Tour de Karoo

Hey there! Have you ever heard of the Tour de Karoo? It’s an incredible event that takes place in the beautiful Karoo region of South Africa. Let me tell you all about it!

So, what exactly is the Tour de Karoo? Well, it’s a challenging cycling race that spans over several days and covers a distance of around 700 kilometers. It takes riders through some of the most breathtaking landscapes you can imagine.

Imagine pedaling through vast open spaces, surrounded by towering mountains and stunning vistas. The Karoo region is known for its arid beauty, with wide plains and rugged terrain. And let me tell you, cycling through these landscapes is truly an unforgettable experience.

But it’s not just the incredible scenery that makes the Tour de Karoo special. It’s also the camaraderie and sense of achievement that come with completing such a demanding race. You’ll be part of a group of like-minded individuals, all pushing themselves to their limits and cheering each other on.

The Tour de Karoo is not for the faint of heart. It’s a challenging race that requires physical and mental strength. But don’t worry, it’s not just for professional cyclists. Anyone with a reasonable level of fitness and a passion for cycling can participate.

The race is organized in stages, with each stage covering a specific distance. Along the way, you’ll encounter various towns and villages, where you can rest and recharge before taking on the next stage. And trust me, the local communities are incredibly welcoming and supportive.

While participating in the Tour de Karoo, you’ll have the opportunity to experience the true spirit of South Africa. You’ll interact with locals, sample delicious food and drink, and learn about the rich history and culture of the region.

But above all, the Tour de Karoo is an adventure. It’s a chance to challenge yourself, push your limits, and achieve something truly remarkable. So, if you’re a passionate cyclist looking for an unforgettable experience, the Tour de Karoo is definitely something you should consider.

Just imagine crossing that finish line after days of hard work and determination, knowing that you’ve accomplished something truly incredible. The sense of achievement and pride will be overwhelming.

So, are you ready to embark on an adventure of a lifetime? If so, gear up and get ready for the Tour de Karoo. It’s an experience you’ll never forget!

When you travel through the Karoo in a car, everything can seem to blend together – the shrubs, the sheep, the passing scenery. But when you choose to explore by bike, a whole new world opens up to you. As I pedal along, I can’t help but notice the distinct scent of the veld, the vibrant colors of the earth, and the gentle creaking of the windmill in the distance. And let’s not forget about the food!

There’s something magical about experiencing the Karoo on two wheels. It’s a sensory journey that immerses you in the natural beauty and unique wonders of this place. As I ride, I feel a connection to the land that I’ve never felt before. It’s as if I’m a part of this vast landscape, actively engaging with it instead of merely passing through.

The Karoo is not just a place to see; it’s a place to experience. And one of the best ways to do that is through the simple act of cycling. Each pedal stroke brings me closer to the heart of this region, revealing its hidden treasures and allowing me to forge a personal connection with its essence.

And then there’s the food. Oh, the food! The Karoo is known for its hearty, traditional cuisine that warms the soul and satisfies the taste buds. From tender lamb chops grilled to perfection to homemade preserves bursting with flavor, every meal is a celebration of the Karoo’s culinary heritage.

As I sit down to enjoy a meal after a long day of cycling, I can’t help but appreciate how food brings people together. It’s a shared experience that transcends language and culture, connecting us on a fundamental level. And in the Karoo, where the pace of life is slower and people take the time to savor each bite, these meals become moments of pure joy.

So, if you’re looking for an adventure that will awaken your senses and nourish your soul, I highly recommend exploring the Karoo by bike. It’s an opportunity to truly immerse yourself in the beauty and flavors of this remarkable place. Trust me, once you’ve experienced the Karoo on two wheels, you’ll never see it the same way again.

Words: Lauren Dold Photos: Lauren Dold & Chris Marais

When I first traveled through the Karoo on four wheels, I thought it was just a flat expanse of land. But when I experienced it on two wheels, everything changed. The Karoo revealed a completely different story.

