Discovering the Hidden Wonders of the Orange River

When you think about South Africa, your mind might immediately conjure up images of vast savannahs teeming with wildlife or the iconic Table Mountain. But there is another natural gem lying beneath the surface of this diverse country: the Orange River.

As I stand on the banks of this majestic river, I am filled with awe and wonder at the hidden world that lies below. It is a world that few have had the privilege to explore, yet its beauty rivals that of any popular tourist destination. The Orange River is calling for you to unravel its mysteries.

Flowing for over 2,200 kilometers, the Orange River carves its way through the heart of Southern Africa. Its waters are teeming with life, providing a vital source of sustenance for both humans and wildlife alike. But it is not just the river itself that captivates; it is the hidden wonders that lie beneath the surface.

As you dive into the depths of the Orange River, a vibrant underwater kingdom reveals itself. Colorful fish dart among the rocks, their scales shimmering in the sunlight filtering through the water above. Strange and fascinating creatures, like the clawless otter and the endangered Cape clawless otter, call this underwater paradise home.

Exploring the Orange River is not only a feast for the eyes but also a treat for the taste buds. The river is renowned for its freshwater fish, such as yellowfish and catfish, which are prized by anglers and food enthusiasts alike. Imagine casting your line into the river’s current and reeling in a prized catch, ready to be turned into a delicious meal.

The Orange River is not just a natural wonder; it is also a playground for adventurers. It offers the perfect setting for a thrilling canoe or kayak trip, as you navigate the river’s twists and turns and battle the rushing rapids. From beginners to seasoned paddlers, the Orange River has something to offer everyone.

But the true magic of the Orange River lies in its ability to connect people with nature. As you float along its currents, you will feel a sense of peace and serenity wash over you. Your worries will fade away, replaced by a deep appreciation for the beauty of the natural world.

So, if you are seeking a unique and unforgettable experience, look no further than the Orange River. Dive into its depths, taste its bounty, and let its currents carry you away. Prepare to be amazed by the hidden wonders that lie below.

When I heard rumors about the Orange River having exceptionally clean water, my dive buddy Zak O’Leary and I wasted no time. We packed up our 4×4 trailer and headed north, eager to see it for ourselves. After a long journey, we arrived at Richtersveld Wilderness Camp, greeted by gloomy skies and a looming thunderstorm. Excitement burning in our chests, we rushed to the camp jetty to assess the visibility.

To our delight, the sandy river bed, two-and-a-half meters beneath the surface, was crystal clear. It was the perfect conditions for diving!

So, with our gear on and anticipation in the air, we waded into the water. The cool rush sent shivers down our spines. We submerged ourselves, diving into the mysterious depths of the Orange River.

As I descended into the underwater wonderland, I was overcome with awe. The clarity of the water allowed me to see every vibrant detail around me. Schools of fish darted through the currents, their colorful scales glistening in the sunlight. Sometimes, the occasional turtle would swim by, moving gracefully through the water.

I felt like an explorer in a hidden world, surrounded by a magnificent symphony of life. The riverbed was teeming with corals, sponges, and countless other marine organisms. The sheer beauty of it all took my breath away.

Hours passed like minutes as I explored the depths, capturing the beauty with my camera. It was a surreal experience, one that I will never forget. But as the day came to a close, Zak and I had to reluctantly make our way back to the surface.

As I emerged from the water, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of gratitude. Gratitude for the opportunity to witness such natural wonder and for the efforts made to protect and preserve the Orange River’s pristine beauty. It was a reminder of the importance of cherishing and safeguarding our natural world.

The Orange River had truly exceeded all expectations. Its crystal-clear waters had offered us a glimpse into a hidden paradise, a world of vibrant colors and breathtaking sights. From that day on, we became not only witnesses to its wonders but also its protectors, determined to ensure that future generations would have the same chance to experience its beauty.

So, fellow adventurers, if you ever find yourself in the vicinity of the Orange River, don’t miss the opportunity to dive into its enchanting depths. You won’t be disappointed.

Words & photographs by Jean Tresfon

As I prepared myself to dive from the jetty at Richtersveld Wilderness Camp, I couldn’t help but feel a mix of excitement and curiosity. It was a new adventure waiting for me beneath the water’s surface.

