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Discovering the Allure of Paarl: An Enchanting Guide
Welcome, dear traveler, to the hidden gem known as Paarl, an idyllic town nestled amidst vine-covered hills and rich historical heritage. As you set foot on this enchanting destination, prepare to embark on a journey that will captivate your senses and leave you yearning for more.
Intriguing and diverse, Paarl offers a tapestry of experiences that will undoubtedly satisfy your wanderlust. From world-class wineries to breathtaking landscapes, this guide will unveil the treasures awaiting your exploration.
Vineyard Adventures
It’s time to awaken your taste buds and immerse yourself in Paarl’s renowned wine culture. With an abundance of vineyards dotted across the rolling hills, this picturesque region invites you to savor its prize-winning wines and indulge in unforgettable cellar tours. Lose yourself in the aromatic symphony of red, white, and sparkling vintages as you learn the delicate art of winemaking from passionate experts.
But the vineyards of Paarl offer more than just wine. Tranquil picnics amidst the picturesque landscapes, surrounded by bountiful vineyards and majestic mountains, await your arrival. Indulge in a sensory feast as you savor gourmet delights perfectly complemented by Paarl’s finest wines. Truly, a feast for the senses!
History and Heritage
Step back in time and immerse yourself in the rich history and heritage that defines Paarl. As you stroll along the Oak-lined streets of this charming town, you will encounter beautifully preserved Cape Dutch architecture, a testament to its colonial past.
A visit to the legendary Paarl Rock is an absolute must. As the second-largest granite outcrop in the world, this geological wonder stands as a silent witness to history, offering sweeping views of the verdant landscape below. Whether you choose to hike to the summit or simply admire its grandeur from afar, Paarl Rock will leave you in awe.
Nature’s Playground
For those seeking an escape into nature, Paarl presents an outdoor playground like no other. Lace up your hiking boots and venture into the Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve, where breathtaking vistas and an abundance of flora and fauna await you.
Explore the well-marked trails that snake through rugged mountains, dense forests, and pristine fynbos landscapes. As you ascend to higher altitudes, be rewarded with panoramic views that stretch as far as the eye can see. Don’t forget your camera; these vistas are simply begging to be captured!
Final Thoughts
Paarl isn’t just a destination; it’s an invitation to dive into a world of sensory delights, history, and natural beauty. So, dear traveler, pack your sense of adventure and embark on a journey that will immerse you in the allure of Paarl. A place where you can sip on exquisite wines, wander through history, and soak in the wonders of nature. Paarl eagerly awaits your arrival!
Hey there, I’m Fred Hatman, and I’ve got some exciting new discoveries to share with you from the picturesque town of Paarl in the Cape winelands. Join me on this journey as we explore the hidden gems of this unassuming destination.
First things first, let me just clarify something: the prices I mention here are meant to give you a rough idea, but it’s worth noting that they can change at the owner’s whim. So, make sure to double-check with the individual establishments before you make your booking.
When I think of Paarl, I can’t help but associate it with all the exciting activities it offers. There is no shortage of adventure here, especially if you’re into mountain biking. The trails cater to all skill levels, from beginners to seasoned experts.
Let me take you back to a family vacation we had in 1973. We packed ourselves into our trusty beige Chevrolet sedan and made the journey from Pietermaritzburg to the Cape. It was quite the experience, although I can’t say the same for the car. To be fair, my dad didn’t have a plastic orange hanging from the antenna. But aside from that, I have three distinct memories from that trip we took during my high school days.
I have a few vivid memories that stick out in my mind. The first one takes me back to the Nahoon River mouth in East London. I remember zooming down the sand dunes on pieces of corrugated iron with my friend Anthony Maguire. It was an absolute blast, an experience I won’t forget.
Another memory that stands out is my trip to Table Mountain. I was a bit afraid of heights, but I gathered the courage to take the old cable car all the way to the top. The view was breathtaking, and despite my nervousness, I couldn’t help but feel amazed. It was truly an unforgettable experience.
But one memory that really made me think was a drive back to Natal. As we were passing Paarl, my father pointed to a mountain on the left and said, ‘Look, they’re building the Afrikaans Taal Monument.’ I looked out the window and saw concrete fingers reaching towards the sky. I couldn’t help but wonder, why?
I silently pondered the significance of this monument, while my sister couldn’t contain her curiosity. She eagerly asked my father, ‘What’s that, Dad?’
My father replied with excitement, ‘It’s a monument dedicated to the Afrikaans language, my dear.’
