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Discovering Tranquility in the Magical Nxaxo Estuary
Imagine finding yourself in a place where time slows down, and all worries simply melt away. That’s exactly what awaits you in the extraordinary Nxaxo Estuary. Situated in a hidden corner of the world, this breathtaking destination provides a sanctuary of peace and harmony.
As you meander through the vibrant landscape, the tranquility of the Nxaxo Estuary envelops you. The gentle rustling of the leaves and the whispering breeze combine to create a symphony of serenity. The air is crisp and refreshing, carrying with it the sweet scent of wildflowers in full bloom.
Amidst the calmness, you’ll encounter a myriad of fascinating creatures that call this estuary home. Majestic herons gracefully take flight, their wings spread wide in the azure sky. Playful otters dart in and out of the tranquil waters, their sleek bodies gliding effortlessly through the current. And if you’re lucky, you might even spot a family of elegant deer meandering through the lush foliage.
Take a moment to close your eyes and listen to nature’s melody. The soft chirping of birds, the gentle gurgling of the river, and the distant rustling of leaves create a symphony that rejuvenates your soul. In this peaceful haven, the worries of the modern world feel distant and insignificant.
As you explore the hidden corners of the Nxaxo Estuary, you can’t help but feel a deep connection to the natural world. You become aware of the delicate balance that exists between all living things, and you’re reminded of the importance of cherishing and preserving this fragile ecosystem.
With every step you take along the winding trails, you feel a sense of wonder and awe. Each turn reveals a new and breathtaking vista, painting vivid images in your mind. The vibrant colors of the wildflowers, the rich greens of the towering trees, and the sparkling blues of the serene river blend together to create a masterpiece of nature.
So if you’re in search of tranquility, look no further than the magnificent Nxaxo Estuary. Step into this hidden paradise, and let its beauty wash over you. Allow yourself to be enraptured by the wonders of this enchanting sanctuary. The Nxaxo Estuary is waiting to welcome you with open arms and grant you the gift of pure serenity.
In Nxaxo Estuary, I find myself captivated by the abundant beauty of nature, the intriguing tales of shipwrecks along its rugged shores, and the extraordinary individuals who have chosen to call the Wild Coast of the Eastern Cape their own.
Bruce Viaene beautifully captures the essence of Jess Nicholson’s enchanting journey through stunning photographs.
Imagine paddling through the Nxaxo Estuary, surrounded by a lush forest of mangrove trees. The tide is high, and you can get up close to these majestic trees and the creatures that call them home.
As I venture deeper into the Ndlezana forests, walking along the rugged cliffs that mark the edge of Africa, something inside me starts to shift. The hustle and bustle of city life suddenly feels like a rat race, and I find myself yearning for a simpler existence among the birds, snakes, and cows that inhabit this magical place. Our guide, Dinala Bistoli, is a living embodiment of the connection between humans and nature. His presence ignites a passion for trees and a desire to live off the grid, away from the chaos of civilization.
‘If we have to climb a steep hill and you need to catch your breath, I’ve got just the thing,’ Dinala says, motioning towards a thriving bush of wild sage. As we continue, he assures me that acacia bark works wonders for any broken bones. I also discover that wild figs are perfect for wrapping wounds, and the tart ones soothe insect bites. ‘And let’s say someone gets left behind, stranded and hungry,’ he adds with a chuckle. ‘The milk from the Bushman’s poisonous tree will slow down a bushbuck, giving us enough time to catch it for dinner.’ He also jokes that if you accidentally eat some of the poisonous tree, instead of using it as a trap, don’t worry. Just eat some red beech to make yourself vomit.
As I venture into the enchanting Ndlezana forest and approach the stunning Nxaxo Estuary, I am immediately struck by the multifaceted wonders that nature has to offer. The trees that surround me not only provide shade and shelter but also serve as a source of nourishment and healing.
