Welcome to St Helena: A Land of Saints

When I think about St Helena, the first thing that comes to mind is its reputation as a secluded haven. Its remoteness is both a blessing and a challenge, for it gives St Helena a unique charm while posing logistical hurdles for travelers like me. But let me tell you, the journey is absolutely worth it. You won’t find paradise in guidebooks, but you will find it here, tucked away in this hidden jewel of the Atlantic.

So why choose St Helena amid the vast array of travel destinations? Well, it’s simple. St Helena beckons to those who seek a sense of serenity and a glimpse into the secrets of history. As you step foot on this island, you become part of something grand, something larger than yourself.

One of the key reasons people are drawn to St Helena is its rich spiritual heritage. The island is known as the “Valley of the Saints,” with a longstanding reputation as a spiritual sanctuary. Here, history and faith intertwine, forming a tapestry of legends and traditions that have been passed down through generations. Stepping into this world feels like entering a time capsule, where echoes of the past whisper in every corner.

The Wonder of St Helena

St Helena is a land of wonders waiting to be discovered. From the towering cliffs that plunge into the azure sea to the lush valleys that hide an abundance of wildlife, this island is a hidden treasure trove of natural beauty. Picture yourself standing on the edge of a cliff, feeling the salty breeze against your skin and gazing out into the endless expanse of the Atlantic Ocean. Here, you are free to lose yourself in the magnificence of nature.

But it’s not just the natural wonders that make St Helena exceptional; it’s also the warmth and hospitality of the people who call this place home. As you walk through the streets of Jamestown, the island’s capital, you’ll be greeted with smiles and open arms. The locals are proud of their home and eager to share its stories with curious visitors like you.

A Journey Back in Time

St Helena is steeped in history, and every step you take on this island is a journey back in time. As you explore the ancient fortifications or delve into the stories of the island’s most famous resident, Napoleon Bonaparte, you can’t help but feel a sense of awe. It’s like being a part of a living museum, where history comes alive with every tale.

One of the standout historical landmarks is Longwood House, the final residence of Napoleon. Walking through its doors, you’ll be transported to a bygone era, surrounded by the remnants of the great leader’s life. You can almost hear the whispers of the past as you stand in the very room where history unfolded.

Embrace the Adventure

Choosing St Helena means embarking on an adventure like no other. It’s a place where you can explore rugged landscapes, dive into crystal-clear waters, and hike through untouched wilderness. Whether you’re a thrill-seeker or a curious explorer, there’s something for everyone on this remarkable island.

So, my friend, if you’re seeking a destination that is off the beaten path, where the spirit of the past mingles with the beauty of the present, look no further than St Helena. It may not be the easiest journey, but I assure you, it will be an experience that will leave an indelible mark on your soul. Come, embrace the adventure, and discover the hidden wonders of St Helena.

Listen, you’ve gotta check out St. Helena – I’m telling you, it’s one of the most unique places on this planet. I mean, just think about it: an island so isolated, it kinda feels like it’s in its own little world. But it’s not just about that, oh no. St. Helena has so much more to offer, from breathtaking landscapes that’ll make your jaw drop to a rich natural history that’s truly fascinating. And hey, don’t even get me started on the politics – they’re pretty contemporary, if you catch my drift.

So, why should you visit?

• St Helena is like a dream come true for nature lovers.
• If you love hiking, this is the perfect place for you – it has 21 well-marked trails for you to explore.
• And let’s not forget the island’s fascinating history. It was discovered by accident in 1502 and kept a secret for more than 80 years. St Helena has been flying the Union Jack since 1659, except for a brief period of Dutch invasion.
• Before the first commercial flight (operated by Comair) arrived on St Helena in the middle of April 2016, visitors had to endure a five-day journey on the RMS St Helena.

Saying goodbye to the past

“I want to dedicate this next song to Ashley, who just got his driver’s license today. It’s one of our favorites here on Saint FM: Shania Twain’s ‘Don’t Be Stupid.’ This one’s for you, Ashley, from your mom.”

I’m driving in my rental car, and suddenly, the DJ’s voice bursts out of the speakers. The way he speaks is quite unusual, like a mix of British and Jamaican accents. It’s hard to focus on his words when there’s a narrow road in front of me, winding up a steep ridge. It looks like someone dropped a tangled mess of burnt spaghetti on a loaf of rye bread. And to make things more intense, a bright blue Subaru with a lowered suspension is coming towards me. It’s like something out of a movie.

