The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

Winona Griggs

The magnificent leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park

Let’s dive into the enchanting world of the leatherback turtles and discover their extraordinary existence in iSimangaliso Wetland Park. These incredible creatures have captured the hearts of many, and their presence in this natural wonder is truly awe-inspiring.

Imagine being in the presence of a creature that has existed for millions of years, enduring the tests of time and adapting to the ever-changing world. The leatherback turtle, known for its resilience, holds the key to unlocking the secrets of our planet’s history.

When I observe these extraordinary turtles, I can’t help but be filled with wonder and curiosity. How did they evolve to become the largest of all sea turtles? How do they navigate across vast oceans and return to the exact beach where they were born? It’s an incredible feat that I can’t help but admire.

These magnificent creatures face many challenges in their journey through life. Pollution, climate change, and habitat loss all pose significant threats to their survival. And yet, they persevere, reminding us of the importance of resilience and adaptation in the face of adversity.

As I stand on the shores of iSimangaliso Wetland Park, I can’t help but feel a sense of responsibility. It is up to us to protect and preserve the habitats that these turtles rely on. Through our actions, we can ensure that future generations will get to witness the wonder of the leatherback turtles for themselves.

So, if you find yourself in the presence of these majestic creatures, take a moment to appreciate the beauty and complexity of their existence. Remember that we are all connected in this intricate web of life, and it is our duty to protect and cherish every living being that calls our planet home.

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

Can you believe it? I bet you thought humans have been around for a long time, right? Well, let me tell you something fascinating. There’s a creature called Dermochelys coriacea that has been around for over 100 million years. Yep, you heard that right! And today, I want to talk to you about this incredible creature, the leatherback turtle.

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

The stunning beaches of iSimangaliso Wetland Park are bordered by the inviting Indian Ocean and lush, green dunes adorned with tropical forests.

I was a bit uncomfortable. There were six of us huddled on the sandy shore, observing a majestic lady giving birth under the enchanting glow of a full moon. This amazing creature was over two meters long, weighed many hundreds of kilograms, and possessed a beak so sharp it could easily sever my fingers. Yet, I couldn’t help feeling slightly awkward as I peered at her backside. Suddenly, the eggs came tumbling out, dropping into the deep hole she had carefully excavated in the secluded beach of iSimangaliso Wetland Park.

Hey there! Let’s talk about the incredible miracle of birth, whether it’s the birth of an animal, a plant, or even an insect. It’s truly something sacred and awe-inspiring, wouldn’t you agree? Despite that, we humans can’t help but be curious creatures. We just can’t resist taking a peek.

Suddenly, it happened. Plop, plop, plop. A bunch of eggs came tumbling out from behind the lady. It was quite a sight to behold. You know, she seemed so calm and collected, as if she had done this countless times before. Perhaps she had even had our distant ancestors peering at her from the same angle. Either way, she couldn’t have cared less. Plop, plop, plop. The eggs just kept coming. It was like she was on a roll!

I have to admit, feeling a bit embarrassed, was all but inevitable. But then again, why would she be bothered by a group of us humans, who had only recently evolved, watching this miraculous event?

Imagine this: Leatherback turtles, those magnificent creatures that have been around for over 100 million years, are like the ultimate guardians of our planet. They’ve stood the test of time, surpassing even the dinosaurs in their ancient lineage. While humans have been around for a mere blink of an eye in comparison, these turtles have witnessed the rise and fall of countless species.

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

When it comes to the beach at Bhanga Nek near Kosi Bay, I see a captivating sight. The coastal forest and dunes gracefully meet the vast expanse of the Indian Ocean. It’s truly a remarkable scene.

As I stand here, I can’t help but ponder the incredible journey of the leatherback turtles. These majestic creatures have voyaged across the open seas for centuries, encountering countless challenges along the way. From rapid climate changes to the rise and fall of ice ages, from the shifting continents to cataclysmic events like the impact of a colossal meteor 65 million years ago.

That meteor brought devastation upon Earth, setting everything ablaze and annihilating a staggering 75 percent of all living beings, including the formidable dinosaurs. Despite the chaos and destruction, the leatherback turtles clung to survival. They triumphed over primal terrors that surpass the mere presence of humans observing their nesting rituals.

