Contents
Welcome to Rhodes Village!
If you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination, Rhodes Village is the perfect place for you! Nestled in the Southern Drakensberg, this historic village offers a unique experience like no other.
Step back in time as you wander through the narrow streets of this charming hamlet. Rhodes Village may be small, but its rich history and quiet beauty make it a must-visit destination.
As you explore the village, you’ll notice that there are no roads made of tar. Instead, the pathways are rustic and untouched, adding to the village’s old-world charm. While this might require a little extra effort on your part, the rewards are well worth it.
From Alpine Swift Trails, you can embark on a journey of breathtaking views and tranquil solitude. Lace up your hiking boots and get ready to be captivated by the stunning landscapes that surround you. Take a moment to catch your breath and bask in the beauty of nature.
What sets Rhodes Village apart is its unique name. Unlike most towns named after people, Rhodes Village had its name before its inhabitants. It’s a place steeped in history and mystery, waiting to be discovered.
So, if you’re up for an adventure away from the hustle and bustle of city life, pack your bags and head to Rhodes Village. Get ready to uncover the secrets of the past and immerse yourself in the serenity of this hidden gem. Rhodes Village is where you belong.
‘Back in 1891, they decided to name this place after Cecil John, hoping that he would bring some prosperity to the town,’ I heard from Dave Walker, as he leaned against the wall of the Thankshjalot Bar in the Walkerbouts Country Inn and Pub. ‘But guess what? He never showed up! Instead, the legend says that he sent £500 and an ox wagon loaded with pine trees to line the streets. Now, if you ask the plant experts, they’ll tell you that these are definitely not the same trees and there’s no evidence of them ever being sent here. But you know what they say, sometimes it’s better to believe in a good story than to worry about the facts.’
Swimming pool or pond? How about both! Check out the amazing chemical-free natural pool at Alpine Swift Trails.
Next to me in the wall is a tank filled with water, where three fat frogs lazily swim. They barely move, so you could mistake them for fake toys for the bath. In the background, a parrot lets out a loud screech.
‘By the way, they also say that the town clerk disappeared with £500 shortly after, and Cecil never came to this place,’ Dave tells me. The second part is true, Cecil never set foot in Rhodes. But, like Dave, I don’t really care much if the first part is true or not. There’s something intriguing about this bar. Maybe it’s the quietness that makes the truth irrelevant. Besides, the walls are covered with evidence – newspaper clippings, old photos, and sports memorabilia – they ground Rhodes’s history in reality, even if some stories are a bit embellished.
So, let me tell you about Dave and his adventures in Rhodes. You see, Dave traveled all the way back in the late 1970s, when Rhodes was going through its ‘Hippie Era’.
Now, let me paint a picture of what Rhodes looks like. As you roam its gravel streets, you’ll come across a special resident – a four-legged creature keeping a watchful eye on things. And if you head over to Tiffindell Ski Resort, you’ll be greeted by the sight of red-hot pokers in full bloom.
But there’s more to Rhodes than meets the eye. Believe it or not, there were people who came here seeking an alternative way of life. I heard from the locals that some of them were actually dodging the draft. They had a lookout stationed on a nearby hill, whose job was to keep an eye out for military police. Whenever they spotted trouble, they would quickly make their escape to their hidden cannabis farms in the mountains. And while they were off running, their wives and girlfriends were busy giving the officers a hard time!
I used to work close by at Tiffindell Ski Resort for a couple of years when South Africa had its first democratic election. During my time there, I had quite a diverse range of jobs. I made and sold cheese, crafted flies for fishing (which is a big deal in this area), renovated the village’s very first farmhouse, and I even dabbled in property buying and selling (which is still something I do). Apart from running this inn, I’ve found a way to create compressed cardboard briquettes that can burn easily. I’ve become quite passionate about reducing waste, and this is one of the ways I contribute to that cause.
But even us storytellers can’t resist talking about the weather, especially when there’s been a war raging in the sky for a whole week. Thunder rolls menacingly above the mountaintops, and a fierce wind whips up dust clouds that dance down the gravel streets. The wind zips past a mix of neat and rundown Victorian-style houses, an old hotel with boarded-up windows, and rusty gas pumps that are no longer in use. Two vandalized stop signs – one declaring “Don’t Stop Believing” and the other urging us to “Stop Worrying” – tremble as the gust of wind sweeps past them. Even the lawns have “For Sale” signs poking out of the untidy grass.
