Exploring the West Coast’s Winter Bounty
This winter, I had the privilege of embarking on a remarkable journey through the Western Cape, where nature’s flavors come alive. With the scent of fynbos wafting through the air, my family and I eagerly hopped into our cozy camper van, ready to explore the bountiful offerings of the West Coast.
As we ventured forth, marveling at the beautiful landscapes, one thing became clear – this region is a culinary treasure trove. From the lush forests to the sun-kissed shores, we found an abundance of edible wonders at every turn.
One chilly morning in Cape Town, my husband Tom and I picked up our home-on-wheels from SA Roadtrippers. It was a fancy camper van with all the bells and whistles that would make our family road trip a breeze. No more setting up and packing up tents for us! We had some loose plans of where to go and what to do, but our main goal was to gather wild ingredients from the landscapes we passed and find the best coffee spots (because, let’s be honest, you can’t forage for coffee).
When I got home with the van, Ruby and Tai, who are six and eleven years old, respectively, couldn’t contain their excitement. They immediately started exploring every corner of the van, arguing over who would get to sleep in the double bed in the main cabin, which they could access through a tiny ladder. It was a first for our family to have the kids already strapped in and waiting at the dinette table before we were even ready to leave.
We hit the road and headed down the R27 to Langebaan. As we slowly made our way through the suburban areas, we stumbled upon a delightful surprise. We found succulent edible greens growing wild along the roadside and in vacant lots. There were wild spinach, mallow leaves, and even young veldkool buds (a type of herbaceous shrub called Trachyandra cilliata) sprawling all around us. We couldn’t resist plucking some of these greens to make a salad. It was like our very own impromptu grocery shopping trip!
After our exciting find, we decided to stop and have a picnic at Shark Bay. The kids wasted no time and immediately jumped into the lagoon, splashing around in the water. Meanwhile, my partner and I soaked up the serene atmosphere of a windless winter day while enjoying the soft sand beneath our feet. It was a truly blissful moment.
I pulled my fishing skiff onto the expansive shore at Paternoster, where kreef, the village’s prized rock lobster, was once plentiful. Unfortunately, this delicacy is no longer as abundant as it used to be.
For our first night, we stayed at Tietiesbaai in the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve near Paternoster. There are several campsites scattered along the coves, but only one bathroom block at the main camp area. Thankfully, we had our own private bathroom on board, so we decided to set up camp right next to the beach. Since we arrived late and didn’t have to hassle with pitching a tent, we settled for an easy meal of seaweed broth couscous, which we had prepared at home the night before, along with a salad and some delicious cheesy jaffles cooked over the fire.
When I woke up, the sound of the waves instantly put me in a good mood. The kids were excited to go exploring, looking for fishing spots and pretty shells. Meanwhile, my partner and I enjoyed some coffee and rusks on the beach, while discussing our plans for cooking flatbreads over the fire.
Unfortunately, we had forgotten to bring flour with us, which turned out to be a blessing in disguise. It gave us the perfect excuse to visit the charming village of Paternoster. The village was filled with picturesque white-washed houses and old fishing boats adorned with succulents. As we walked along the main road, we noticed several restaurants that looked promising.
One store that caught our eye was called Oep ver Koep. It was a treasure trove of various items. We ended up leaving with brown-paper packets filled with dried hereboontjie beans, buttermilk rusks, red wine, ginger biscuits, a cozy hand-knitted beanie, stoneground flour, and of course, Chappies bubble gum, which is a must-have for any South African school holiday.
When I look back on our camping trip, I remember the delicious flatbread we made using wild greens like dune spinach, dried nori seaweed, and sorrel flowers. It was the perfect accompaniment to our brunch of fire-cooked egg shakshuka on the beach. We spent the rest of the day doing things we love – reading, drawing, taking naps, and sipping tea. It was the ideal way to relax and enjoy ourselves on vacation.
