May the horse be with you

Just imagine a world where a magical creature transports you to far-off lands, where you can embark on thrilling adventures and make lifelong memories. It sounds like something out of a fantasy novel, but in reality, horses can bring this magical world to life.

When I first mounted a horse, I couldn’t contain my excitement. The rhythmic sounds of hooves hitting the ground and the gentle sway of the horse beneath me created a sense of wonder and awe. It was as if I was transported to a different time and place, and I couldn’t help but smile from ear to ear.

But the beauty of horses extends far beyond their ability to transport us to other worlds. They possess an innate wisdom and grace that is truly awe-inspiring. From their mesmerizing gallop to their gentle nuzzle, horses have an indescribable ability to touch our souls and bring us a sense of peace and tranquility.

It’s no wonder that horses have been revered throughout history. They have played a crucial role in human civilization, aiding us in transport, agriculture, and even war. Their strength and loyalty have earned them a place in our hearts, and their beauty has inspired artists and poets for centuries.

And if you’ve ever had the pleasure of interacting with a horse, then you know just how powerful that bond can be. The connection that forms between a horse and its rider is unlike anything else. It’s a partnership built on trust and mutual respect, and it’s a bond that can last a lifetime.

But horses aren’t just majestic creatures; they can also teach us important life lessons. They teach us patience as we learn to communicate with them effectively. They teach us responsibility as we care for and provide for their needs. And perhaps most importantly, they teach us empathy as we learn to understand and connect with another living being.

So whether you dream of galloping through open fields or simply want to connect with a gentle and noble creature, horses have something to offer everyone. They have the power to change lives, to heal hearts, and to bring joy and happiness to all who encounter them. They truly are magical creatures, and I am forever grateful for the gift they have given me.

Hey there! Guess what? There’s this awesome new hike in the Baviaanskloof that lets people who aren’t in the best shape ride alongside those who prefer walking. How cool is that? I was lucky enough to be one of the first to try it out, and let me tell you, it’s a whole different kind of adventure when you explore this amazing wilderness on horseback. Trust me, you’ve got to see it to believe it! And lucky for you, I’ve got some incredible photos to give you a sneak peek. Check them out!

If you want to see even more behind-the-scenes action: Scenes from the Baviaans Camino

LEFT: Sometimes, you can’t control the outcome no matter how hard you try. RIGHT: Early mornings have a way of revealing the truth.

It’s quite a shock to realize, as I embark on the Baviaans Camino, that I’ve been mistaken for a long time.

A gentle breeze whispers through the fynbos as I rummage in my saddlebag, searching for a juicy citrus fruit. The naartjie I find is still refreshingly cool from the morning chill. Wieda, the magnificent strawberry roan mare I was introduced to a few hours ago, effortlessly conquers the steep incline before us. We’ve already ascended over a thousand meters this morning, with several kilometers of mountain pass to go, yet Wieda shows no signs of worry. And so, I follow her lead without a second thought, peeling my naartjie.

When I hike, I experience the thrill of overcoming challenges. It can be tough at times, with my knees shaking and my lungs gasping for air. I’m so focused on moving forward that I don’t even notice the metallic taste in my mouth. Yet, I somehow find the strength to keep going. And then, finally, I reach my destination – whether it’s a ridge, a peak, or a waterfall – and in that moment, a sense of bliss washes over me. It’s a reminder that my struggle was worth it, that my pain brought me to this beautiful place. One of the reasons why I love hiking, even though I’m not the fittest person, is because it allows me to conquer my own body. It’s an addictive feeling, and it makes that post-hike beer taste even sweeter.

However, as I sit on my horse, nibbling on a juicy orange, I have to consider that there may be other ways to experience such joy.

As I venture into the Baviaanskloof Mountains, I can’t help but notice the scarcity of other creatures. Every now and then, a glimpse of sheep grazing on the rugged landscape is a welcome sight. But today, I had the pleasure of encountering a different animal altogether. I met a stunning horse named Noodle.

The Baviaans Camino is an exciting new trail that spans five days, testing both horse riders and hikers against the most challenging terrain South Africa has to offer. This is the inaugural journey, and I am one of twelve adventurers embarking on this unforgettable expedition. Five of us are mounted on horses, while the rest of us will rely on our own two feet.

