The secret south

Winona Griggs

The Southern Mystery

Hey there, welcome to the mystical charm of the South!

Have you ever wondered what makes the southern part of a country so intriguing? Let me take you on a journey through the hidden gems of the South, as we unravel the secrets that make this region truly special.

Picture yourself walking through lush green forests, with sunlight streaming through the leaves, creating a mesmerizing dance of shadows. The air is filled with a symphony of chirping birds and rustling leaves, guiding you deeper into the enchantment.

Now, close your eyes and imagine strolling along the shores of a tranquil lake, where gentle ripples create a captivating rhythm. The stillness of the water mirrors the serene surroundings, creating the perfect setting for introspection and peace.

No trip to the South would be complete without experiencing its vibrant culture and warm hospitality. From lively festivals that celebrate traditions passed down through generations, to mouthwatering delicacies that will tantalize your taste buds, the South offers a rich tapestry of experiences.

As you delve deeper into the heart of the South, you’ll discover a profound connection to nature. Majestic mountains stand tall, commanding awe and reverence. The sound of cascading waterfalls fills the air, cleansing your spirit and filling you with a sense of wonder.

But it’s not just the breathtaking landscapes that make the South so captivating. There’s a certain charm in the slower pace of life, where time seems to take a deep breath. It’s a place where you can truly escape the chaos of the modern world and find solace in simplicity.

As I reflect on the wonders of the South, I am reminded of the saying, “Not all who wander are lost.” So, my friend, I invite you to wander with me into the enigmatic enchantment of the South. Let us unlock the secrets together and create memories that will last a lifetime.

The secret south

When I first discovered it, I was mesmerized by the stunning coastline nestled between the Overberg and the bustling Garden Route. This hidden gem was often overlooked by eager explorers, but I couldn’t resist its allure. As I unlocked the gate and ventured down the dusty limestone path, I felt like I was stepping into a mystical realm of secrets.

The secret south

Welcome to Koensrust Beach Shack, a little piece of heaven tucked away on a farm near Vermaaklikheid. It’s the perfect getaway for you and a group of up to seven friends or maybe just that special someone. Picture yourself in this idyllic setting, surrounded by picturesque turquoise waters where you might catch glimpses of southern right whales and majestic great white sharks.

This stretch of coastline is a true gem, with its mesmerizing lichen-covered rocks and the haunting mist that rolls in from the sea. Explore private nature reserves that most people have never even heard of, and navigate the mysterious and winding rivers that flow through the area. Inhale the delightful scent of buchu carried on the wind, and marvel at the vibrant proteas that blanket the slopes. And let’s not forget the crashing waves that provide a soundtrack to your experience.

Take a moment to appreciate the towering limestone cliffs that guard the coastline and the rock pools teaming with life. These pristine pools have witnessed the presence of Homo sapiens for over 100,000 years, leaving behind traces of their existence in ancient rock art, shell middens, and traditional visvywer fish traps. The Southern Cape is a haven of untamed beauty and captivating mysteries.

Getaway has always been eager to discover the lesser-known parts of our amazing country. From Hermanus to De Hoop Nature Reserve, we’ve covered a lot of ground. However, there’s a corner of the Deep South that often goes unnoticed – the area between the Breede River and Mossel Bay. It’s a hidden gem waiting to be explored. My partner, Tracey Younghusband, and I decided to escape the bustling city and embark on a two-week adventure exploring this beautiful coastline in October. We packed up our sporty gold Renault Duster with cooler bags, a surfboard, and beach toys, and hit the road. Our journey began in Cape Town, taking the N2 east and then, after Swellendam, turning onto the R324 that led us to the mouth of the Breede River.

The secret south

Wow, check out Ystervarkpunt Lighthouse! It’s totally rocking those candy stripes and is nestled within the beautiful Gourikwa Nature Reserve. This lighthouse is South Africa’s newest, having replaced the old aluminum structure from 1964. They finished building it in 2006, and boy does it look stunning! All credit goes to Justin Fox for capturing this amazing image.

