The Wild Coast: Discover Port St. Johns in a Unique Way

Are you searching for an unconventional destination that offers a blend of adventure, culture, and natural beauty? Look no further than Port St. Johns, a hidden gem nestled along the untamed shores of the Wild Coast. I invite you to join me as I take you on an offbeat journey through this enchanting town. Prepare to be amazed!

Once you set foot in Port St. Johns, you’ll quickly realize why it’s known as the ultimate off-the-beaten-path destination. Its untamed landscapes, vibrant local culture, and breathtaking views make it a truly remarkable place to explore. Unleash your adventurous spirit as we delve into the heart of this captivating town.

Embrace the Magic of Nature

Port St. Johns is a nature lover’s paradise, offering stunning landscapes that will leave you in awe. Imagine standing on the edge of a towering cliff, gazing out at the vast expanse of the Indian Ocean. The crashing waves, the salty breeze, and the panoramic views will ignite a sense of wonder within you. Feel the sand between your toes as you explore the pristine beaches that stretch endlessly along the coast. Let the rhythm of the ocean guide you as you embark on a thrilling kayaking adventure or try your hand at surfing.

Immerse Yourself in Local Culture

One of the key highlights of Port St. Johns is its vibrant local culture. Interacting with the friendly and welcoming locals is an experience like no other. Engage in conversations that will broaden your horizons and offer a unique perspective on life. Discover the rich traditions and customs of the Xhosa community, known for their warm hospitality and vibrant ceremonies. Immerse yourself in the rhythms of traditional music and dance, and perhaps even join in the celebration.

Uncover Hidden Treasures

Port St. Johns is brimming with hidden treasures just waiting to be discovered. Explore the mystical beauty of the Magwa Falls, a hidden gem tucked away in a lush forest. Feel the mist on your face as you stand in awe of the cascading waterfalls. Embark on a hiking adventure through the dense vegetation of the Silaka Nature Reserve, keeping an eye out for the diverse wildlife that calls this place home. For those seeking an adrenaline rush, abseiling down the steep cliffs of the Wild Coast is an experience you won’t soon forget.

Indulge Your Taste Buds

After a day of exploration, satisfy your hunger with a taste of the local cuisine. Port St. Johns offers an array of culinary delights that will tantalize your taste buds. Sample the freshest seafood caught right from the ocean, or indulge in a traditional Xhosa meal prepared with love and care. Let the flavors of the Wild Coast come alive on your palate as you savor each bite.

Experience Port St. Johns: a Journey Like No Other

Port St. Johns is not your typical tourist destination. It’s a place that embraces the untamed beauty of nature, immerses you in a vibrant local culture, and invites you to embark on unforgettable adventures. If you’re looking for an offbeat destination that will awaken your senses and leave a lasting impression, then Port St. Johns is calling your name. Pack your bags and let the wild coast guide you on the journey of a lifetime.

Port St Johns is a remarkable destination that offers breathtaking natural beauty, a rejuvenating atmosphere, and an abundance of captivating experiences. This enchanting place has the power to ignite your soul and fill your heart with wonder.

Wow, check out that stunning sunset near the old landing strip in Port St Johns!

In the movie Man On Ground, Timothy tells Ade, “Port St Johns. I went there once with my mom. It was the only time I ever saw her smile.” A similar thought pops into my head as I embark on this journey to a place filled with enchantment. Enchantment: that’s the word I use because I can’t quite put my finger on what exactly makes this place so special. A friend of mine, Khumo, believes it’s something in the water. Whatever it is, Port St Johns holds a certain magic, and one day soon, I want to share this magical experience with my parents.

As I make my way towards the Isinuka Mud Caves and sulphur pools, nestled in a dense forest just a short 10-minute drive from the town, I can’t help but reminisce about my visit to Port St Johns. Last year, when I relocated to Cape Town, I embarked on a road trip from Durban to Mthatha, and PSJ, as the locals call it, was one of my stops. Even though my stay was only two days, the place captured my heart, leaving me with a strong desire to come back.

