Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

Winona Griggs

Exploring the Enchanting Drakensberg Mountains – A Guide for Adventurers

Have you ever caught yourself daydreaming about embarking on an extraordinary adventure, surrounded by breathtaking beauty and unrivaled serenity? If so, then the majestic Drakensberg Mountains might just be the place of your dreams.

I invite you to join me as we delve into the wonders of this remarkable natural wonder, where jagged peaks and lush valleys come together in perfect harmony to create a landscape that will leave you in awe.

Once you set foot in this awe-inspiring region, you’ll find yourself immersed in a world that seems straight out of a fairytale. The Drakensberg Mountains, also known as “Dragon Mountains,” are a true marvel of nature. With its spellbinding vistas, it’s no wonder that explorers and nature enthusiasts flock here, seeking solace and adventure.

As I ventured deeper into this ethereal landscape, I couldn’t help but marvel at the sheer magnitude of the mountains. Towering like ancient sentinels, they stand tall, commanding your attention and igniting a sense of wonder within you.

But the mountains are just the beginning of the wonders that await you. The Drakensberg is also home to an abundance of flora and fauna, each contributing to the rich tapestry of life that blankets this extraordinary place. As you traverse through the valleys and meadows, keep your eyes peeled for the vibrant wildflowers and the elusive wildlife that call this place home. It’s a natural sanctuary that never fails to captivate even the most seasoned adventurer.

If you’re someone who seeks more than just visual delights, then the Drakensberg mountains won’t disappoint. The region is a treasure trove of thrilling activities, sure to get your adrenaline pumping. From hiking along the awe-inspiring Amphitheatre to embarking on a heart-pounding zip-lining adventure, there’s never a dull moment in this mountain wonderland.

But as you embark on your exploration, don’t forget to immerse yourself in the tranquility and solitude that the Drakensberg offers. Take a moment to connect with nature, let the whispers of the wind and the soothing sounds of the flowing streams wash over you, and allow yourself to be enveloped in a sense of calmness that only this majestic landscape can provide.

So, my fellow adventurers, if you’re ready to leave the ordinary behind and step into a realm that will fill your senses and ignite your spirit, then join me on this journey through the enchanting Drakensberg Mountains. I assure you, the experiences and memories you’ll create here will be nothing short of magical.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

Here I am, nestled in the northern Drakensberg’s untamed and untethered Mnweni Pass. It’s not officially designated as a protected area, but that doesn’t diminish its wild and rugged allure.

Ah, the morning brings a commotion of sound and movement. Should I linger a bit longer in my cozy sleeping bag? I can hear the rustling and stirring of my fellow hikers. Or is it time to rouse my stiff muscles and venture forth? Well, the beauty of this place can be savored without even leaving my snug sleeping bag. I unzip the ultralight sky-blue tent, weighing a mere 2.59kg (every gram counts), and realize I’m not the sole witness to the breathtaking Mnweni Valley.

It’s day three of our Mnweni Circuit, a thrilling trek through the majestic northern Drakensberg. I’m accompanied by 12 other intrepid souls, and it seems that one among us has summoned the courage to abandon the warmth of their sleeping bag and embrace the ethereal hues of dawn from a higher vantage point at Ledges Cave.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

Take a closer look, and you’ll spot hikers making their way down Mnweni Pass. They resemble tiny stick figures, perched on the edge of a rock formation that juts out from the escarpment, resembling the bow of a colossal ship ready to navigate the rolling hills of the valley below. With sleep still in my eyes, I greeted the figure with a friendly wave, as if saying, “Hello, there!” Then, I went about my usual morning routine: getting out of my sleeping bag, rolling up my mattress, boiling water for a hearty bowl of oats and a second cup of coffee, getting dressed, and packing up my belongings. It was a flurry of activity, like a symphony of rustling, bustling, boiling, and bubbling.

The Maloti-Drakensberg Park is an incredible place. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a vast wilderness that stretches across different countries. This park is made up of 12 protected areas that are meant to keep the natural beauty of the region intact.

One unique area within the park is Mnweni. Even though it’s not officially recognized as part of the protected areas, it is still worth exploring. Mnweni is nestled between two more well-known parks, Royal Natal National Park and Cathedral Peak.