Today marks my first expedition into the captivating beauty of the Nxaxo Estuary and its surroundings. As I emerge from the verdant forest and descend towards the sandy beach that leads to the Kobonqaba River, I am greeted by a playful whale who blows a friendly greeting and waves its tail in excitement. Soon after, a large pod of dolphins cruises by, gracefully riding the waves as they discover a hidden gem of a right point break just offshore. Behind us lies Sandy Point, the final majestic dune that is veiled in an aura of mist, legends, and enigmatic tales.
So there I was, 200 years ago in 1829, standing in the very spot where a group of people embarked on a remarkable journey to East London. This incredible story was recounted in The Narrative, penned by one of Wavecrest’s renowned guests, David Culpin. By pure chance, Culpin stumbled upon a lost manuscript that fell out of a book in the Cape Town Library.
Unlike us, who were enjoying a comfortable sleep and a satisfying breakfast, these French travelers found themselves in a dire predicament. They were cold, famished, and utterly exhausted after their ship, the Eole, sank. Their intended destination was Bordeaux, and their knowledge of surviving in Africa was limited. However, with the aid of some of Dinala’s Xhosa ancestors, they miraculously made their way to East London.
The Narrative is filled with gripping accounts of their perilous adventures and profound insights. It was truly a tough act to follow, but I had already discovered some secrets during my time on the Wild Coast…
As Dinala Bistoli guides me along a cattle track through the forest on a day hike from the Wavecrest Hotel to Trennerys, I can’t help but feel a sense of wonder.
The journey begins with Sandy Point, where the dunes reveal more than what meets the eye. They are partially covered by dune forest, creating a hidden treasure trove. As I explore the area the next day, I come across unexpected surprises. Among the spotted ground thrush and Narina trogons, I stumble upon shells and fragments of shipwreck. It’s like uncovering a secret world.
Visitors to Wavecrest have even made fascinating discoveries during their afternoon strolls. They proudly display strange black rocks on their mantelpieces, believed to be fragments of meteorite. One daring explorer even returned with photographic proof of fossilized hippo footprints. It’s incredible to think about the ancient creatures that once roamed these lands.
You won’t believe what I just heard! Apparently, a long time ago, the sand from the dune moved away and exposed a big patch of clay with footprints on it. Can you imagine? Some people think it means that hippos and elephants lived here thousands of years ago! I was talking to Sean Pike, who works at the Wavecrest Hotel, and he told me about it. He said that the sand has covered up the footprints again, so it’s really hard to find the exact spot. Sean was being kind of secretive about it because he doesn’t want a bunch of amateur scientists taking over the place!
The sandy dunes of Sandy Point hold a treasure trove of wonders: fossils, shipwrecked loot, and even remnants of meteorite. Secrets are buried here, waiting to be discovered. (Photo: Jess Nicolson)
When you stay at the Wavecrest Hotel, there’s more to enjoy than just the beauty of trees, birds, geology, and history. You can also relax on the beach, paddle along the estuary, explore the forests, or go fishing off the block—a concrete structure jutting into the sea, perfect for casting your line into deep waters in search of colossal kob. This place has a warm, family-like atmosphere, and it’s no wonder that so many guests choose to return year after year.
In my 23 years of working here, I’ve seen countless guests come and go. But there’s one guest who holds a special place in my heart—a woman from Canada who has become a regular visitor. She doesn’t just come here for a vacation; she makes herself at home and even likes to work. I remember one time when she stayed for three weeks and spent her time sewing new curtains. Just because she wanted to. That’s the kind of person she is,” Nosisa recalls fondly.
When I think about this stretch of wild coast, I can’t help but notice how it attracts different types of people. Some are drawn to this place by the opportunity to engage with nature and immerse themselves fully in its beauty. They might come here for just a short visit, having a meal or spending a night to rest and recharge.
During my time here, I’ve come across various individuals, each with their own unique interests and activities. I’ve encountered horse riders who gracefully navigate the terrain, hikers who explore the trails on foot, and even cyclists who possess incredible strength and balance, effortlessly carrying their bikes on their heads as they cross rivers.
There was one person in particular, a truly remarkable individual named André Redinger. He embarked on an extraordinary adventure, running all the way from Port Edward, covering a distance of 320 kilometers in a single stage. I can only imagine the immense physical and mental strength he must have possessed to accomplish such a feat. If you’re interested, you can learn more about his journey on rockethorseracing.co.za/the-baleka.