Taking in the breathtaking view of Second Beach in Port St Johns from Amapondo Backpackers, I can’t help but feel a sense of familiarity. The gravel and rocky road leading here, surrounded by vibrant leaves that almost graze the car, transport me to a place of déjà vu. Stepping out of the car, I am warmly greeted by Phozisa Mpinda, who offers to guide me to the caves and pools.

Phozisa, a resident of this area, has witnessed countless visitors come to experience the sacred healing site of the Pondo people. She advises me to bring a bottle, or even two, along for the journey. As I approach the foot of the path, I am welcomed by Phozisa’s extended family. We exchange words and laughter, creating an instant connection, before I continue my ascent towards the caves.

Welcome to Isinuka, the Place of the Smell. When you step into this cave, you’ll immediately notice a faint scent of sulfur in the air. It’s like a reminder of those rainy days from my childhood, playing outside in the damp sand. Speaking of which, Phozisa tells me that the clay found here is great for your skin. It can help heal scars and acne, while the sulfur and springs are perfect for rejuvenation and overall healing.

I watch as Phozisa fills up a bottle with the rich, ochre-colored mud. It’s as if she’s capturing the essence of this place in that small container. And then, there’s the salty water – a refreshing liquid that holds its own healing properties.

Isinuka is a sanctuary of natural wonders, where you can truly reconnect with the earth and feel its power. Every breath you take here is infused with a sense of renewal and vitality. It’s a place where miracles happen, where the elements themselves conspire to bring you healing and rejuvenation.

So, if you’re looking for a unique and transformative experience, Isinuka is the perfect destination for you. It’s not just a cave, it’s a portal to a world of natural wonders and a journey towards self-discovery. Come and immerse yourself in the magic of Isinuka, and let the healing powers of clay, sulfur, and salt water transform you.

I stayed at Amapondo Backpackers Lodge for a few nights. This is where my journey into the mystical world of PSJ began in 2014. PSJ is not just a place, it’s a village filled with friendly, laid-back, and warm-hearted people. I didn’t know what to expect when I arrived, but I was hopeful to meet the legendary Ben Dekker and the wise healers of Pondoland.

Curiosity led me to inquire about Dekker – a man of many talents: actor, writer, politician, artist, and activist. He has been a resident of this village for nearly four decades. As I talked to the locals, each had their own intriguing stories to share about him. “Just get a bottle of wine and go search for him in the hidden caves,” one person suggested. Another said, “I always give him R30 or R50. He’s old now and no longer able to work, you know.”

When I arrived at Amapondo, my adventure kicked off with a mouthwatering homemade burger. To my surprise, the lodge’s manager, Mazz, crowned me with a playful bright red wig. As more guests trickled in, the atmosphere buzzed with energy. Engaging in lively conversations and swapping stories, I found myself connecting with fellow travelers from South Africa and around the world.

What sets this backpackers’ haven apart is its unique vibe. It’s not your typical dingy or weird place. Here, people live life a little more freely, embracing the opportunity to get to know each other. We all share the same sleeping space in the dorms, but there’s also the option for privacy if you need it.

The view of the Mzimvubu River as it merges with the sea is absolutely breathtaking.

Today, I had the pleasure of meeting Stuart Kriel, a former wealthy man who was married to a model. He now resides in PSJ and manages a charming three-star hotel. Stuart shared an interesting observation with me, stating that “all the misfits of society end up here.” It got me thinking – perhaps the term “misfit” was coined by someone who felt trapped within societal norms. Little did I know, I was about to uncover the truth behind Stuart’s statement.

Stuart and I set off for the beach, making our way towards Ben Dekker’s pool. Constructed solely using individual rocks, it’s a marvel that he created all by himself right on the shore.

The next morning, I find myself standing on top of Mount Ethesinger with Sibusiso Langa, the talented barman at Amapondo. Joined by my visitor Ian Gafney, we embark on a little adventure to explore the town. As we gaze out from the old, yet still operational, airstrip, a breathtaking sight unfolds before us. The Gates of St. Johns gorge captures our attention, with Mount Thesiger and Mount Sullivan flanking the river, their sandstone peaks reaching towards the sky.