While strolling along, my friend Tracey suddenly shouted, “Look, a blue chicken!” Now, Tracey isn’t the best with bird names, so she tends to call all birds chickens. But being the wise bird enthusiast that I am, I quickly corrected her, saying, “Actually, that’s a blue crane.”

Our first stop for the night was the Breede River Lodge in Witsand. It’s a super popular place located on the east bank of the river. The lodge is designed in the stylish Cape Dutch fashion, with charming thatched cottages. The best part is that it has its very own harbor and a fantastic restaurant with an awesome sundowner deck. Imagine sitting there, watching the mesmerizing play of evening light on the river, while boats, birds, and even seals come and go.

Right next to me is the Barry Church. It was built by an important family back in 1849 when Port Beaufort was a thriving harbor for ships owned by the Barrys. Those ships would sail between Cape Town and Malgas on the Breede River. I had the chance to check out their graveyard, which was filled with members of the Barry clan. And that’s where I stumbled upon a monument and a propeller dedicated to the most well-known local ship, the SS Kadie.

The secret south

Getting ready for a barbecue at Koensrust Beach Shack. The photo credit goes to Justin Fox.

Back in the 19th century, the ships of Barry traveled upstream for about 40 kilometers. However, crossing the bar at Witsand was extremely dangerous, especially during strong winds blowing towards the shore. Consequently, many ships were lost in the process. To tackle this issue, the Barrys decided to construct a vessel that could sail and use steam called the Kadie. This ship had a weight of 158 tons. They used it to transport goods from the hold all along the Breede River. Afterward, these goods were transported by wagons to farms located in Swellendam and its surroundings. During the return voyage, the Kadie carried wool, sheep, grain, and passengers back to Cape Town. Captain Semmes and his crew had successfully navigated the river mouth for six years. However, their confidence got the best of them in 1865 when they ran the Kadie aground during a fierce storm. If you go to the beach during low tide, you might spot a part of her boiler among the rocks.

I just discovered the hamlet of Vermaaklikheid, located just a short drive from the quaint town of Witsand. It’s a place that truly knows how to keep its secrets hidden, with a community that cherishes its privacy. As I meandered through the winding country lanes, I stumbled upon charming cottages adorned with thatched roofs and delightful vine pergolas. The sweet aroma of freshly baked bread wafted through the air, coming from the local bakery. I couldn’t help but notice the abundance of fig trees, adding a touch of natural beauty to this serene landscape.

Vermaaklikheid is a place of hidden treasures, with its meandering roads leading to dead ends or gated areas, reminding visitors that privacy is highly valued here. The locals have created a haven away from the noise and commotion of the outside world, where they can escape and find solace.

Unlike bustling cities, Vermaaklikheid lacks a central hub. Instead, it embraces a more laid-back lifestyle, with only a small shop, a bakery, and a seasonal restaurant to cater to the needs of the community. It’s a place where time seems to stand still, and the tranquility of the surroundings provides a welcome escape from the chaos of everyday life.

When I was planning my trip, I discovered an extraordinary place to stay called the House of Eels. It’s not your ordinary hotel; it’s a one-of-a-kind, eccentric house located just a short distance from the river. The architect behind it, Jackson Andrew, had a brilliant vision in mind when he designed this place.

What sets the House of Eels apart is its deep connection with nature. As soon as you step foot inside, you’ll notice the breathtaking sunken garden. It’s a hidden gem that adds an element of surprise and tranquility to the overall experience. But that’s not all; the bedroom is located in a turret, providing a unique vantage point to admire the surroundings.

But what truly makes this place special is the design. Inspired by the flourishing flora, the House of Eels incorporates natural elements in an innovative way. Take a closer look, and you’ll see reeds, bluegum logs, local stone, and even discarded ironwork seamlessly integrated into the architecture.

I can’t wait to stay at the House of Eels and immerse myself in its quirky charm. Being surrounded by nature and staying in such a beautifully crafted house is an experience like no other. If you’re looking for a truly exceptional place to stay, the House of Eels is a hidden gem that shouldn’t be missed.

The secret south

I was amazed as I watched Tracey vigorously exercising during the evening on the Duiwenhoks River. It was such a beautiful sight, with the image of her determination ingrained in my mind. As the darkness settled in, we gathered around the braai pit, where the warm glow illuminated our faces. The air was filled with the aroma of sizzling meat, providing a tempting invitation to indulge.