It’s fascinating to think about the countless possibilities and adventures that await in this untamed paradise. I’ve even heard rumors of two ultra-swims being planned, adding to the thrill and excitement that this place offers.
When I go riding through forests and along cliff paths, it’s like an adventure. I can go fast and feel the wind in my hair. And the best part is, it’s safe! Sean told me that I can keep going in any direction I want. There are some sharks in the rivers, but they’re harmless and don’t bother anyone. People even come here to fish because it’s so good. The Nxaxo Estuary is one of the best places in South Africa for fishing. You can fish in the sea or in the river mouth, and there are lots of different kinds of fish to catch. The mangroves make it a great place for fish to live.
Wow, let me tell you about this amazing adventure I had! I’m Bruce Viaene, a professional adventure photographer and not-so-professional fisherman. I recently went on a fishing trip, and let me tell you, it was quite an experience!
As I cast my line, I couldn’t have predicted what would happen next. I was truly amazed at how successful my fishing expedition turned out to be. But there was one moment that left me feeling a bit uneasy. I came across a mullet that was so gigantic, I couldn’t help but imagine what would happen if it decided to chase after me!
Despite that little scare, the whole experience was incredibly peaceful. It felt like I had been transported to another world, where the only sounds I could hear were of fish eagles soaring above, kingfishers diving into the water, crabs scurrying around in the mangroves, and the gentle flapping of the spotted grunter.
It was truly a surreal experience, being surrounded by such natural beauty and tranquility. I have to say, if you’re looking for a peaceful escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, this is the place to be. The sights and sounds of nature will soothe your soul and leave you feeling refreshed.
Wilmari Theron and Anusha Rajkaran, two scientists, spend a lot of time in the estuary. They go there to measure and assess the size and condition of the mangroves, even on those damp and muddy days.
Bruce’s adventure at the estuary started in water that was flowing much faster. He arrived at Gxara Falls and bravely descended down the waterfall using ropes, passing by frogs and snakes in the tropical canopy. Eventually, he reached a big pool at the bottom of a canyon. “The canyon is still in its natural state, so we could swim in large pools and climb across massive rocks that have been untouched for years. As a fun challenge, I decided to run along the beach to Wavecrest.”
On my last day at Wavecrest, I had a choice between going to Collywobbles to see the vultures or staying in the estuary to spend time with the trees. I decided to stay and explore the estuary because I had developed a deep appreciation for trees.
When Bruce returned from his trip to Collywobbles, he couldn’t stop raving about it. He said that the drive there was exhilarating and the views were absolutely breathtaking. But what really blew him away was when he arrived at the site. The canyon carved by the Mbhashe River, with the nesting birds perched above, was a sight that took his breath away.
What amazed Bruce even more was the sheer number of vultures that he saw. They were everywhere, floating effortlessly on the warm air currents. Bruce said that he felt like he was surrounded by these magnificent birds. He was so captivated by them that he could have spent days just watching them soar through the sky.
In my day, I used to see all sorts of birds as I paddled up the Nxaxo at sunrise. I remember spotting seven different types of kingfisher, their vibrant colors flashing in the morning light. It was quite a sight. And let’s not forget about the crabs scuttling around on the muddy banks. The mud itself was like a strange, hole-ridden planet, unlike anything I had ever seen.
I was accompanied by two dedicated scientists, Anusha Rajkaran and Wilmari Theron. They were knee-deep in the muddy swamp, meticulously studying saplings and keeping a close eye on the health of the adult mangroves. As I stepped out of the kayak, I couldn’t help but sink into the soft mud. It was a messy adventure, but it allowed me to get a closer look at the mangrove trees.
I marveled at the aerial roots that stretched into the sky, reaching for much-needed oxygen. It was a fascinating sight, but it came at a cost. Some branches of the white mangroves were sacrificing themselves, absorbing too much salt and eventually dying. But this sacrifice allowed the rest of the trees to thrive.
