Raising Dust in the Namib Desert

I recently had the opportunity to visit the breathtaking Namib Desert in Southern Africa. Let me tell you, it was an experience like no other. The Namib Desert, known as one of the oldest deserts in the world, is a place that truly captivates the senses.

When I first stepped foot in the desert, I was immediately taken aback by its vastness. The endless expanse of rolling dunes seemed to stretch on forever, creating a sense of awe and wonder. It was as if I had stepped into another world, a world where time stood still and nature reigned supreme.

The sand dunes, with their mesmerizing patterns and colors, were a sight to behold. The shifting sands created an ever-changing landscape, with each dune telling its own unique story. It was like walking through an art gallery, where nature was the artist and the dunes were its masterpieces.

But the beauty of the Namib Desert is not confined to its dunes alone. The desert is also home to a rich and diverse ecosystem, adapted to survive in the harsh desert environment. From the hardy plants that cling to life in the sandy soil to the elusive animals that roam the desert floor, there is so much life to discover in this seemingly inhospitable place.

One of the highlights of my trip was witnessing the phenomenon of “roaring dunes.” These are dunes that emit a deep, resonating sound when sand slides down their slopes. It’s a surreal experience that can only truly be appreciated when you’re standing at the base of a dune, feeling the vibrations reverberate through the sand.

The Namib Desert is a place where time stands still, where nature is both magnificent and unforgiving. It’s a place that challenges your perception of what a desert can be. So if you’re looking for an adventure that will leave you in awe, I highly recommend exploring the dunes of the Namib Desert. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.

Hey there! So, I took a trip all the way to Namibia to meet with Dr. John Heydinger and hear what he has to say about desert-adapted lions. Let me tell you, it was quite the journey, especially since I had my toddler with me.

Written by: Lynelle Govender Photos by: AJ Wattamaniuk

I’m sitting on a dusty rock wall at the Wêreldsend Environmental Centre in Namibia. The gravel roads outside are no problem for our rental bakkie. It’s a peaceful scene, with the sound of Dr. John Heydinger’s guitar in the background. The sun beats down on us, making it too hot to do much else. I look over and see my two-year-old daughter playing in the sand, marveling at the world around her.

“Mama, I like this fluffy dust,” she says, her eyes shining with joy.

I can’t help but smile at her enchantment.

For the last couple of weeks, dust has been my constant companion. It’s stuck to me, clung to my hair, and made itself at home everywhere I go. It all started when my friend AJ and I embarked on a road trip from Cape Town to Kunene, Namibia. Our plan was for my daughter to join us later on, flying with my husband to meet us in Walvis Bay. Along the way, we encountered many curious souls who couldn’t understand why two women would choose to travel alone through two countries, especially in the middle of the desert.

So here’s the deal: my friend Lynelle and I have a pretty interesting combo going on. She’s a talented photographer, and I fancy myself as a wordsmith. And let me tell you, we’re on a serious mission. Our destination? The meeting with Dr. Heydinger, a researcher and co-founder of the incredible Lion Rangers program up in north-west Namibia.

You see, this program is absolutely crucial when it comes to dealing with the conflicts between humans and lions. Up in this neck of the woods, you’ve got about 80 to 120 lions roaming around in the desert, living alongside the local communities. It’s a unique situation, and that’s where the Lion Rangers come in.

These rangers are all about managing the interactions between people and lions. By working closely with the local conservancies and involving the community in wildlife management, they find peaceful ways for humans and lions to coexist.

As a city woman in Cape Town, I honestly have no idea what any of this means. Lions are not a part of my everyday life, so it’s difficult for me to grasp the true significance of their presence in this region of Namibia. However, I’m eager to learn more and uncover the truth.

As I embarked on my journey, it wasn’t just the lions that captivated me; there were other incredible wildlife sightings along the way, like this magnificent oryx near Sesriem, effortlessly striking a pose.

Setting off on the N7 from Cape Town, a seemingly endless highway cutting through the Northern Cape, I was filled with mixed emotions. This rare opportunity for a child-free adventure stirred up worries about the impact of our temporary separation. I couldn’t help but wonder how it would feel to travel long distances with a little one in the backseat. Uncertainty loomed, making me question my decision to leave the comfort of home for this unpredictable journey. However, the moment we pressed on and ventured further north, those anxieties began to fade. Instead, a sense of excitement took hold, eager for the eventual reunion with my beloved family.

