Let’s Dive into the Tugela

Hey there! Today, I want to talk to you about the mighty Tugela River. This incredible natural wonder is located in the majestic country of South Africa. It’s time to explore its beauty and discover what makes it so special.

When I first heard about the Tugela River, I was filled with curiosity. What makes this river stand out from the rest? Well, let me tell you, there are many fascinating aspects to consider.

First of all, the Tugela River is one of the longest rivers in South Africa, stretching over 500 kilometers. Can you imagine that? It flows through the most breathtaking landscapes, including the Drakensberg Mountains and the famous Tugela Falls. Nature truly shows off its wonders here.

One of the key features of the Tugela River is its powerful rapids. These fast-flowing sections of the river create an exhilarating experience for adrenaline junkies and thrill-seekers. Rafting down this river is no walk in the park! You’ll need courage and strength to navigate through the swirling waters.

But the Tugela River isn’t only for the adventurous souls. It also provides sustenance and life to the people and wildlife of South Africa. The river serves as a vital water source for irrigation and agriculture, helping to support local communities in the region.

And let’s not forget about the incredible biodiversity that thrives along the banks of the Tugela River. The surrounding area is home to a wide array of flora and fauna. From colorful birds to unique plant species, this ecosystem is a treasure trove of natural beauty.

So, if you’re looking for a nature-filled adventure, the Tugela River is the place to be. Whether you’re seeking excitement on the rapids or simply want to witness the stunning landscapes, this river offers something for everyone.

Now, I must warn you; the Tugela River can be a force to be reckoned with. It demands respect and caution. If you decide to explore its waters, make sure to have the necessary skills and experience. Safety should always be your top priority.

Now that you understand the significance of the Tugela River, I hope you feel inspired to visit it someday. Immerse yourself in the beauty of South Africa’s natural wonders and experience the magic of the Tugela River firsthand. It’s an adventure you’ll never forget!

Have you ever wondered about the power of words? I mean, seriously, they have such incredible influence over our lives. They can stir up emotions, change our perspectives, and even inspire us to take action. It’s mind-blowing when you really think about it.

Now, let’s think about this in the context of writing. As a writer, your words have the power to captivate your readers, to transport them to different worlds, and to make them feel things they never thought possible. It’s pretty amazing, isn’t it?

But here’s the thing: words are like a double-edged sword. They can elevate a piece of writing to new heights or completely diminish its impact. So, how can you make sure your words have the desired effect?

Well, it all comes down to understanding your audience. Who are you writing for? What do they care about? What are their hopes and dreams? When you take the time to really think about these questions, you can tailor your words to resonate with your readers.

It’s also important to remember that words have different meanings for different people. What may be crystal clear to you might be completely confusing to someone else. So, it’s crucial to choose your words carefully and make sure they convey your intended message.

Another key factor to consider is the structure of your writing. The way you arrange your words can make all the difference. Short, punchy sentences can add excitement and keep your readers engaged. Longer, more descriptive sentences can create a sense of imagery and draw your readers in. So, mix it up, and don’t be afraid to experiment to find your unique voice.

And if you’re struggling to find the right words, remember that writing is a journey. It takes time and practice to develop your skills. So, be patient with yourself and keep pushing forward. You have the power to create something incredible.

I discovered the origin of the Tugela River on the slopes of Mont-aux-Sources during a foggy day. It took me three hours of hiking from the Sentinel car park, using the chain ladders, to reach the top of the Amphitheatre in the Drakensberg. It was there that I witnessed a small stream bubbling up from the ground.

The valley leading to the source was covered in wild grass, gently sloping down. The air carried the scent of damp earth and animal droppings. The thick clouds absorbed all sound, leaving me with only the soft jingle of a goat bell coming from a ridge above me.

Taking a seat, I relished in the tranquility of the moment, feeling the excitement building up inside me as I contemplated the journey that lay ahead, all the way to the Indian Ocean.

As I walked along the stream in the valley, I suddenly encountered a group of donkeys. As I got closer, a fierce dog that was so large I mistook it for one of the donkeys stood up and started barking. The noise caught the attention of another dog on the opposite side of the valley. I soon realized that I was stuck between the two barking dogs.

A solitary stallion emerged through the haze, just moments before the chaotic encounter I had with an unhinged dog. This image, captured by Matthew Sterne, depicts the sudden appearance of the stallion.