The next day, we decided to explore the area on bikes and on foot. Each cove we came across had its own unique charm. Some had hidden paths that led to hills covered in beautiful succulent plants, while others had rock pools filled with colorful seaweeds. We even found some stunning winter flowers and peaceful, shell-covered beaches. The scenery was so breathtaking that we couldn’t resist spending an extra night in a different campsite just to watch the sunset.
As I look at the photo of the Gray family on the beach, I can’t help but feel a sense of adventure and curiosity. They were exploring the rocky intertidal zone at low tide, discovering all the wonders it had to offer. It’s moments like these that make me appreciate the beauty of nature and the joy it brings to our lives.
When I woke up in the morning, I saw that the weather had changed overnight. The sky was grey and it matched the color of the sea outside. It looked so peaceful and cozy inside the van with the curtains drawn.
We had heard about a really good coffee shop in Paternoster, so we decided to check it out. It was called Junk & Disorderly and it was located in an old donkey shed. The place had been renovated and now it was full of interesting things to look at and delicious baked goods to try. We brought our own cups from the van and ordered cappuccinos to take away.
After that, we got back on the road and headed towards Velddrif. We wanted to visit a place called Bokkom Laan, which was supposed to be a place where time stood still. We were hoping to buy some fish at the fish shops there, but unfortunately, they were all closed because the river had brought down fresh water after the rains. This made the water muddy and not good for fishing. Even though we couldn’t buy any fish, Bokkom Laan was still a charming place to visit. It felt like we had stepped back in time.
We found a coffee shop in Bokkom Laan called Columbine Co. We bought some bokkoms, which are whole salted and dried mullet fish. We also bought coffee and kombucha. While we were there, we had some interesting conversations with the locals. The owner of the coffee shop, Rudolf Dante, told us about the history of the area and even gave us some surfing tips. The coffee shop used to be his grandfather’s bokkomhuis, where they would clean, salt, hang, and sell the fish. The building was made from clay, crushed shells, and sand. It was one of the first buildings in Bokkom Laan. We also met a friendly cat named Minkels and we saw a really cool semi-submarine lifeboat called John Wayne and UB40, which reminded us of something out of a Tintin book.
When you visit Junk & Disorderly in Paternoster, you’ll find an assortment of delightful goodies and valuable items. Excitement fills the air as you explore what this farmstall has to offer.
Leaving behind that quirky lane, I wandered over to Lambert’s Bay, where I stopped at Die Skooltjie Padstal to get some wood and try their unique “Makataan Snot en Trane” jam and sheep fat. Along the coastal dirt road south of Lambert’s Bay, I stumbled upon Malkoppan Campsite, which was a perfect spot for everyone in my family. It offered great surf spots for my husband, a paradise for our kids who loved biking, and the promise of a coastal forage the next morning for me. We enjoyed a comforting dinner of ocean-soaked hereboontjies, veldkool, and bokkom stew with sheep’s fat potatoes cooked over the coals. The distant rumbling of the Sishen-Saldanha train and the sound of the sea lulled us to sleep.
The next morning, we headed to the beach to collect Mediterranean mussels, limpets, periwinkles, kelp, and various types of seaweed. On our way back to camp, we gathered more wild greens to add to our coastal catch. For lunch, we savored a nourishing seaweed broth with wontons filled with limpets and marinated wild greens. Once we were replenished, we packed up and continued our journey.
Our next destination was Elands Bay, a charming fishing village known for its long white beach, an old crayfish factory, stunning flora, and a surf point with peeling left-breaking waves. As we arrived at the campsite right by the beach, rain poured down. We sought comfort in our van until the skies cleared. Then, we built a fire and cooked the mussels we had collected at Lambert’s using two different methods: some in a pan and others wrapped in kelp bulbs. We enjoyed the feast around the fire, savoring every bite of the mussels alongside hunks of fresh bread and butter and ice-cold beers.
When it comes to cooking, I love experimenting with unique and foraged ingredients. One of my favorite dishes to make is stuffed wonton parcels filled with diced limpet and marinated greens. It’s a simple yet flavorful combination that really elevates the taste.