What makes Mnweni special is not just its beautiful landscapes, but also the people who call it home. The park is managed by the amaNgwane Tribal Authority, and it is situated on land that is occupied by traditional Zulu communities and small-scale farmers.

When you visit Mnweni, you not only get to experience the wonders of nature, but you also get a glimpse into the lives of the local people. It’s a unique opportunity to learn about their traditions and way of life.

So, if you’re looking for a hiking adventure that combines breathtaking scenery with cultural immersion, Mnweni is the place to go. It may not have the official recognition of other areas in the park, but it has its own charm and allure that shouldn’t be overlooked. Explore Mnweni and discover a world unlike any other.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

After I took off my shoes and made myself a cup of coffee, I was ready to embark on day two of the hike. Some of the more energetic hikers decided to explore around Ledges Cave while I settled in. It was going to be an exciting adventure for all of us!

Our hike was a three-night, 40km trek that started at the Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre. When we arrived, we were greeted by our lively mountain guide, Michaela Geytenbeek, and the centre manager, Leonard Hlatshwayo. Leonard has been working at the non-profit organization since 2005 and is one of seven staff members from the Mnweni community.

“The funds we receive from hiking permits also go towards supporting the creche and school next door,” Leonard shared with me. “We have 460 children attending school here.”

With a mischievous grin, Leonard brought out a luggage scale to weigh our backpacks. Many of us had to reconsider what we had packed before getting on the Kombi to be transported to the start of the trail.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

As the trail wound through the breathtaking Mnweni Circuit, my fellow adventurers and I reached our final destination. After a long day of hiking, we found ourselves hitching a ride back to the Cultural and Hiking Centre, where our journey began.

Along the way, we encountered an array of sights and sounds. Thatched huts dotted the landscape, surrounded by lively streams and grazing goats. Women gracefully balanced buckets on their heads, while donkeys, dogs, and children played joyfully nearby.

Our driver, Leonard, pulled over near a bridge. We hopped out of the vehicle and eagerly strapped on our backpacks. The air was crisp and the Mnweni River flowed beside us, adding to the anticipation of what lay ahead.

As we prepared to conquer the peaks that loomed above us, I couldn’t help but feel a mix of excitement and uncertainty. Clouds hung low in the sky, obscuring the view of our future conquests. Perhaps it was better that way, allowing us to focus on the task at hand.

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Prior to embarking on this adventure, I had come across a warning: “Don’t underestimate this hike. It demands a high level of fitness and hiking expertise.” Well, that certainly got my attention.

With that seed of doubt planted in my mind, I couldn’t help but wonder if I was up to the challenge. The hike ahead would test my physical and mental endurance, pushing me to my limits. But that’s exactly what I signed up for, isn’t it? The thrill of the unknown, the satisfaction of pushing past my boundaries.

So, with a mix of anticipation and trepidation, we set off on our journey. The mountains beckoned, their mysteries waiting to be unraveled by those brave enough to face them. And I was ready to take on the challenge, step by step, one summit at a time.

If you want to explore the majestic mountains of the Mnweni region in South Africa, you have the option to hire local guides and porters from the Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre. These individuals possess a wealth of knowledge about traditional plants and folklore, making them valuable companions on your journey. However, if you’re looking for a bold and adventurous female guide to lead your group, you might be out of luck. When I asked about the availability of female guides, Leonard, a member of the community, dismissed the idea, claiming that women weren’t strong enough for the task. Little did Leonard know about the prowess of Michaela and her crew as they fearlessly navigate the challenging terrain of ridges and ravines.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

Look at Mnweni village, visible from the Cultural and Hiking Centre. It’s a beautiful view.

On weekdays, I am a Masters student studying sustainable development. My focus is on integrating nature into the education curriculum. But on Saturdays, you’ll find me in the mountains. In 2017, I started PathFinders SA. Last year, in 2020, I became a certified mountain guide, specializing in mountain walking. To earn my certification, I had to lead groups for at least 40 days at altitudes around 3,000 meters. I even ran this route as a marathon, not once but twice.

