My Quest for the Elusive Pel’s Fishing Owl and African Finfoot in Northern KwaZulu-Natal

Imagine spending nights in the enchanting game parks of northern KwaZulu-Natal with my friends. I must confess, I wasn’t the greatest at birdwatching, but I was certainly enthusiastic about it. My goal? To spot as many new bird species as possible and add them to my ever-expanding bird list. Two particular species had captured my imagination: the elusive Pel’s fishing owl and the African finfoot.

When I was at Mkhuze Game Reserve, I had the pleasure of staying in cozy chalets. The reserve was teeming with nyala and impala, which were completely comfortable around the camp. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot any of the rhinos or elephants that were said to be there, but we did have the incredible experience of witnessing a breathtaking sunset over the pan. One of the highlights of our stay was the Fig Forest Walk, which we embarked on with a knowledgeable local bird guide named Jabulani. It turned out to be a birding adventure like no other, as I added a whopping nine new species to my list during that walk. The Fig Tree Forest itself was a sight to behold, with its massive sycamore fig trees resembling melted candle wax.

Next up was Phinda Mountain Lodge, and let me tell you, it was something else. The lodge had this fabulous African chic vibe, and the rooms were just amazing. The bathrooms alone were out of this world, and I couldn’t help but fall in love with the private decks, plunge pools, and stunning outdoor showers. Unfortunately, the weather wasn’t ideal during my stay. It was cloudy and rainy both evenings, and on the second night, we found ourselves in the midst of a breathtaking thunderstorm. But let me tell you, the food at this lodge was top-notch. As expected from a five-star place, every meal was a true culinary delight. And after that intense thunderstorm game drive, we were welcomed back with piping hot Irish coffees that warmed us right up. Oh, and I can’t forget to mention the incredible sighting we had of a group of rhinos. They were so close to our vehicle, it was absolutely mesmerizing.

When I visited Tembe Elephant Park, I was blown away by the sheer size of the elephants there. They are some of the largest elephants in the world! What’s even more impressive is that the park is partly owned and fully managed by the local community, which makes it feel even more special.

The lodge I stayed at, Tembe Lodge, was a wonderful experience. While it may not be considered luxurious, the staff were incredibly kind and the food was simple yet delicious. If you’re looking for a more affordable option for tented game lodge accommodation, I highly recommend Tembe Lodge. The hospitality there is top-notch.

Exploring the reserve was an adventure in itself. Much of the area is only accessible by a 4×4 vehicle due to the sandy roads. However, if you’re driving a sedan, don’t worry! They provide transportation from the gate to the lodge. As I journeyed through the coastal bush, I discovered pockets of sand forest that added to the beauty of the landscape. And to my delight, my bird list grew by another six species!

Unfortunately, I didn’t get the chance to see the plainbacked or Neergard’s sunbirds on this trip. But fear not, I’m already planning my return to Tembe Elephant Park to search for them. On the bright side, I did have the incredible opportunity to see samango monkeys for the very first time. It was truly a memorable experience.

When I went on a safari, I was excited to see elephants. However, I realized that it wasn’t as easy as I thought. The coastal bush was so thick that the elephants seemed to disappear into it. We only saw a few of them, but they were impressive with their huge tusks. Sometimes, we would come across them on the narrow sandy roads during dusk. They would playfully flap their ears and snort before disappearing into the dense vegetation again.

For the last two nights of the safari, we stayed at Ndumo Game Reserve. This place is known for its variety of bird species, so I was hoping to spot the elusive Pel’s and finfoot birds. The chalets we stayed in were nice, with their own kitchen area. However, I found it strange that they didn’t have their own bathrooms. Instead, we had to use the shared bathrooms with the campers. It could get crowded in the mornings when everyone wanted to go on early game drives.

Wow, those crocodiles are massive! I heard that most of them escaped from the old Ndumo Croc Farm during Cyclone Demoina in the 80s. We were told to hire a local guide to help us find the birds we wanted to see, so we asked Tembisa to join us.

Tembisa warned us about hippos roaming around. Apparently, another group had a close encounter with one during a recent forest walk, so we were on high alert. As we trudged through the forest, making lots of noise with each step, I thought we had scared off all the animals, including the birds we were hoping to spot. But then, as we walked along the edge of a calm stream, we came face to face with a hippo in the water!

As I looked at the situation, I couldn’t help but think, “there’s no way he can climb up that steep bank and scare us, especially with a big enough escape route in the water.” Tembisa told us all to stay still. So we stood there, watching and waiting. And then, out of nowhere, a lone finfoot emerged from the dense branches above the water. It swam right past the hippo’s nose and made its way to the other bank, where it disappeared into more overhanging branches. We couldn’t help but burst into laughter. The hippo went underwater and vanished. What a relief! We couldn’t stop smiling.

We continued walking through the forest, following the stream and river banks, searching for another hour. We looked in every tall, dark tree, hoping to find the owl’s favorite spot. But, to our disappointment, we still couldn’t find the elusive Pel’s Fishing Owl.