“This is big sky country,” my dad proclaimed as we drove near the Gariep Dam, heading south towards Steynsburg. Our final stop was Mount Melsetter, the Southey family’s farm located in the northeastern Groot Karoo. But more specifically, we were on our way to the Saddlebum Pub in the main house. We knew our friends and fellow cyclists would be eagerly waiting there.

A long time ago, my family and I went to visit Mount Melsetter. It had been years since we last went there, all the way back when my twin sister, Sam, took her first steps. I can’t quite remember where I took mine, but apparently it was just a few days later, somewhere ordinary on our way back home.

During that trip, we also learned how to play boulle, which is a fancy French game, and discovered the proper way to eat a pomegranate. Mount Melsetter holds many precious memories for us.

And now, we were about to embark on an exciting adventure called the ‘Tour de Karoo’, or the Fish River Trail. This journey would start right here at Mount Melsetter.

My family, the Southeys, have owned Mount Melsetter for over 80 years. We’ve been in the Middelburg area even longer, since the 1880s. We were trailblazers in both merino sheep and thoroughbred horse breeding. It’s amazing to think that what was once our family home is now a guesthouse and home to Great Karoo Cycling, which I manage with my wife, Candy.

When you visit Mount Melsetter, you’ll be greeted by lush green lawns, a refreshing swimming pool, and a clay tennis court. We even have a small herd of sheep and a paddock for our horses. This sprawling homestead is truly a slice of Karoo paradise, stretching all the way to the banks of the Great Brak River.

Did you know that there are more sheep and goats in the Little and Great Karoo than people? It’s true! There are about seven million of them, which is about three times the number of humans.

Our adventure began at the Saddlebum, where David Southey, our guide and friend, surprised us by suggesting a bike ride around the farm. We were a group of 14 riders, still getting used to the feel of our bikes after long hours in the car. As we started our 11-kilometer journey, the sheep scattered in front of us, making way for our little peloton.

The ride was short, but it was long enough for some of us to feel uncomfortable in the saddle and for me to get a dreaded flat tire. I hoped it wasn’t a bad omen for the days ahead. Nevertheless, we forged ahead, ready to embrace whatever challenges lay before us.

I was saved by an e-bike from Great Karoo Cycling. As the group’s second youngest member (I have a two-minute advantage over Sam), I initially planned on renting a regular bike. I was convinced that I could cycle the approximately 160 kilometers in the next four days without any issues. After all, everyone else in the group was between 54 and 72 years old. However, considering Sam’s injured ankle and my youthfulness, we thought it would be wise to have at least one e-bike as a precaution. It turns out, that was the smartest choice we could have made.

As I embarked on the adventure along the Steynsburg road, I couldn’t help but notice the unique landmarks that decorated the area. Teebus, along with its companion Koffiebus, stood proudly in the distance, resembling giant teapots and coffee pots.

The anticipation grew as we gathered around the magnificent dining table, which could seat up to 14 people. The table was adorned with a feast fit for kings and queens – tender, slow-cooked Karoo lamb and succulent venison shanks, accompanied by creamy mashed potatoes and complemented by a rich red wine. Conversations flowed effortlessly as old friends caught up and new friendships blossomed. In the distance, the sounds of laughter echoed through the halls, lulling me to sleep with a sense of warmth and camaraderie.

The sun rose early, marking the start of an exhilarating day. Fueled by cups of aromatic coffee and homemade rusks, we eagerly loaded our bikes onto the trailer. Fred Pitout, a former chaplain from Michaelhouse, skillfully took the wheel of our support vehicle. It was Fred’s love for Mount Melsetter that prompted him to choose this place as his forever home during the lockdown.

As I pedaled alongside Fred, the gravel road stretched out before us, lined with rusty gates and windmills. And there, always in our field of vision, were Koffiebus and Teebus, two towering hills serving as our guideposts.