As soon as I started our hike through the beautiful green hills of Mnweni, I realized how lucky I was to have someone leading the way. We hadn’t even walked 3km yet, and I was already thankful for our captain. At one point, one of the people in our group choked on water from their bladder, but thankfully Mix, who is trained in Level 3 First Aid, was there to help. And that’s not all – the paths in Mnweni are like a maze, with cattle tracks and winding trails going in every direction. There are no marked paths here, so having a knowledgeable guide is crucial.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

As I traverse the Drakensberg escarpment, I come across numerous streams, each presenting its own challenges and beauty. The start of my hike brings forth a storm, and although our planned resting place, Chichi Bushcamp, is still a good distance away, we continue on. Our guide, Mix, leads us to a picturesque campsite nestled between the Rwanqua and Mnweni streams. With haste, we set up our tents, barely finishing before a sudden hailstorm engulfs us. These are the unexpected delights one encounters while trekking the Berg during the summer.

When I visited Mnweni, the name meaning ‘the place of fingers’ in isiZulu, I was awestruck by the majestic rock spires that reached towards the sky. The next day, the weather cleared up, and I got a better view of these magnificent formations. Our goal for day two was to cover about 8 kilometers, but the challenge was the daunting ascent of 1,095 meters. I gritted my teeth and focused on pushing my legs up the Mnweni Pass, even when it seemed impossible.

The trail was treacherous, with loose rocks and steep inclines that had us crawling on all fours at times. Thankfully, I had my trusty hiking poles to provide stability and support. Every now and then, I would pause to catch my breath and marvel at the tiny figures of other hikers below, toiling along the trail like ants. It was difficult to comprehend the magnitude of a 1-kilometer climb, but my iPhone’s health app later broke it down for me – an exhausting climb equivalent to 141 floors.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

On the first day of our trek, we followed the Mnweni River for most of the route. It was a beautiful sight to behold. The wind gently swayed the wildflowers, creating a mesmerizing dance all around us. As we reached the top of Mnweni Pass, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of pride and accomplishment. Looking down, I admired the towering mountain we had just conquered, feeling a burst of joy with each bite of lunch.

After our satisfying meal, we made our way to one of the sources of the Orange River on the plateau. The crystal-clear water beckoned us to replenish our water bottles. Sipping on the refreshing liquid, we continued our journey to Ledges Cave. This hidden gem was nestled right on the border of Lesotho and South Africa.

Getting to the cave was no easy feat. The descent was treacherous, making our hearts race with adrenaline. But once we safely arrived, the sight was well worth it. The cave provided a breathtaking view of the surrounding landscape, and we couldn’t help but revel in its beauty.

One afternoon, I had the pleasure of spending time with Carmen and Lauren. We had the chance to really connect and get to know each other. It all began in 2018 when I won a competition to work remotely from Sicily with a digital nomad company called Find Your Pack. During my time in Palermo, I crossed paths with these two incredible women.

Carmen van der Westhuizen is not only my dear friend but also the co-founder of our exciting new project, Womxn for Wild. Together, we’re embarking on a unique adventure to empower women and protect our beautiful planet. Lauren Melnick is another amazing individual I met during my travels. She’s an avid explorer, just like me, and shares her experiences through her travel blog, Wanderlust Movement.

It’s incredible how life brings people together in unexpected ways. Our paths crossed in Sicily, and now we’re collaborating on this exciting journey. Carmen and Lauren’s passion for travel and making a positive impact on the world is truly inspiring. I feel incredibly lucky to have met them and to be working side by side with them in this incredible endeavor.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

When I first arrived at Ledges Cave, I was pleasantly surprised by its size. It offered just enough room to pitch my tent and move around comfortably. That being said, most of my companions opted to sleep outside on their hiking pads.

Before reaching Ledges Cave, we had already embarked on an adventure together. We explored Cape Town in Italy and even drove to a music festival in the Okavango Delta. Choosing which hiking route to take wasn’t an easy decision. We turned to Instagram for some inspiration. As we scrolled through the breathtaking pictures of Mnweni, taken by Mix’s friend and our newfound trail buddy, Graeme Holliday, any concerns I had about the trail’s difficulty were quickly vetoed by my friends, Lauren and Carmen.