At Tiffindell Ski Resort, you’ll find vibrant red-hot pokers in full bloom.
Living in a historic village, tucked away from the bustling city life, certainly has its downside. You don’t have access to all the convenient facilities you may be used to. Getting things like building materials, fuel, and everyday essentials can be quite a logistical puzzle. Plus, a significant number of houses in the village are primarily vacation homes, meaning they only get occupied for a few short visits each year.
“The people who come to Rhodes are a unique bunch,” explains Dave. “If you really want to have a great time here, you have to commit to taking a whole week off, come prepared, and have a good reason.” That evening, 11 different reasons walk through the doors of the Walkerbouts Inn. They are a group of older plant enthusiasts from Grahamstown, led by Professor Roy Lubke from Rhodes University, who teaches botany. Their purpose for visiting Rhodes is simple: they want to see the beautiful wild flowers that decorate the mountainsides this time of year. These flowers include red-hot pokers, yellow thistles, yellow dobo lilies (Cyrtanthus anaganii), and tritonias. “In just half an hour here, in the Tiffindell basin near the ski resort, we saw more flowers than we have seen all year,” Roy says excitedly. That night, the group is filled with excitement as they share stories and show off photos from their day’s adventure.
On my final day, I decide to visit Alpine Swift Trails, a popular destination for trail running and mountain biking. This place, owned by Hylton and Sunelle Dunn, offers an amazing experience. The highlight of the facility is a beautiful 25-meter swimming pond, which is filled with spring water and maintained by water lilies and koi. I join Hylton on a hike up one of the nearby peaks, where he points out the different trails.
Alpine Swift Trails has something for everyone, whether you enjoy hiking, running, or mountain biking. There are countless trails to explore. Some trails lead all the way to Wartrail, a farming community located on the other side of the Witteberg Mountains. Others take you along the high-altitude border of Lesotho near Tiffendell. For those looking for shorter and easier hikes, there are also routes that take you into the beautiful hills surrounding Rhodes Village.
As I listen to Hylton share all the amazing things you can do in this place, my eyes light up with excitement. It’s crystal clear that this little village, hidden beneath the enchanting pine trees, is a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts like you and me.
Welcome to Walkerbouts Country Inn and Pub
Plan Your Adventure
Getting There
To get here from Bloemfontein, simply take the N6 road to Aliwal North, and then continue on the R58 towards Lady Grey until you reach Barkly East. From there, it’s a scenic 60km drive on the gravel R39 road (heading north and then east over the Bell River) until you reach Rhodes. The entire journey from Bloemfontein should take around 4 and a half hours.
Where to Stay
Welcome to Walkerbouts Country Inn and Pub! You won’t believe it, but this inn is actually located on the exact spot where the original farmhouse was built in Rhodes. It’s a historic place, but don’t let that fool you, it’s also super comfy and cozy. You won’t even feel the need to step out because we’ve got everything you need right here. Seriously, we’ve got it all – a lounge, a dining room, a happening place called the Thankshjalot Bar, and an enchanting garden. And let’s not forget about our awesome bedrooms. There are six of them, and each one comes with its own en-suite bathroom. Perfect for those chilly winter nights!
Now, let’s talk prices. You’ll be amazed to hear that our rates start from just R615 per person when you share a room with someone. That’s a steal, right? So go ahead and give us a call at 045-974-9290 to book your stay. But hey, if you want to know more about us, check out our website at walkerbouts.co.za. It’s got all the juicy details you’re looking for.
Welcome to Alpine Swift Trails, a brand new setup located on Grace-Hill Farm just outside of town. As someone who loves nature and enjoys high-altitude training, this place is perfect for you. Our facilities include comfortable rooms and a communal area where you can prepare your own meals. And the best part? We have a stunning natural pool right in the middle of it all.