Our journey continues as we venture onto a rocky dirt road that leads us to Poenskop, also known as First Beach. As we approach the village, we are greeted by rolling hills and a mesmerizing coastline. The mountain face gracefully descends, revealing a sparkling blue shoreline with white waves playfully dancing across the surface. The views are simply indescribable and the tranquility is astounding, despite the wind blowing.

As I walk along, I notice a group of five boys trailing behind me. They seem curious, maybe even a little bored. Suddenly, they break into song, singing a beautiful Xhosa melody. The way they hit each note perfectly and the shy expressions on their faces make me wish I knew isiXhosa like the Pondos do. Their language sounds so deep and poetic.

As I stand here at the edge of Magwa Falls, I can’t help but be mesmerized by the sight before me. The waters gush down with such force, creating a magnificent cascade that stretches 124 meters down. It’s a breathtaking sight, especially when the morning light casts its golden rays on the path below.

But let’s move on to our final destination – Cape Hermes Lighthouse. It’s just a short stroll away, and trust me, the walk is worth it. As you make your way there, you’ll be greeted by sweeping views of the endless sea on your right. And on the left, you’ll see charming huts perched on the lush hills. It’s a sight that perfectly captures the essence of this coastal paradise.

Speaking of paradises, let me tell you about the place I’m staying in – Turtle Cove Cottage at Amapondo. Waking up here is a true delight. I can hear the soothing sound of the sea from my cozy bed. And as the morning unfolds, the birds start their chorus, creating a symphony of nature. The warm sunlight gradually illuminates the room, starting with my right foot as it peeks through the windows of this two-story haven.

So, dear friend, if you’re looking for a getaway that will awaken your senses and rejuvenate your soul, this is the place for you. With its awe-inspiring natural wonders, abundant birdlife, and tranquil ambiance, the Eastern Cape truly has it all. Take a leap of faith, pack your bags, and embark on an unforgettable adventure.

I’m still trying to figure it out – this mysterious thing here. There’s a silent atmosphere all around me. The cars and people sound softer, more tranquil, and the river, mountains, and forests bring a sense of awe and grounding. The people and nature are intertwined, creating a beautiful connection. The beaches are a gleaming gold, and the waters are a striking blue. I stand up and make my way towards the beach. I have a strong determination to find Ben. They said he could be at the old lodge nearby or in his cave. I don’t find him at the lodge, but I stumble upon his unique dwelling. A sign above the door reads ‘Ben’s Shack’. I casually stroll towards Second Beach, walking along the cliff’s edge, high above the sandy shore. The morning sun breaks through the mist.

I’m walking down a path when I come across a gate adorned with sculptures. It’s an interesting sight, and curiosity takes hold of me. As I approach the end of the path, I see a tall, elderly man with white hair and a beard. He’s wearing a vibrant beanie and his attire is casually eccentric. He seems busy tending to his garden. This must be Ben. I can’t contain my excitement as I greet him with a warm hug.

Once inside, Ben offers me a boiled egg for breakfast, a simple yet thoughtful gesture. He then takes me on a tour of his property. As we walk, Ben becomes a living encyclopedia, sharing stories about the different plants and driftwood art he has collected from the sea.

One particular room catches my attention. Ben tells me it’s the same room where he hosted Nelson Mandela, whom he knew from his political days. Mandela stayed here with his wife, Graça Machel. It’s fascinating to think about the history that permeates this place, and I feel privileged to be standing in the midst of it.

When you step into the inviting lounge at Umngazi River Bungalows, located near Port St johns, you’ll immediately understand why families keep coming back year after year. The untouched natural beauty and the warm and welcoming atmosphere make it the perfect destination for both parents and children.