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As we savored the delicious food, the night came alive with a symphony of sounds. The soft fluttering of bats caught my attention, accompanied by the serenade of the night. I whispered to Tracey, “Did you hear that? It sounds like a fiery-necked chicken.” But, knowing my birds, I corrected her, “It’s a fiery-necked nightjar.”

During our stay, we took to the river, exploring its serene beauty in a canoe and rowing boat. The tannin-rich water caressed our skin as we swam, adding an earthy touch to the experience. Along the river’s bends, we discovered hidden houses nestled among the trees. Each bend had its own surprises, such as rope swings, private jetties, and boats nestled among the reeds.

The riverbanks were a bustling habitat for an array of waterfowl. From the vibrant flash of kingfishers to the graceful flight of spoonbills and herons, it was a natural paradise. This world felt like something out of a Huckleberry Finn story, with the Duiwenhoks River embracing us in its gentle embrace.

As I approached the river mouth, a scene of mystery unfolded before my eyes. A locked gate, barbed wire, and intimidating keep-out signs blocked my path, leaving me standing there in wonder. Beyond the gate, something called Puntjie beckoned, a fabled village full of traditional kapstyl houses, with their unique A-frame thatch that extended all the way to the ground. I imagined the blissful view of the sea on one side and the serene estuary on the other. But alas, no way in. Undeterred, I decided to explore further.

We followed a winding path along the river, traversing a marshy stretch of the Duiwenhoks. And there it was, sitting majestically by the water’s edge – an exquisite Cape Dutch manor house. The entrance was gated, a silent warning to keep out. But my curiosity urged me forward, and I couldn’t resist the allure of uncovering its secrets.

Stepping gingerly forward, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of excitement mixed with trepidation. What stories would this manor house reveal? What hidden wonders lay inside its walls? With each careful step, I embraced the unknown, ready to immerse myself in the history and tales that awaited me behind those imposing gates.

As I drove east on the lime-white road, I couldn’t help but admire how long, straight, and beautiful it was. The only other beings I encountered were tortoises who seemed determined to get squashed. It felt like I was playing a dodgems game, avoiding them as I made my way to Jongensfontein. In the back, my surfboard was making a low whining sound, mirroring my own longing for a good wave. However, the swell was enormous and chaotic, making it impossible to catch a wave at either Jongens or Stilbaai.

Disappointed, we decided to seek some guidance at the tourist-information centre, which also happened to be a museum. We hoped to find out what we could do in the area despite the unfavorable surfing conditions. It turned out to be a stroke of luck because we encountered Annerise Wolmarans, a local resident who had a wealth of knowledge about the area.

The secret south

In the quaint town of Vermaaklikheid sits the historic farm Kleinfontein. It’s a place steeped in rich history and home to one of the area’s most magnificent Cape Dutch homesteads. Nestled beside the Duiwenhoks River, Kleinfontein exudes charm and tranquility.

At the heart of Vermaaklikheid lies the Palinggat homestead, a true testament to the town’s past. Built in 1809, it is the oldest building in the area. Today, this homestead serves as a museum, preserving the heritage and showcasing the remarkable findings discovered at nearby Blombos Cave.

Stepping into the museum, I was immediately captivated by Annerise, our knowledgeable guide. With great enthusiasm, she led us on an intriguing journey through the history of Stilbaai, spanning hundreds of thousands of years. Annerise shared how the excavations at Blombos Cave have provided invaluable insights into the evolution of human culture.

One particular artefact caught my attention – a replica of an engraved piece of ochre. This small fragment, lovingly dubbed the “Rosetta Stone” of this stretch of coast, is believed to bear the earliest known human drawing. The scratches on its surface tell a story that reaches back through time, evoking a sense of wonder and curiosity.

As we neared the end of the tour, Annerise mentioned an additional activity she takes part in – feeding the eels. Intrigued, I eagerly accepted her offer to witness this unique experience.