When I first heard about a monument being built to celebrate a language, I found it strange. It was a language that I rarely heard spoken in Pietermaritzburg, except for by the schoolteacher who taught it. Occasionally, I would hear some boys from Voortrekker High School speak it when we played cricket and rugby against them twice a year. The Taal Monument seemed like a symbol of everything the nationalist government held dear, which made me question its purpose.
So, when I was asked to write a guide to Paarl, I decided to visit the Taal Monument to try and understand it better. As I drove my old Mercedes up the mountain, I felt a heaviness in my chest. A man wearing a very bright shirt was operating the security gate, and I half-expected him to introduce himself as Frikkie and tell me that Englishmen like me were not welcome. Old prejudices are hard to overcome.
Well, what a surprise to wake up to! A cheerful voice greeted me through my half-opened car window. “Good morning, sir,” he said with a beaming smile, sticking his paw out for a handshake. “I’m Howard.”
I was taken aback, to say the least.
“Oh, hi there, Fred. Isabeau is waiting for you at the Visitors’ Center. Let me show you the way,” he continued.
I couldn’t help but think that this was some sort of trick, a clever ploy to bait me and teach me a lesson for my occasional grumbles about the Blou Bulle and Steve Hofmeyr.
Isabeau Botha, the marketing manager for the Taal Monument, appeared from the Visitors’ Center, wearing a wide smile and extending a warm welcome. In English. I’m sorry, but I just had to blink. And then I took a deep breath, trying to recover my composure. To make matters worse, I quickly switched to my very best Afrikaans, the kind you’d expect from KwaZulu-Natal. Isabeau just giggled politely and introduced me to Veronique Hendriks, my tour guide for the day.
Veronique was so great! She knew everything about her language and the big monument above us. It reached up into the cloudy sky. We walked carefully past a fancy photoshoot inside the cool center of the monument. Veronique showed me three hills on the east side of the open platform.
‘Those hills are for the Khoi, Nguni, and Sotho people,’ she said, ‘They represent how their languages influenced Afrikaans.’
‘I didn’t know that,’ I said.
She laughed and said, ‘Guess what? When they opened this monument in 1975, some important white Afrikaans writers said they wouldn’t come if colored writers weren’t invited too. The prime minister at the time, BJ Vorster, was going to give a speech.’
‘So,’ I said to Veronique, ‘Adam Small’s poem Nkosi sikelel’ iAfrika was recited during the ceremony.’ Veronique needed assistance from someone at the fashion shoot, giving me an opportunity to make my way up the path behind the monument and stand between the towering rocks. From this slightly higher vantage point, I gazed at the majestic spires. These rock formations, reaching towards the sky, do not invoke a personal connection within me. Nevertheless, I came to realize that they were erected as a testament to the pride of a culture that had once faced the threat of being marginalized in a country that holds such significance for its people, a country that is undeniably their home.
When I first encountered it, I had mixed feelings. This town in the wine country, with its grand tribute to Afrikaans, is often misunderstood. People tend to overlook it in favor of the more sophisticated Franschhoek or the educational ambiance of Stellenbosch. These places boast fancy restaurants, trendy art galleries, and stylish sidewalk cafes. Yet, it is unfair to dismiss this charming town that has managed to maintain its down-to-earth, authentic vibe, focused on producing exceptional wine. It also offers superb dining options, impressive art galleries, and cozy coffee shops that can compete with any others. Moreover, there are breathtaking hikes and trails available in the nearby nature reserves.
Paarl has it all, I tell you. And it’s not just because of the Taal Monument. The places I visited and the people I met showed me that this old Boland town has carved out its own spot without trying to overshadow its more famous neighbors. As I drove back home, feeling happier and more enlightened, I couldn’t help but feel a little smug as I passed through fancy old Franschhoek.
Plan your trip
Getting to Paarl
If you’re coming from Cape Town, just hop on the N1 and keep going for about 61km until you reach Exit 55. Take a left at the stop sign, and voila, you’re on Main Street in Paarl. If you’re coming from Franschhoek, just follow the R45 for 35km. And if you’re in Stellenbosch, it’s a quick 32km drive on the R44. Wellington isn’t too far either, just 14km away on the R44 and R45.
What to do in Paarl
You may have heard of popular wine farms like KWV and Nederburg, but there are also some hidden gems to explore. One such gem is Mellasat, known for their unique white pinotage. If you’re curious about how this came to be, just ask the British owner Stephen Richardson. Another nearby treasure is Olsen Private Vineyards, which has an interesting connection to space. Dr. Greg Olsen, the owner, is not only an entrepreneur and scientist but also the third private citizen to visit the International Space Station. He even took his daughters along for the ride. Mellasat, Olsen, and several other smaller estates are part of the Off The Beaten Track Journey on the Paarl Wine Route. Make sure to check out their newly launched routes.