As I embarked on my adventure along the Great Fish River, I was pleasantly surprised to discover that the Karoo is not the flat landscape that many believe it to be. In fact, there were hills aplenty, creating a picturesque backdrop for our journey. The hum of my e-bike’s accelerator drowned out any fleeting moments of doubt, and I confidently rode past the group as we ascended the inclines. The only person who could rival my eagerness was my mom, who was also embracing the thrill of riding an e-bike and relishing her role as the leader of our pack.

Thinking of Ernest Hemingway’s words, “… it is through riding a bicycle that you truly experience the shape of a country,” I couldn’t help but agree. The second part of his quote also rang true: “… since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them.” And boy, did we sweat. By the time we reached our breakfast spot, a deserted farmhouse only 15km from where we started, we were completely drained. But our fatigue quickly melted away as we dug into a delicious spread of homemade granola, fried eggs, quiche, and thick slices of freshly baked farm bread slathered with sweet jam.

After refueling and resting our tired bodies, we hopped back on our bikes. Although we faced a challenging uphill climb, the reward came when we soared down an exhilarating 13km of pure downhill bliss. Along the way, we passed contented grazing cows and charming old farmhouses, soaking in the idyllic scenery.

Karoo horses used to be highly prized for their distinctive breed. They were known for their strength and endurance, which was attributed to the calcium-rich soil and water of the Karoo. These elements were crucial for the horses’ bone development. (Photo Chris Marais)

After our challenging 45km cycling adventure, we returned to Mount Melsetter. We happily relaxed on the lawn, basking in the warm afternoon sun beneath a massive American ash tree. The springer spaniels, our faithful companions, nestled beside us, enjoying a much-needed nap.

During dinner that evening, Quizmaster David posed an intriguing question to the group: “How long did the Hundred Year War last?” The room fell silent as everyone pondered the answer. Panama hats, their origins shrouded in mystery, were also discussed. The quiz continued with more puzzling questions, leaving few correct responses and many playful admonitions for answering incorrectly or speaking out of turn.

On the second day, we were told that it would be the longest and hottest day of our journey. We had to cover around 60 kilometers under the scorching 34°C sun. We started early in the morning, and the first 20 kilometers went by pretty smoothly. We took a break to have breakfast near the Teebus River. As we continued, we saw vast stretches of green fields being watered by center pivots. There were also these beautiful bright yellow pomegranates, also known as Karoo Gold, growing randomly in the grasslands. These flowers only bloom in late spring, adding an unexpected touch of color to the landscape.

E-bikes are amazing because they have an accelerator that makes uphill rides much easier. It’s like having a little boost of power!

But let me tell you, the rest of the ride was tough. It was hard work, and the heat and wind didn’t help at all. Plus, the road was so bumpy! By the time I had about 13 kilometers left, my battery was almost dead and I was completely exhausted. Luckily, Fred in the support vehicle came to the rescue. I felt like royalty as we zoomed past everyone on the last uphill stretch before coasting down to Lowlands Estate.

As I arrived at the gate and made my way up the gravel drive, I was greeted by our wonderful hosts, Anne and Dave Bowker. They were waiting for me on the lawn of the charming Lowlands Country House, which is tucked away amidst stunning pecan orchards and ancient plein trees. The house itself can accommodate up to eight guests, and just 4km away is the equally inviting Lowlands Manor, where ten people can stay. One of the highlights of this picturesque property is the Fish River, which flows through it, nourishing the thriving pecan nut orchards and the nearby sheep farms. The lush surroundings truly make it a paradise on earth.

After spending a long time riding our bikes (whether they are electric or not, the pain is inevitable), we took a break and put our feet in the pool to cool down. The air was filled with the delicious smell coming from Anne’s kitchen. We found a spot under the shade of the verandah and eagerly enjoyed the homemade chicken pie and freshly baked bread made by Dave. We also quenched our thirst with ice-cold beers. Feeling tired and satisfied, we made our way to our home for the next two nights, Lowlands Manor. Anne shared that the house was built before the Anglo-Boer War and you can actually hear its history through the creaking floors. The manor is spacious and cozy, with thick walls, large windows, and a verandah that overlooks the pool and tennis court.