When I arrived at the border crossing between Vioolsdrift and Namibia in this crazy pandemic world, things were a bit more complicated than usual. Not only did I have to go through the usual passport control and customs, but I also had to undergo health screening. It was required that I had a Covid-19 test done in South Africa within 72 hours of my border crossing plans. However, as I finally crossed the border, I couldn’t help but feel a wave of relief wash over me. Getting a stamp in my passport during these times of Covid-19 felt more significant than ever before. Despite all the challenges, I was on a journey, sitting in a car, and about to explore a new place. This thought filled me with so much gratitude that it managed to push away any lingering guilt.

Taking a break. My family and I tagged along with Dr. Heydinger as he tracked lions in the northwest of Namibia.

We bumped into Dr. Heydinger at a crowded gas station in Karibib. He gave us a warm welcome and began loading his equipment into the back of the 4×4 that we had rented to join him in the field. There was a toolbox, cooking supplies, a tent, a sleeping bag, a first aid kit, and 50 liters of water. The nature of field work, as I learned, was highly unpredictable, often requiring us to sleep wherever the day’s “work” took us.

At that point, I still had no idea what exactly “field work” entailed. I nodded as if I understood, preparing myself for whatever lay ahead.

Meet Dr. Heydinger, a sharp-featured, smart, and energetic individual. As we departed from the fuel station, he outlined our loose plan for the day. We had received word that there were lions potentially roaming near the well-known ‘White Lady’ rock painting, and it was our responsibility to investigate. In that moment, I couldn’t help but reflect on my life back home. As a medical doctor turned lecturer, chasing after wandering lions was completely outside of my comfort zone.

I had the chance to witness firsthand the important work of The Lion Rangers when I joined the response to the call at ‘White Lady’. As we entered the vast area where the lions were spotted, Dr. Heydinger frequently stopped the vehicle. Sometimes we would halt so he could show us animal tracks on the road, like a leopard or a lion. But most times, we would park in a cloud of dust to speak to members of the community, lodge owners, and local guides. We needed to gather information about this pride of lions that seemed to have made themselves at home near a popular tourist trail.

When I arrived in this place, I quickly realized that communication would be a major hurdle to overcome. The long distances, tough terrain, and patchy network coverage made it difficult to connect with others. And to make matters more complicated, there were so many different languages spoken here. It was then that I truly understood the importance of effective communication.

Initially, I had imagined my time here to be filled with thrilling adventures and glorious encounters with lions. However, I soon discovered that the true essence of this place was not just about the wild animals; it was about the people who lived and worked here.

I found myself engaged in conversations with locals, learning about their lives, their struggles, and their triumphs. It was through these interactions that I gained a newfound appreciation for the power of communication. It became clear to me that the work I was doing was not solely about the wildlife; it was about connecting with people and understanding their needs.

But communicating effectively in this environment was no easy feat. The vast distances meant that face-to-face interactions were limited, so I had to find alternative ways to reach out and connect. Technology became my ally, enabling me to stay in touch with individuals across the region.

Language barriers proved to be another obstacle I had to overcome. With so many different languages spoken here, I realized the importance of finding common ground and learning to communicate in a way that transcended words. Through gestures, expressions, and simple acts of kindness, I found ways to bridge the gap and establish meaningful connections.

As I reflect on my time here, I am reminded of the incredible power of communication. It has the ability to transcend barriers, forge connections, and foster understanding. So, if you find yourself in a similar situation, facing the challenges of communication in a diverse and remote environment, remember that it is not just about the words you say, but the connections you create. Embrace the opportunity to connect with others and discover the true beauty of ‘people-work’.

During my time at Wāreldsend, I really began to understand why community-driven work like this is so important. The community and the lions here are intertwined. Namibia has adopted a community conservancy model that puts wildlife management in the hands of local people. Projects like The Lion Rangers align with this model, working with the community to manage these powerful predators. One area where conflict can arise is with livestock. Goats, sheep, and cattle are vital to people’s livelihoods, but they can also become targets for hungry lions. The Lion Rangers and farmers have developed strategies to address this potential problem.