‘You gotta spend some time here to really understand it, but it’s the people. They’re amazing. They bring beauty, peace, and a wild spirit,’ Stuart told me. And now, I’m starting to see it for myself. Later that morning, a friend of a friend introduces me to a healer named Dontsa. As soon as I meet him, I can feel his commanding presence and intense energy. We decide to visit Magwa Falls, and while we’re there, Dontsa shares stories of camping with his pals deep in the cracks of the rock face. He’s been familiar with this land since childhood. We can hear the crashing water in the background. Dontsa is incredibly knowledgeable about plants. He spent his youth exploring the mountains and now, he looks to nature for guidance and uses it to create his herbal remedies. Some call him a homeopath or a traditional healer, but here in Pondoland, he’s known as a sangoma.

When I visited The Kraal in Mpande, I had the pleasure of being joined by Dontsa. We spent the night there, and the next morning, we woke up bright and early. Our goal was to catch the magical sight of the sunrise. This experience was especially significant for sangomas like Dontsa because water holds a special meaning for them – it represents divinity.

As we made our way across the rocks, carefully stepping from one to another, we searched for something special. Suddenly, Dontsa’s walking stick hit something in the water. He carefully lifted it out, revealing a sea urchin. Dontsa then shared its amazing healing powers with me, and I couldn’t help but feel in awe of nature’s wonders.

But that wasn’t all. Dontsa also showed me the abundance of shells scattered across the shore. I had never seen so many shells in one place, and their beauty captivated me. Each shell had its own unique shape and color, and Dontsa explained to me how they each played a different role in nature.

Before we left, Dontsa generously gave me some shells to take home with me. Among them was a special shell that symbolized impilo, which means vitality. It was a token of the energy and life force that sangomas believe the shells possess.

Imagine this: I’m standing by the shore, watching a man fishing while a woman walks by, carrying a bucket filled with oysters she collected herself. This is Port St Johns – a place where freedom reigns and the beaches are open to everyone. Here, you won’t find any grand mansions looming over the hills. Instead, it’s a town where people from all walks of life come together and truly embrace their surroundings. Even with my bright red wig, I felt completely at ease. Port St Johns is a town that embraces individuality and draws its energy from the vibrant nature that surrounds it.

Ready to explore Port St Johns?

When I visited Port St Johns, I saw a local woman carrying oysters that she had picked from the shore. It was fascinating to witness the connection between the people and the nature in this beautiful place.

Getting there

If you’re planning to visit Port St Johns, there are a few ways to get there. I chose to fly from Cape Town to Durban, which cost me R1 556 for a round-trip ticket. From Durban, I decided to drive along the coast to Port St Johns, and the journey took about five hours. Let me tell you, the drive was absolutely breathtaking. The scenic views along the way were like a feast for the eyes.

If you’re looking for a shorter drive, you can fly to Mthatha and then take a scenic 90-kilometre drive to Port St Johns. However, I must warn you that airline tickets to Mthatha can be quite pricey. They start at about R5 000 for a round-trip ticket from Joburg.

Need to know

When you visit the town, there are two options for exploring – you can join a tour offered by lodges and backpackers, or you can venture out on your own. I recommend the latter, especially if you have children with you. It can be more enjoyable and gives you the flexibility to go at your own pace. However, you will need a car to get around, and it’s best to have a vehicle with high clearance for the rougher roads. Although not all roads are paved, they are generally manageable, with only a few sections that are rocky and uneven. I drove a sedan with good clearance, and it worked fine. If you prefer exploring on foot, it’s definitely doable. Just ask the locals for recommendations and be sure to wear comfortable shoes.

Here’s a suggestion

If you’re up for a unique experience, I highly recommend visiting the Isinuka Mud Caves and Sulphur Pools. You’ll find them along a picturesque gravel road surrounded by forests. Don’t forget to bring an old swimsuit, as it can get quite muddy. After basking in the sun, take a refreshing dip in the pools, which are not only rejuvenating but also said to have healing properties. The best part? Admission is free! For more information, you can call them at 0475641187.