When it comes to art, Hout Street Gallery is an absolute treasure trove. You’ll be amazed by the incredible selection of high-quality artwork on display.
2. Discover the Magic of Hout Street Gallery
Hout Street Gallery is a unique place where you can find a delightful mix of ceramics, crafts, and stunning artworks. As you step inside, you’ll be greeted by a charming shop filled to the brim with beautiful creations. But don’t stop there – venture further into the back rooms, where a captivating collection of art awaits. It was in this hidden oasis that I stumbled upon a true masterpiece: Ryno Swart’s “The Violinist.” This artwork immediately captured my attention and drew me in. The painting portrayed a delicate and sensual violinist, her strings vibrating with emotion as she played the most enchanting melodies. It was a truly mesmerizing experience.
If you’re craving more artistic delights, Paarl is home to several other incredible galleries. Take a trip to the De Kraal Gallery & Studio, the Glen Carlou Art Museum, or the Orange Mill Art Gallery – each of these establishments offers something unique and worth exploring. Prepare to be amazed by the immense talent and creativity that flows through these spaces.
3. Uncover the Beauty of Babylonstoren
When you visit Babylonstoren, you’ll discover an extraordinary adventure on a wine estate owned by the former Naspers boss Koos Bekker and his wife, Karen Roos, who used to be the editor of Elle Decoration. The estate’s beautifully preserved three-hectare garden is home to over 300 varieties of plants, all of which are edible. And don’t miss the opportunity to dine at Babel, their superb restaurant.
If you find yourself in the Boland, make sure not to miss out on Babylonstoren. This place is a must-visit, and you absolutely have to try the incredible Babel restaurant they have.
4. Enjoy a Picnic at the Taal Monument
But when I say picnic, I don’t mean just boring old boiled eggs and blankets. The Taal Monument has so much more to offer when it comes to outdoor eating. They host a variety of events centered around picnics. You can attend picnic concerts, watch movies at their picnic events, or even experience magical full-moon picnics. They’ve got picnic events for stargazing enthusiasts and even fire-dancing fanatics. And that’s not all! They also have hiking trails, exhibitions, heritage projects, and workshops where you can learn and have fun.
5. Take a Hike
If you’re a nature lover and enjoy the great outdoors, you’ll be delighted to know that there are some beautiful trails nearby. Explore the Limietberg Nature Reserve and the Paarl Mountain Nature Reserve. And if you’re feeling extra adventurous, challenge yourself with an abseiling experience down Paarl Rock. You won’t be disappointed!
6. Discover Het Gesticht
In Main Street, you’ll find a charming little church called Het Gesticht. It was constructed in 1813 and served as a place of worship and community for slaves. Today, it stands as a monument, reminding us of our shared history.
7. Explore Frater Square
Frater Square is a shopping center that has an interesting origin story. It was once an old pack shed built back in 1845. As you walk through, you’ll see the usual shops like Primi Piatti, hair salons, travel agents, and dry cleaners. But there are also some unique gems to discover, like Melissa’s The Food Shop, known for its top-notch coffee, and a clothing boutique with a Parisian flair called Wild Orchid. Blanc de Blanc is a wonderful decor shop, and if you’re in the mood for wine, head to The Thirsty Cyclist.
Paarl is home to a variety of great coffee shops, but the standout option is Bean In Love. This charming space used to be a church and has since been transformed into a light and airy coffee shop.
Where to grab a bite in Paarl
1. Kikka
Located on Main Street, Kikka is a trendy and artistic eatery with retro vibes. The stylish sofas, bleached wood tables, and groovy decor create a unique atmosphere.
Contact: Tel 021 872 0685
2. Bean In Love
If you head north on Main Street, you’ll discover Bean In Love. This former Baptist Church has been transformed by Werner Pauw into a sleek and modern two-level coffee shop. You can enjoy exceptional coffees and delicious lunches here. They also offer a selection of traditional South African sweets for sale.
Contact: Tel 021 872 0987
3. Tea Under The Trees
If you travel even further north on the main road, you’ll discover a charming place called Tea Under The Trees. As the name implies, it’s a delightful spot for enjoying a cup of tea in a serene outdoor setting. It’s a place where you can relax and unwind, surrounded by nature’s beauty.
