been rumors of land claims, but as of now, none have been officially registered.

Life in this area has always been a challenge. The struggles faced by both sides have shaped the complex fabric of this place. Yet, when it came to the farming community, the life was even more arduous. Dreams were often stunted, limited by the circumstances that surrounded them. Willem, who was raised on a farm like this, understands this all too well.

It is difficult to imagine the conditions he grew up in. In 1995, his father earned a mere R60 a month, long before a minimum wage was established. Money was scarce, and there was no possibility of attending school. Willem, like many others his age, only has a Standard Four education.

The first thing I want to tell you is how amazing Camp One is. It’s like stepping into a magical rock amphitheater. It’s truly something special.

This incredible place is home to the Leopard Trail, a project by the Another Way Trust and the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency. The Another Way Trust, which is run by Linden and his wife, Jeanne, focuses on empowering the previously disadvantaged people in the Baviaanskloof area.

The Leopard Trail is still in its early stages, and the hike we went on was part of the trial phase. It hasn’t officially been launched by the Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism Agency yet. But the potential it holds for the area is huge.

Here’s how it works: we pay a fee for every hiker to the Parks Board, and the rest of the money goes to the Another Way Trust. This income is primarily used for job creation. But the best part is that any extra money goes towards social and economic development projects in the Baviaanskloof. So the Leopard Trail has the power to not only employ more people and create independent businesses, but also make a lasting impact on the community.

There are so many people who are really excited about this. I’ve met Jonathan Joema, who wants to become a guide and use his knowledge of medicinal plants to make a living. Ricardo George and Peres Maganie are also here with us, hoping to build a better life through this venture.

Landscape

We’re on day three, and Ricardo, who is kind of like Willem’s son-in-law, is leading us through the terrain. We’re actually the first group of regular folks testing out this trail. It’s not guided, unless you specifically ask for one. They say we have three big climbs to tackle, but then it gets easier. But I’ve learned not to trust any of these guys completely. Linden, in particular, is a master of motivation and he underplays the challenges ahead so that we’re forced to overcome them – there’s no turning back on this trail. Willem, Ricardo, Jonathan, and Peres seem to have some sort of superhuman genes. They move through this country like they were born to it, just like the rhebuck that call it home (we only spotted four though). They never seem to get thirsty or break a sweat. It’s really amazing. But walking is a way of life here out of necessity, and these guys walk with a purpose. They don’t have time for leisurely strolls up or down hills.

Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

Let me tell you a story. It’s about my father and his friend. They were going for a walk, but his friend walked so slowly that he actually fell asleep. He was so startled when he woke up, that he was scared by his own shadow. The meaning behind this story is quite clear. Sometimes, we try to hurry ourselves along, but there’s something stopping us. It’s the sheer beauty of the world around us. It’s hard to keep moving forward when there’s so much wonder happening all around us.

Wow, it’s really something up here in the mountains. The Baviaanskloof is like a whole different world, with its wild and rugged terrain. It’s a special place because it’s where different climatic zones come together, so we get rain in both the summer and winter. That’s why there are seven out of South Africa’s eight biomes right here. And let me tell you, the scenery is just breathtaking. Every step we take reveals a new and stunning landscape.

I purposely fall behind the group for a moment so I can fully immerse myself in this natural wonderland. As I pause, I’m serenaded by the melodies of the Cape sugarbirds and Malachite sunbirds. These beautiful creatures flit around the vibrant banks of proteas and honeybush, adding splashes of lime to the already mesmerizing blues and greens. It’s like a painting come to life.

Willem, our guide, shares my admiration for this particular spot. He tells me it’s his favorite part of the journey as well. As we meander through the area, he points out the diversity of life that thrives here. From the busy birds and bees to the hardworking ants, there’s so much activity happening all around us. And when I look up, I see the most incredible sight. Soft clouds and mist cling to the majestic peaks in shades of grey and orange, creating a mystical atmosphere.

As I embark on the first day of my journey, I find myself pleasantly surprised by an unexpected but delightful change in scenery. A photograph taken by Teagan Cunniffe captures this welcome detour.

However, as the clock strikes noon, the clouds disperse, revealing yet another valley filled with breathtaking beauty. In this new landscape, I am witness to the remarkable sight of four wild donkeys gracefully scaling the opposite mountain. Unfortunately, these magnificent creatures are destined to be hunted down in order to prevent them from interbreeding with the mountain zebras that are being reintroduced to the land. It is a bittersweet reminder of the delicate balance we must strike in preserving the diverse species that call this place home.

The colors that surround me on this walk are nothing short of awe-inspiring. The landscape is adorned with vibrant pink and white protea flowers, their petals seemingly painted by an artist’s brush. Towering cedar trees, their greenery luxuriously velvety, stand as testaments to the resilience of this unique region. Ochre rocks are colonized by lichens, their hues ranging from bold reds and oranges to pure white, creating a captivating tapestry of colors against nature’s canvas. As I venture further, I am captivated by the sandy tones and the russet rocks that seem to reach towards the heavens.

