Journeys in the Okavango Delta: A Tale of Elephants and Men

The boats were all prepped and we were raring to go as we cruised down the winding channels of the Okavango Delta in Botswana. The night before, I indulged in some deliciously crispy roast potatoes, meticulously cooked by the incredible team at Nguma Island Lodge. As I lay in bed that night, a sense of anticipation filled me as I pondered what adventures awaited me in the morning.

When I heard the lions roaring in the distance, it sent a shiver down my spine. Even though I knew I was safe in my tent, there was something instinctive about their powerful voices that commanded respect. Nookie’s pet hippo, always in search of food, came sniffing around my tent. At one point, she found the poles supporting my tent and decided they were perfect for scratching her back. As she went about her satisfying task, the whole floor trembled beneath me, making it impossible to sleep peacefully that night. I couldn’t shake off my apprehension about what lay ahead on my journey.

It was way too early for my liking when I was rudely awakened and told that it was time to leave. I reluctantly crawled out of my sleeping bag, still half asleep, and waited for instructions. We hurriedly ate breakfast and loaded the final items onto the boat. Then, we hopped in and set off across Guma Lagoon just as the sun began to rise. The wind whipped against my face as Greg, our guide, accelerated and the boat sliced through the water. It was exhilarating to speed through the open water. But then, we entered the narrow channels flanked by tall reeds, and they seemed to have a vendetta against my head. They pelted me with insects and incessantly smacked me in the face. Oblivious to their intentions, I curiously asked Greg about the tiny seeds constantly landing on me. His response sent me into a frenzy. “Um, Sam, those aren’t seeds, they’re spiders.” It was a moment of sheer terror as I let out a high-pitched scream, frantically swatting at myself and accidentally knocking things over in the boat, inadvertently giving the spiders a hasty flight back into the Delta.

So there I was, completely unaware of the sizzling happening to my body. I mean, seriously, I thought I was getting a nice golden tan, but boy was I wrong! Instead of looking like a bronze goddess, my embarrassingly pale skin turned the color of a boiling lobster. And let me tell you, it wasn’t a pretty sight.

That painful sunburn haunted me for the rest of the trip. My poor nose couldn’t stop peeling, and I had to hide it in every single photograph. To make matters worse, my hair decided to rebel and turn into a frizzy mess. I must have looked like a scary bush lady! But hey, at least it kept all the creatures at bay.

It was the late afternoon, and the sun was starting to sink in the sky. I needed to find a place to set up camp. I arrived at one of the islands, but the only way to reach the shore was through a narrow and very shallow channel. I got out of my boat and pushed it to the shore, keeping an eye out for crocodiles. The island was absolutely beautiful. There was an ancient baobab tree in the center of a clearing surrounded by bushes and trees. I started unpacking my boat, slowly setting everything up. A couple of friends went to gather firewood while the rest of us continued unpacking. Suddenly, Roger came running out of the trees, shouting, “There’s an elephant chasing after me!”

“Don’t be silly, Roger,” his wife replied, rolling her eyes. “You’re always up to your tricks.” Roger was known for his tall tales and practical jokes. But just a few seconds later, Bernie came running out of the trees, followed by a big and clearly angry bull elephant. It quickly became clear that Roger wasn’t joking this time. We all rushed to the boats, but they were stuck in the shallow water. The bull stared at us, trumpeted, flapped its ears, and pretended to charge. Somehow, I managed to move one of the boats all on my own, even though four grown men hadn’t been able to do it before. It’s incredible what a charging elephant can motivate you to do! We all piled into the boat and managed to push it out of the shallow channel and into deeper water just as the elephant came dangerously close. But our situation was far from ideal. We were in the water, with the elephant watching our every move and blocking our access to all of our camping gear. We stayed in the water for over an hour, moving from one side of the campsite to the other, all the while the bull elephant stayed close by on land. The sun was setting, and things were starting to look desperate. Finally, the elephant let out one last trumpet and gave us a disgusted look before slowly walking back into the trees. We had no idea how far it had gone, so we had to act quickly. We poled our way back through the shallow channel to the shore and packed up our things in record time. We couldn’t stay on that island, so we had to quickly move to the neighboring island and start a fire before it got too dark.