I have a host named Dave Bowker who runs a guesthouse, and let me tell you, he has some incredible stories about the Karoo. These stories really added some color to our rest stops.

Imagine this: I was hoping to take a nap in the afternoon, but suddenly, I heard the loud bleating of a hundred sheep. It turns out they were running past the garden wall, right when I had just laid down to rest. They were being chased by a shepherd and a sheep dog, and they were going in every direction possible. Eventually, they were gently guided back through the gate and started noisily grazing in the pastures.

So here’s what happened on our third day: we didn’t cycle very far, just about 30km on the Lowlands Loop. Along the way, we made a couple of stops, first at a pecan packhouse and then at a dairy. The night turned out to be quite cold, and after dinner, we all gathered in a cozy lounge. That’s when Anne and Dave, the owners of the farm, started sharing some incredible stories with us. These stories were about the farm and Anne’s family history. It turns out that this whole region, between the Fish River and Cradock, has been farmed by Anne’s relatives, the Collett families, for many generations.

Now, there was one story that really stood out. It was about Anne’s great uncle. One night, in the middle of the night, a group of Boer commandos showed up at his door, looking for clothes. And you won’t believe what he did – he gave them his best suit! But here’s the funny thing – he would’ve much rather given them his regular town clothes. Why? Because he had all his money, the week’s wages, stashed away in his waistcoat pocket! Talk about bad luck, right?

Watch out for those bulls, they warned us. While the other bulls were busy fighting, this one calmly observed as 14 bikes hurriedly zoomed past.

When we set off towards Cradock for the final stretch of our journey, we were feeling a bit heavier than when we started, thanks to Anne’s delicious sponge cake with plum jam. We veered off the usual route along the Fish River due to the strong wind.

It was a tough ride from the beginning to the end, with a maximum temperature of 11°C and winds blowing at 28km/h. There was nowhere to hide, and the road was full of bumps.

“Change gears, put your head down, and keep going,” my dad advised. He looked like a tennis ball with legs in his bright neon jacket as he cycled beside me during a particularly challenging uphill climb. “Hills keep you honest!” he shouted before riding ahead. All I could think about was my turn on the e-bike.

A border collie is like having a valuable assistant on a Karoo farm. They are incredibly helpful and reliable.

When we were starting to lose our sense of humor, Dave Southey saved the day by shouting from the passing bakkie window that the bus to Cradock was just beyond the hill. Although it wasn’t entirely true, it gave us the push we needed to keep going.

After five long hours and 50km, we finally arrived in Cradock. We were freezing, exhausted, and desperately in need of something to drink. Fortunately, Lisa Antrobus from Victoria Manor and Tuishuise was there to greet us. She treated us to a round of hot chocolates laced with rum before we sat down to a delicious lunch in the Albert Dining Room. The rest of the afternoon was spent snuggled up by the fire, sharing stories of our sore muscles and tired feet. Eventually, we found our way to our cozy Tuishuisies for a well-deserved rest.

That evening, dinner filled the air with laughter and warmth. My dear friend Dave Southey made a toast to each of us, his words carrying an affectionate sting. It seems that the more playful the jab, the deeper the bond between old friends. We raised our glasses to the agile members of our group, Dave likening them to springhares darting across a moonlit landscape. The rest of us, I suppose, were the steady tortoises in the race. In honor of Dave, who would turn 70 in a matter of hours, we all joined in the toast. The challenges of the day, the rough roads, and our weary legs were all forgotten as we eagerly discussed our next cycling adventure through the Karoo.

Windmill or windpump? I know it’s a heated debate in the Karoo, but technically, it’s a mill that pumps water. (Check out Chris Marais’ photo for proof).

Give these five Karoo cycle trails a spin

Fish River Trail
You can take on 160km over four days. The feature covers the basics, but if you’re a serious cyclist, you can go the extra mile (or two nights) by biking from Cradock across Swaershoek Pass to Somerset East. The trail ends at Glen Avon Guestfarm, just 12km outside of town.