Using colors to distract me because, man, it’s scorching out here. And to top it off, we’re walking in the blazing midday sun. I’m feeling mega grumpy. We were expecting water at this spot, but there’s none to be found. My head is starting to throb once again. The riverbed is completely dry. Turns out we’re a day too early – that night, there’ll be an epic storm.

But here’s the silver lining, as Linden the motivator would say: if the rain had come down the previous night, it would’ve erased the most exciting thing about this whole journey for me. As we trek down this long stretch of dusty trail, we spot them: leopard footprints in the soft earth. My joy is almost overwhelming as I imagine that majestic, yellow-spotted cat sauntering along this very path just a few hours before, its graceful paws creating little puffs of powdery dust. It must have been a sight to behold in its kingdom of pinkish rocks glowing in the sunlight.

A Heartaching Encounter

Day four. Birdsong Valley gets its name from the enchanting chorus of bird calls that surround us as we hike through the towering cliffs. It feels like we’re immersed in a symphony of nature. I’m tired and achy from yesterday’s long trek – we covered anywhere from 18 to 22 kilometers, depending on who you ask. It definitely felt like the full 22, though. My calves were screaming by the end of the day. I was ready to throw in the towel and quit.

But this morning, something changed. As I took my first painful steps, my body seemed to revive itself. It was as if a wave of determination washed over me: “I can do this,” I thought.

Now, I’m walking alongside Linden. He assures me that there’s only one hill left to conquer, and then it’s smooth sailing.
‘Really? Which hill?’ I ask skeptically.
‘Can you see Patrick?’

Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

So there I was, hiking with my friends in Birdsong Valley. We had been going strong for two days, but then the Irishman, who claimed he had never been defeated by a hike before, had to take a break. He rejoined us later, and as we continued our journey, I noticed him pointing up at the sky. I followed his gaze, thinking he had spotted something interesting, perhaps a bird.

Little did I know that the adventure was far from over. Our path led us to a towering mass that loomed before us. I strained my eyes, desperately trying to see the top, but it seemed impossible. Frustration took hold of me, and I turned to Linden, accusing him of leading us astray. “You liar, it’s just a hill!” I exclaimed.

What I didn’t realize is that there was more to come. Each hill we conquered revealed another, and then another. My friends, undeterred, forged ahead like a relentless wave, defying gravity itself. I felt a surge of emotion welling up inside me, threatening to bring tears to my eyes. But I knew there was only one choice: I had to keep climbing, pushing myself onward and upward.

And here I am, standing at the pinnacle of the world, filled with awe at what I have accomplished. I can’t help but be amazed by the untouched beauty that surrounds me, while two majestic eagles glide through the air, silently observing the balance of life and death below. It’s hard to believe that I have embarked on a journey that tells a tale of this land, its people, the creatures that inhabit it, the heartbreak they have endured, and the hope and wisdom that emanates from every corner of its exquisite landscape. And now, as I turn my gaze and take one step, followed by another and yet another… I can’t help but wonder what lies ahead.

Let’s Plan Your Adventure

Photo by Teagan Cunniffe.

How to Get There

To reach George, you have a few options. You can fly with airlines like Mango, Kulula, SA Express, or Airlink. My choice was FlySafair, and I managed to get a return ticket from Cape Town for R1500. If flying isn’t your thing, you can drive from Cape Town to George using the N2. If you’re coming from Joburg, take the N1 to Bloemfontein, then the N6 to Colesberg, followed by the N9 to Port Elizabeth, and finally the N2 to George. Once you’re in George, take the R331 turn-off to Patensie. For specific route options, you can download maps and directions from gobaviaans.co.za/map-and-directions. Keep in mind that some routes are dirt roads, so be prepared. Don’t worry though, it’s still possible to navigate them with a regular sedan. The GPS coordinates for George are S 33°34.3128′, E 23°42.5733′.

About the Leopard Trail

I embarked on a slackpacking adventure along this trail, which proved to be quite a challenge. The hike required a certain level of fitness due to the numerous uphill and downhill sections. Despite my prior training, I found it quite difficult, especially because we were walking during the hottest hours of the day. However, this can be easily avoided by starting early and finding relief in a refreshing rock pool or the comforting shade.

Once we conquered the initial hill, Day One became relatively easy. Day Two presented us with a few steep climbs and descents. There was a recommended detour to admire a gathering of Baviaanskloof cedars (Widdringtonia schwarzii), a breathtaking sight for tree enthusiasts. If you find yourself struggling, I would recommend skipping this part.

Day Three is no joke. It’s the longest and toughest day of the hike, with three monstrous hills to conquer. Once you’ve conquered those hills, you should find water, but it’s always a good idea to double-check. Day Four is no walk in the park either. It’s a long day, and you’ll want to tackle it early. After pushing through the misleadingly named Fond Farewell, you’ll enter The Cauldron – a treacherous section that lives up to its name. And just when you think it’s smooth sailing, you’ll have to navigate an old track covered in loose stones. Believe me, it’s no picnic.