Like a guardian of the donkeys, the stallion swiftly charged towards me, effortlessly leaping across the stream and covering a vast distance in an instant. With a forceful skid, it came to a halt just a meter away, flinging droplets of saliva and mud in my direction. Two herdsmen, donned in gumboots, blankets, and balaclavas, emerged from the mist to control the dog and ensure my safety.

It was an eventful and exhilarating way to begin.

Some background information about the Tugela

The Tugela River, serving as the boundary between Zululand and Natal, was historically regarded as a frontier that held the allure of wealth, wildlife, adventure, and prosperity.

The Tugela River has a rich history. It has witnessed famous battles and the imposition of ultimatums along its banks. Archaeologists have discovered evidence of trade between the people living along the Tugela and the Arab world a thousand years ago. The region is also steeped in legends of cannibals, hermits, and a mysterious mountain that supposedly swallows people, their cries echoing in its hidden caves.

Locals have given the Tugela River the name “The Startling One” in Zulu, because of its tendency to rise rapidly and unexpectedly, posing a danger to those living nearby. On certain days, it offers some of the most exhilarating white-water rafting in South Africa, according to those who know the river well. There’s no denying it – the Tugela is a truly untamed and wild river.

Exploring the Source of the River

When I gazed upon the majestic Drakensberg’s Amphitheatre, my eyes fixated on the mysterious gorge where the powerful Tugela River originates. This awe-inspiring river cascades down a staggering 984 meters into the Royal Natal National Park. It’s a sight that leaves you breathless.

As I followed the river’s curving path, it led me to the edge of the Amphitheatre, granting me access to the top of the world’s second-highest waterfall, the Tugela Falls. Standing at an impressive 948 meters, it towers over Victoria Falls by almost nine times. However, unlike Victoria Falls, the Tugela Falls descends in five separate stages. It’s a spectacle of nature that only Angel Falls in Venezuela surpasses in height, reaching 31 meters higher.

I couldn’t resist leaning forward to get a closer look, but the waterfall vanished into a thick blanket of clouds. It was as if it dropped into an entirely different realm, far below my line of sight. From this magnificent vantage point, the Tugela River continues on its journey, carving a path through the Midlands before swelling in Zululand. Finally, after traveling a vast distance of 500 kilometers, it meets the ocean in the east.

When I set out to explore the waterfall’s base in the Royal Natal National Park the next day, the mist had dissipated. As I made my way to the end of the well-known Tugela Gorge Hike, the Amphitheatre glistened in a shimmery haze that reminded me of the vastness of the ocean.

Hey there! Let’s talk about the Tugela Gorge Hike, a cool adventure that will take you half a day and lead you to the base of the impressive Berg’s Amphitheatre. Image by Matthew Sterne

But wait, there’s more! The base of the falls is even further ahead.

As I continued the hike, I decided to leave my fellow hikers resting in the shade. Determined, I pressed on. The trail became less obvious, but luckily, cairns pointed me in the right direction. I had to jump from rock to rock as I followed the river, disturbing dassies (little furry critters) along the way.

The trees grew taller, and the path grew steeper.

Then, suddenly, I caught a glimpse of a long, narrow stream of water. I figured it must be one of the Tugela River’s many tributaries. It was the closest I could get to see the main falls, which are usually hidden from below unless it has poured with rain.

Exploring the river

When I left Royal Natal, I noticed that the once clear waters of the Tugela River had turned murky in the Woodstock Dam. As the river flows through the farmlands near Bergville, it eventually reaches Spioenkop Dam, which is just an hour’s drive away.

Spioenkop Dam is not only a beautiful sight but also a home for a variety of wildlife. The adjacent nature reserve is inhabited by majestic giraffes and striking zebras, creating a picturesque scene that attracts nature enthusiasts and photographers alike. Additionally, fishermen are drawn to the dam’s shores, hoping to catch a big one.

One such fisherman is Ram Pandoy, who traveled all the way from Ladysmith for a day of fishing. Ram reminisced about the good old days when the fish in Spioenkop Dam were larger and more plentiful. It’s a sentiment often shared by experienced anglers who yearn for the excitement of landing a big catch.

“We also give Colenso a try,” Ram mentioned, “but it can be a bit nerve-wracking because of the presence of crocodiles. They’re known to prey on sheep, you know!”