So, the rest of the night wasn’t really exciting. We made a fire and set up our tents just before it got dark. Then, we cooked some pasta and went to bed early.

The following day, we started packing up our campsite. As we were doing that, Jan happened to look into the thick bushes around us and noticed a group of elephants quietly observing us. It’s still mind-boggling to me how such huge animals can move so silently. When I told my friend about it later, he found it hilarious. He couldn’t believe that we could miss seeing an elephant! But in their natural habitat, they can easily blend in and disappear.

I was camping with the elephants nearby. As we were leaving, the mama elephant went to her favorite tree and shook off the fruit. We then headed back to the river and saw crocs, kingfishers, and fish eagles. We entered some narrow channels surrounded by reeds, never knowing what we would find around the next corner. We came across a happy elephant drinking in the shallows and were charged by an aggressive male hippo protecting his family. Finally, we made it to our island destination, but it was difficult to navigate through the shallow channels. The view was amazing though, with reeds covering a large pool of water and other islands around us. We set up camp, enjoyed a delicious brunch, and discussed our plans for the day. Some wanted to go for a walk, even though the floodwaters made it challenging. Walking into lions is common here, but I wasn’t too keen on the idea. Being small, I figured they would see me as an easy lunch. Greg told me a story about encountering a mother lion with cubs and how they backed away slowly. I had no desire to test that theory, literally or figuratively.

So, there we were, all geared up in our hiking outfits. I dressed in shades of brown and green, trying my best to blend in with the environment like a living tree. We hopped aboard the boat and maneuvered through the shallow water towards the neighboring island. When we couldn’t go any further with the boat, we rolled up our sleeves, took off our shoes, and trudged through the muddy water towards the shore.

Once we reached land, we cautiously surveyed the trees and bushes around us. With the coast clear, we formed a single line and began our trek. I spotted a fallen tree and leaped onto it, giving me a good vantage point to observe our path. But I soon realized that a wide expanse of water lay ahead, blocking our way. In the distance, I saw an elephant rummaging through the trees for its next meal. To our left, a group of impalas stood gracefully, alert to every sound. And on the horizon, a herd of zebras roamed and grazed in the vast grassland.

Surely, a little – or rather a lot – of water wouldn’t deter Greg. He fearlessly waded into the flooded grass, with the water rising steadily until it reached his thighs. Being taller, I knew that once I entered the water, I would be swimming more than walking. Holding my breath, I ventured into the muddy, murky lake, tangled reeds brushing against my legs. The water kept rising until it reached my belly button. As I made my way across, I could feel tiny creatures gliding past me, and slimy weeds latching onto my sneakers. But I powered through, finally reaching the other side.

I settled on top of a tall termite mound, watching as the rest of the group made their own daring crossings. From my elevated position, I also hoped to spot our mischievous elephant friend, whose presence had accompanied us from afar.

He was just right there, hiding in the bushes. We found him as we were walking along the path. We had to be careful not to startle him. Elephants are interesting creatures. They have a lot in common with humans. They’re smart and playful, but they can also be unpredictable. I thought about what I should do if the elephant noticed me. I remembered that elephants can’t see very well, so I could hide behind a tree or an anthill. I followed the others and we quietly passed by the elephant, using the trees and anthills as cover. Luckily, he didn’t see us. We continued our walk and came across a family of Kudu grazing in the tall grass. There was also a big, old baobab tree with its bark stripped off by elephants. On the other side of the clearing, there was another forest. As we walked towards it, a group of impala suddenly ran away with their graceful leaps.