Another dish I enjoy preparing is flatbread dough with dune spinach, seaweed, and sorrel flowers. The different flavors and textures of these ingredients create a burst of freshness in every bite.
For a comforting and nourishing soup, I like to make a seaweed broth with whole garlic cloves, foraged mussels, and veldkool buds. The broth is full of umami flavors and the combination of the seafood and foraged greens adds a unique touch.
If you’re a fan of wontons, then you’ll love the seaweed broth with limpet and wild greens wontons. The wontons are filled with tender limpet and a mixture of flavorful wild greens, making it a delicious and satisfying dish.
With these dishes in mind, you have the opportunity to discover a whole new world of flavors and ingredients. By using foraged and unique components, you can create dishes that are not only delicious but also environmentally friendly. So why not step out of your comfort zone and try something new?
What a morning! The air was brisk and the sky a dazzling blue, untouched by even the slightest breeze. It was the perfect day for a beach-inspired breakfast, so I decided to whip up some delectable waffles. But I wanted to add a twist, so I infused the butter with a piece of kelp. Slowly simmering the kelp and butter on low heat transformed them into a vibrant green concoction that carried the salty scent of the ocean. It’s an easy trick that adds a savory kick to any dish, thanks to the natural glutamate found in seaweed.
After breakfast, we took a leisurely stroll along the sandy shores towards the rocky intertidal pools. They were just a stone’s throw away from the crashing waves. Our mission? Gathering mussels, periwinkles, and seaweed for our lunchtime feast.
Last night, I was mesmerized by the most stunning sunset. The sky was painted in brilliant shades of orange, creating a breathtaking view over the sea. The sandy beach sparkled under the moon’s gentle glow. The waves were perfect for surfing, and the tide pools were brimming with treasures waiting to be discovered. Everywhere I looked, there were vibrant greens growing, adding a touch of wild beauty to the landscape. But my eyes were also drawn upward, to the everchanging masterpiece unfolding in the sky each morning and evening. The colors danced and shifted, creating an art display that was both mesmerizing and awe-inspiring. The West Coast truly is a place of natural wonder, and I can’t wait to return. If you’re interested in foraging for wild treats, you can find Roushanna’s recipes online at getaway.co.za.
Here’s a glimpse of Roushanna in action, harvesting limpets.
When I go foraging in the rock pools, my basket is filled with a variety of delicious finds. I gather kelp, sea lettuce, wild nori, tongue weed, mussels, limpets, and periwinkles, creating a feast from the ocean’s bounty.
If you’re considering foraging, here are some things you need to know:
1. Before collecting shellfish and seaweeds, make sure to obtain a mollusc permit. You can get one for R96 at any post office.
2. Winter is the ideal time to forage for wild greens, while summer is perfect for collecting seaweeds.
3. It is crucial to always forage in a legal, responsible, and sustainable manner.
4. Remember, it is against the law to gather plants from parks, reserves, private land, or to collect seaweed from marine protected areas.
5. Before consuming any plants or seaweed, ensure you can positively identify them – there are numerous poisonous plants out there.
6. Take only what you need – a few leaves from each plant and a small portion of seaweed.
7. Avoid picking roots or any plants that are not abundant in the area.
8. Stay away from polluted land or water sources, as well as busy highways, when foraging.
Travelling in a camper van allows you to settle in remote spots and wake up to breathtaking views like the ones in Cape Columbine Nature Reserve.
Directory
- First up, we have Muisbosskerm, a unique beachside eatery near Lambert’s Bay. Imagine indulging in a mouthwatering feast of fresh seafood, homemade bread, and traditional West Coast dishes like hotnotskool stew. You won’t want to miss out on the delectable waterblommetjiebredie and Hanepoot korrelkonfyt either. Prices start at R320 per person for adults and R80 for children. Advance booking is a must, as it’s not open every day. Call 027 432 1017 to reserve your spot.
