Madikwe Time Tripping

Have you ever wondered what it would be like to travel back in time? To experience a world completely different from our own? That’s the magic of Madikwe Game Reserve, a place where the past comes alive and you can get a glimpse into a world long gone.

Madikwe Game Reserve is a hidden gem tucked away in South Africa. It is a place of unparalleled beauty and wonder, where nature reigns supreme. This reserve is home to a diverse range of wildlife, including the majestic Big Five – lions, elephants, buffalos, leopards, and rhinos.

When you visit Madikwe, you are transported to a different time. You become a witness to the ways of the animal kingdom, observing their daily rituals and interactions. You might see a pride of lions on the hunt, or a herd of elephants bathing in the cool waters of a watering hole. Each day brings a new adventure, a new opportunity to marvel at the wonders of nature.

Madikwe offers a variety of activities to suit all interests. From game drives to bush walks, there is something for everyone. You can embark on a thrilling safari, where you will be guided by experienced rangers who have an intimate knowledge of the reserve. They will take you on a journey through the wilderness, sharing their insights and stories along the way.

If you’re a bird lover, Madikwe is a paradise. The reserve is home to over 340 bird species, making it a haven for birdwatchers. From the majestic African fish eagle to the colorful Lilac-breasted roller, you will be mesmerized by the beauty and diversity of the avian world.

When it comes to accommodation, Madikwe offers luxury lodges that blend seamlessly with the natural environment. Each lodge provides a unique and unforgettable experience, with breathtaking views and world-class amenities. You can unwind in the comfort of your own private suite, or relax by the pool while soaking in the sights and sounds of the bush.

Madikwe Game Reserve is not just a place, it is an experience. It is a journey back in time, a chance to connect with nature and reconnect with yourself. So why not take a trip to Madikwe and discover the magic for yourself?

Anton Crone takes a different path and explores the untamed beauty of Madikwe.

I ignored the familiar turn-off to Sun City this time, choosing instead to venture into the wilderness of Madikwe. In the past, when I worked in Joburg during the ‘90s, Sun City was my go-to destination for a weekend getaway. Little did I know what awaited me beyond those city lights.

As we drove past the Pilanesberg, memories of Sun City flooded my mind. I shared stories with my wife, Sarah – memories of rock concerts, extravagant dancers, and the sounds of spinning wheels and clinking coins. But as the hills disappeared in the rearview mirror, we fell silent and became more mesmerized by the vibrant hues of the landscape than by the allure of gambling.

As I traveled through the dusty pastures of this place, it was clear that people also loved to take risks and gamble. I could see small herds of goats and cattle grazing in the fields, giving the villages a more rustic feel. The buildings were no longer made of brick but had been replaced with simple wood and daub.

Once I passed through Molatedi Gate on the outskirts of Madikwe Game Reserve, it felt like I had stepped back in time. Within minutes, I found myself surrounded by the magnificent presence of elephants. A herd of approximately 40 elephants gracefully crossed the road in front of our car. The little baby elephants would waddle under the legs of their protective elders.

Although these elephants are relatively new to the area, the most recent population census revealed that there are approximately 900 elephants in Madikwe. This makes it the place with the highest concentration of elephants within a protected area in South Africa.

When my companions and I headed north, we stumbled upon a second herd in an area where the red earth transformed into magnificent granite hills. That’s when we decided to make our first stop at Madikwe Hills Private Game Lodge. This place exuded pure luxury and stretched across the vast landscape, nestled amid awe-inspiring boulders and acacia trees. As we strolled along the winding boardwalks, the air echoed with the lively cackles of iNhlekabafazi, the isiZulu term for the green wood hoopoes, also known as laughing women. Every time we approached our chalet’s entrance, they put on a vibrant chorus to welcome us.

Our place of residence was nothing short of extraordinary. One of its walls was a cool boulder, which added a unique touch to our abode. A staircase sculpted from stone led us to an expansive bathroom. On the outside, we discovered yet another bath and shower, both completely open to the sky. Above a plunge pool, a wooden staircase took us to a deck that overlooked the sprawling plains. From there, we could witness thirsty elephants finding solace at a nearby waterhole, their contented rumbling filling the air.

I couldn’t bear to tear myself away from this incredible sight, but hunger got the best of me. So I headed over to the dining area, where the view was even more spectacular. This waterhole was much bigger, and it was bustling with elephants, wildebeest, and even a daring jackal sneaking through the crowd to grab a refreshing drink.

Let me tell you about the perfect lodge location. It’s the kind of place you never want to leave. I met the owner, Hannes Kruger, who hadn’t left the lodge in 12 years. Every once in a while, he would go on vacation to the park named after him in the Lowveld. He told me that the two places are completely different, like entering another world. Hannes made sure I was comfortable and introduced me to Missy, his 11-year-old Staffie, who had been living there since she was a puppy. Lucky dog!