These wise creatures possess ancient genetic wisdom that assures them they are safe. But is that truly the case? Are they impervious to the perils that lie in wait?

Can you believe it? These incredible creatures, known as leatherback turtles, are in serious trouble. They’re so close to extinction, and it’s not because they’ve reached the end of their natural lifespan. You see, they have a fatal weakness – our plastic bags. These turtles mistake them for delicious jellyfish, but when they gobble them up, they can’t digest them and end up choking and drowning.

But that’s not all. Our pollution poses another threat to them. These turtles are extremely sensitive to it, and it’s taking a toll on their health. And if that wasn’t enough, they also face a risk from fishing boats. These giant sea creatures often get caught in long lines and nets and are unable to escape. It’s a tragic end for these majestic turtles.

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But that’s not all. The places where they can safely lay their eggs are rapidly disappearing. Most of the once-pristine beaches are now filled with vehicles, people, and unchecked development. These intrusions destroy the turtles’ eggs and hatchlings, leaving them with little hope for survival.

It’s truly devastating to witness how these unique creatures, who once roamed our oceans freely, are now struggling to survive. We must take action before it’s too late. We need to reduce our plastic waste, clean up our oceans, and protect their habitats. If we don’t, we’ll lose these incredible creatures forever.

Did you know that leatherback turtles, which have been around for 100 million years, are disappearing? It’s true, and unfortunately, we humans are to blame. We’re not hunting them for food or anything like that – apparently, their flesh is considered too oily. No, the reason these amazing creatures are vanishing is simply because we don’t really seem to care. And that’s a real shame, just like the disappearance of other incredible animals like rhinos, leopards, penguins, bees, and vultures.

Leatherback turtles are truly fascinating. They’ve been around much longer than we have, and they deserve our utmost respect. These incredible creatures are one of the largest reptile species in the world and can live up to an impressive 90 years. The biggest leatherback turtle ever recorded weighed over 900 kilograms, which is even heavier than some of the largest crocodiles!

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

When I joined a turtle tour guided by Sabelo Mngomezulu, I was in for an incredible experience. We were able to witness a magical event – a leatherback turtle laying its eggs right on the beach near Cape Vidal.

As I crouched down to capture a photo, Sabelo informed us that our magnificent lady weighed approximately 400 kilograms. At first glance, this may seem insignificant, but don’t underestimate its significance. That weight is equivalent to that of four robust rugby players combined! (Sabelo also shared an anecdote about how the strength of a leatherback turtle once dragged four researchers along the beach as it returned to the sea after nesting.)

When I first saw her, I couldn’t help but notice how tall her back was. It reached about a meter off the ground. Unlike other turtles that have hard shells, Dermochelys coriacea has a unique leather-like carapace. It’s quite fascinating!

Her tracks on the beach were enormous, measuring about three meters wide. And I couldn’t believe the size of her head – it was as big as a large man’s head, complete with a razor-sharp beak. It’s amazing how nature creates such incredible creatures.

Turtles are remarkable swimmers. They are constantly on the move, tirelessly gliding through the ocean waves with their streamlined bodies. It’s almost like they never stop. They effortlessly cover vast distances over the course of just a few months, swimming thousands of kilometers across the open seas. It’s truly impressive!

These turtles have another impressive ability – they can stay underwater for up to an hour. They dive to depths of over 1000 meters, where it’s completely dark. Can you imagine? They’re down there hunting down and devouring huge jellyfish, like no other large creature can. Only sperm whales and beaked whales can go that deep. It’s mind-boggling!

Turtles are incredible creatures. Did you know they are the fastest reptiles, capable of swimming at speeds up to 35 kilometers per hour? It’s mind-boggling! And what’s even more fascinating is that turtles can regulate their own body heat, which is quite rare among reptiles. In fact, researchers have discovered that some turtles can have a core body temperature 18 degrees Celsius higher than the water they’re in. Talk about being adaptable!