Kleinfontein is a place where history comes alive, inviting you to discover the secrets of the past while basking in the serene beauty of Vermaaklikheid. It’s a destination that captivates the imagination and leaves you yearning to learn more.

‘Hey there! Guess what? We have a pretty awesome thing going on here – a fountain in the backyard where these amazing longfin eels live. Believe it or not, these eels have been hanging around for a whopping 125 years! Now, get this, these eels can grow up to a massive 1.6 meters and they go on this mind-blowing journey from here, downriver, out to the vast sea, and even all the way to Madagascar to lay their eggs when they hit 25 years old. How cool is that?’

Annerise took us to the side of the building where there was a pond. She told us about an incident where some sneaky otters managed to get in and, I can’t believe I’m saying this, killed the biggest eels. They even went so far as to bite their heads off just to feast on their nutritious brains. Annerise had to put an electric fence to keep them out. Then, she did something that left me in awe – she knelt down and offered a piece of chicken liver at the mouth of a rock overhang. She called out to the eels and gently stroked the water. And you won’t believe what happened next…a mysterious creature with these pale blue eyes emerged from its underwater cave and started nibbling at her fingers. Incredible!’

‘Oh, and get this – she was tempting the eels with chicken! Who would have thought that these eels would be so fond of chicken? It’s just mind-boggling, isn’t it?’ exclaimed Tracey, clearly amazed.

The secret south

In 1849, the Barry Church in Witsand was constructed as a tribute to the adventurous and innovative Breede Valley family. This charming church stands as a reminder of their legacy and accomplishments.

The following day, I found myself craving another surfing adventure. The waves at Skulpies Beach in Stilbaai were in excellent condition – clean, well-formed, and ready to be conquered. Seasoned surfers were preparing themselves, preparing their boards in the parking lot. Inspired, I followed one experienced surfer and positioned myself on an exciting wave, timing my jump perfectly before paddling furiously to surpass the upcoming set of waves. As I glided across the water, I marveled at its warm and green hue, while the waves themselves were a delightfully crisp and hollow sensation. The greatest challenge lay in constantly paddling to remain in the ideal spot and avoid being carried away by the strong current.

That night, we stayed in a beautiful place called Koningsfontein, which sits right by the Goukou River, about six kilometers away from Stilbaai. The farmstead at Koningsfontein is truly wonderful, with its thatched roof, antique furniture, comfy leather sofas, and big windows that offer stunning views of the valley.

The next day, we decided to explore the river using the Koningsfontein motorboat. It was quite an adventure! With every bend in the Goukou, we discovered hidden holiday homes, cozy cottages, and small nature reserves that were completely hidden from public view. It felt like we had stumbled upon a secret world that was nothing like the Cape we were familiar with. As we sailed along, we passed by locals in their beanies and puffer jackets, cruising past us in their motorboats, raising their glasses and offering a toast to our expedition.

The secret south

Hey there! Have you ever heard of the magical village called Puntjie? It’s located on a stunning piece of land at the mouth of the Duiwenhoks River. What makes it even more fascinating are the quaint kapstyl houses with their unique thatch roofs that stretch all the way to the ground. It’s like stepping into a fairytale!

But guess what? Our adventure didn’t stop there. We kept moving eastward, and that’s when we stumbled upon Gourikwa Nature Reserve. This place is absolutely breathtaking! Imagine a rugged and untamed stretch of coastline, surrounded by nature’s beauty. It’s like a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered.

What’s even more intriguing is the history of this place. Back in 1994, it was known as Reins Reserve. Unfortunately, it had to close its doors for a while. But guess what? Two clever businessmen from Joburg came along, gave it a makeover, and voila! It was reborn as Gourikwa Nature Reserve, ready to welcome visitors from all over.

So, if you’re looking for a unique and unforgettable adventure, Puntjie and Gourikwa Nature Reserve should be at the top of your list. They offer a perfect blend of natural wonder and historical charm. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!

When I arrived at the villa suite, I was instantly captivated by its idyllic setting in the fynbos hills, overlooking the main lodge. From there, I could see breathtaking panoramic views of the valley and the vast ocean beyond. As if on cue, a majestic southern right whale emerged from the water, playfully waving its fluke at me. It was a truly magical sight.