The head guide, Ernst van Grunning, and tracker, Sydney Malthoko, took us to explore the wildlife. Ernst has worked in places like Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, Mkuzi, and Sabi Sands, but his beard was wilder than all of them. He really enjoyed Madikwe because he could track animals off-road. Sydney, on the other hand, had incredible eyesight when it came to tracking.

We didn’t have to wait long until we found ourselves following two lionesses, each accompanied by their young cubs. Their beautiful golden fur caught our eyes from a distance, and we eagerly pursued them through the bushes. Our skilled guide, Ernst, expertly maneuvered the vehicle, weaving between the thickets until we arrived at a majestic shepherd tree. And there it was, a fresh wildebeest kill, proudly claimed by the lioness. The hungry cubs raced ahead, ready for a bloody feast. The sound of teeth gnashing on bones and the low growls filled the air, creating a thrilling soundtrack.

This was only the beginning of our daily adventure. Every morning and evening, we embarked on drives brimming with wildlife encounters. It almost felt too good to be true, as if it was all staged just for us. But Ernst and Sydney didn’t leave anything to chance. They had a plan, a combination of radio reports and skilled tracking on foot when the dense bush made it necessary. The excitement never ceased, and each drive brought new and awe-inspiring wildlife moments.

As I stopped near a river one morning, I saw fresh tracks and followed them. Before I knew it, I was walking faster than before. When I got back to the vehicle, I saw a lion with a beautiful, blonde mane about 80 meters behind me. Two lionesses followed close behind. They strolled towards the water, took a refreshing drink, and then laid down to take a nap.

Just then, the radio buzzed with news of cheetah sightings in the southwest the night before. After searching the area, I saw a small patch of blood in the grass, evidence of a recent meal. I carefully examined the tracks in a wider and wider circle until I could determine the direction the cheetahs had gone. Ernst confidently predicted that we would find them on a termite mound a couple of kilometers away.

Sure enough, when we arrived, the cheetahs were right there on the termite mound!

I had a remarkable experience one morning when I encountered a lion with a captivating black mane strolling down the sandy red path as if it belonged to him. It was as if he exuded an air of ownership. In awe, we followed him as he uttered deep, gravelly roars. Eventually, he led us to another lion with a blonde mane, whom Ernst informed us was his brother. They seemed to have a good relationship, as the lion approached the blonde one and emitted a snort. From a distance, he then assumed a menacing expression.

Later that day, an exhilarating event unfolded as we found ourselves surrounded by wild dogs. They emerged from a river bank and frantically searched for their next prey, constantly sniffing the air for any trace of its scent. Once they detected it, their tails, each with a distinct white tip, stood erect like beacons, and with unwavering determination, they dashed off into the fading light.

I said goodbye to iNhlekabafazi the next day, but I stayed a bit longer at Madikwe Hills to watch two klipspringers jumping along the rocks between the chalets. There was never a boring moment in the hills. That morning, I had breakfast while a colorful bush snake looked down at me from a tree, where masked weavers were busy building their nests among the acacia thorns.

After tearing myself away from Madikwe Hills, I headed south to a different kind of forest – a lush riverine forest along the Marico River. This area is home to orange-breasted bush shrikes, woodland kingfishers, and Meyer’s parrots, who prefer tall and shady trees. It’s also home to Jaci’s Tree Lodge, where I was welcomed by the melodic song of a bushshrike when I arrived at my treehouse suite, which I reached by walking on a boardwalk that floated through the tamboti trees.

The deck of the treehouse blended with the shadows below, and the roof made of thatch, wood, and glass walls seemed to become one with the surrounding nature. The inside of the treehouse was adorned with colorful decorations that mirrored the vibrant feathers of the birds.

Jaci van Heteren, the owner of this delightful lodge, along with her husband Jan, is a lively and vibrant person. We had the pleasure of meeting Jaci on the brand-new viewing deck that overlooked a large waterhole. In the evenings, this deck transformed into a dining area where talented chefs cooked delicious meals over an open fire, while lights illuminated the activity happening at the water’s edge. “During the lockdown, I practically lived up here, using the viewing deck as my office,” Jaci shared. She also mentioned that this time allowed her to slow down and appreciate the little things.

I was chatting with Jaci, and suddenly, a big group of elephants walked right next to us. They were moving along the water’s edge. While we were talking, we saw weaver birds flying by with new nesting materials, antelope walking back and forth, and even a young crocodile hiding in the water, waiting for an opportunity to catch some yellow-billed storks.

One afternoon, as I looked out from the appropriately named Terrapin Hide, a surprise awaited us. The hide’s viewing ports, just above the water, offered an exceptional view of the wildlife. Elephants were so close that you could almost reach out and touch them as they drank from the nearby bank. On the opposite side, the activity was bustling, making it a paradise for photographers. It was during the filming of a playful elephant calf, waving its trunk in the air, that the crocodile suddenly emerged from the water. With its golden green eyes, it stared directly at me.