But let me tell you about a truly extraordinary turtle – the leatherback. While male leatherbacks spend their entire lives in the water, females have an adventurous side. They embark on epic journeys, swimming all the way around the world and returning to the very same beach where they were hatched, even after several decades. Talk about a top-notch inner GPS! These remarkable creatures have an incredible memory and impeccable navigational skills.

It seems that leatherbacks have a special place in their hearts for the protected beaches of iSimangaliso on the north-east coast of South Africa. They have a genuine fondness for the 220 kilometers of sandy paradise there. Every year, like clockwork, around November and December, around 70 female leatherbacks emerge from the ocean and laboriously make their way to the shore to lay their eggs in the safety of the sand. It’s truly a sight to behold.

In January and February, hundreds of small hatchlings come out of their nests and start their journey towards the sea. It’s an exciting time for them, but also a dangerous one. As they make their way down the beach, they have to be careful not to become prey for honey badgers, kelp gulls, ghost crabs, and raptors like fish eagles. These predators are always on the lookout for an easy meal. And if the hatchlings manage to reach the water, they still have to deal with other threats like game fish and sharks.

But survival doesn’t get any easier for leatherback turtles even after they make it to the sea. They face a new set of challenges caused by humans. Fishing activities, plastic pollution, and other forms of pollution all pose a threat to these amazing creatures. Research has shown that out of the 700 eggs laid by a female leatherback turtle each year, only about 480 hatchlings will make it out of their nests, and only one will survive to adulthood. So when you see a fully grown leatherback turtle, like the 400-kilogram lady right in front of us, you’re witnessing a true survivor. It’s a testament to the strength and resilience of these creatures.

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

Once upon a time, the western shores of Lake St Lucia wore a cloak of exotic tree plantations. It’s hard to imagine that just twenty years ago, this biodiverse haven was almost wiped out. Mining companies sought to extract ilmenite, a mineral crucial for producing titanium, from the shoreline and forested dunes. However, this dark sand is not only a valuable resource but also plays a vital role in the survival of the region’s turtles.

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But fortunately, through decades of restoration and rehabilitation efforts, the iSimangaliso Wetland Park has been transformed into a paradise for not only leatherbacks but four other species of turtles as well. This World Heritage Site provides sanctuary to more than 3,000 different animals, ensuring their protection amid the diverse grasslands, pans, and lakes that have been regenerated.

This remarkable turnaround is a testament to the importance of preservation and the power of human dedication. By safeguarding these ecosystems, we secure the future of these magnificent creatures and celebrate the resiliency of nature.

‘The ilmenite in the sands is crucial,’ turtle researcher Dr. Ronel Nel explained. ‘You see, the turtles don’t have sex chromosomes, so their sex is determined by the temperature at which they hatch. If it’s above 29 degrees Celsius, they become females, and if it’s below that, they become males. Without the warmth provided by the ilmenite, most of the hatchlings would be males, which would ultimately lead to the extinction of the population.’ Thankfully, there was a strong public opposition to the mining plans, and after years of campaigning by conservationists and influential figures like former president Nelson Mandela, the iSimangaliso World Heritage site was established, permanently prohibiting any mining activities.’

I watched in awe as the turtles went about their business of laying eggs, undisturbed by the occasional human tourists who came to witness this marvel of nature. It was as if the turtles had a silent agreement with us, allowing us to observe their sacred ritual from a distance.

Our presence didn’t seem to bother the turtles at all. They carried on with their ancient dance, completely unfazed by our curious eyes and excited whispers. It was as if they understood that we were merely spectators in their world, temporary visitors witnessing a fragment of their extraordinary lives.

And why would these majestic creatures be concerned with the likes of us? They had been roaming the oceans long before we stumbled upon this land. They possessed a wisdom and grace that surpassed our own, as if they held the secrets of the universe within their ancient shells.

As I stood there, watching the turtles go about their timeless routine, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe and humility. In their presence, I was reminded of how small and insignificant we truly are in the grand scheme of things. Our trivial worries and obsessions seemed to fade away, replaced by a deep appreciation for the world beyond our human confines.

In that moment, I realized that these turtles were more than just fascinating creatures. They were living reminders of the interconnectedness of all life on Earth. They symbolized the delicate balance of nature, and our role as stewards of this planet.