- If you’re looking for a place to park your caravan right by the beach, check out Elands Bay Municipal Caravan Park. While shade is limited, you’ll have direct access to the sandy shores. Prices for stands start at R165, accommodating up to six people. Feel free to reach out to them at 022 972 1736/45. For more information, visit westerncape.gov.za.
- For a unique experience, join one of Roushanna’s workshops in Cape Town and learn about coastal or fynbos foraging. It’s an opportunity to connect with nature and discover the abundance of edible delights that surround us. The workshops cost R650 for adults and R350 for kids. To book your spot, head over to veldandsea.com.
Shark Bay is a beautiful beach cove located on the southern side of Langebaan. Langebaan is a popular holiday town that offers various options for accommodation, supermarkets, and restaurants. The beach is situated next to the West Coast National Park, providing a scenic backdrop for your visit. Admission to the park is R59 per adult and R30 per child, and you can find more information on the sanparks.org website.
If you’re a nature enthusiast, you should check out the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve. The reserve is open for day visitors, and the entrance fee is R25 per person. For a camping experience, you can stay at the Tietiesbaai Municipal Campsite, which offers camping options starting from R115 per person. However, it’s important to note that crime can be an issue in the area, so it’s essential to stay vigilant during your stay. You can contact the reserve at 022 752 2718, or visit the saldanhabay.co.za website for more details.
In Paternoster, you can visit Oep ve Koep, a delightful tea garden and bistro. They also offer a selection of farmstall treats, gifts, and preserves. To satisfy your appetite, head over to Junk & Disorderly, a cozy coffee shop, restaurant, and deli. Here, you can indulge in delicious food and discover a variety of cheeses and charcuterie. For more information about Oep ve Koep, you can reach them at 022 752 2105, and for Junk & Disorderly, contact 082 876 2711.
These places offer unique experiences and are worth exploring if you’re in the area. From breathtaking beaches to nature reserves and delightful eateries, there’s something for everyone. Enjoy your adventure and make lasting memories!
I’m excited to introduce you to some amazing spots in Paternoster and Velddrif. First up is Wolfgat, the restaurant owned by renowned chef Kobus van der Merwe. At Wolfgat, you can embark on a culinary adventure and savor their wildfood fine-dining experience. For just R850 per person, you can enjoy a seven-course tasting menu that will tantalize your taste buds. If you’re not one for foraging yourself, this is the perfect place for you. Learn more at wolfgat.co.za.
Next, we have Columbine Co, a charming heritage building in Velddrif. What makes this place special is not only their great coffee but also their selection of bokkoms. If you’re looking for a cozy spot to enjoy a cup of joe and indulge in some local flavors, Columbine Co is the place to be. Give them a call at 061 771 7518 to plan your visit.
If you’re in the mood for some shopping, head over to Die Skooltjie Padstal in Velddrif. They have a wide variety of preserves for you to choose from. Whether you’re looking for jams, pickles, or sauces, Die Skooltjie Padstal is sure to have something that tickles your fancy. You can reach them at 084 549 3166.
Lastly, if you’re an outdoorsy person, Malkoppan Campsite is the perfect destination for you. Located close to the beach, this campsite offers stands for groups of different sizes. Starting from R375 for a stand that accommodates five people and going up to R750 for a double stand that can host up to ten people, there’s an option for everyone. Call 083 370 0400 or visit muisbosskerm.co.za to book your spot.
These are just a few of the incredible places to explore in Paternoster and Velddrif. I hope you have a wonderful time discovering all the treasures these towns have to offer. Enjoy!
Hey there! I’ve got some fantastic recommendations for you. Let’s dive in and discover the best spots for an unforgettable adventure.
And here’s the icing on the cake – our En-Suite Home! This fully-equipped camper van is perfect for a party of six. It’s a fantastic way to explore the beautiful landscapes, and it’s available for R1,265 per day from SA Roadtrippers. They also offer 4×4 safari campers, motorhomes, and RVs for rent, with branches in Cape Town, Joburg, and Windhoek. Check out saroadtrippers.co.za for more details.