Surrounded by towering leadwood, sausage, and camel thorn trees, we found ourselves enveloped in a cool, speckled shade. It was a relief after standing under the hot sun. The air was alive with the calls of various birds, their melodious voices filling the air. Among them, we spotted a vibrant lilac-breasted roller, a mischievous crested barbet, the gentle cooing of red-eyed doves, and the colorful little bee-eaters. There was also the black-fronted bulbul, with its distinctive song. But what we were truly hoping to catch sight of was the elusive Pel’s fishing owl.

This bird, rare and beautiful, resembled a reddish-brown, giant, flying teddy bear. As a newcomer to the world of birdwatching, I must confess that I don’t always understand what all the excitement is about. However, when we finally stumbled upon the majestic Pel’s fishing owl, I couldn’t help but be captivated by its splendor. It took us a good forty minutes of searching, but the moment we laid our eyes on that remarkable creature, I knew it was worth every second. Now, I keep a feather I found on the forest floor as a memento on my desk. Every time I glance at it, it transports me back to the Delta, bringing back memories of that unforgettable encounter.

So, we headed back to camp after an eventful day of exploring. We were feeling a bit tired but still had some energy left for a late snack. The afternoon was spent lounging around at the campsite, sharing stories with each other. It was a relaxing time.

At one point, I decided to take a little stroll on our small island. As I walked, I suddenly saw a honey badger darting off into the undergrowth. It happened so quickly that it was like a blur of silver and black. Then, to my delight, I spotted our resident fish eagle perched on one of the trees. It was a beautiful sight.

As night fell, we could hear the lions waking up for their hunt. Their roars filled the air and they were calling to each other. It was an eerie but exciting experience. We watched as the sky transformed into a stunning blend of pink and purple, casting a magical reflection on the water. The whole scene was simply breathtaking.

On our little island, we had a hippo we affectionately named Dorothy. Every night, she would venture out to find food. It was always a fascinating sight to see her lumbering around. And in the midst of it all, we could hear the delicate song of a tiny skops owl. Its melodic tunes added a peaceful touch to the night.

Feeling adventurous, we decided that the next day we would explore the island where we had heard the lions. We felt determined to find them and see them up close. It was going to be a thrilling adventure.

I woke up to a bone-chilling sound – it seemed like the lions were attacking a baby elephant. The cries and warning calls from the elephants were both eerie and overwhelming. The hyenas added to the macabre atmosphere with their haunting howls. I heard something rustling outside our tent. Needless to say, that night’s sleep was far from peaceful.

After waking up, we had breakfast. Bernie amazed us with his bread-making skills. He created a dough and cooked it in a hole in the ground surrounded by burning coals, conjuring a delicious aroma. We then used poles to maneuver our boat to the neighboring island. As we began our walk, we quickly realized the island was waterlogged. Consequently, we had to roll up our pants, take off our socks and shoes, and wade through thigh-high water. The water was quite chilly, and I couldn’t help but step on slimy things underneath. Despite my apprehension, I safely reached the other side and we arrived at the entrance of a dense, enclosed forest. This situation left us all on edge. The forest was so thick that it wouldn’t offer an easy escape if we happened upon any lions or elephants. Greg was brave enough to scout ahead, but I still felt uneasy. This experience pushed me far out of my comfort zone. It made me realize that, in a situation like this, trust is not only required for the people around you but also for yourself.

As I walked through the forest, hoping to catch a glimpse of some wildlife, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of emptiness. Despite the chirping of a few birds, the forest seemed strangely quiet. Stepping out of the trees, I found myself surrounded by tall grass that reached higher than my height. I remained vigilant, always on the lookout for any signs of lions.

I climbed atop a termite mound and surveyed the breathtaking delta that lay before me. The vibrant colors and lively atmosphere filled me with awe and wonder. My mind was captivated by the beauty of the surroundings, as I took in the sights and sounds.