As I left the beach that day, I carried with me a newfound respect for these ancient beings. I vowed to do my part in protecting their fragile habitats and ensuring that future generations would be able to witness the beauty and majesty of the sea turtles.

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

From the top of the lush dunes on the eastern shores, you can catch a breathtaking view of Lake St. Lucia.

What makes iSimangaliso Wetland Park so unique?

iSimangaliso, which means ‘miracle and wonder’ in isiZulu, is an incredibly significant and stunning protected area in South Africa. It holds the distinction of being the country’s first World Heritage Site, receiving this honor in 1999 due to its exceptional features like ecological processes, natural wonders, scenic splendor, rich biodiversity, and endangered species.

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

Did you know that the park I’m talking about has a huge number of hippos? And you won’t believe it, but these magnificent creatures are often seen in the Kosi Bay lakes in the northern part of the park!

Let me tell you a bit more about this amazing place. It used to be called the Greater St Lucia Wetlands Park, but now it goes by a different name. This massive piece of land covers an area of 332,000 hectares, making it the second-largest protected area in the whole country! Can you imagine that? The only place that beats it in size is the famous Kruger National Park. And that’s not all – there’s also an 85,000-hectare conservation area just off the coast. This area includes the St Lucia and Maputaland Marine Protected Areas. Pretty cool, right?

At iSimangaliso, you’ll discover an incredible variety of animal species, more than any other protected area in Southern Africa. Two main factors contribute to this abundance: the tropical climate and the diverse range of habitats. This sanctuary is home to breathtaking wonders like Indian Ocean coral reefs, long sandy beaches, coastal dune forests, South Africa’s largest estuary (Lake St Lucia), the country’s biggest freshwater lake (Lake Sibaya), the remarkable coastal lake system of Kosi Bay, and vast expanses of subtropical bushveld in Mkhuze.

If you plan your visit well, you can experience a true adventure. Imagine starting your day by scuba-diving amidst a vibrant kaleidoscope of tropical fish in Sodwana Bay. By lunchtime, you could be taking awe-inspiring photographs of majestic white rhinos in Mkhuze Game Reserve. And in the evening, witness the awe-inspiring sight of rare loggerhead and leatherback turtles laying their precious eggs on the shores of Kosi Bay.

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

On Lake St Lucia in southern iSimangaliso, you’ll often spot fish eagles soaring high above.

As Nelson Mandela wisely said, ‘iSimangaliso must be the only place on Earth where the rhinoceros, the oldest land mammal, and the elephant, the world’s largest terrestrial mammal, live in harmony with the coelacanth, the world’s oldest fish, and the whale, the world’s largest marine mammal.

Planning your iSimangaliso adventure

How to get there

If you’re coming from Durban, drive north on the N2 for approximately 200km until you reach the R618. Take a right turn towards St Lucia. Follow McKenzie Street, which can be found east of the town of St Lucia, and it will lead you to the park entrance.

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The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

The forests near Kosi Bay are fantastic places for birdwatching, especially if you’re hoping to catch a glimpse of palm-nut vultures.

Important things to know

The park is divided into 10 different sections: Kosi Bay, Coastal Forest, Lake Sibaya, Sodwana Bay, Mkhuze, False Bay, Western Shores, Lake St Lucia, Eastern Shores, and Maphelane. Turtles can be spotted along the beaches of Kosi Bay, Coastal Forest, and Eastern Shores.

When is the best time for a turtle tour?

The summer months, between October and March, are the optimal time to observe turtles. This is when adult female turtles come ashore to lay their eggs. The hatchlings typically emerge between January and April. To visit the beaches at night, you must be accompanied by a licensed guide. This rule is in place to protect the turtles and their nesting sites. It’s one of the reasons why iSimangaliso is regarded as a top nesting site worldwide.

So, you’re interested in seeing turtles? Well, let me tell you, it’s not a 100% guarantee, but your odds are pretty good if you plan your visit between December and February. You see, those are the months when the turtles come out of the ocean to lay their eggs. Cool, huh?