Down below, I see the roofs of Jamestown. They’re made of corrugated metal and look out of place in this desolate valley. They provide little comfort as I try to figure out what to do. Luckily, we both come to a stop just in time. I quickly put my car in reverse and back down to find a spot where we can both pass each other. As we pass, the other driver waves and smiles, like it’s no big deal. But for me, it’s nerve-wracking. Maybe getting your driver’s license here is a serious accomplishment.

Wow! I can’t believe it’s only been three days since I arrived on St Helena. This place is considered one of the most remote inhabited islands on Earth. I mean, can you imagine? It took me five whole days on the RMS St Helena to get here from Cape Town. Did you know that this ship is one of the last few that still carries the prestigious title of a Royal Mail Ship? It’s a big deal! For the people here, known as Saints, this ship used to be their lifeline to the outside world. It’s incredible to think about.

Now that I’m here, I have to tell you, it’s like being on a digital detox. There’s no constant connection to the hustle and bustle of the online world. No emails, no social media. It’s just me and the island. And let me tell you, it’s a breath of fresh air! This place is not your typical island paradise, though. You won’t find pristine beaches with powdery white sand or fancy hotels with glitzy pools. This is a volcanic rock, and it’s beautiful in its own rugged way.

St Helena is a place that is steeped in history. It’s like stepping back in time. The politics here are fascinating, and there’s a sense of being on the edge of something new and exciting. But what really gets me is the sheer natural beauty of this place. It’s like a mini version of our planet, with all its wonders and mysteries. The volcanic landscape is simply awe-inspiring, and it’s a reminder of the incredible forces of nature that have shaped our world.

Have you ever stopped to consider the diverse landscapes of St Helena and how they complement the vastness of the surrounding ocean?

Now, let me take you back a few million years. How did life flourish on this young, geologically inexperienced island that arrived late to the breakup of the supercontinent Pangaea by nearly two hundred million years?

Imagine this: 14 million years ago, something incredible happened as the African continent collided with the Arabian plate. Deep beneath the surface of the South Atlantic, a fiery inferno known as the mantle burst through the earth’s crust on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge. It erupted from the ocean floor, shooting molten magma high into the darkened sky before crashing back down towards Triton in a mesmerizing display of power and chaos. This incredible event gave birth to St Helena – a tumultuous land of ash and lava, ready for colonization.

Among the first to arrive were cyanoplankton, tiny organisms that hitched a ride on the feet of seabirds. They feasted on the volcanic deposits and lava flows, creating nutrient-rich banks on the barren rocks. Soon, lichen and mosses followed suit, making their home on the new land. But they were not alone in their journey.

Other organisms also found their way to St Helena, thanks to the ingenious methods of nature. Seeds, hidden in the digestive systems of seabirds, survived the long flight from Africa and were deposited on the island without being excreted mid-flight. Fern spores, too light to resist the air currents, traveled vast distances, seeking a new home. And then there were the heavier wayfarers – unopened seed capsules of ebony, redwood, and dwarf trees that floated on the ocean currents until they washed up on the shores of St Helena. As the capsules dried and opened, their inhabitants would emerge, ready to start their new lives.

However, these journeys were not without their perils. Many of the brave explorers met untimely fates, either drowning in the vast ocean or experiencing navigational failures that led them astray. But life, like a persistent adventurer, always finds a way. Time, the ultimate ally, allows for the unimaginable to occur. It is this incredible resilience and the interplay between life and a volatile environment that makes St Helena a true paradise for explorers and naturalists, much like the renowned Galapagos Islands, Vanuatu, and the nearby Ascension Island.

Did you know that fairy terns are the only seabirds that make nests inland on St Helena? It’s pretty fascinating!

Today, I went on an adventure with Laurent Bate Roullin, a researcher from the St Helena National Trust, to explore their nesting habits. We started by walking down a small, cobbled alleyway in Jamestown and onto an old gravel path that winds around the town’s eastern ridge.

As we made our way, I couldn’t help but notice the ghost-white fairy terns flitting around us. They were squabbling over grass and twigs, their eyes swollen and black like shiny marbles. These beautiful birds had just returned from scavenging at sea.

We continued walking, and the gravel beneath Laurent’s boots made a satisfying crunching sound. Along the way, we passed by a series of worn-down fortifications cut into the rugged coastline. These fortifications were a testament to the island’s tumultuous history as a prized possession for the British colonizers.

In fact, St Helena had a reputation for being a place where enemies were sent to meet their doom. Even Napoleon Bonaparte, the legendary French general, was exiled here after his capture at the Battle of Waterloo. He spent his days pacing, plotting, and brooding at Longwood House, a mansion turned prison.