As I gazed beyond the dam, I was treated to a magnificent view of Spioenkop. This historic site holds the memories of one of the most brutal battles of the Anglo-Boer War, where three remarkable leaders played their part. Louis Botha, the brave Boer leader, led his troops with valor. Winston Churchill, who was usually seen as a war correspondent, took on the role of a courier in this particular battle. And even Mahatma Gandhi, known for his peaceful resistance, served as a stretcher-bearer, showcasing his unwavering compassion.

As the river flowed steadily towards the vast sea, I couldn’t help but feel a connection to its journey.

Embarking on an Adventure through the Tugela River Valley in a 4×4

I tackled the 37km journey to Zingela in my trusty Subaru Forester. It was just past Colenso when I veered off onto an unmarked dirt road that led me into the rugged and arid Tugela River Valley. Compared to the lush fields of the Midlands, this landscape was harsher and more unforgiving. Clusters of aloe plants dotted the roadside, while scrawny goats precariously balanced on their hind legs, feasting on the leaves of stunted trees.

Completing the 37-kilometer trek to Zingela Safari & River Company is no easy feat, and only a 4×4 vehicle can handle the challenge. The treacherous road acts as a convenient deterrent for those who are simply passing through.

In preparation for the road ahead, I engaged X-Mode in my Subaru Forester, determined to be among the fortunate few who conquer the obstacles and arrive at the lodge. And after an intense hour-long drive, I finally reached my destination.

Imagine being in a remote area, far away from any neighbors. That’s exactly where I found myself when I arrived at the Tugela River. This stretch of the river is so isolated that the closest neighbors are 20 kilometers downstream and 50 kilometers upstream. As I set up camp along the riverside, surrounded by tambotis and Tugela milkwoods, I couldn’t help but feel the serenity of the dry valley bushveld.

Upon my arrival, I had the pleasure of meeting Mark Caverleigh. With his booming voice, pioneer’s spirit, and a thick white beard that made him look like a rogue Santa Claus, he immediately caught my attention. As the rain poured down that night, I sat and chatted with Mark about the river. He shared stories of his upbringing on a tributary of the Tugela and how he has been living at Zingela, mostly in a tent, since 1983.

“We have a deep connection with this river. It’s not just a source of livelihood for us through rafting and fishing, but it’s also our spiritual link to nature,” Mark explained.

What fascinated me most was Mark’s comparison between the Tugela and the renowned Zambezi River. Surprisingly, he found the Tugela to be even more captivating and untamed. “There’s something about this river that ignites a sense of wonder in me,” he mused.

‘When I go on multi-day trips, there are moments when I paddle for days without encountering another person,’ he says, taking a sip of his brandy. ‘You’ll notice that there’s a vast stretch of land where nothing happened during the battles. It’s because the terrain is so challenging and rugged.’

We peered into the darkness, and suddenly, the whole river was illuminated by a dazzling bolt of lightning.

The rain continued to pour throughout the night, causing the river to double in size by morning.

It was the perfect weather for a bachelor party and me to embark on a thrilling white-water rafting adventure.

Let’s dive into the exciting world of white-water rafting!

Zingela Camp is no stranger to some intense white-water action. In fact, it has proudly hosted the South African white-water rafting championships not once, but twice! Talk about making a splash.

As we made our way to the starting point, the scenery was like something out of a dream. We passed by gentle shepherd trees and vibrant blue-flowered bankrotbos, building excitement for what lay ahead. And boy, were we in for a ride!

The river greeted us with a menacing display of power. It was a swirling, churning, and bubbling beast, its muddy waters looking like they could swallow us whole. The currents were so strong that paddling wouldn’t even be necessary – just holding on for dear life would be the ultimate challenge.

Amongst the fearless adventurers, there were side bets on who would end up taking an unplanned dip in the river. The anticipation was palpable.

With nerves of steel, we pushed our seven-man raft into the tumultuous waters. Debris raced past us, a reminder of the untamed nature of the river. A trio of two-man rafts followed suit, ready to brave the wild with us.

Whoa, that first rapid really took us by surprise! We were tossed into the air, hanging on for dear life, and somehow managed to gather ourselves in a calm spot, just as our laughter filled the air. But then, the next rapid decided to play a little joke on us and target the two guys who were actually planning to do the Dusi. Talk about bad luck! I’m sure they won’t live that down anytime soon. We continued our wild ride through the rapids, feeling the thrill and excitement coursing through our veins, until we finally arrived at Zingela Camp – soaked, but filled with an exhilarating thirst for more.