We all showed up for this adventure, brought together by the powerful force of social media. It’s incredible how platforms like Instagram can connect people from different places and backgrounds. Our group consisted mostly of millennials, each with our own unique story.

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Dineo Zonke Maduna made the journey all the way from Nelspruit, Jina Min traveled from Joburg, and Lauren Holland drove up from Howick. It’s amazing how far people will go in search of new experiences and connections.

But let’s be honest, social media can be a tricky place. It’s easy to get caught up in the pressure to constantly share the most enviable moments of our lives. We’re constantly bombarded with images of picture-perfect vacations and hashtag-worthy adventures.

In reality, those picture-perfect images only tell a small part of the story. Behind the scenes, there are countless moments that go unshared – the tired legs, the sweaty brows, the unexpected challenges. It’s easy to forget that real life is messy and imperfect.

But amongst all the noise and competition, there are rare moments when digital networking turns into something truly special. It’s these moments that make all the scrolling and filtering worth it. And I consider myself lucky to have found that in this group of fellow adventurers.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

Taking a much-needed break to celebrate our accomplishment at the top of Mnweni Pass is a real treat.

The Mnweni Circuit is no walk in the park. It’s tough. We shed tears and endured painful welts. We suffered from sunburn and burst water bladders. But luckily, I had the best group of people with me – they captured the most important moments. Dineo even managed to film herself crying while walking down Rockeries Pass on the third day. Carmen shared pictures of her blisters being comforted by ice-cold beers. And as for me, I tried to share the experience of facing a hail storm while squashed into our tiny sky-blue tent with all our gear.

Just three years ago, I didn’t know any of these people, and I never even thought about going on this hike. It was like a world that didn’t exist. But now, I have 11 new and incredibly brave friends. It’s funny how an online platform brought us together and led us into the wilderness, far away from any Wi-Fi signal. I guess it’s all about finding the right balance between screen time and enjoying the beauty of nature.

Meet the Adventurers

My name is Dineo Zonke Maduna, and I want to talk to you about the internet. It’s amazing how something so intangible can have such a huge impact on our lives. I’ve always been fascinated by the way it connects us to the world and opens up endless possibilities. But with all the benefits come risks and challenges. It’s like a double-edged sword, you know?

When I think about the internet, I see a vast ocean teeming with information, just waiting to be explored. From educational resources to social media platforms, it’s a treasure trove of knowledge and connection. But it’s important to remember that not everything you see online is true or reliable. It’s like navigating through a maze, trying to find the facts amidst all the noise.

One of the key things to understand about the internet is the power it holds. It can bring people together, spark conversations, and mobilize communities for positive change. But it can also be a breeding ground for hate speech, misinformation, and online harassment. We have to be mindful of the impact our words and actions can have on others, even in the virtual world.

So, how can we make the most of this incredible tool while staying safe and responsible? Well, first and foremost, it’s essential to think critically and question the information we come across. Just because something is on the internet doesn’t make it true. By fact-checking and using reliable sources, we can separate fact from fiction.

Another crucial aspect to consider is our digital footprint. Everything we do online leaves a trace, and it’s important to be mindful of the kind of impression we’re making. Whether it’s the pictures we post or the comments we leave, they all contribute to our online persona. By being respectful and considerate, we can create a positive digital presence.

Lastly, let’s not forget the importance of online safety. It’s crucial to protect ourselves from cyber threats and safeguard our personal information. Simple steps like using strong passwords, being cautious about sharing personal details, and keeping our devices updated can go a long way in ensuring our online security.

So, the internet is an incredible tool that has the power to connect us, educate us, and entertain us. But it’s up to us to navigate it responsibly. We have the opportunity to shape the digital world into a safe and empowering place for everyone. It’s a responsibility we all share, and by being informed and thoughtful internet users, we can make a positive impact.