But it wasn’t just Napoleon who found himself stranded on this remote island. During the Boer War, around 6,000 South African prisoners were also held captive here. And later, the Zulu King Dinuzulu experienced the same fate.

The history and wildlife of St Helena make it a truly unique and intriguing place. It’s a fascinating mix of beauty and darkness, where fairy terns soar and history is etched into the land.

As I make my way inland, I enter a valley and pass through the windward plains of the island. Looking to the left, there’s a beautiful emerald-green ridge that leads up to Diana’s Peak, the highest point here. Right in front of me, I spot the wirebird plover, the last surviving land bird native to this island. It’s busy incubating its eggs in the short grass. The moment it sees me approaching, it darts away from its nest, pretending to be distressed in order to confuse any potential predators. I can’t help but wonder how this genus managed to survive when eight other bird species couldn’t.

As I continue my journey, the landscape undergoes a rapid transformation. The green grass transforms into a semi-arid desert, adorned with streaks of vibrant colors. It’s almost like an artist’s brush has swept across the sandy palette, creating a stunning masterpiece.

I see the windward side of St Helena in the distance, a rugged, rocky place where sailors used to find safety.

And here I am, recalling how I arrived at this place once again. Unfortunately, you’ll never get to experience the nostalgic journey from Cape Town. The completion of its decommissioning was originally tied to the estimated completion of the airport, which was first expected in 2012. Locals often joke that St Helena is a forever-under-construction airport. Finally, in May 2016, it will be finished. Instead of the leisurely five-day oceanic voyage that allows you to truly embrace the unhurried island life, it will now be a quick five-hour flight from Johannesburg. And, as you can imagine, things will inevitably change. They have to. The authorities responsible for revitalizing this rock’s commercial potential – which has struggled to sustain itself economically in various industries such as quinine production, flax farming, lace making, fish canning, and even stamp production over the years – are working tirelessly to upgrade the facilities and encourage locals to embrace a tourism revolution. But it’s not an easy task.

LEFT: Situated in James Valley, with a limited population of 850, Jamestown finds itself confined and unable to expand. RIGHT: James Bay offers an easy snorkeling experience near the shore, where you can explore the sunken wreck of the Papanui, which met its fiery demise in 1911.

In contrast to the island’s infatuation with fast cars on roads that twist and turn, restricting speeds to a crawling pace, the people of St Helena approach work and business with moderate enthusiasm. The island’s history of unsuccessful trade and reliance on foreign aid has seemingly fostered a culture of idleness that is passed down through generations. Opportunities for employment are scarce, with many stores frequently closed and taxis non-existent. Inside the dimly lit White Horse pub in Jamestown, where the only forms of entertainment are a couple of slot machines and a bartender with two arms instead of one, a local resident complains about the prospect of change and predicts the inevitable failure of the airport. These conversations about change hardly captivate my attention, much like a plain loaf of bread. Nevertheless, change is necessary for survival on this island. The time capsule of its colonial past must crack to make way for progress, and although nostalgic travelers may shed tears, there is one thing that will endure—the reason to visit. The true enchantment of St Helena resides in its natural beauty, which will hopefully be carefully preserved by the dedicated efforts of its tourism and conservation departments.

LEFT: Hey there! I want to tell you about this awesome hike I went on to Bank’s Battery. It’s such a cool place with a bunch of old fortifications to check out along the way. It’s like stepping back in time!

RIGHT: Oh, and let me tell you about the adorable sheep that greet you at Farm Lodge. They’re so curious and friendly. It’s like having a little welcoming committee!

As I drive back into town a few days later, I hear a DJ’s voice on the radio. “The World, a cruise liner, is anchored off the harbor. Passengers are coming ashore. If you have a car, come down and pick them up to make some extra money.” The announcement doesn’t seem to generate much interest, similar to a Golden Girls marathon. It’s Easter Saturday, so everything is closed. Confused passengers wander through the deserted streets, eventually making their way to the dock where they are taken back to their ship. The Saints, the locals, are nowhere to be found. They’ve all gone camping in a nearby valley. It’s as if the world came to visit, but nobody was home.

This situation reminds me of what Niall said about the need for a change in attitude if St Helena is to be successful. But at that moment, I can’t help but think that if I lived on this beautiful island and it was Easter weekend, I would also be camping in the valley with the Saints.