Knowing When to Go

Hey there! So, let’s talk about the weather in this awesome place called Summer. I gotta say, it gets really hot around here. During December, January, and February, the average temperature is a scorching 26°C! Can you believe that? But that’s not all, my friend. There are days when it can reach the high 30s! Whew! Talk about sizzling!

Now, if you’re more of an autumn or spring person, you’re in luck! Those seasons are just perfect here. The temperatures in the early 20s make it super pleasant. You can enjoy all the outdoor activities without breaking a sweat. Literally!

Winter is a whole different ball game. It’s perfect for those long hikes you’ve been craving. The average temperature drops to a cool 16°C during the day, but brace yourself: the nights can hit zero! Brrr! So make sure to pack all the warm gear you have to stay cozy.

Oh, and by the way, did you know that it rains around here? Yep, pretty much every month. So, it’s a good idea to bring some rain gear, just in case. You never know when a rain shower might sneak up on you. Better safe than sorry, right?

Here’s the scoop

When you hike here, you’ll have the opportunity to enjoy drinkable water and swim in many refreshing water holes. It’s essential to know the number and location of each water hole on each day’s hike, so you can stay hydrated and refill your water bottles. The campsites are absolutely breathtaking and have been meticulously set up. Each area is equally beautiful, so it’s up to you whether you prefer being close to the kitchen or further away.

Speaking of the kitchen, there’s a catering tent provided with all the necessary supplies, such as pots, pans, braai grids, and crockery. They even provide wood for you.

For your hike, make sure to bring your own tent, mattress, and sleeping bag. Keep in mind that there are currently only cold showers available. It’s also a self-catering experience, but don’t worry, your food will be transported along with your gear to each tented camp. It’s highly recommended to bring a first-aid kit because you won’t have any cell phone reception during the hike. Be aware that there are snakes in the area, so it’s a good idea to bring an identification book and information about what to do in case of a snake bite.

Take a Hike!

You absolutely must add the Cedar Falls Day Hike to your itinerary – it’s absolutely stunning. Trust me, making it your first stop is the way to go. The hike takes you along a scenic path that follows the Cedar Falls kloof, where you’ll come across countless cedar trees and the remnants of trees that were swept away in a flood back in 2008. There are several pools along the way where you can cool off with a refreshing swim, but the true highlight is the breathtaking final pool, where a magnificent waterfall plunges into its depths.

As you explore, you might even have the chance to spot two endangered species that call this area home: the red-finned minnow (watch out for their tickling exfoliation skills at one of the pools!) and the elusive ghost frogs (they certainly live up to their name). Admission costs R90 per person, but if you’re staying at Cedar Falls, you’re in luck – the hike is free for you! Just remember to book in advance and secure your spot.

Hey there! Have you ever been to Vero’s Restaurant & Craft Shop? It’s an amazing place that you absolutely have to visit. Trust me, it’s totally worth the trip! When I went there, I couldn’t resist buying a beautiful pottery platter. It’s now my favorite piece in my collection!

Delicious Food and Quirky Garden

At Vero’s, you get to taste the most delicious braaibroodjies made by Veronica and Katriena, who are actually Willem’s sisters. These mouthwatering treats can be enjoyed with either honey or cheese and tomato, so you have two delicious options to choose from. Yum!

What makes the experience even better is the lovely garden right in front of you. It’s such a unique and whimsical place, filled with colorful flowers. You can tell it was a passion project for their mother. It adds an extra touch of charm and beauty to the already amazing atmosphere.

How to Get There

If you’re wondering how to reach Vero’s, don’t worry, I’ve got you covered. It’s only a 30-minute drive into the Baviaanskloof from Nuwe Kloof Pass. Here are the GPS coordinates in case you’d like to use them: S 33°30.3380′, E 23°46.5551′. With this information, finding your way there will be a piece of cake!

Remember, if you have any questions or want to make a reservation, you can reach them at 0449231918. They’ll be more than happy to assist you!

Welcome to Cedar Falls, where I want to tell you about three amazing places to stay. These accommodations are part of Cedar Falls and each offers a unique experience. Let’s dive in!

The Cedar Farmhouse is where I stayed, and let me tell you, it’s absolutely lovely. This original house is full of charm, with a beautiful stoep that wraps around the whole building. The highlight of this farmhouse is the old-style reservoir swimming pool and the peaceful garden where you can relax and unwind. Gather at least four people and it’s only R290 per person. What a steal!

If you’re looking for a romantic getaway, I highly recommend Just for Two. This is the sweetest hideaway on the farm and happens to be the oldest building too. Imagine a cozy cottage just for you and your partner. And the best part? It’s only R900 for both of you. What a deal!

Another fantastic option is Cob House, a charming cottage made of adobe. Willem and his wife Marta take great care of this place, and you can feel the love in every corner. Whether you’re a couple or just traveling with a friend, this is a great spot. The price starts from R900 for two people.

So, those are the three incredible places to stay in Cedar Falls. Go ahead and book them at gobaviaans.co.za for an experience you won’t forget. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.

This story was first published in the April 2016 issue of Getaway magazine. Don’t miss out on great holiday ideas for 2016 – grab your copy today!