Uncovering hidden gems off the beaten path: Shu Shu Hot Springs and Sipho Mchunu

The next day, my adventure took me down the back roads, leading me to the charming town of Tugela Ferry. Along the way, I encountered a jaywalking leguaan (that’s a lizard for you!) and caught glimpses of the occasional hut scattered in the distance. As I neared Greytown, a sudden change of scenery caught me off guard – neat plantations as far as the eye could see. It was such a stark contrast to the rugged terrain I had just come from, like stumbling upon a wild child in a crisp school uniform.

That night, in the cozy clubhouse of St Cathryn’s Golf Estate, I stumbled upon two fascinating finds.

So, let me tell you about the first one: Shu Shu Hot Springs.

It’s out there near Kranskop, and it’s something pretty special. You see, it’s a hot spring, but there’s a catch. You can only find it and dip your toes in it when the water is low. It’s like this hidden gem, waiting for you to discover it. Hearing about it made me curious, so I talked to Glenn and Stienie Buss, who told me all about their family’s annual camping trips there.

“We’ve been doing this since 1904,” Stienie told me. Can you believe it? That’s over a hundred years of tradition!

So here’s how it goes. When the time comes, they load up all their camping gear and make their way to the island next to the spring. And let me tell you, they’ve got it all covered. They create little pools around the springs, craft mud ovens to cook their food, and dig long drops for their nature calls.

Once everything is set up, they get to enjoy three whole weeks of bliss. They soak in the hot baths, pay visits to their friends’ campsites, and even have friendly potjiekos competitions. It sounds like a real paradise out there.

Now, onto the second discovery I made. Her name is Sipho Mchunu, and she calls this area home. You know what’s really interesting about Sipho? She used to live here before she joined forces with Johnny Clegg and became part of the famous band called Juluka. How cool is that?

I had the chance to meet Sipho when Piet Nel, the owner of a fancy golf estate, gave me her phone number. I arranged a meeting with her for the next day, and I couldn’t contain my excitement.

As I approached Sipho’s kraal, situated on an elevated spot overlooking the Tugela, he warmly greeted me with a smile. We settled on the stoep, enjoying some refreshing Windhoek Lagers while goats and ducks kept us company, pecking at the ground nearby.

‘When I was a young boy, I used to take the cattle down to the river every day,’ Sipho shared. ‘It was there that I taught myself to play maskandi music on a guitar I crafted from a Castrol oil can and some fishing line.’

Throughout our conversation, Sipho recounted stories of his encounters with Johnny on the bustling streets of Joburg, their early gigs, and the adventures of life on tour. Yet, no matter where their travels took them, his heart always yearned for the Tugela.

‘I’ve traveled to countless places around the world, but this is where I find my true freedom,’ Sipho confessed.

The Enigmatic Tugela

Not too far from Jacob Zuma’s Nkandla complex, I toyed with the idea of paying a visit to inquire whether Tugela water is used to fill the firepool. However, I decided to keep moving, continuing my journey.

As I neared the ocean, I couldn’t help but be reminded of the Battle of Ndondakusuka, a significant event in Zulu history. Many historians regard it as the bloodiest battle ever fought by the Zulu people.

The battle took place on December 2, 1856 and was the culmination of a power struggle between half-brothers Cetshwayo and Mbuyazi. It is estimated that between 15,000 and 20,000 lives were lost in the conflict. The area where the battle occurred, where a tributary meets the Tugela river, is still known today as Mathambo, meaning ‘the place of bones’.

As I continued my journey, I reached the last stretch of my trip.

As I walked the final hundred meters along the river, I couldn’t help but notice the debris and vegetation that had been carried and deposited on both sides. It was like the river’s way of spitting out its unwanted waste. The sight reminded me of the aggressive hound that had chased me away when I first embarked on my journey.

There was a certain poetic beauty in the connection between the dog and the river. It was as if the tumultuous twists and turns of my entire adventure were reflected in the dramatic nature of this legendary waterway. From getting lost in the misty mountains to navigating treacherous rapids, every step of my journey had been filled with excitement and unpredictability. I even had the unexpected pleasure of encountering a famous musician along the way.

Now, standing here at the mouth of the river, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of accomplishment. The river had taken me on a wild ride, but I had finally reached my destination—the vast expanse of the Indian Ocean. It was the perfect culmination of my adventure, and I couldn’t have asked for a more fitting ending.