How to get there

Hey there! Let me tell you a little something about St Helena. Now, this place used to be a bit hard to get to. You could only go there on the RMS St Helena ship or if you were on a cruise. But guess what? Things changed in May 2016. That’s when they started having commercial flights! Isn’t that cool? Now you can easily hop on a plane and go straight to St Helena. How awesome is that?

When you visit St Helena, there are a few important things you should know. First, make sure you have medical insurance for your entire stay. You’ll need to show proof of insurance to the Immigrations Officer when you arrive. And don’t forget about the currency – the St Helena pound and pound sterling are used on the island. There are no ATMs, so it’s a good idea to exchange your money before you go. You can do this at the bank, but be prepared for long queues. If you need to rent a car, get a taxi, or book a tour, visit St Helena Tourism. They’re located at the top of Main Street in Jamestown and can help you with everything you need to know about your stay. The staff there are friendly and ready to assist you. It’s a great first stop after you arrive.

Left: As I hike to the top of Diana’s Peak on a clear day, I’m treated to a breathtaking view of the diverse landscape. It’s truly the best way to take it all in. Right: In Jamestown, the shopfronts transport you back in time to the 1950s, a nostalgic throwback.

What to do on St Helena

• Take a hike and explore St Helena on foot. There’s no better way to experience the island. There are 21 designated walking trails, known as post-box walks. At the summit of each trail, you’ll find a post box with a stamp and a visitor’s log. You can get a booklet with all the details about the hikes at the tourism office in Jamestown.
• Embark on a 4×4 adventure with Aaron’s Adventure Tour. It’s an excellent way to discover the less explored parts of the island and get a local’s perspective.
• Contact: +29023987.
• If you’re looking for an adventure, come and visit the Millennium Forest. This special place was created by the St Helena National Trust as a way to protect the environment. You can even join in and plant a tree yourself!
• Contact: +29022190
• Explore the underwater world of St Helena through scuba diving and fishing with Into the Blue. There are so many incredible creatures to see, like hawksbill turtles, whale sharks, and humpback whales. And if you’re into fishing, you’re in luck!
• Contact: +290 23459
• Dive into history as you snorkel to the Papanui, a steam passenger ship that sank in James Bay in 1911. You can go on your own or join a guided swim with Anthony Thomas.
• Contact: [email protected]

Where to stay in St Helena

If you’re planning a trip to St. Helena, it’s crucial to secure your accommodations ahead of time.

The options for places to stay are limited, and the best spots in the city tend to fill up quickly.

• Fowler’s Town House is a convenient choice. This self-catering house in Jamestown offers a double room, single room, and can accommodate up to three people. You’ll love the inviting courtyard that overlooks both the town and James Bay. Plus, it’s only a short walk to the town centre. To learn more, visit fowlerssthelena.com.

When it comes to accommodations in Jamestown, Coles Courtyard Hostel, also known as Coles Bunker, is a unique and rustic option. This hostel, owned by the St Helena National Trust, is located around a charming cobbled courtyard. While the rooms are individual, you’ll likely be sharing facilities with volunteers. It’s an ideal place to immerse yourself in the biodiversity and natural history of the island. During my stay, I encountered a researcher who was caring for an abandoned fairy tern chick and even found fish guts in the fridge!
If you’re interested, you can contact them at +29022190.

Another great choice for accommodation is Sleepy Hollow, a well-run and modern B&B situated in Half Tree Hollow, above Jamestown. The breathtaking views, exceptional service, and delicious breakfast make it a standout option. Plus, you can request Wi-Fi if needed. For more information or reservations, you can reach them at +1202 022 218.

I’m excited to share some amazing places you can explore in St Helena! If you’re in search of tranquility and beautiful countryside views, look no further than Farm Lodge. Located just 20 minutes from Jamestown, this stunning country house sits on an old working farm, offering you the ultimate peace and serenity. Connect with them at +29024040 for more information and reservations.

Now, let’s talk about the dining scene in St Helena. One must-visit spot is Sunflower Café, where you can indulge in delicious local dishes like tuna bake and pilau. Their menu is custom-made upon request, so make sure to book your table at least one day in advance. For reservations and inquiries, reach them at +29024145.

If you’re looking for a lively atmosphere and great food, Anne’s Place is the perfect hangout spot. Situated in Castle Gardens in Jamestown, this tropical-inspired diner offers a vibrant ambiance and mouthwatering dishes like tuna steak and fishcakes. For a memorable dining experience, make a reservation by calling +29022797.

Stay connected with us on social media for more travel news, inspiration, and guides. Don’t forget to tag us to be featured in our posts. We can’t wait to see all the amazing places you discover in St Helena!