I had a conversation with Alfeus Ouseb, a local farmer and livestock owner, about the installation of the first early warning tower a few years back.

Some of the lions in the area have been equipped with collars. These collars send out signals that indicate their location at certain times throughout the day. We found these signals to be quite helpful when we went to ‘White Lady’. By using the location pins and talking with the community, we were able to confirm that the lions weren’t a danger to people or their animals.

So, here’s the thing. We have these towers, right? They’re like these super smart towers that can pick up signals from lion collars. We’ve strategically placed them in certain areas to give farmers a heads-up when lions might be getting too close for comfort. When these towers go off, they activate an alarm and lights, which act as a sort of scare tactic for both the lions and the farmers. It’s like a warning sign, saying, “Hey, watch out! Lions might be on the way!” It’s pretty cool, actually.

But it’s not just the towers. We also have these amazing Lion Rangers and rapid response teams on the ground, doing their thing. They’re like the superheroes of lion conservation. Seriously, they put in the work to make sure these lions don’t wreak havoc on the farmers’ livestock and livelihoods. They’re a crucial part of the whole operation.

I’ve come to realize just how important all of this is. These desert-adapted lions, they need our help. And thanks to technologies like these towers and the dedication of people like the Lion Rangers, we’re able to protect the lions and support the farmers at the same time. It’s a win-win situation, if you ask me.

When Bash and I finally arrived in Namibia, I realized I hadn’t laid my eyes on a lion yet. This, strangely enough, filled me with a sense of contentment. I’ve always believed in the mantra of “live and let live.” Our time at Wêreldsend was coming to a close when Dr. Heydinger dropped a bombshell – we were going to track a group of lions the following day. Buckle up, it was going to be a marathon for sure.

I made sure to pack enough sustenance for my daughter, knowing that this was going to be a long day in the wilderness. I couldn’t help but feel excited for her. The prospect of seeing a real-life lion up close had her buzzing with anticipation. The next day dawned and we embarked on our adventure. To our delight, it took us only five hours to locate a lioness. She was a sight to behold – majestic, imposing, and oozing raw power. In her presence, I couldn’t help but feel small and vulnerable, like potential prey.

Unfortunately, right at that moment, my daughter decided to pull a classic toddler move and dozed off. She missed the entire spectacle. Oh well, such is life. At least we now have a lion story to share, even if it’s just between Bash and me.

Picture this: a moonlit night at Fish River Lodge, where the enchanting sight of quiver trees captures your imagination. It’s an adventure that requires endurance, though. The scorching heat and bumpy ride in the trusty bakkie can really wear you out. But don’t worry, we find respite under the shelter of a rocky ledge after our encounter with the majestic lions.

As we catch our breath, I hand my daughter a refreshing juice to rejuvenate ourselves. And there, out of the corner of my eye, I witness AJ and Bash amusingly attempting to conquer the towering rock wall. We’re all novices when it comes to rock climbing, but in that moment, it seemed like a brilliant idea. In reality, it was quite foolish.

It’s not long before I hear a sudden crash and what meets my eyes is Bash sprawled out on the ground, dangerously close to a sharp rock that strangely resembles a pointy death-pyramid. From what I can gather, as he was scaling the steep rock wall, a fragment of the rock he was gripping broke off, causing him to lose his balance and take a tumble. The urgency of the situation settles over me, a reflexive calm that’s been ingrained in me through years of medical training. When everyone else is on the verge of panic, it’s my role as the doctor to take a moment to collect myself.

As I approach Dr. Heydinger, I can’t help but evaluate him piece by piece. It’s like a mental checklist that I’ve memorized over time. He’s awake and talking, and I don’t see any signs of bleeding. These are all very good signs. I crouch down next to him, wearing a gaze that conveys both concern and anger. He knows he’s done something foolish. I carefully examine his body, using a bottle of water to clean the dust and dirt off a scrape on his leg. It’s a relief to see that nothing is broken and that he’s still alive.

