The Joy of Taking the Scenic Route from Cape Town to Mossel Bay

Let me tell you about a stretch of road that, in my opinion, is not the most pleasant I’ve ever experienced. It’s the N2 highway between the Hermanus turn-off and Mossel Bay, and there may be worse stretches out there, but this one takes the cake. Starting from Cape Town, you get to enjoy the beautiful views of False Bay. The road then winds through the mountains, passing by the outskirts of Grabouw. But once you pass the Hermanus turnoff, it’s nothing but a vast desert of dusty fields and scorching heat. It feels like a never-ending three-hour journey that you just want to get through, while keeping your expenses on fuel and traffic fines to a minimum.

After years of enduring the stressful drive, I decided to venture into the unknown and see if there’s something worthwhile to be found along the way. After traveling about 160 kilometers away from the imposing Table Mountain, I came across a quaint little town called Riviersonderend. It’s the perfect spot to take a break. Right in the heart of the town, just off the N2, I stumbled upon a charming bakery called Ou Meul. This hidden gem offers delicious pies and coffee. Now, I have to admit that I’m quite picky when it comes to coffee and pie, but I was pleasantly surprised. The bobotie pie and flat-white coffee exceeded my expectations.

Just before I reached Swellendam, I decided to take a different route. I turned off the N2 and drove down a gravel road toward Malgas. Along the way, I had an incredible experience crossing the Breede River on a pontoon. It was fascinating to learn that this pontoon is the last hand-operated one in all of South Africa.

After crossing the river, I continued on to Witsand. I had the pleasure of staying at the lovely Breede River Lodge, which is located right at the river mouth. If you stay there, make sure to request a room with a view of the marina. These rooms are so close to the water that you could almost jump in and swim straight to your bed!

During my stay, I had a fantastic time braaing a huge cob on a spit. As I enjoyed my meal, I had the opportunity to listen to the locals’ stories. They shared tales of peaceful Zambezi sharks in the river, although I must admit, I took their stories with a grain of braai salt. Nonetheless, it was a memorable experience.

The following day, I hopped in my car and headed towards Vermaaklikheid. It was a picturesque drive, filled with stunning views of the countryside. When I arrived at the post office to buy fishing permits, I had the pleasure of meeting a man named Andries Grootlieg. Andries was quite the character, known for his tall tales. But despite his reputation, he was friendly and helpful. After getting our fishing permits, I decided to try my luck at the river. Andries gave me some tips and wished me good luck.

As I cast my line into the water and waited patiently, I couldn’t help but soak in the peaceful atmosphere. The river was serene, with the sound of flowing water and chirping birds providing a soothing soundtrack. It felt like a magical place, full of tranquility and natural beauty.

After an hour of fishing, I finally caught something worth cooking for a braai. I was thrilled with my success and couldn’t wait to taste the delicious fish.

With dusk approaching, I packed up my gear and made my way to my accommodation for the night, Oshoek River Farm. Andries had mentioned that Princess Diana once stayed there, adding an air of prestige to the place. As I settled into my room, I couldn’t help but feel connected to the history and stories that surrounded this charming place.

As I lay in bed, I reflected on the day’s adventures. Vermaaklikheid had exceeded my expectations, offering not only amazing fishing opportunities but also a sense of wonder and tranquility. I felt grateful to have experienced this hidden gem and knew I would carry the memories with me for years to come.

Travelling the back roads can be risky because sometimes you wake up in a house with no food nearby. You’re left with an empty kitchen and no shops in sight. No coffee, no breakfast. But I found a solution. I headed straight to a nearby farm where I enjoyed a delicious breakfast of prickly pears. They were ripe and fresh, straight from the tree, and I had the farmer’s blessing to enjoy them.

After a satisfying morning meal, it was time for lunch. I went to Heuningnesbaai near Jongensfontein and personally collected some alikreukel, which are giant periwinkles. These little treasures were found in the sea and then cooked in a traditional potjie. It was a truly unique and tasty experience.

As the day drew to a close, I decided to have some fun on the water. I went water-skiing on the Goukou River in Stilbaai. It was the perfect way to end the day, with the sun setting in the distance and the river beneath me.

So, I’m in Stilbaai, and it’s just an hour’s drive from Mossel Bay. I woke up at 05h30 in the morning all ready to go surfing before hitting the road. And let me tell you, it was an awesome start to the day. But you know what? The day just kept getting better and better. I spent the rest of the day sipping on some delicious gin at this awesome place called Inverroche. They make this gin that’s infused with fynbos and let me tell you, it’s top-notch. Oh, and did I mention that it also keeps the mosquitoes away? It was so good that I ended up staying in Stilbaai for another night.

But the journey didn’t end there. Nope, the next day I had lunch in Mossel Bay at this place called Kaai 4 Braai Restaurant. It’s this cool bushveld lapa right on the edge of the ocean. And you know what? It was the perfect way to wrap up my road trip. I mean, who says road trips have to be boring? Not me! This trip taught me that the best part of a road trip isn’t the beginning or the end, it’s all the stuff that happens in between.