The Incredible Adventure of the Road to Hell

Imagine this: I’m trudging down a steep valley with my back aching and struggling to catch my breath. The donkeys I’m leading are also feeling the strain, one of them even slipping for a moment before recovering. It’s a grueling journey spanning almost two whole days, as we make our way from home to the nearest civilization. And to top it all off, the only way to get there is on the backs of these tough donkeys and horses.

They say the road to Hell isn’t easy, and boy, are they right.

A while back, a brave group of South Africans embarked on a mission to create their own little paradise in the middle of nowhere. After 130 years of resilience, all but two people decided to bid farewell to this place. And let me tell you, this secluded corner they chose is not only exceptionally beautiful, but also incredibly hard to reach. Welcome to Gamkaskloof, folks.

Earlier this year, I teamed up with CapeNature to showcase some of their incredibly wild getaways in our country. This time, we ventured into the Gamkaskloof within the Swartberg Nature Reserve.

Getting to Gamkaskloof

Gamkaskloof, also known as ‘Die Hel/The Hell,’ is situated at the very end of a breathtaking series of mountain passes and backroads that lead you to this secluded spot. It earned the name “Die Hel” because the kloof is quite challenging to reach, with steep inclines that inspired its Dutch/Afrikaans name, “helling.” It’s best to have a 4×4 or a high-clearance 4×2 vehicle on hand for the rugged drive.

I’ve been hearing and reading stories about the kloof for a long time now. People always talk about it with such wonder because of its natural beauty. But they also mention how hard it is to get there. I was worried that my car wouldn’t be able to handle it, so I decided to call Land Rover Cape Town and see if they could help me out. Luckily, they were willing to lend me a hand. On the day of our trip, they had a red Range Rover Velar waiting for us. Finally, I had a vehicle that could take me to Die Hel, with three other travel writers along for the ride.

One of our team members nicknamed the Velar the Scarlet Rover, and for good reason. It handled the roads with ease, almost like it was made for them. This is definitely the kind of vehicle you want by your side when you’re heading to The Hell and back.

Image credit: Jared Ruttenberg

As soon as Prince Albert is behind me, the legendary Swartberg Pass starts to climb. The beauty of this place is so incredible that it leaves me speechless around every corner. But once I veer off the Swartberg Pass, it takes about two hours of driving through mountains covered in fynbos to reach Gamkaskloof.

The Many Layers of History

Looking back at the past, evidence from archaeological digs has shown that the earliest people to live in this area were the Early Stone Age people, who settled here over 500,000 years ago. But the modern history of Gamkakloof really took shape in 1830, when the first Dutch farmers arrived and decided to make a living in this valley. Back then, there was no road leading to the valley, so they had to make a treacherous journey on foot or with the help of donkeys. Despite the challenges, a small community formed and thrived for 130 years, reaching a peak population of 120 people. It wasn’t until 1960 that a road was finally built, making it easier for the outside world to access the valley.

When it came, it made it a whole lot easier for us to venture into the outside world. And let me tell you, the temptation of community, churches, schools, and all those things, soon surpassed our desire to stay in the valley. Plus, you know what made it worse? There was this really bad drought in the 1970s that hit us hard.

As you can imagine, almost everyone packed up and left, except for one brave family. Lucky for us, though, the kloof was declared a National Heritage Site in 1997. And then in 2000, CapeNature teamed up with a bunch of heritage organizations to fix up the original farmhouses and turn them into self-catering rentals. Now, they’ve got about ten of these places open to the public.

The best part? It’s so isolated out there that you can totally disconnect from the rest of the world. Seriously, there’s no cell service. It’s like a total detox from all things digital. I’d recommend bringing some books and definitely don’t forget your hiking boots.

Image credit: Jared Ruttenberg

Let’s go: Want to explore the beautiful Grootkloof Trail? It’s a 6km path that offers breathtaking scenery and serves as a perfect introduction to the kloof. Don’t worry if you’re new to this; they have a field guide at the information center that will give you all the knowledge you need about the wildlife, plants, rocks, and other fascinating discoveries you’ll encounter along the way. It’s like getting a mini-education while enjoying nature’s wonders. Oh, and if you’re up for a shorter walk, the Koningsgat trail is only 2.8km and gives you a chance to relax halfway at the widest part of the Gamkaskloof River. Pro tip: Pack your swimsuit if you’re visiting in summer, as it’s the perfect spot to take a refreshing dip or just relax and soak up the sun.

Important things to remember: Before you hop in your car to head out, make sure you have enough fuel for the trip. There’s a small store in the valley, but it’s better to be prepared. Speaking of the store, they are known for their amazing fig jam, so be sure to try some while you’re there. It’s heavenly, trust me.

How much will it cost: If you want to stay overnight, I recommend the Koot Kordier cottage. It’s a cozy six-sleeper with one of the most stunning views you’ll ever see. The rates range from R1300 per night for 1-4 persons during peak season and R800 per night during off-peak season. If you have more than four people, it’s an additional R240 per person per night, with a maximum of six people. If you prefer camping, there are options available in the area starting from R150 per person per night.

Contact information: If you have any questions or want to make reservations, you can reach out to CapeNature directly or book online at capenature.co.za. They’ll be more than happy to assist you with anything you need.