The mention of the Baviaanskloof often leaves people speechless. It holds a mystical aura, much like the vast open spaces of Namibia. When asked to describe it, most people resort to a simple phrase: “It’s very… big.” This vague yet poignant description usually revolves around the R332, a twisting dirt road connecting Willowmore to Patensie. However, those of us not bound by four wheels have the joy of taking an alternative route that cuts across the heart of the Baviaanskloof, delving into a realm of untouched wilderness.

“Wilted” is probably the nicest word to describe how I’m feeling right now. I’ve already climbed a mountain and there’s still another 11 kilometers to go. This is the steepest climb I’ve ever done, and boy, I’m really pushing my limits.

Finally, I reach the top of Baviaanskloof and look down at what lies ahead: a steep and treacherous descent. It’s like a never-ending avalanche, with rocks and scree tumbling down. But the horses, they’re like superheroes. They navigate the path with ease and confidence, as if they were walking on air. It seems impossible, but they make it look effortless.

Whew! Boy, oh boy, were we tired! And I mean both the horse riders and the horses themselves. The hikers? Well, they showed us what they were made of by zooming right past us during our pitstop.

Now, hold on a sec, it’s not me saying this. I’m just relaying what Lynda said. You see, Lynda is a real horse enthusiast. She decided to take on the challenge of riding a whopping thousand kilometers across the beautiful country of Namibia. She even brought her own saddle along for the ride! That’s commitment right there.

Let me tell you a little something about this type of terrain, especially when you’re dealing with folks who are new to horse riding. It’s essential to have trusty steeds who know exactly what they’re doing. In our case, we have Wieda, a Boerperd with the face of an angel and the heart of a saint. At this point, I have surrendered the reins and chosen to trust her judgement completely. She’s taken my lack of riding as an invitation to snack along the way, so I reckon we’re two peas in a pod already.

As I ride through the Doringkloof valley, the thorn trees provide shade overhead. The atmosphere is still, and all I can hear is the rhythmic sound of the horses’ hooves on the pebble-filled riverbed. It’s been a long journey of seven hours, and although my body is tired, we don’t dwell on the discomfort. Instead, we are captivated by the sight of dust suspended in the air, shining like a radiant sunbeam.

As the afternoon sun casts a golden glow on the dusty trail ahead, I find myself walking alongside Hercules and Diamant, our loyal companions on this journey. The simplicity of this experience is both its charm and its challenge. I’m the one responsible for taking care of my horse – untacking, watering, washing, and feeding – even before I take off my shoes. If you’re not familiar with horseback riding, you’ll have to learn quickly. It’s a skill that combines the intricacies of sailing, with its fiddly knots, and the mechanics of motorbikes, except the gears and levers are replaced by countless straps and buckles.

Let’s talk about horses. They’re these amazing animals that can truly captivate you. Sure, they have some strange words associated with them like snaffle, pommel, and numnah. It’s like a secret language that’s been passed down through the ages. But the most important part of being around horses is getting to know them. It’s about forming a real friendship with these magnificent creatures.

When you interact with horses, you quickly realize that they’re nothing like those robotic, lifeless toys you see at the beach or at parties. Horses have their own unique personalities and quirks. They can be silly, wise, and absolutely breathtaking to watch. Just imagining them frolicking in the grass, as if it’s a never-ending sushi feast, is enough to bring a smile to anyone’s face.

When I wake up the next day, I’m greeted with a hearty farm breakfast. There’s mieliepap and oats, bacon and eggs, roosterkoek, mushrooms, and baked beans. The portions are so massive that you could drown a donkey in the vats they bring out. Once we finish eating, we focus on brushing the horses until they shine. Then it’s time to saddle up and hit the road again.

As we make our way forward, I can’t help but notice the mountains in the distance. They’ve been recently scorched by a fire, giving them a hard and blackened appearance. It’s as if the landscape has been transformed into a burnt crème brûlée.

Lynda strikes a fierce pose against the burned mountains.

The second day is a challenging one. Hercules, our leader, tells us that it involves three hills – and we can only see the first one at this moment. We are entering the Kouga mountains. We are all tired and our conversation is limited as we slowly climb up the first hill. Org, one of the hikers, remarks: ‘By the time we reach the top, we’ll know every rock by its name.’ Even though there’s nothing in its way, a chilling wind whistles up the slope.