On our way back, Greg took the lead, and that turned out to be a stroke of luck. Suddenly, he spotted an elephant bull just 20 meters away from us. The majestic creature had noticed our presence, and flapped its ears in a warning gesture. It let out a powerful trumpeting sound and charged towards us with alarming speed.

In a frenzy of fear, I forgot all the instructions I had been given. Without thinking, I ran through the tall grass, paying no attention to the potential danger lurking within. My only focus was to escape the charging elephant. However, my hasty retreat led to a clumsy fall, leaving me lying flat on my face. Yet, Greg quickly rushed to my aid and helped me up. We sought refuge amidst some nearby trees, concealing ourselves from our pursuer.

The charging elephant eventually lost interest and ambled away, leaving us unharmed. It was a heart-pounding experience, a reminder of the unpredictable nature of the wild. I couldn’t help but feel a mix of fear and exhilaration coursing through my veins as we made our way back to safety.

When we returned to the boat, we set off towards our camp. The guys thought it would be a good idea to go fishing, and they managed to catch six delicious bream. We decided to cook them up and have them for lunch, along with Bernie’s fresh bread. As we sat there enjoying our meal, we could spot some giraffes moving around on the nearby island. There was also a large herd of wildebeest grazing nearby.

As the evening approached, we embarked on a boat trip down the river to catch the sunset. It was truly a mesmerizing sight as the sky burst with vibrant colors. We brought along some beers to make the experience even more enjoyable. Later on, we prepared my all-time favorite dish – a pot-roast fillet.

I woke up early one morning, ready to immerse myself in the beauty of the forest through painting. As I set up my easel and started working, a lone elephant wandered into view, about ten meters away from me. Surprised, I slowly backed away, leaving my art supplies behind.

It seemed that this elephant had taken a liking to our island. Later in the day, he boldly walked into our campsite. We all retreated towards the back of the forest, finding refuge behind a massive termite mound. From our hiding spot, we observed the magnificent creature, enjoying its presence while watching the birds around us.

The elephant spent a good hour and a half indulging in a delicious meal from a jackal berry tree located right in the heart of our campsite. It was a captivating sight. After satisfying his hunger, the elephant gracefully walked into the water, embarking on a leisurely swim to another nearby island.

In the Okavango, there aren’t any bathrooms available, and I found myself in a rather uncomfortable situation with Greg. I had to call him over, holding a spade in one hand and a lighter in the other, just in case we encountered any dangerous creatures. While we did have a make-shift shower, it was quite a hassle to set up. We had to heat up all the water in a kettle, which took quite some time. So instead, we would take the boat to a shallow sand bank and quickly dip into the freezing water, always keeping an eye out for crocodiles. One day, I had a delightful swim near a sand bank close to our island. But when I returned later that night and shone my flashlight, I was met with a pair of large reptilian eyes staring back at me. Needless to say, I decided to stick with the shower from then on.

I never managed to find those elusive lions. Every night, their mighty roars echoed through the air, teasing us with their presence. But with the vast amount of water surrounding us, it was nearly impossible to trace their whereabouts.

My encounters with elephants on this journey were far from pleasant. They seemed to go out of their way to give us a hard time, leaving me with the impression that they were aggressive and unpredictable creatures. However, one moment changed my perspective entirely. As I gazed out over the water, I spotted two fully grown elephants carefully supporting their baby as they crossed the lake, their trunks acting as lifelines. It was a touching sight that made me realize that elephants weren’t as fearsome as I had once thought.

Every day, we would go for walks, and with each passing day, I would grow braver and more at ease in my surroundings. However, I never let my guard down, always remaining alert and learning how to conquer my fears. On one occasion, we stumbled upon another group of elephants, along with a young calf. Luckily, we managed to slip away unnoticed before they spotted us. Later, in the distant trees, we caught a glimpse of a leopard darting by in a flash. Greg recounted a story to me about a guide named Ibi who had a run-in with a leopard. While Ibi was lounging on a stretcher bed, the leopard snuck up to him, stole his hat, and scurried up the closest tree. Ibi yelled at the leopard, causing it to drop the hat and flee into the forest.