Remember, the internet is a vast ocean, and it’s up to us to sail through it with wisdom and kindness.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

<p>I’m Dineo Zonke Maduna, and I absolutely love being in nature. It brings me so much joy and makes me feel truly alive. Recently, I had the opportunity to go camping at Ledges Cave, and let me tell you, it was an experience like no other. It’s something that will stay with me forever.</p>

<p>I decided to take on this trail because I wanted a challenge. I wanted to push myself and see what I was capable of. Plus, I was excited to meet new people and witness the stunning views of the Drakensberg. But let me tell you, I underestimated just how tough it would be. It reminded me a lot of life – we all go through it in our own way and face our own challenges. But no matter what, you have to keep going. You have to appreciate the beauty around you and make the most of the experience.</p>

<p>There were times when I felt like giving up. I mean, who would blame me? It was tough. But I soon realized that no one was going to come and save me. I had to trust myself and keep pushing forward, no matter how hard it got.</p>

I’ve got a great trail tip for you: don’t overthink it. Believe in yourself and what your body is capable of. And make sure you have plenty of food and snacks that you actually enjoy, because you’re going to need all the energy you can get. When it comes to coffee, I’m a Ricoffy person all the way. And if I had to choose one treat that I really needed, it would definitely be chocolate.

Hi, I’m Michaela Geytenbeek, and you can find me on Instagram at @mountainmix and @pathfindersa.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

‘When I step outside, I’m reminded of our connection to nature. It’s like a gentle reminder that she’s always there, watching over us and teaching us valuable lessons. That’s why I love going on rustic adventures. It’s not just about the thrill of the unknown; it’s about experiencing the quiet and taking in the world around me. It’s about appreciating the beauty of nature – the sounds, the smells – and realizing how small and yet powerful we are in the grand scheme of things.

Out of all the breathtaking places I’ve been, the Mnweni area holds a special place in my heart. It’s untamed and wild, with towering rock spires that give it a unique character. The journey to the mountains is not an easy one; it takes time and effort. But that’s what makes it so rewarding. As you walk through the rolling hills and pass by magnificent rock towers, you become completely immersed in the beauty of the surroundings.

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The first time I laid eyes on Mnweni, I was overwhelmed by its vastness. It was like trying to comprehend the incomprehensible. And as I gazed at the intricate and ever-changing faces of the mountains, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe. Even now, after visiting multiple times, I still discover something new each time. There’s always another hidden corner or a secret trail waiting to be explored.

Trail tip

If you’re up for an adventure, Mnweni is the place for you. Just make sure to get a guide to help you navigate the winding paths and prevent getting lost. Also, don’t forget to arrange a lift from the Mnweni Cultural Centre to the starting point of your hike. It’ll save you a lot of time and energy!
Ricoffy or filter coffee?

Definitely filter coffee all the way! There’s nothing like a freshly brewed cup of coffee to kickstart your day on the trail.
One treat you really need on the trail?

For me, a rusk is an absolute must-have. It’s the perfect crunchy snack to fuel your adventure, along with a good book to unwind in the evenings.

Did you know?

It’s amazing to think that mountains are not just towering landmarks, but they’re also home to a significant percentage of the world’s population. They serve as important hubs for biodiversity and play a vital role in providing us with fresh water. The Drakensberg Mountains, like many others, contribute to these essential functions. So, when you explore the Drakensberg, you’re not only enjoying its beauty but also experiencing a part of our planet’s life-support system.

Trip Planner

Getting There

If you want to go on a hike, the Mnweni Cultural Centre is the place to start. It’s 35km from Bergville, but don’t worry, the road is a bit bumpy so just drive slowly and you’ll be fine, even if you have a regular car. To get there from Joburg, it’s about 400km, and if you’re coming from Durban, it’s around 270km.

The Exciting Mnweni Circuit

If you want to go on a hiking trip in Mweni, I’ve got the perfect guide for you. Her name is Michaela, and she organizes expeditions through PathFinders SA. All the upcoming hikes are listed on their website, pathfinderssa.com. But here’s the best part: if you can’t find a date that works for you, you can plan a personalized trip with your friends for just R500 per person.

When it comes to guides, you can trust the local experts at the Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre. They are trained and certified in first aid, so you know you’ll be in safe hands. The cost for a day trip with these guides is R1,000 per group, and if you want to stay overnight, you’ll need to get a permit for R60 per person.