Mt Melsetter Trail
There are plenty of routes to choose from, on the farm and its neighboring farms, as well as district roads within biking distance of Mt Melsetter. These routes range from a manageable 25km to a more challenging 55km. Go ahead and mix in two or three days of cycling with other fun activities in the area like hiking, horseback riding, tennis, and river rafting.

The Gariep Dam, located on the border between the Free State and the Eastern Cape, is a popular destination for tourists and locals alike. Whenever there is a drought and the water overflows, people flock to witness the marvel of nature. It’s truly a sight to behold!

Now, let me tell you about the incredible adventure that awaits you on the Sneeuberg Trail. This 160km trail spans over five days, taking you on a journey you won’t forget.

Starting at Mt Melsetter and ending in Graaff-Reinet, you have two options for your route. The first option takes you through the eastern side of the Compassberg via Nieu Bethesda. The second option is the western route via The Poplars. Both routes offer their own unique experiences.

Along the trail, you’ll come across exciting activities and stops to make your journey even more memorable. Imagine going river rafting on the Brak River and enjoying a delicious lunch at the Lamb Chop restaurant. You’ll also have the opportunity to visit the famous Owl House and witness its intriguing art. As for your overnight stays, you can choose from a range of accommodations to suit your budget and preferences. Options include the cozy Gordonville guesthouse, the charming Ganora Guest Farm, the welcoming Weltevreden Guest Lodge, and the luxurious five-star Drostdy Hotel in Graaff-Reinet.

So, if you’re seeking an adventure that combines breathtaking landscapes with exciting activities and comfortable accommodations, the Sneeuberg Trail is the perfect choice for you. Get ready to embark on an unforgettable journey through the heart of South Africa’s natural beauty!

Let’s talk about the Gariep Trail, a fantastic adventure that spans over 140km or 180km.

First things first, the Gariep Trail takes you on an incredible journey through three provinces: the Eastern Cape, Northern Cape, and Free State. It’s like a mini tour of South Africa all in one! Along the way, you’ll pass through the Oviston and Gariep reserves, making it a nature lover’s dream.

Now, let’s dive into the fun stuff. There are so many stops and activities to choose from, you won’t know where to start. You can try your hand at river rafting or fly fishing in the Orange River, which will definitely get your heart racing.

If you’re a history buff, you can take a guided tour of the concentration camp outside Norvalspont. It’s a powerful experience that will transport you back in time and give you a deeper understanding of our country’s past.

One of the highlights of the Gariep Trail is a visit to the Gariep Dam wall. You’ll have the chance to go on a guided tour inside the wall itself, which is pretty cool if you ask me. Plus, you can’t miss out on the sunset cruises on the dam. They’re the perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring.

When it comes to sleeping arrangements, don’t worry, I’ve got you covered. If you decide to start your journey in Colesburg, you can stay at The Lighthouse Guesthouse, which is the starting point of the trail. It’s cozy and welcoming, so you’ll feel right at home.

As you continue along the trail, you’ll come across Karoo Nights guesthouse, a charming little spot where you can rest and recharge. It’s the perfect place to kick off your shoes and relax after a long day of hiking.

Next up, we have Morning Glory Cottages. These cozy cottages are nestled in the heart of nature, surrounded by breathtaking views. Trust me, you won’t want to leave once you settle in.

And finally, we have Waschbank River Lodge, located right on the banks of the Orange River. The lodge offers stunning views and a peaceful atmosphere, making it the perfect end to your Gariep Trail adventure.

So, whether you’re into outdoor activities, history, or simply want to unwind in nature, the Gariep Trail has something for everyone. It’s time to pack your bags and embark on this incredible journey!

When I arrived at Dave and Anne’s verandah at Lowlands after a hot day of riding, it was such a relief. My thighs were aching, and I was in need of some rest.

The Oorlogspoort Trail is a 130km journey that typically takes two to three days to complete. It starts at the Gariep Dam and follows the old Colesberg road, passing through Oorlogspoort and Macasserfontein before ending at Mt Melsetter.