Within just thirty minutes, my companions and I had settled in and were ready to explore. We knew that in order to make the most of the next two days, we had to make some preparations. First, we needed to figure out the best camera settings to capture the beauty of the underwater world. Then, we had to fine-tune our dive gear and learn how to maintain perfect buoyancy to avoid stirring up the silt and ruining the visibility. Lastly, understanding the behavior of the fish would allow us to get closer to them without disturbing their natural habitat.

The rest of the afternoon was spent indulging in the simple joys of the water. We played under the jetty, letting the gentle currents carry us through the grassy river beds and into the faster flowing water. It was a day filled with laughter, exploration, and a renewed sense of wonder.

As I hide in the river grass, I can’t help but feel a thrill of excitement. The water temperature is a perfect tropical 27°C, and I don’t even need a wetsuit. I’m on a mission to get up close and personal with some shy fish species, and I’m learning the art of stalking them.

As I navigate the underwater world, I’m amazed at the diversity of fish species I encounter. There are so many more than I expected. I spot schools of banded tilapia, a few Mozambique tilapia, and an abundance of Orange River mudfish. I even catch sight of a smallmouth yellowfish and an African sharptooth catfish. These creatures, however, are not easily approachable. Most of them swim away as soon as they see me.

I soon discover that the grassy beds serve as safe havens for juvenile fish. They seek refuge in the thick weeds, vanishing at the slightest hint of danger. It’s a clever defense mechanism that keeps them out of harm’s way. After spending a couple of hours in the water, I make my way back to the jetty. I feel more prepared and equipped than ever to continue my mission.

When I think about snorkeling, I can’t help but feel a sense of wonder. The idea of exploring the underwater world, witnessing the beauty and tranquility of marine life firsthand, is truly mesmerizing. And the best part is, you don’t need a lot of heavy equipment like scuba gear to experience it.

Imagine being in the water, surrounded by the gentle flow of a river. As I dipped my face beneath the surface, I was instantly transported to another world. Fish glided gracefully past me, their vibrant colors illuminating the water like living rainbows. I couldn’t help but feel a deep connection to nature in that moment.

Snorkeling allows you to get up close and personal with marine life in a way that feels natural and effortless. It’s like being a part of their world, if only for a little while. And the best part is, you don’t need any special skills or training to enjoy the experience.

One of the things I love most about snorkeling is its simplicity. All you need is a mask, a snorkel, and a pair of fins. With these basic tools, you can explore the underwater world with ease. No bulky tanks, no complicated gear adjustments – just you and the water.

Another great thing about snorkeling is its versatility. You can do it in a variety of locations, from calm, crystal-clear lagoons to vibrant, bustling coral reefs. Whether you’re on vacation or just exploring a local river, there’s no shortage of places to discover.

Not only is snorkeling a great way to connect with nature, but it’s also fantastic exercise. As you swim through the water, your body works every muscle, providing an excellent cardiovascular workout. It’s a fun and enjoyable way to stay active and maintain a healthy lifestyle.

So, if you’re looking for a unique and unforgettable experience, I highly recommend giving snorkeling a try. It’s a chance to immerse yourself in the wonders of the underwater world and discover a sense of peace and tranquility you’ve never felt before. Trust me, once you take that first dive, you’ll never look at the ocean the same way again.

The next day, we loaded our Prado with cylinders and cameras and drove about 12 kilometers downriver to some rapids near Hammerkop. The journey was bumpy and lasted about an hour, but the incredible landscape made it worth it. Finally, we arrived at our chosen spot, just below a big rapid. We believed that the fast-moving, oxygenated water would attract a lot of fish.

As I looked into the water, I was amazed by what I saw. Two huge catfish, each over a meter long, swam by to take a closer look at me. Then, a gigantic carp, weighing more than 15 kilograms, swiftly passed by. But the most astonishing sight was yet to come.

I noticed a small fish hiding against the river bank. It was later identified as a southern mouthbrooder. The little fish was surrounded by a cloud of tiny fry, its babies. When I got too close, the fish opened its mouth wide and started swallowing its babies. I couldn’t believe my eyes!

I couldn’t believe my eyes as I watched her devour every last one of them. She closed her mouth, spread her pectoral fins, and raised her dorsal fin, almost as if she was bristling at me. I kicked myself for not having my camera ready to capture this incredible sight.