As I explored Jaci’s Safari Lodge, I couldn’t help but notice the watchful eyes of another creature. Outside one of the new luxury Star Bed Suites, a clever African scops owl hid in a tree, blending in seamlessly with its bark-patterned feathers. Its calls of warning gave it away, and although it was small, it proved to be quite the challenge to spot. It seemed to taunt us, never moving, as we tried to break its stare.

In contrast to the owl’s camouflage, the Star Bed Suites at Jaci’s Safari Lodge were bursting with color and vibrancy. The rear walls of these luxurious accommodations showcased captivating wildlife murals, courtesy of street artist Falko One from Cape Town. It was a delightful and unique twist on traditional safari decor, adding a touch of excitement to the experience.

In addition to exploring the magnificent wildlife, we didn’t just stay in one place. I accompanied guide Dwayne de Lange on excursions to the western part of the reserve, close to the border with Botswana. These expeditions allowed us to encounter seldom-seen creatures, like the aardwolf and spotted hyena pups. It was truly a remarkable sight to witness two hyena pups playfully frolicking near the entrance of their den as the sun began to set.

The presence of elephants was constant throughout our journey, and we were treated to the sight of towering giraffes gracefully feeding on tall trees in the river valley. We also had the pleasure of reuniting with our old companions, the lion pride we had encountered on our first day. This time, we found them devouring their latest fresh kill near the airstrip. It was a heartwarming welcome to our fly-in safari adventure.

Last night was a blast. Sarah and I had a few drinks and settled into the Naledi Treehouse. It was a bit more rustic, but the view of the waterhole was amazing. One thing that made it special was the hot tub, heated by a fire. We sat back, relaxing and admiring the stars reflecting on the water. At first, we didn’t see any wildlife, but then, out of nowhere, an African civet appeared below us. Its fur was spotted and shimmering under the lights.

As the civet searched along the water’s edge, a lapwing suddenly swooped down from the sky and attacked it. I guess the lapwing was trying to protect its eggs. The civet quickly darted away into the dark, and everything went quiet. All we could hear were crickets chirping. But then, at the far end of the clearing, a majestic grey animal emerged from the shadows. It moved silently, gliding toward the water. And there, right in front of us, it stopped and took a drink from the starry reflection.

Planning your trip

Heading to Madikwe Game Reserve is an adventure in itself. Located about 400km from Joburg, it’s roughly a four-and-a-half-hour drive. You have two routes you can take: one via Sun City and the other through Zeerust. Once you reach Molatedi Gate, the time it takes to reach your lodge will vary. No worries, though, because they provide a handy map of Madikwe at the gate. Just remember that only safari vehicles are allowed on the game drives, so you’ll need to use their transportation to explore the reserve.

What to do

If you’re looking for an unforgettable experience, Madikwe has something special for you. They offer the chance to participate in rhino notching activities, which is hands-on and truly remarkable. Now, I won’t lie to you, it’s not cheap. But the fees they charge for this experience go toward supporting the reserve’s notching program. This program is vital for tracking and monitoring the rhinos as part of their anti-poaching efforts. Plus, it helps build a DNA identification library for the rhinos, which is pretty amazing if you ask me.

Costs can add up when organizing a rhino notching experience. You’ll need a helicopter, a vet, and a tranquillizer. During the notching process, the vet will share fascinating and personal details about rhino biology, giving you a unique insight. And there’s a special moment when you can gently stroke the soft and velvety area behind the rhino’s ears – it’s an unforgettable experience that will stay with you.

There are other incredible activities available at the reserve, such as cheetah collaring and wild dog collaring. These premium activities offer unforgettable moments. If you’re interested in taking part, make sure to inquire about them when booking your stay as they require advance arrangements.

When it comes to accommodation, we have some recommendations for you. But if you want more options, you can also visit madikwegamereserve.co.za for additional places to stay within the reserve.

Our top recommendation is Jaci’s Tree Lodge. It offers a unique and comfortable experience surrounded by nature.

If you’re looking for family-friendly accommodations in the area, be sure to check out Jaci’s Safari Lodge, which offers a variety of options for families, including the exclusive Starbed Suites.

Now, let me tell you about Jamala Madikwe. The rooms are spacious and well-appointed, with cozy fireplaces and walk-in dressing rooms. The beds are adorned with stylish linens and face the great outdoors, so you can enjoy the action from the comfort of your room. The lodge also features multiple lounges, indoor and outdoor dining areas, and a small spa. The whole place is beautifully decorated with fabrics, stunning photographs, books, and board games – everything you need for a relaxing and indulgent getaway.

If you’re looking for even more luxury, there’s Madikwe Hills Private Game Lodge. Nearby, you’ll find Little Madikwe, a private villa that can accommodate four or five guests. The villa comes with its own safari vehicle and ranger, so you can enjoy personalized game drives. It also has a gourmet kitchen, a carefully selected wine collection, and a dedicated villa attendant to cater to your every need.

A version of this article originally appeared in the September 2022 print issue of Getaway. Words and photography by Anton Crone. Follow us on social media for more travel news, inspiration, and guides. You can also tag us to be featured.