My daughter watches the whole scene with curiosity. “What are you doing, mama?” she asks. I smile and explain, “Dada fell, baby. Mama is here to help.”

Hey there! Let me tell you a story about a toddler and his dad. Picture this: the little boy is playing around, and then suddenly he trips and hurts himself. Ouch! But wait, here comes his loving dad to the rescue. He kneels down, pretending to put a bandage on his son’s leg and says, ‘Dada feel better now.’ It’s such a heartwarming scene that it’s impossible not to crack a smile.

As I interacted with local community members about lion issues, I was accompanied by Dr. Heydinger and Linus Mbomboro, the leader of the Rapid Response team. It was an engaging experience, and I was grateful for the opportunity.

On the way back home, I couldn’t help but notice a change in myself. It was as if I had transitioned from being a parent to being a mother, and I was filled with a sense of wonder and awe towards my adaptable child. Throughout our journey, my daughter embraced the joys of camping, outdoor bathing, and even spotting a real oryx from the safety of her car-seat.

“Look at my toys! I have an oryx!” she excitedly exclaimed, proudly displaying her treasured possessions.

I’m sitting here with the Lion Rangers, enjoying breakfast before we head out for some field work. As we eat, I can’t help but think about how my worries and fears didn’t prepare me for the incredible adventure that stepping out of my comfort zone has brought.

When we finally return to Cape Town, I’m reluctant to wash my vehicle. Everyone says I should clean off the dead bugs and dust because it’s not good for the paint and the hidden corners. But I can’t bring myself to do it. The dust feels like a reminder of the amazing journey we’ve had, of witnessing the incredible work being done to protect lions and questioning my own irrational fears about traveling with a toddler.

The dirt on the rims doesn’t make me feel ashamed. Instead, it fills me with a sense of pride.

Lynelle, AJ, and I take a moment to relax and enjoy ourselves at Sossusvlei.

Incredible Facts: lions that survive in the desert
• These lions can walk up to 40km in a single night.
• Their territory covers around 3,500 square kilometers, which is larger than that of an average savannah lion.
• Unlike other lions, they don’t need to search for water because they get enough hydration from their prey.
• On an average day, they eat about 8.5kg of meat, but they can eat up to 65kg in one meal.
• Desert-adapted lions have a longer lifespan in the wild, usually living two to four years more than savannah lions.

Trip Planner

Getting There

I’m going to tell you about my trip from Cape Town to Wêreldsend, Namibia. When I left Cape Town, all the roads I took were nice and smooth. They were made of tar and in great shape. But as I crossed into Namibia, things changed. Most of the roads there were made of gravel. They were still in good condition, but it’s important to be a little more careful when driving on them.

When I had the opportunity to participate in the translocation of a pair of lions, it was quite an adventure. These lions had become a bit too comfortable near an area with livestock, so it was important to relocate them.

Come Stay Here

If you’re looking for an unforgettable experience, I highly recommend Fish River Lodge located in Fish River Canyon. This lodge is the only one on the western side of the canyon and offers breathtaking views from its perch on the edge of the rim. I can honestly say that it’s one of the most thrilling and secluded places I’ve ever had the pleasure of staying at. If you’re interested, you can contact them at +264 61 228 104 or [email protected] Visit their website at fishriverlodge-namibia.com.

Hey there! Let me tell you about the Wørldsend Environmental Centre, where the Lion Ranger programme is located. It’s a pretty remote base camp, and believe it or not, the nearest grocery store is a two-hour drive away! Can you imagine?

Now, I want to introduce you to an awesome campsite called Sesriem in the Namib-Naukluft National Park. It’s a place where you can camp without breaking the bank! And guess what? If you stay here, you get special perks! You can access Sossusvlei one hour earlier and later than other visitors. That means you can catch those breathtaking sunrises and sunsets in all their glory. Pretty cool, right? Trust me, it’s totally worth it.

Oh, and let me tell you about the staff at Sesriem. They’re the real MVPs! They are super friendly and always ready to lend a helping hand. They go above and beyond to make sure your stay is as amazing as possible. Now that’s what I call excellent customer service!

If you want to learn more about Sesriem, you can check out their website at nwrnamibia.com/sesriem.htm.