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As I explored the surroundings, I couldn’t help but notice the abundant wildlife that called this place home. Eland, grey rhebok, and Cape mountain zebra peacefully grazed among the suites, creating a harmonious scene. To further immerse myself in nature’s beauty, I embarked on a scenic drive along a fynbos loop. Along the way, I encountered various signs that helped me identify the unique plant species that thrive in Gourikwa. This place truly is a paradise for proteas, with vibrant varieties such as lance-leaf, stink-leaf, and Stilbaai pincushion.

During one of my drives, I stumbled upon a heartwarming sight – three adorable Cape fox puppies joyfully playing in the middle of the road. It was a rare and special encounter, as these playful creatures are typically nocturnal. I couldn’t believe my luck at witnessing such an enchanting moment.

Gourikwa is truly a place that surprises and delights at every turn. The natural wonders and incredible wildlife make it a paradise for nature lovers like me. Exploring this hidden gem has been an unforgettable experience, one that I will cherish forever.

That night, as the sun set, my family and I gathered on our deck for a barbeque. To our delight, we were joined by a lively group of zebras and a majestic Cape eagle owl perched on our chimney. The owl’s baby soon joined the wisdom and added to the enchantment of the evening. From the comfort of my bed, I could hear the soft hooting of the owls, a gentle melody that lulled me to sleep. It was truly a magical experience.

The secret south

When I think about Tracey doing her strenuous afternoon workout at House of Eels in Vermaaklikheid, it’s awe-inspiring to witness her dedication and determination. And then, I can’t help but imagine a local acolyte, carrying his stick with reverence, as he makes his way to the baptismal font in Stilbaai. These glimpses into people’s lives remind me how wonderfully diverse and vibrant our world is.

I was captivated by the history encapsulated in the Barry Church in Witsand. Built in 1849, it stands as a testament to the adventurous spirit and entrepreneurial endeavors of the Breede Valley family. It’s incredible to think about all the stories and lives that have been shaped within those walls.

As we continued our journey, we found ourselves cruising along the feral shore to Gouritsmond. The town seemed quiet, like a midweek, off-season escape from reality. But there was a sense of serenity in this solitude.

Following the course of the Gourits River, we crossed a bridge that was flanked by a muddy bank. What caught my attention were the hundreds of pied-starling nests, punctuating the landscape. It was a sight to behold and a reminder of how the natural world weaves its tapestry all around us.

In one of the nesting holes, a spotted eagle owl perched, its eyes gleaming with satisfaction. As tiny birds flitted around, providing an abundant feast, it seemed almost like a luxurious banquet for the owl. Nature’s delicate balance playing out before my eyes.

These moments of connection with the world and its wonders leave me humbled and grateful. They remind me that beauty and intrigue can be found in the simplest of places, if only we take the time to look.

I made my way past the gated entrance of Vleesbaai, a secluded community that keeps mostly to itself. Some streets were off limits to non-residents, and even the path to the beach was blocked by a barrier. I didn’t feel very welcome, so I decided to continue my journey and headed towards Fransmanshoek, a stunning conservation area.

Fransmanshoek offered beautiful walking trails, designated spots for barbecues, and benches overlooking the cliff’s edge, where I could sit and enjoy the crashing waves below. It was a peaceful and serene place to take in the natural beauty.

As luck would have it, a strong summer gale was brewing, and I decided to find shelter for the night in Boggomsbaai. I settled into a cozy cottage, indulging in a game of Scrabble and sipping on delicious red wine until the storm passed. With Mossel Bay visible in the distance, I realized this would be the furthest point of my journey. It was time to start heading back home.

The secret south

Koningsfontein. Image credit: Justin Fox

But there was one final place we wanted to check out: a beach camp at Koensrust, back near Puntjie. It’s accessed via a track that eventually turns into a path, and then descends steeply down a flight of steps to the base of a cliff. The Beach Shack is perched on a ledge above a cove that is completely submerged at high tide. It feels like being on a boat in the middle of the sea. The interiors are simple and white, adorned with driftwood art and sea-egg chains. It’s a fusion of New England, Greece, and the old Cape. This place exudes the charm of Robinson Crusoe in a setting that captivates you.