I want to share with you how incredible mangroves are and why they are so important for our environment. Anusha, an expert on the subject, explained to me how mangroves actually help the whole estuary. It’s what they call an “ecosystem service” – a term that describes the way they support the entire ecosystem.
But these mangroves are so much more than just trees. They are a life-giving force that has the power to save us all. It’s a gift from nature that many of us don’t even realize we have. You see, mangroves have this amazing ability to remove carbon from the atmosphere. They take it in and store it in the sediment, like a giant carbon sink.
Now, you might be wondering why this is so important. Well, let me explain. Humans are constantly producing carbon dioxide through our activities, like driving our cars and burning fossil fuels. This carbon dioxide is a major contributor to climate change, which we all know is a serious problem.
But here’s the thing: mangroves help to counteract this carbon footprint. They absorb the carbon dioxide and lock it away in the sediment, preventing it from contributing to climate change. They are like nature’s superheroes, fighting to keep our planet healthy.
So, next time you see a mangrove tree, remember how amazing it is. It’s not just a tree, but a powerful force that can help us in the battle against climate change. Let’s appreciate and protect these incredible mangroves, because they truly have the potential to save our lives.
As I stood face to face with a Cape vulutre at Collywobbles, I couldn’t help but feel a deep connection. This moment marked the end of my journey, bringing me full circle to where it all began. You see, as travel writers, we often find ourselves returning to the places that captivate us the most, creating a beautiful cycle of exploration. For me, that place is a sanctuary of trees.
In this extraordinary love affair with nature, something miraculous happened. Unlike my previous infatuations, this connection was mutual. The towering trees of the forests and the serene estuary not only provided us with their beauty, but they also showered us with abundant gifts. From the bountiful fish that sustain us to the mesmerizing birds that grace our surroundings, they offer countless opportunities for birdwatching, photography, and peaceful adventures on the river.
Each visit to these sacred grounds unravels new chapters of wonder and discovery. It’s an endless source of the best holidays and unforgettable escapades. But amidst all the excitement lies a deeper secret—the secret to life itself.
Discovering the Secrets
Secret 1: The French Wreck
I stumbled upon an incredible book during my visit to the Cape Town library. It’s called “The Narrative of the shipwreck of the French Vessel, the Eole on the Coast of Kaffraria in April 1829” by CE Boniface. What makes this book so remarkable is that it was the first French book and travel narrative ever published in South Africa.
When I discovered the book, I couldn’t help but dive into its pages and lose myself in the captivating story. It recounts the harrowing shipwreck of the French vessel, the Eole, off the coast of Kaffraria in April 1829. The author, Boniface, vividly describes the treacherous waters and the courageous crew’s fight for survival.
The fact that this book was translated from French to English by the Englishman David Culpin adds another layer of intrigue. Culpin’s translation allows English-speaking readers like you and me to experience the dramatic events and remarkable journey of the Eole firsthand.
While the book is filled with gripping accounts of the shipwreck and the crew’s struggles, it also provides valuable insights into the geography and history of South Africa. As I read through its pages, I found myself transported to different landscapes and immersed in the rich culture of the region.
Culpin, the translator, had his own adventure while searching for the shipwreck in 2014. Initially, he followed lines of latitude and longitude that led him to believe the wreck was somewhere in the Karoo. However, with some adjustments, he eventually discovered the true location of the wreck at Sandy Point.
Overall, “The Narrative of the shipwreck of the French Vessel, the Eole on the Coast of Kaffraria in April 1829” is not just a captivating tale of survival and exploration. It’s a significant piece of literature that bridges different cultures and brings an important historical event to life. I highly recommend diving into the pages of this fascinating book and experiencing the awe-inspiring journey of the Eole for yourself.
Did you know that precious stones have an intriguing history?
In the 1920s, a fascinating event unfolded in the region. John Bock, the son of a German settler, stumbled upon a diamond on a floodplain of the Great Kei River. This discovery sparked a diamond fever, attracting prospectors and miners from far and wide. However, their efforts only yielded around 1,000 diamonds. It is speculated that these precious gems originated from the wrecked Grosvenor ship, which sank in Port St Johns in 1782.
