The Rainy Magic of Kruger National Park

It’s no secret that Kruger National Park can be a challenging place to visit. Sweltering heat, heavy downpours, and dense foliage that hides wildlife make it tricky to experience. Despite all that, I find myself falling in love with this place, especially during the rainy season.

My life is a unique blend of adventure and homey comforts. Six months a year, I travel across Africa, documenting my experiences through writing. The remaining months, I retreat to the tranquility of my Australian home. However, due to the timing of my book releases, I always find myself here during the wet summer, missing out on the dry winter.

But you know what? I don’t mind. Not even a bit.

Just as the schools resume after the Christmas break, something magical happens. It’s as if the entire park, both its animal inhabitants and human visitors, exhales a collective sigh of relief.

The impalas are looking great, all sleek and well-fed. And their little ones are growing up so fast! The trees around here are so lush and green, and the grass? It’s as high as an elephant’s eye! The pressure seems to be off for the bush and the plant-eating animals. But the predators, just like the few humans around here, are having a tough time. They have to work really hard to find what they need. It’s a tough life for them. Well, except for the crocs. They just hang around in the swollen rivers, waiting for fish to practically jump into their mouths. Talk about easy living!

Hey there! Spotting game in the summer can be a bit tricky with all the thick foliage. But hey, if you do manage to catch a glimpse, you’re in for a treat! The chances are high that you’ll see something up close and personal, right in front of you. I mean, we were lucky enough to have not one, but two leopard sightings in just three days. And guess what? They both sauntered right across the road, like they were putting on a show just for us. It was quick, but wow, so thrilling!

Now, let’s talk about the bird life during this time of year. It’s absolutely mind-blowing! Everywhere you look, there’s a tree with a European Roller perched on it. And trust me, you don’t have to be an expert to notice the incredible variety of birds of prey swooping around. Oh, and the Carmine Bee-eaters? They’re like the superheroes of the avian world, breaking up the sea of green with their vibrant colors.

And it’s so quiet. Like, really, really quiet. The kids are all back in school and it’s too hot for the grandparent migration, which won’t happen until it cools down later in the year.

When we arrived at Punda Maria in Kruger National Park, we saw two other groups of campers. We had come from Zimbabwe, driving through Pafuri. Tsendze, the camp in Kruger, was still the friendliest thanks to Rodger Hobyane, the super friendly manager. There were only about a dozen occupied stands at the Satara camping ground. Yeah, just a dozen.

The private lodges in the park were also quiet. Luckily, a friend invited us to stay at Hoyo Hoyo Tsonga Lodge in the central-western part of the park. There were only two other guests there. The manager, Julius, told us that 2010 had been a busy year for them, despite the world’s financial problems.

When Oscar, our guide, mentioned that he would face a challenge in spotting animals during our safari, his excitement only grew. On our afternoon drive, he skillfully led us to encounter seven rhinos, buffalos, a daring honey badger, a magnificent herd of elephants, and just as we were heading back, we stumbled upon a lioness silently stalking impalas. Oscar shared that she had three adorable cubs and was also struggling to find prey, so we left her to her hunting.

In our typical six-month adventure through Africa, Mrs. P and I spend around 22 weeks camping. The remaining time, we find ourselves in charming rondavels, wilderness camps, or the homes of our dear friends. After so much time in our humble nylon shelter, we yearn for the occasional indulgence and luxury.

I’m here to tell you about Hoyo Hoyo’s unique accommodations. Their beehive-type huts are a blend of tradition and modern comfort. Made mostly of thatch, with brick and mortar at the base, these huts offer a cool and cozy retreat. It’s like a touch of tradition mixed with the convenience of air conditioning. They fit right in with the surrounding bush, so it doesn’t feel like you’re staying in a hotel room.

What makes the stay even more memorable are the staff members, Julius and Given. They truly enjoy their work and have a mischievous side. They love surprising returning guests by leaping out from the shadows of the lounge area, wooden masks on their faces. It’s all in good fun, but be prepared for a scare!

After a refreshing night’s sleep on crisp linen, adorned with cute seed pod spelling out “good night,” we started our day with an English-style breakfast. It’s a nice touch of Europe in the heart of Africa. Then, we ventured back outside, ready to embrace the heat and rain.

Hey there! Welcome to Pretoriuskop, where the camp is eerily quiet and the impala are more numerous than the visitors. But let me tell you, they’re looking absolutely splendid. Just last night, they herded their adorable little babies together, creating a cozy circle no more than 15 meters away from us. And you know what? The moms stood guard around them, protecting their precious little ones.

As I’m typing this, I can see the impala peacefully grazing on the lush lawn. And guess what’s happening nearby? A woodland kingfisher is swooping down every now and then, engaging in some kind of kamikaze dive into the puddle that has formed under the camp tap. The sky is a bit cloudy today, which means it’s pleasantly cool. But boy, when the sun peeks out from behind those clouds, it feels like a warm hug. And when it goes back into hiding, the gentle embrace of the summer clouds is just as comforting.

Life slows down during this time of year. Setting an early alarm for a 4.30 am game drive doesn’t make much sense when the weather is likely to be drizzly. However, when the sun eventually comes out in the afternoon, as I’m sure it will, we’ll quickly prepare the cooler box, hop in the Landy, and make the most of the opportunity.

This time of year may not be suitable for everyone, but that’s what makes it special.

What time of year do you enjoy visiting the bush?

What time of year do you prefer for a visit to the bush?