The Tugela River may not be the longest river in South Africa, but it truly embodies the spirit of our nation.

Just like South Africa, the Tugela River is a place of immense natural beauty and unique stories. It has a turbulent past, filled with moments of violence. The river is both awe-inspiring and unpredictable, constantly changing and filled with an incredible array of life.

The name itself is rather fitting for this river that seems to morph and transform in countless ways.

Find Your Stay

If you’re looking for a place to stay while exploring the Tugela River, you can’t go wrong with the Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge. This charming lodge offers breathtaking views and is the perfect base for hiking up the Amphitheatre. Make sure to indulge in their delicious food at their lovely restaurant. You can reach them at 058-713-6361 or visit their website at witsieshoek.co.za.

At The Cavern, our family resort beneath the Amphitheatre has been a beloved destination since 1941. We offer delicious meals, guided walks, and evening activities for everyone to enjoy. You can reach us at 036-438-6270 or visit our website at cavern.co.za.

Looking for a mix of comfort and adventure? Look no further than Zingela River & Safari Company. Located on one of the wildest stretches of the Tugela, we provide a range of accommodations from basic tents to luxury rooms built with local materials. Contact us at 081-816-2541 or visit zingelasafaris.co.za for more information.

For a delightful experience, St Cathryn’s Golf Estate near Greytown awaits you. Our self-catering accommodation is situated on a nine-hole golf course with access to a bass-fishing dam. Indulge in home-cooked meals available upon request. Contact us at 082-555-2661 or visit stcathryns.co.za to learn more.

Sensayuma Backpackers is not your ordinary accommodation. It’s a place with breathtaking views of Tugela Mouth and its very own private access to the beach. Picture yourself chilling in a cozy hammock or taking a refreshing dip in the pool at this laid-back former home. If you want to experience a truly unforgettable getaway, look no further. You can reach them at 082-879-2915 or visit their website sensayuma.co.za.

Here’s what you can do

Ready for an adventure? Hike up to the top of the magnificent Tugela Falls starting from the Sentinel car park. It’s an exhilarating six-hour journey that even includes the famous chain ladders. To reach the car park, it’s recommended to have a 4×4 vehicle, but don’t worry if you don’t have one. You can arrange transfers from Witsieshoek by calling 058-713-6361.

If you’re up for more stunning views, why not hike into Tugela Gorge in the Royal Natal National Park? Considered one of the best day trails in the country, it offers panoramic sights of the majestic Amphitheatre. For more information, contact 036-438-6310 or visit kznwildlife.com.

Looking for a different kind of adventure? Visit Spioenkop Nature Reserve, where you can witness amazing vistas of the dam and spot incredible wildlife like zebras and giraffes. Contact them at 036-488-1578 or visit kznwildlife.com to plan your visit.

If you’re looking for a quick snack on your way to Colenso, make a stop at The Aloes Shop. They have a great selection of roadside treats, including braai meat and biltong. If you’re in the mood for adventure, go white-water rafting with Zingela River & Safari Company. From November to April, they offer thrilling rapids and pools along a 20-kilometer stretch. For a relaxing experience, visit Shu Shu Hot Springs. However, keep in mind that the campsite is only open for three weeks during the winter school holidays. Contact them at 082-885-6522, zingelasafaris.co.za, or 082-577-9404 for more information.

About the car

I took a road trip in a fifth-generation Forester SUV and it breezed through both the highway and back roads effortlessly. It was like experiencing two different adventures in one journey. The highway ride from Joburg to the Tugela was smooth, and the SUV handled it with ease. Then, when I turned onto the back roads, the Forester proved its capabilities once again.

One of the features that impressed me was the adaptive cruise control. It was so enjoyable to use, as it took care of the speed while I focused on steering. And I couldn’t help but appreciate the reverse automatic braking and pre-collision braking systems, which added an extra layer of safety to my trip. Another notable feature is X-Mode, a handy tool for off-roading that automatically adjusts the throttle power to tackle challenging driving conditions.

What sets the Forester apart is its standard features, which include seven airbags and direct fuel injection. These are not just extras – they come with the vehicle at no additional cost. And when you combine that with its competitive price, it’s no wonder the Forester has become one of Subaru’s best-selling models. It’s a great SUV that offers excellent value for your money.