If you prefer something more private, we have the Swallows Nest chalet, which can accommodate two people. It’s nestled in a secluded spot behind the pool, offering you a peaceful retreat. And if you’re looking for a larger accommodation, our Amanzi Empilo stone bungalow is ideal for up to four people. It’s located further down a scenic track along the Bell River and is completely off-the-grid. Don’t worry, though – we use solar and gas power for our appliances and have a donkey boiler to heat water.
Our rates start at R250 per person for our comfortable rooms. If you’d like to stay in the cozy Swallows Nest chalet or the spacious Amanzi Empilo bungalow, rates start at R350 per person.
If this sounds like the perfect getaway for you, give us a call at 072-529-2747 or visit our website at alpineswifttrails.co.za. We can’t wait to welcome you to Alpine Swift Trails and provide you with an unforgettable experience in the heart of nature.
Welcome to Tiffindell Ski Resort! We’ve got a range of accommodations to suit your needs, from cozy mountain suites to spacious family chalets that can sleep up to 12 people. If you’re looking to stay close to the action, especially during the winter ski season, then this is the place to be. Our winter rates are based on ski packages (minimum three nights) and include breakfast and dinner, ski passes, and equipment hire. You can book a family chalet that sleeps eight for three nights starting at R5,140. For more information and bookings, visit our website at tiffindell.co.za or give us a call at 011-781-2620.
What To Do
Explore Rhodes Art Gallery. This wonderful gallery is filled with a wide array of antiques, as well as local and exotic artworks and pop-culture trinkets. While you’re there, you might even have the chance to see local artist Tony Kietzman working in his adjacent studio. If you’re interested, you can reach the gallery at 082-894-3946.
Come and enjoy a delicious milkshake at Clay Café. It’s the perfect place to relax and watch the bustling town while admiring beautiful pottery crafted by local artists. You can contact us at 073-833-6068.
Experience the thrill of fly fishing on more than 300km of pristine streams. All you need is a permit and fishing rod, which you can get from the Wild Trout Association or Linecasters Fly Shop. Once you have everything, you’ll have a whole section of the streams to yourself. Prices start from R150 per person. For more information, call 045-971-9003 or 082-640-2930.
Spend quality time at Rhodes River Park, a beautiful park located next to the Bell River. This well-maintained communal area offers a deck with comfortable chairs under a majestic willow tree, a trampoline, and plenty of space for kids to run around and play. Best of all, entrance is free. Call 083-327-1724 for any inquiries.
Make sure to visit the Rhodes Info Centre during your stay. They offer bicycle rentals for only R60 per person per hour, allowing you to explore the town at your own pace. Additionally, the staff can provide you with all the information you need about upcoming activities, trails, and events in the area. Contact them at 045-971-9003.
Where to Eat
Walkerbouts Country Inn and Pub is a happening place with a delicious build-your-own pizza option that will make your mouth water. And the best part? You can enjoy it for as low as R55. Give them a call at 045-974-9290 to satisfy those pizza cravings.
Rubicon Restaurant might have been closed when I popped by, but I’ve heard from reliable sources that their food is scrumptious and their service is top-notch. Plus, if the sign at the entrance is any indication, they’re also biker-friendly. You can dig into their tasty meals starting from R50 by dialing 083-659-3271.
Where do the locals hang out?
Malebohang Letsika, the potter
“Whenever I find some free time, I love to head over to the Clay Café. It’s a great spot to sip on a milkshake or a cup of coffee while checking out our unique pottery creations. Come see what we have in store for you!” For more information, give us a ring at 073-833-6068.
Mari Small, the chef
‘I spend most of my time away from home, but when I have a little bit of free time during my work shift, I like to take a stroll through the garden at Walkerbouts [there’s a hidden chair that’s worth finding].’ walkerbouts.co.za
Sean de Wet, retired person
‘On most Wednesdays [between November and February], the locals gather together for Bring and Wine in the park by the Bell River. “Wine/whine” is spelled differently depending on how their weekend went.’ Starting at 6pm. No admission fee.
‘On most Wednesdays [between November and February], the locals gather together for Bring and Wine in the park by the Bell River. “Wine/whine” is spelled differently depending on how their weekend went.’ Starting at 6pm. No admission fee.