I stop for lunch when the sun is burning right above me, and I easily remove the bridles and saddles from the horses. I let them rest under a tree while I take a break. In my saddlebag, I have some roosterkoek that was baked twice in the morning. As I break it apart with my dirty, horse-smelling fingers, it’s so tough. Sometimes, I can’t help but feel like a bandit, wandering through the darkened fynbos with my face covered by a buff, trying to avoid people and the law.

When I take a break for lunch, it’s not just about finding some shade, grabbing a bite to eat, and resting for a bit. For me, it’s an opportunity to pause and jot down some notes.

As I sit here, doing my best to avoid the unpleasant smell of a dead sheep nearby, something magical happens. Wieda, my horse, rubs her head against me and in that moment, I understand the enchantment of horses. They are like cars with a soul or motorcycles with a personality. There’s something bewitching about their soft noses, warm skin, the scent of old leather, and the sound of clinking metal. I can’t help but be captivated by it all.

When it’s time for lunch, both horses and humans get a break.

We get ready and continue our journey, making our way through the mountain until we come to a steep edge where we can see the beautiful Tsitsikamma stretching out before us. It’s like being on top of the world, surrounded by mountains that curve like waves as far as the eye can see. After going up a few more hills, we veer off the path and go between the mountain’s peaks, where a lush green valley runs along the bottom. We set up our tents in paradise valley, feeling satisfied and content.

When I wake up the next day, it feels like I’m rising with the birds. There’s a thick mist enveloping everything, creating an otherworldly atmosphere. As we make our way into the next valley, it’s like entering a bowl of milk. The soft white haze embraces us, while vibrant pelargoniums break through, their petals sparkling with dew. Unfortunately, Wieda’s front leg is bothering her today, so I decide to dismount and walk alongside her.

Walking feels different, but in a good way. It’s a refreshing change from riding, and I find comfort in the rhythm of my feet crunching on the trail. As we join the group of hikers, there’s no sense of superiority or gloating. They welcome us with open arms, treating us as equals. It’s a humbling experience that reminds me of the beauty of simplicity.

Even though I’m no longer on horseback, I still have the advantage of a different perspective. Wieda notices things that I wouldn’t have paid attention to. She points out the sweet, intoxicating scent of leucospermum flowers, their vibrant colors beckoning us closer. She draws my attention to a gnarled tree trunk, weathered by time and standing as a testament to resilience. And she reminds me to appreciate the wind as it dances through the fynbos, whispering secrets only the wilderness can hear.

As I gazed at the sky on day three, I couldn’t help but notice the ominous clouds and patches of mist. They created a stunning backdrop for silhouette shots, adding an air of mystery and awe.

Descending into a valley filled with majestic yellowwood trees, we took a break and enjoyed some cold boerie rolls. The horses were misted with a light rain, and a sense of tranquility washed over us. The world seemed hazy, almost dreamlike.

After a long day of riding, we reached a sparkling stream. Crossing it, we caught sight of the farmhouse nestled in the embrace of the surrounding mountains. It was a sight that felt both comforting and magical, as if we had stumbled upon a hidden oasis.

As we continued our journey, we rode past a herd of cows. They were unlike any I had seen before, with their vibrant copper coats gleaming in the sunlight. They watched us with curiosity and seemed to bring a touch of warmth to the cool, misty landscape.

In that moment, I couldn’t help but muse about a different reality. A world where these breathtaking scenes were an everyday occurrence. It was a tempting thought, a glimpse into a life filled with natural beauty and serenity.

As I gather with everyone around the campfire that night, something becomes apparent – we’re all feeling a bit sore. Our feet, our backs, our bums – it’s as if the pain is splitting us open, revealing a vulnerability we rarely show. And as we share our stories, they carry a certain tenderness, a closeness that only this moment can bring.

Elmien, a teacher from a school nearby, takes charge of dinner. As she cooks, she opens up about her experiences in the classroom. She tells us what it’s like to explain the concept of hot air balloons to children who have never even known the luxury of electricity.

Today is the final day, and I’m ready to take on the Moordenaarskloof – known as murderer’s valley. This place has a name that definitely grabs your attention, and there are many theories about how it got that name. Some of them are pretty far-fetched! The path ahead is uphill, but it’s a smooth and steady climb. I’m riding a pony called Custard, a Scottish Highlander, and she has the most adorable face. My friend Wieda is with me, waiting patiently. Little does she know, she’ll be getting a ride in a horse trailer to our next destination. Right now, though, she’s whickering nervously, missing her equine companions.