Hey there! So, let me tell you about some cool places you can visit in the Eastern Cape. The first one is Second Beach, and boy, is it popular! People love going there and it’s such a beautiful spot. You can even bring a picnic and just sit back and enjoy the view. One of the things that make it so interesting is how diverse the crowd is. You’ll see all sorts of people there, from kids having fun, to traditional healers, to surfers and anglers. But hey, be careful when you go in the water because there have been some shark attacks reported in the area. Safety first!

Now, let’s talk about another awesome spot: Magwa Falls. It’s not too far from Mbotyi, in a place called Lusikisiki. Trust me, it’s worth the visit. The falls are absolutely stunning, with a drop of 144 meters! Can you imagine that? When you stand there and look at it, the beauty just keeps changing from every angle. It’s like a work of art in nature. Take your time and soak it all in.

Lastly, we have Poonskop Beach. If you’re looking for some peace and quiet, this is the place to be. It’s so secluded and peaceful, perfect for anyone who just wants to escape the hustle and bustle of city life. Fishing enthusiasts, you’re going to love it here! The best part is that fishing is totally free on this beach, and actually, most of the activities around here are free too. So, you can just relax, fish, and maybe even make some new friends with the local anglers. It’s a great place to swap stories and enjoy the simple pleasures in life.

Well, those are a few places you should definitely check out in the Eastern Cape. I’m sure you’ll have a blast exploring these beautiful spots. Happy travels!

Stay here

If you’re looking for a top-notch spot, Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa has got you covered with its unbeatable location. Just take a look at the gorgeous photo by Christopher List!

Now, let me tell you about Amapondo Backpacker Lodge. It’s not your average lodge or backpackers, my friend. It’s a little bit of both, with a quirky island-style vibe that’s sure to catch your attention. Here, you’ll rub shoulders with fellow travelers from near and far, both locals and internationals. And let me tell you, there’s never a dull moment. They throw some pretty epic parties, and they even have colorful wigs for guests to wear. It’s all in good fun, but hey, if that’s not your scene, this might not be the place for you.

But don’t worry, they’ve got you covered if privacy is what you’re after. The cottages are spaced perfectly apart, giving you all the peace and seclusion you crave. And when it comes to pricing, they’ve got options for every budget. You can snag a bed in one of their dorms for just R160 per person. If you’re looking for a bit more comfort, you can grab a double room for R650, and it sleeps two people. And if you’re the adventurous type, they even offer camping spots for R100 per person.

So, what are you waiting for? Give them a call at 0833153103 and book your spot at Amapondo Backpacker Lodge. You won’t regret it!

Looking for a fun and family-friendly getaway? Look no further than Umngazi River Bungalows and Spa. With its vibrant and kid-oriented decor, this place is perfect for a laid-back luxury experience. They even have a daily schedule of activities for the little ones! For some extra tranquility, consider booking a honeymoon suite at the river’s edge. It’s a bit pricier, but totally worth it. Prices start at R1145 per person sharing on a dinner, bed, and breakfast basis. To make a reservation, give them a call at 0475641115.

If you’re in the mood for an off-the-grid adventure, head over to The Kraal at Mpande Beach. Located just 20 kilometers from Port St Johns, this place has minimal electricity and no Wi-Fi. It’s the perfect opportunity to disconnect from the world and reconnect with nature. Fall asleep to the sounds of the crashing sea and wake up to the same calming rhythm. Plus, the beach is just minutes away! Choose from double huts for R250 per person, cozy dorms for R160 per person, or camping for R110 per person. Contact them at 0828714964 to make a reservation.

Fuel up here

Welcome to Steve’s Pub & Restaurant! We’ve got you covered with a delicious and affordable breakfast, as well as a variety of South African dishes, including the famous bunny chow. Our place is a popular hang-out for locals, and you’ll love the old-school vibe with our facebrick bar and wooden furnishings.

While we primarily focus on food and drinks, we also have a small gallery section, showcasing some amazing artwork. It adds a unique touch to the overall ambiance of the place.

If you have any questions or would like to make a reservation, feel free to give us a call at 0475641057.

By the way, this story was originally featured in our December 2015 issue of Getaway magazine.

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