During subsequent trips, while walking through tall grass one day, I noticed a blur of brown in the corner of my eye. It turned out to be a caracal that gracefully slid off a rock and vanished into the bushes. It dawned on me that it could have been walking right alongside me, and I wouldn’t have even known. Then, one night in the tent, I heard a series of splashes as something made its way across the river. I counted up to 23 elephants, rumbling into our campsite, embarking on a rampage of tree destruction. I happened to be sleeping next to the food tent, which contained a stash of oranges. Some of the elephants picked up the scent of the citrus and began nudging my tent with their trunks, causing the fabric to sway and bend. The roof of my tent was only covered by netting, providing little protection. Consequently, I found myself face-to-face with a large bull elephant, its ears flapping menacingly as it peered into my tent. For three agonizing hours, the bull remained fixated on me while his companions ransacked the area, searching for jackal berries. I curled up in a corner of the tent, contemplating the possible scenarios: either an elephant would step on me or a falling tree would crush me. Leaving the tent was not an option, for we would have been instantly detected by the elephants, not to mention the unknown dangers lurking beyond. Rule number one was clear: you never leave the tent at night! Finally, the elephants moved along, and I could hear them reentering the river and swimming away.

The Okavango is an extraordinary place that challenges me in ways I never imagined. It makes me question my abilities and confront my own fears and vulnerabilities. But it’s also a place of breathtaking beauty that captivates my soul. There’s a rawness and wildness to it that once you experience, you yearn for it for the rest of your days.

In the Okavango, nature reveals itself in remarkable ways. It’s the low rumble of a lion’s roar, the delicate feather of a Pel’s fishing owl, the piercing gaze of a leopard, and the deep grunt of a hippo. During one of our walks, we stumbled upon a flock of vividly colored Meyer’s parrots perched on a lifeless tree like enchanting Christmas ornaments. As we unintentionally disturbed them, they took off in an explosion of vibrant green and fluttering wings. Had we arrived just a moment later, we would have missed this exhilarating spectacle. The bush is unpredictable like that. Each day brings a different experience, and what is teeming with life one moment may be empty the next.

But if you look closer, you’ll find that even in apparent emptiness, the bush is teeming with activity. You may observe termites meticulously scavenging for food or witness the determined efforts of a dung beetle, tirelessly rolling a ball of excrement many times its own size. It’s in these simple acts of survival that you realize there is no true emptiness in the bush – there is always life persisting, facing the challenges of existence.

While gliding through the water, we were greeted by carpets of water lilies that transported us into the realm of Monet’s paintings. We waded through strokes of blue, purple, and green, surrounded by the delicate beauty of nature. Adorning the reeds were tiny painted reed frogs, no bigger than the tip of a man’s thumb. I marveled at the frogs’ ability to cling to the swaying reeds, sing their froggy songs, and gracefully evade the hefty presence of hippos. It made me ponder the incredible diversity and resilience of life.

Perhaps the best way to capture the essence of the Okavango is through Roger’s painting. It’s a breathtaking masterpiece, with imperfect brushstrokes that create a stunning whole. The colors and light draw your attention, but there’s a tiny smudge in the corner – the imprint of an elephant’s trunk – that makes the painting priceless.

I encourage you to explore the Okavango. Let it challenge you, inspire you, and ignite your sense of wonder. It’s a place where doubts are transformed into awe and fragility is replaced by resilience. Once you’ve experienced its magic, you’ll forever yearn for its untamed beauty.

If you’re planning a trip to the Okavango Delta in Botswana and need a place to stay, look no further than Getaway Accommodation!

When it comes to finding accommodation in the Okavango Delta, Botswana, Getaway Accommodation is the way to go.