Now, here’s the thing – the tours actually happen at night. Yeah, that’s right, you’re going to be exploring in the dark! But don’t worry, I’ve got some tips for you. First off, make sure you bring a head torch. Trust me, you’re going to need it. And don’t forget your trusty camera, equipped with a flash. You might want to snap a shot or two of these amazing creatures. Oh, and remember to wear long pants and bring a jacket or jersey. Nights can get a bit chilly, you know?

Now, let me tell you about some of the tour operators who can take you on this magical journey:

  • Thompsons Africa Tours & Safaris: For R930 per person, you’ll get a five-hour drive and dinner on the beach. Call them at 0355901584.
  • Shoreline: These guys charge R950 per person. In return, you’ll have a five-hour drive and dinner on the beach. Their contact number is 0355901555.
  • Ufudu Turtle Tours: Located in Sodwana Bay, they offer a four-hour drive for R650 per person. Give them a call and you’ll be all set!

If you’re looking to explore the beautiful beaches near Bhanga Nek in Kosi Bay, you can count on the knowledgeable community guides from the area. They can take you there for only R140 per person. Get in touch with any of these guides:

  • Thembile Ngubane: Tel 0732280934
  • Simangaliso Mageba: Tel 0727252738
  • Shadrack Mathenjwa: Tel 0826384488
  • Sthembiso Mthembu: Tel 0711546623

Where to stay in iSimangaliso

If you’re looking for a comfortable and affordable place to stay in iSimangaliso, Hornbill House is a great choice. It’s located in the heart of St Lucia town and offers en-suite rooms. You can enjoy a delicious breakfast on the garden-facing deck. The rates start from R550 per person. The owner and manager, Kian Barker, is a well-known naturalist and accredited guide to iSimangaliso. He also organizes various game-drive options in the park, including an unforgettable overnight turtle tour to Kosi Bay, with accommodation at Bhanga Nek cottages (R2450 per person, all meals included).

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

In the iSimangaliso coastal forest reserve, you’ll find Rocktail Bay Beach Camp. Nestled near Manzengwenya Beach, this camp offers a unique experience. With rooms connected by boardwalks, it’s about a 20-minute walk to reach the beach.

This exceptional lodge strikes a perfect balance between a relaxed, upscale backpacker atmosphere and comfortable accommodations. You’ll be delighted by the beautiful rooms, outstanding service, and delicious food. And the best part? All-inclusive rates start at just R2531 per person sharing.

If you’re a nature enthusiast, you won’t want to miss out on the opportunity to arrange a turtle tour. For just R256 per person (with a minimum of two people), you can witness these incredible creatures in their natural habitat.

Hey there! Let me tell you about Thonga Beach Lodge, one of the incredible places in the Isibindi group. They also have another fantastic lodge called Kosi Forest Lodge in this area. Thonga is located right on the dunes, surrounded by dense native forest. The best part? Each rondavel (a traditional round house) is positioned nicely apart for your privacy, offering stunning views of the sea. And guess what? A wooden walkway connects them all.

Believe me when I say, being at Thonga is truly something special. Not only is the location breathtaking, but the food is also absolutely delicious. Starting from R2990 per person, you get to enjoy all your meals and even some fun activities. If you’re up for it, you have the option to go on turtle tours for an additional R540 per person. It’s definitely worth it!

The leatherback turtles of iSimangaliso Wetland Park MzansiBride

If you’re staying at Thonga Beach Lodge, make sure to take a paddle on Lake Sibaya. How cool would it be to glide across the water?

Kosi Forest Lodge can be found in the park’s northern area, close to Kosi Bay. The suites there are really neat – they have thatched roofs and tents, and the best part is the outdoor bathrooms. Imagine taking a bath or shower under the stars!

You won’t run out of things to do at Kosi Forest Lodge. You could join a guided canoe ride or go hiking in the forest. And here’s some good news – when you book a stay, all your meals are included. The price is R1645 per person, and that covers meals, lake canoeing, Raffia forest walks, and the chance to watch the sun go down. Oh, and if you’re interested, you can also go on a turtle tour for R655 per person.

Remember, the details in this article were accurate in June 2015. But keep in mind that prices might have changed. It’s always a good idea to double-check with the lodge or tour operator before you travel.

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