Contact: Give them a call at 082 825 5666
4. Juno Bistro and Bakery
If you’re looking for a great place to have breakfast or lunch, Juno Bistro and Bakery is a local favorite. Not only does it serve delicious meals, but it also showcases the incredible artwork of Tertia du Toit. The atmosphere is cozy and inviting, making it the perfect spot to enjoy a tasty meal and appreciate some beautiful art.
Contact: Give them a call at 021 872 0697
When you step onto the shady and inviting veranda of Noop, you can feel Zian Oosthuizen’s love and talent for cooking. This is a place that attracts food lovers from all over, thanks to its delicious and unique dishes.
5. Noop
Noop offers a wonderful mix of traditional South African meals and more adventurous options. Zian Oosthuizen and Mariëtte van den Bergh, a dynamic and energetic couple, took over this Main Street restaurant in 2012. Their passion for cooking knows no bounds, and it shines through in every dish they create. Daddy’s Deals even featured Noop on their new blog, which highlights the best restaurants in Paarl. So, you know you’re in for a treat here.
Contact: Tel 021 863 3925
When it comes to mouthwatering meat dishes, the braais at Chippa’s Place are truly one-of-a-kind. But don’t let that be the only reason you pay a visit here. Trust me, there is so much more to experience and enjoy at this hidden gem.
6. Chippa’s Place
If you’re someone who prefers a nice cold beer and a delicious chop, then this is the place for you. Take a drive towards Wellington and head to the Mbekweni township. Ask any local resident, and they’ll be more than happy to point you in the right direction – Chippa’s Place. Lucky for me, I had the chance to meet Chippa Mlata himself. He used to sell airtime but was pushed out of the business by bigger companies. However, he didn’t let that discourage him. Instead, he decided to open a small butchery with a restaurant. And guess what? It’s not just a restaurant anymore. Chippa’s Place has gone above and beyond, offering a dancehall with live DJs, a braai area, a bottle store, an open-air eating area, and several chill-out lounges. Trust me, you have to give it a try. You won’t regret it.
Contact: Tel 082 454 0585
7. Moksh
Moksh is famous for their delicious curry. When I was in Paarl, I made a reservation there for my last night. Unfortunately, the power went out due to load shedding, but that didn’t dampen our spirits. They moved the tables outside into the courtyard, which was lit beautifully by the moon and candles. The kitchen was buzzing with activity as the chefs worked tirelessly. I absolutely loved my experience at Moksh and I highly recommend it. If you want to get in touch, you can call them at 021 872 4548.
Now, let’s talk about where to stay in Paarl.
1. Rodeberg Lodge: This cozy Victorian house is a national monument and it’s located right on the Main Street. It’s a short walk away from amazing restaurants. The breakfasts at Rodeberg Lodge are delicious and you can find relief from the hot Paarl weather in their shady, leafy garden.
2. Berg River Resort: If you’re looking for a place to stay with beautiful views of the Berg River, this is the place for you. The resort offers comfortable accommodations and it’s a great option for families. You’ll have a wonderful time relaxing and enjoying the natural surroundings.
When I visited the Berg River Resort, I was excited to experience the camping and caravanning scene. Unfortunately, the strong winds prevented me from staying there with my caravan. Nonetheless, I decided to explore the resort and see what I had missed. And oh boy, there was so much fun to be had!
The resort offers a variety of swimming options, which would have been perfect to beat the scorching heat in the Paarl Valley. Along with the refreshing river, there is also a fantastic Olympic-size pool available for guests. Whether you prefer the calmness of the river or the thrill of a pool, Berg River Resort has got you covered.
If camping and caravanning are not your cup of tea, don’t worry! The resort also offers charming family chalets that come equipped with kitchens or cooking facilities. Plus, you can enjoy a traditional South African braai to complete the experience.
3. Grande Roche Hotel
If you’re looking for a luxurious getaway, look no further than the Grande Roche Hotel. This place is a true gem. Nestled on a picturesque wine farm, the hotel offers four different styles of accommodation for you to choose from – studio, terrace, garden, and duplex.
As soon as you step foot in the hotel, you’ll be greeted by beautifully manicured gardens and breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. The attention to detail and five-star amenities ensure a truly luxurious experience.
Whether you’re in the mood for a peaceful retreat or a romantic escape, the Grande Roche Hotel will exceed your expectations. It’s the perfect place to unwind, indulge, and create unforgettable memories.
Hey, I published Fred’s article in the March 2015 issue of Getaway magazine.
Just a heads up, all the prices I mention here were accurate when I wrote this, but things might have changed since then. It’s always a good idea to double-check with the places you’re interested in before you go.