The Koensrust farm is well-maintained, with annual removal of alien vegetation. It offers excellent hiking trails and a river camp for when the coastal weather becomes fierce. However, we found it almost impossible to leave the Shack and its beach. The long, steep climb back to the car served as an extra incentive to stay where we were.

When I explored the coast at low tide, I couldn’t help but gaze into the rock pools, amazed by the abundance of sea life hidden within. Among the boulders, I even stumbled upon some sleeping seals, their peaceful slumber interrupted by my presence. The beach itself was a sight to behold, with only my footprints marking its untouched sand. Barbecues on the deck were accompanied by the sound of crashing waves and the mesmerizing dance of starlight on the water.

My sleep during those nights was deep and uninterrupted, as if serenaded by the distant booming of the outer reef. Each morning brought with it a new high tide, revealing a fresh array of debris and treasures washed ashore. The entire experience, with its natural rhythms and tranquil atmosphere, felt nothing short of magical.

But eventually, the time came for me to tear myself away from this paradise. Reluctantly, I made my way back to reality, joining the stream of traffic on the N2 highway. Just as we turned onto the road, a magnificent bird of prey swooped across our path.

“Look, a jackal buzzard!” my companion, Tracey, exclaimed in excitement.

‘Hey, look at that one! It kind of reminds me of a chicken,’ I exclaimed.

‘You’re crazy,’ she replied.

The secret south

Plan Your Trip

1. Looking for a great place to stay? Check out the Breede River Lodge in Witsand! It’s a big and popular resort located near the mouth of the river. They’ve got plenty of activities and a water-sport centre for you to enjoy. You can book a Fisherman Cottage that sleeps two people for just R521. Give them a call at 028-537-1631 or visit their website at breederiverlodge.co.za.

2. If you’re in the mood for something more charming and quirky, you should check out the House of Eels located in Vermaaklikheid. This unique home sits on a big plot with a beautiful landscaped garden. It even has its own rowing boat and canoes for guests to use on the river! And if you’re a fan of braais, they have the perfect spot for you – an outdoor fire-pit. The house can accommodate up to 10 people and prices start from R4,250. For reservations, you can call them at 021-790-0972 or visit perfecthideaways.co.za. If you want more options, you can also check out Getaway’s Final Cut on Vermaaklikheid from September 2016.

3. I recently stayed at Koensrust Sea Farm and was thrilled with the range of accommodations they offer. Whether you prefer camping in a tented river camp, staying in a charming kapstyl house, or renting a cozy yard cottage, they have something for everyone. I personally chose the Beach Shack, and it exceeded all my expectations.

The Beach Shack is comprised of four separate buildings, each serving a different purpose. There is a bedroom, a kitchen, a bathroom, and a main lodge. The main lodge is the heart of the Shack, equipped with a comfortable lounge and a dining area. There are also three additional bedrooms in the lodge, making it a perfect choice for large groups or families.

When you stay in the Beach Shack, you have complete freedom and independence. It is a self-catering unit, which means you can prepare your own meals and enjoy the convenience of having your own kitchen. This is especially great if you have dietary restrictions or simply prefer the convenience of cooking your own meals.

During my stay, I was delighted to discover that guests at Koensrust Sea Farm have access to a range of exciting activities. There are beautiful walks that allow you to explore the stunning scenery of the farm. The farm is also home to picturesque beaches where you can relax, soak up the sun, and enjoy the sounds of the ocean. If you’re in the mood for a unique experience, you can visit the river boma and enjoy a cozy bonfire.

The rates at Koensrust Sea Farm are quite reasonable. The Beach Shack starts at R1,650 per night and can accommodate up to eight people. If you prefer a different type of accommodation, there are other options available starting from R830 per night. The affordability of the accommodations, combined with the range of activities offered, makes Koensrust Sea Farm an excellent choice for a memorable and enjoyable getaway.

If you’re interested in booking a stay at Koensrust Sea Farm, you can contact them at 061-273-1906. You can also visit their website, koensrust.co.za, for more information and to check availability.