If you’re not up for a long hike, don’t worry – there are shorter options too. One popular trail is the Mnweni Pools trail, which is only 6 kilometers long. It’s a great choice if you’re looking for a day hike. And if you’re looking to join other adventurous people, you should follow @womxnforwild on Instagram. They organize group trips, and their next one is a four-day trek to Monkl’s Cowl at the end of April.

Navigating Neverland in the Drakensberg

Stay Right Here

Hey there! If you’re planning a trip to the amazing Mnweni Cultural and Hiking Centre, you’re in luck. They’ve got everything you need to make your stay comfortable and enjoyable. Whether you prefer camping or cozy rondavels, they’ve got you covered.

Looking to go camping? Mnweni has a simple lawn available for camping, and it only costs R90 per person. How cool is that? Just imagine sleeping under the stars and waking up to the stunning views of nature all around you.

If camping isn’t your thing, no worries! Mnweni also offers these cute little rondavels that can sleep four people. They are simple but lovingly-tended, and you’ll definitely feel at home in them. Plus, they are only R330 per person.

Ready to book your stay? Just give Leonard a call at 079 615 5941, and he’ll help you out. Easy peasy!

Things to Do

When you’re in the area, make sure to check out the beautiful Little Switzerland. It’s a fantastic stopover option if you’re traveling between Johannesburg and Mnweni.

Located on the picturesque Oliviershoek Pass, Little Switzerland is like a little piece of paradise. It’s situated halfway between Harrismith and Bergville on the recently resurfaced R74 road. So, you can expect some breathtaking views during your drive.

At Little Switzerland, they have self-catering units available starting from R720 per person. It’s the perfect option if you prefer having your own space and cooking your own meals. Plus, they have all the amenities you need for a comfortable stay.

Ready to experience the beauty of Little Switzerland? Just head over to lsh.co.za to book your self-catering unit.

Experience the Thrill of the Mnweni Marathon
Ready to embark on a thrilling adventure? Look no further than the Mnweni Marathon, organized by KZN Trail Running. This incredible event offers two exciting races – one on May 1, 2021, and another on September 4, 2021, known as the Spring Mnweni. The Spring Mnweni race takes you through a raw and unmarked course, ensuring a truly authentic experience. With multiple categories to choose from, including the 40km Mountain Marathon, 20km Mountain Challenge, 10km, and 5km, there’s something for everyone. Be sure to mark your calendar and join us for an unforgettable experience. Please note that online entries have closed as of April 23. Visit kzntrailrunning.co.za for more information.

Day One – A Memorable Start

Ready to kick off your Mnweni Marathon adventure? Strap on your shoes and get ready to conquer the trail! Day One takes you from the Mnweni Centre to the Chichi Bushcamp, covering a distance of 18km. As you ascend, you’ll experience an altitude gain of 625m, challenging your stamina and determination. Our team completed this leg of the race in 6 hours and 12 minutes, filled with excitement and a sense of accomplishment.

Day Two – Rising to New Heights

On Day Two, the adventure continues as we make our way from the Chichi Bushcamp, up the Mnweni Pass, and towards Ledges Cave. This challenging leg covers a distance of 6km and requires an altitude gain of 1,095m. It’s a true test of endurance and mental strength. Our team persevered for 7 hours and 22 minutes, pushing through the difficult terrain to reach their goals.

Day Three – Conquer the Finish Line

If you’re up for an adventure, I’ve got a great hike in mind for you. It’s called Ledges Cave, and boy, is it a thrilling one! The trail will take you from the majestic Down Rockeries Pass all the way back to the charming Mnweni Culture Centre. Trust me, the scenery is out of this world!

Now, let’s talk logistics. The distance of the hike is around 15-20km. But here’s a little tip: if you manage to catch a lift for the last 5km of flat gravel road, you can shorten your journey. Oh, and don’t forget about the altitude! You’ll be starting at a height of 1,200m. Ready to conquer the heights?

I went on this hike recently, and it took me about 7 hours and 50 minutes to complete. Of course, everyone’s pace is different, so give yourself plenty of time to enjoy the experience. Take breaks, soak in the views, and make memories that will last a lifetime.

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