Add to the mix a touch of celestial wonder. Africa has become a hotspot for meteorite falls, with 158 observed falls recorded since 1800. And guess what? The largest meteorite in the world, weighing a whopping 60 tons, proudly stands near Grootfontein in Namibia. This tremendous meteorite, named the ‘Hoba,’ serves as a majestic reminder of the mysteries and marvels that come crashing down from the heavens above.
When I look down the smaller Ngqusi River and see it flowing into the Nxaxo, right in front of the Wavecrest Hotel, I can’t help but feel excited. If you wake up early in the morning, you might be lucky enough to spot seven different species of kingfisher, including the elusive mangrove kingfisher.
Meet the Local Heroes
The Transkei Cowboys
I want to introduce you to Bruce Viaene, a photographer from East London. Bruce has been visiting Wavecrest since he was a kid, and he even got married in the Ndlezana Forest. Any chance he gets, Bruce brings his wife and two daughters here. He’s passionate about adventure photography and has joined forces with Christo Van der Ham, a survivor of a shark attack, and Tagan Smith, a travel guide and surf instructor. Together, they’re creating a series of short films to showcase the wonders of the Wild Coast. Bruce explains, “Not many people know about the Kei Mouth and Wavecrest area. Our goal is to share the stories of the wonderful people who call this place home and let the world know about the incredible experiences it has to offer. The Eastern Cape has been hit hard by Covid-19, and tourism is a major part of its economy. We wanted to lend a hand. Even if people are hesitant to travel right now, they can still join us on our adventures through Youtube. And hopefully, in the near future, they’ll feel confident enough to come here and experience it themselves.”
The Cowboys & compadres
Sean Pike
I’m Sean Pike, and let me tell you, I’m a man who never stops. I’m always on the move, taking people on incredible adventures through the estuary. Whether it’s searching for kingfishers or rescuing wayward kayaks, I’m always ready for anything. But there’s one particular memory that stands out to me.
Once, while I was leading a group through the forest, I had a close encounter with a very unhappy night adder. I nearly stepped on it, but luckily, I managed to stop just inches away. The woman behind me, however, wasn’t so lucky. She walked right into me, which caused me to stumble and fall onto the snake. The enraged adder struck at me multiple times, but in my unbalanced state, I somehow managed to use my boot to shield myself from its venomous fangs.
Now, here’s where things get really interesting. While I was standing there, one-legged and fending off the snake, the young lady did something surprising. She climbed up me like a ladder, using my legs as her footholds. Within moments, she was on my back. It was a bizarre sight, like a two-headed dancing giant. And believe me, that snake wasted no time getting out of there!
Hello, I’m Dinala Bistoli!
I’ve been a tour guide since 2003, leading hikers from the Wavecrest Hotel through the forests and along the cliffs to the Kobonqaba River. From there, we continue along the beach until we reach Trennerys. I was born and raised in Nombanjana village, which means I know this place like the back of my hand. Every plant, bird, and animal that calls this land and sea home, I know them all. And let me tell you, I’m fiercely protective of this natural haven.
Over the years, I’ve had to chase off abalone thieves who dared to plunder our rocks. And those strelitzia thieves? They quickly learned not to mess with our forests. In my village, most folks are either farmers or make a living as tour guides or porters on slackpacking routes. And some of us, myself included, fish and sell mussels and oysters to the hotels along the coast.
This land that we share is a special place, and I take great pride in showing it to hikers like you. So, if you’re ready for an unforgettable adventure guided by someone who knows every inch of this mesmerizing landscape, then I’m your guy. Together, we’ll explore the wonders of Nombanjana village and create memories that will stay with you long after you leave.
Trip Planner
Hey there! I recently went on an incredible hiking adventure called the Wildcoast Meander. It lasted for five days and took me from Kobb Inn to Morgan Bay, with stops at Mazeppa Bay, Wavecrest, and Trennerys. If you’re looking for more options, you can also try the Wild Coast Pondo Walk and the Wild Coast Amble. Trust me, these are awesome choices for a memorable journey.