But just a few minutes later, I spotted another one of these captivating fish. This time, she had her fry swimming close by. I quickly lifted my camera and pressed the shutter button, capturing the moment just as she scooped up all the little ones into her mouth.

Eventually, we had to leave the water and face the scorching 46-degree midday heat. As we made our way back to camp, my mind was still buzzing with amazement at the wonders of nature.

The Orange River mudfish has a special mouth that’s designed for sucking algae off of rocks. Check out this cool picture of one in action:

Now let me tell you about an incredible adventure I had. It was the last part of our day, and we decided to explore a rock jetty that sticks out into the water. We loaded up our kayaks with all our gear and headed out for what would turn out to be the most amazing dive of the trip.

When we arrived, we secured the kayaks, put on our scuba gear, and got into the water. Right away, we could tell that this spot was unlike any we had seen before. The rocky shelf dropped off suddenly, revealing a deep and mysterious darkness below.

When I deflated my BCD (Buoyancy Control Device), I began to descend slowly into the depths, surrounded by total darkness. It felt eerie, almost like diving into the realm of the mysterious Orange River monster. After a moment, the ocean floor became visible, eight meters below us, revealing a massive wall of rock ahead. The water was so dimly lit that only our small dive lights illuminated a small part of the wall.

The image above shows a female southern mouthbrooder fish protecting her young by taking them into her mouth when she senses danger. It was taken by photographer Jean Tresfon.

During one of my recent underwater adventures, something unexpected happened that gave me quite a fright. As I was exploring the underwater world, a large catfish suddenly raced past me, clearly disturbed by my presence. My friend Zak quickly pointed to a wall nearby, and there we discovered a giant sponge, measuring about a meter in diameter. Intrigued, we continued our exploration, carefully examining every nook and cranny. To our surprise, we stumbled upon several large catfish resting on rocky ledges in the darkness. It was an incredible sight.

But that wasn’t the only strange thing we encountered that day. As we made our way back to the camp in our paddles, we discovered something truly unusual lying at the sandy bottom—a car roof! It was our first experience of a ‘wreck dive’ in the Orange River. The day had been filled with so many sensory experiences that my mind was overwhelmed as we watched the sun slowly set on the horizon.

I woke up on the second day and decided to go on another adventure at the rapids near Hammerkop. This time, I hopped into a kayak and paddled my way down the river for 12 kilometers. Meanwhile, Zak drove his 4×4 track to meet me there. The visibility in the rapids wasn’t as good as before, probably because of the rain we had when we arrived.

After a few hours, we decided to explore an island in the middle of the river, about seven kilometers upstream. The walls of the island were made of rocks and had drop-offs that went down to four meters. As we moved closer to the river banks, we saw a lot of fish activity in the reed beds. There were so many mudfish and tilapia in their colorful breeding looks. It was an incredible sight.

Eventually, it was time to head back to camp. But of course, we couldn’t resist getting back in the water. We spent the rest of the afternoon diving in front of the jetty and having a blast.

As I walked down to the jetty early in the morning on our last day, I couldn’t help but notice how the temperature had dropped almost 20 degrees. It was a stark contrast to the warm days we had been enjoying. But what really caught my attention was the water. The visibility had taken a hit and it didn’t look promising for diving anymore.

It was a bit disappointing, to say the least. We had spent the past two days exploring one of the most unique dive sites I had ever encountered. The highlight of the river was undoubtedly the sharptooth catfish – the apex predator, as they say. Some of these incredible creatures grew to almost two meters in length. It was truly a sight to behold.

Now, as we packed up our gear and prepared to head back to Cape Town, I couldn’t help but reflect on our adventure. It was a world unlike anything I had ever experienced. The river had opened up a whole new realm for us, if only for a short time.

How to Get There

If you’re planning a trip to the Richtersveld Wilderness Camp, here’s how to get there. The camp is located about 685 kilometers north of Cape Town on the N7 highway. If you’re coming from Johannesburg, it’s about 1,200 kilometers away via the N14 route.

When driving from Cape Town, you’ll need to take the N7 highway and go north. As you approach Vioolsdrif, which is right before the Namibian border post, you’ll see a turnoff to Kotzeshoop. Take that turnoff and continue on the gravel road for approximately 22 kilometers. This will lead you straight to the Richtersveld Wilderness Camp.

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