One thing I’ve learned from my previous experiences is that there comes a point when the actual riders leave us amateurs behind and race ahead. In the past, I’ve always stayed behind, but today, after being in the saddle for four days, there’s no way I’m letting that happen. We charge up the hill like renegades, and I catch a glimpse of Teagan, our photographer: holding the reins with one hand, miraculously cradling a camera in the other, her eyes shining with excitement.

And just like that, as if we’ve reached our daily limit of lawlessness and are about to blow our cover, we crest the hill and enter the vast farmlands. We don’t have much farther to go.

When I see the Kouga River winding through the mountains, it’s truly a breathtaking sight. Tonight, I’ll be lucky enough to sleep right by its side. After we untack and release the horses, we bring them to the water. Some need a little convincing, but eventually, they take a dip. Afterwards, they happily roll around in the sand, feeling the joy of liberation from the hard work and perspiration of the past few days. Now, we have a couple of hours to spare before the hikers arrive. Teagan and I find a cozy spot hidden among the rushes, where we can rest our weary bodies on the warm sand while listening to the delightful melodies of the birds above.

LEFT: I can show a horse where the water is. If you’re Teagan, you might even convince it to start swimming. RIGHT: A cup of sunrise coffee is a must-have on the trail.

When someone suggests another horseback ride, our excitement peaks. We have already reached our campsite, so there doesn’t seem to be any other place to go. However, we decide to saddle up anyway. As the horses start to pick up speed and we sink deeper into our saddles, all we can think about is the sunset painting vibrant colors across the vast plateau and the exhilarating wind hitting our faces.

I just had the most exhilarating ride on the trail. Normally, we ride at a leisurely pace, but this time, we couldn’t resist the urge for a final burst of speed.

Get ready for your adventure

When you click on the image, you’ll be able to see the map in a larger size.

How to Get There

If you’re a hiker or rider, we all gather in Steytlerville the night before. The closest airport is in Port Elizabeth, only a 90-minute drive away. Flights start at just R1,520.

Important Information

If you’re an experienced hiker, I highly recommend doing this camino on foot. However, if you’re a beginner, you can still enjoy this wilderness by horseback. It’s a great opportunity for families and groups with varying fitness levels to experience it together. No need to worry about special gear; thick jeans and comfortable shoes are all you need. Instead of a sunhat, don’t forget your helmet and plenty of sunblock. Keep in mind that there’s not much signal along the way, but there is a satellite phone available for emergencies.

Best Time to Go

The Baviaans Camino takes place during the cooler months, from March to September. The next one is scheduled for March 3rd.

What You Need to Bring

Hey there! So you’re thinking about going camping for a few nights? Awesome! Let me help you get prepared. Here’s a list of things you should bring with you:

• Hiking gear: Make sure you have all the essentials like sturdy shoes, a backpack, and comfortable clothes. Don’t forget a hat and sunglasses to protect yourself from the sun!
• Sleeping bag and pillow: Since you’ll be camping out for at least two nights, bring a cozy sleeping bag and a pillow to make sure you get a good night’s sleep.
• Alcohol (optional): If you enjoy a drink or two, feel free to bring along your favorite beverages. Just remember to drink responsibly!

Now, here’s the best part: most of the stuff you need will be provided for you! That’s right, the camping site will supply tents, mattresses, and everything else you might need. You’ll also have access to drinking water and all your meals will be fully catered for. How convenient is that?

Keep in mind that there is a cost involved. For hikers, it’s R7200 per person for four nights and five days. If you’re planning to bring your bike along, there’s an additional cost of R1500 per person.

Ready to embark on this amazing adventure? Visit baviaanscamino.com for more information and to book your spot. Have a fantastic time!

When I woke up early that morning, a sense of tranquility filled the air. It was the last day of our journey on the trail, and we knew it was time to part ways and go our separate paths – at least until we meet again.

This amazing tale was shared with the world in the pages of the February 2017 edition of Getaway magazine.

In our captivating February issue, we unveil an exciting and unconventional method of exploring the breathtaking Baviaanskloof. We also take you on an unforgettable safari adventure in the Okavango Delta, where you can experience the wonders of wildlife without breaking the bank. Additionally, we reveal six stunning local beaches that are begging to be explored and showcase Italy’s eight most picturesque swimming spots.