But wait, there’s more! Have you ever considered horseback riding on the beach? At Wild Coast Horseback Adventures, you can have beginner rides right on the beach. If you want something more, they offer day rides from Kei Mouth to Trennerys Hotel or Gxara Falls, mini-trails, and even week-long rides between Kobb Inn and Kei Mouth. This is a truly unique experience that you don’t want to miss!
If any of these options sound appealing to you, I’ve got the contact information right here. For the Wildcoast Meander and other hiking trips, you can reach the organizers at 043 743 6181 or visit wildcoastholiday.co.za/listing/wild_coast_holiday_hiking. And if horseback riding is more your thing, get in touch with Wild Coast Horseback Adventures at 082 567 0972 or check out their website at wildcoasthorsebackadventures.com. Don’t miss out on these incredible opportunities to explore the stunning Wild Coast!
Hey there! I’m into organizing cycling tours in the area.
Give me a call at 033 329 5259
or check out active-escapes.co.za.
If you prefer, you can also rent a bike from Wavecrest Hotel.
Hey there! I’m here to tell you all about the amazing adventures you can have at Gxara Falls. Get ready for an exhilarating abseiling experience like no other!
At Morgan Bay Adventures, we pride ourselves on organizing abseiling activities that cater to people of all ages and experience levels. Whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned pro, we’ve got you covered. And the best part? We offer so much more than just abseiling!
With around 500 short climbing routes to choose from, there’s always a new challenge waiting for you. You can test your skills and push yourself to new heights while surrounded by the breathtaking beauty of Gxara Falls.
But wait, there’s more! If you’re a lover of nature, you won’t want to miss our boat and kayaking trips from Wavecrest. Hop on board and explore the stunning estuary, where you’ll have the chance to spot beautiful kingfishers and a variety of other fascinating birds.
Imagine gliding through the water, surrounded by the sounds of nature and the gentle rhythm of your paddle. It’s an experience that will leave you feeling peaceful and connected to the world around you. And guess what? Our kayaks are completely free for our guests to use!
And that’s not all. Our hotel also organizes incredible 4×4 trips to the Collywobbles Cape vulture Colony. This is your chance to witness these majestic birds in their natural habitat, an experience that will truly leave you in awe.
So what are you waiting for? Pick up the phone and give us a call at 078 296 4906 to book your adventure today! You can also check out our website at morgan-bay-adventures-ptyltd.business.site for more information.
And remember, Wavecrest is the place to be for all your kayaking needs. Book your trip now by calling 047 498 0022 or visiting wavecrest.co.za. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!
When you visit Wavecrest, you’ll find yourself surrounded by a rich history of shipwrecks. Here, you can explore the remains of notable wrecks like the Boundless (2013), Jacaranda (1971), the Talana (1934), and the Eole (1829).
Come Stay at Wavecrest
If you’re looking for accommodation near Nxaxo Estuary, the Wavecrest Hotel is your best option.
Wavecrest Hotel Rates
During high season: you can enjoy a comfortable stay starting at R1,500 per person, sharing, with meals included (DBB).
During low season: you’ll find rates ranging from R750 to R1,000 per person, sharing, with meals included (DBB).
If you have any questions or would like to book, you can reach us at 047 498 0022 or visit our website at wavecrest.co.za.
For those who enjoy hiking, there are other nearby hotels that you can easily walk to.
Welcome to Trennerys Hotel!
In the high season, you can enjoy our accommodations for R1,450 per person (DBB), while in the low season, it’s R1,005 per person (DBB). If camping is your thing, you can join us for only R295 per adult. For more information or to make a booking, give us a call at 047 498 0004 or visit trennerys.co.za.
Experience Mazeppa Bay Hotel!
During the high season, you have the opportunity to share a room for prices ranging from R890 to R1,550 per person. All meals are included. In the low season, you can still enjoy our offerings for R760 to R1,100 per person, also with meals included. To find out more or to make a reservation, please call us at 047 498 0033 or visit mazeppabay.com.