If the trail proves to be too lengthy, there are trailing vehicles available to uplift cyclists and provide assistance along the way. You can find more information about this trail at gkcycle.co.za.

Trip Planner

Getting There

Getting to Mount Melsetter requires some travel. If you’re coming from Johannesburg, it’s about 730km away. You’ll take the N1 route, passing through Bloemfontein and the Gariep Dam. From there, continue on to Steynsburg, which is the closest town to the farm.

If you’re coming from Cape Town, the journey is about 820km. Take the N1 route to Beaufort West, then follow the R61 to Aberdeen. Finally, travel on the N9 through Graaff-Reinet and make a short stint on the R56 to reach Mount Melsetter.

Let’s Go Cycling in the Beautiful Great Karoo

Imagine exploring the stunning landscapes of the Great Karoo on a thrilling cycling adventure! Great Karoo Cycling offers a variety of trails to suit different preferences. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced cyclist, there’s a trail for you.

There are five trails to choose from, each with its own unique length, duration, and level of difficulty. In autumn, you can embark on these amazing trails from mid-March to early June. If you prefer the vibrant colors of spring, the trails are available from mid-September to the first week of December.

It’s important to plan ahead and book your trail in advance to ensure availability. These trails are quite popular, so securing your spot early is essential. The trails usually begin on a Thursday and end on the following Monday or Tuesday. However, the operator can customize the trail dates to accommodate your specific needs and requirements.

The ideal number of cyclists for each trail is between 8 and 12 people. The maximum number allowed is 14, so it’s important to keep this in mind when assembling your cycling group.

Now, let’s talk about the cost. For the incredible Fish River Trail, the price is R9,000 per person, and this includes shared accommodation and delicious meals. Please note that drinks are not included in the package and can be purchased separately from the honesty bars at the accommodation spots.

If you’re traveling with a family group of four or more, there’s a special discounted rate of R8,000 per person for the Fish River Trail. This is a great opportunity to enjoy an unforgettable cycling adventure with your loved ones.

Are you ready to embark on an epic cycling journey through the Great Karoo? Contact Great Karoo Cycling now and secure your spot on one of their incredible trails. Get ready to pedal your way to unforgettable memories!

Looking to rent a bike? You’re in luck! Great Karoo Cycling offers a variety of bike options. We have six 29-inch mountain bikes available for rental at a rate of R250 per day. For those who prefer e-bikes, we also have six e-bikes available for rental at a rate of R300 per day. Give us a call at 011 489 5411 to book your bike today!

Looking for a place to stay?

Check out Victoria Manor and Tuishuise!

Each Tuishuis at Victoria Manor and Tuishuise is beautifully decorated in its own unique theme or period. From the art prints to the furniture, we pay attention to every detail. As a special offer for Getaway readers, you can enjoy a discounted weekend rate of R550 per person sharing, including bed and breakfast. If you prefer a single room, the rate is R750 per person (excluding peak season). To make a reservation, please contact us at 048 881 1650 or visit our website at tuishuise.co.za.

Welcome to Lowlands Estate!

Looking for the perfect place to enjoy quality time with your family? Look no further! Lowlands Estate is the ideal family retreat, offering an array of activities such as cycling, rafting, and more. Our spacious houses can accommodate up to 22 people, ensuring that everyone can join in on the fun. With rates starting from R3 200 for the house that can sleep 10 people, it’s an affordable option for a memorable vacation. Don’t miss out – call us now at 071 393 3354 or visit our website at lowlandscountryhouse.co.za!

Experience the charm of Mount Melsetter

Have you ever dreamed of staying in a charming old farmstead? Your dream can come true at Mount Melsetter! This family-owned property has been passed down through the Southey family for decades, and now you have the opportunity to be a part of its rich history. We have recently added private cottages in our front garden, offering you a cozy and intimate experience. Rates start from R700 per person, including bed and breakfast, and an additional R220 for dinner. Don’t miss your chance to experience the rustic allure of Mount Melsetter – call us today at 083 303 7625 or visit our website at greatkaroo.co.za!