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4. Hey there! Welcome to Little Rock in Jongensfontein, a super cozy and modern guest house that will blow your mind with its incredible ocean views. Seriously, the couch in the dining room has such an amazing panorama that you could totally lose track of time just staring out at the sea. And guess what? We even have awesome braai facilities and braai packs available for you. How cool is that?

If you’re interested, our rates start from R750 per person sharing, and that includes bed and breakfast. Trust me, it’s totally worth it. And hey, if you’re on a bit of a budget, we’ve got you covered too. Jongensfontein Strandoord has some more affordable options, like camping and self-catering. You can snag a campsite for just R265, or if you prefer something a bit fancier, huts start from R1,210 and can sleep up to five people. Pretty sweet, right? Just give them a call at 028-713-7850 to book.

So, what are you waiting for? Give us a shout at 082-876-2139 or visit our website at littlerockguesthouse.com. I promise you won’t regret it!

5. If you’re looking for a charming, self-catering farmhouse, then you’ll love Koningsfontein. It’s a beautiful thatched farmhouse with antique furniture, kelims, leather sofas, and four-poster beds. When you step inside, you’ll be transported to a world of rustic elegance. With fishing rods, two kayaks, and a motor boat at your disposal, you’ll have plenty of opportunities for outdoor adventure. And when it’s time to relax, you can choose between the front and back braai areas, each offering its own stunning views. If you’re interested, you can book your stay by calling 021-790-0972 or visiting perfecthideaways.co.za. And if you prefer to stay in Stilbaai itself, there are many options available on travelground.com.

6. Gourikwa is a remarkable nature reserve spanning 2,500 hectares. It boasts five kilometers of pristine coastline, where you can soak up the sun and marvel at the beauty of the ocean. The reserve is also home to diverse wildlife, making it a haven for nature lovers. Birdwatching enthusiasts will be delighted by the wide array of bird species that call this place home. And if you’re in the mood for some fishing, you’re in luck. The fishing here is exceptional. There are also walking trails for those who want to explore the reserve on foot, as well as a swimming pool and a putt-putt course for some family fun. The self-catering accommodation starts from R375 per person, and you can make a reservation by calling 087-702-9126 or visiting gourikwa.co.za.

Hey there! Check out these amazing self-catering homes at Sandpiper in Boggomsbaai. There are nine local houses to choose from, and I personally recommend Mosselkraker. It’s a cozy cottage with an open-plan layout and a lovely fireplace. And guess what? It only costs R488 per person if you’re sharing, and it can accommodate up to four people!

But wait, there’s more! When you stay at Sandpiper, you get access to the awesome Sport and Leisure Centre. They have tennis and squash courts, a spa, and even music evenings. So you’ll never run out of things to do! And if Mosselkraker isn’t your cup of tea, don’t worry. There are other houses available too. Just give them a call at 044-699-1204 or visit their website at sandpiper.co.za to find out more.

The secret south

Inverroche. Image credit: Justin Fox

Where to Eat and Buy Supplies

Witsand
If you’re looking for a bit of everything, Nellas se Winkel is the place to go. They sell vetkoek, jewellery, fishing tackle, and more. For delicious pub food, head to Pili Pili Restaurant in the Breede River Lodge (028-537-1018). They have a beautiful deck where you can enjoy sundowners. If you’re in the mood for hearty, no-frills meals, check out The Anchorage (028-537-1330) located right on the beach, or pay a visit to River Breeze (082-381-9330) on the Breede.

Vermaaklikheid area
When it comes to your main supplies, you can find everything you need at the Spar in Heidelberg, Riversdale, or Stilbaai. The bakery in Vermaaklikheid recently reopened after a flood and is now serving customers again. Oulywe deli, on the other hand, will be up and running again soon. You can reach them at 082-689-9660.

I discovered a gem in Stilbaai/Jongensfontein – a little place called Drie Pikkewyne. It’s a great spot to grab a bite to eat if you’re craving some simple and delicious fare like fish, pizzas, or burgers. You can also explore nearby Stilbaai, where you’ll find a few more options to satisfy your hunger. For a taste of Mediterranean cuisine, check out The Press Room Café. They serve up delightful dishes that will transport your taste buds to the shores of the Mediterranean (028-754-2568). If you’re in the mood for fresh and healthy meals, Paradiso Country Kitchen is the place to be. They offer a variety of nutritious options that will leave you feeling satisfied and nourished (082-864-0711).

If you happen to be in Vleesbaai/Boggomsbaai, you won’t find any established restaurants in the area. But don’t worry, you can make the short trip to Mossel Bay, which is just about 25km away. There you’ll find a wide selection of eateries where you can grab a delicious meal and stock up on supplies for your adventures.

The secret south

Hey there! Welcome to the House of Eels. Check out this cool stuff you can do here:

Let’s Get Started

If you’re in Witsand, you can easily rent canoes and SUPs at Breede River Lodge. They even offer kitesurfing lessons during the season. You can find more info at breederiverlodge.co.za.

Now, let’s talk about fishing. This place is a paradise for fishing enthusiasts. You can cast your line in the rivers, estuaries, and even the ocean. Some popular catches include elf, sand steenbras, spotted grunter, Cape stumpnose, galjoen, garrick, musselcracker, and mullet. Just make sure to get the necessary permits from your local post office.

If you’re into surfing, you’re in for a treat. Jongensfontein and Stilbaai are the places to be. Jongensfontein offers a right-hand reef break, perfect for smaller conditions. Stilbaai, on the other hand, has a right-hand point break that needs a solid swell to really kick off. But don’t worry, if you’re not up for the challenge, there are some milder options near the harbor wall. And if you’re feeling adventurous, Vleesbaai is a legendary spot. It only comes alive about 10 times a year, but when it does, it needs a massive swell. So, keep an eye out for that!

Hey, guess what? I’ve got something really cool to tell you! Did you know that there are these incredible ancient fish traps at Rooikoppe in Stilbaai, and other places along the coast? These traps are like walls made of stone, and they were used by the Khoisan people many years ago. Can you believe they might be up to 3,000 years old? It’s amazing to think about!

If you’re interested in history and all that jazz, you should definitely check out the Stilbaai museum. They’ve got so much cool stuff there, like information about the town, its history, ethnohistory, rock art, and archaeology. And here’s the really exciting part – every day from Monday to Saturday, at 11am, you can actually watch the eels being fed! How awesome is that?

So, if you’re in the mood for an adventure and want to learn some cool things, these are definitely places you should put on your to-do list. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!

The secret south

Stilbaai is home to some incredible attractions. One of my favorite places is Tuin-op-die-Brak, a fynbos park with over 240 different plant species. You can explore the park and take in the beautiful scenery while learning about the unique plants that call this place home. If you’re in the mood for some outdoor adventure, Stilbaai has three nature reserves with walking trails: Pauline Bohnen, Geelkrans, and Skulpiesbaai. These reserves offer a chance to immerse yourself in nature and discover the hidden gems of the area. If you’re looking for something a little different, why not visit the Inverroche distillery? This stylish distillery offers gin tastings and tours, where you can sample their fynbos-infused products, including gin-flavored ice cream. It’s a unique experience that shouldn’t be missed! Another great option is the Kasselshoop Cheese Farm, where you can indulge in a cheese pairing with wine, chocolate, and more. It’s the perfect way to treat yourself and enjoy the flavors of Stilbaai. Make sure to check out their website for more details. Stilbaai has so much to offer, from natural beauty to culinary delights. So why not plan a visit and discover the wonders of this incredible town for yourself?

The walks and braai spots in the Fransmanshoek peninsula near Vleesbaai are absolutely fantastic. If you’re up for a challenge, you can also test your skills driving on the Vleesbaai 4×4 Dune Route at the Misgunst farm. It costs R400 per vehicle and you can reach them at 044-699-1107. Check out their website at 4x4ineden.co.za.

I’m excited to share that this article was originally featured in the December 2019 edition of Getaway magazine. If you’re interested, you can grab a copy and read more about it. Just keep in mind that all the prices mentioned were accurate at the time of publication, but they might have changed since then. It’s always a good idea to double-check with the establishment before making any bookings or purchases.

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