Discover the Wildest Bush-Walking Experience in Africa at Luangwa National Park!

Hey there! Have you ever dreamed of immersing yourself in the untamed wilderness of Africa? Well, look no further because Luangwa National Park is the place for you!

Picture this: meandering through vast plains, dense forests, and shimmering rivers, all while encountering majestic wildlife at every turn. That’s the kind of adventure you can expect at Luangwa National Park.

When you step foot into this paradise, you’ll be met with a thrill like no other. It’s a place where the sights, sounds, and even the smells of Africa come alive. The rustle of leaves, the distant roars of lions, the sweet scent of wildflowers – all these sensations will surround you, making you feel like a true explorer.

One of the key attractions of Luangwa National Park is its diverse wildlife population. Here, you can come face to face with mighty elephants, graceful antelopes, and even the elusive leopard. If birdwatching is your thing, you’ll be awestruck by the vast array of colorful birds that call this park home.

But the adventure doesn’t stop there. Luangwa National Park offers an unrivaled bush-walking experience. When you embark on a guided bush-walking safari, you’ll have the chance to get up close and personal with the park’s incredible ecosystem. Imagine walking alongside a river, observing hippos basking in the sun or crossing paths with a herd of giraffes.

And if you’re lucky, you might even spot a pride of lions or catch a glimpse of a leopard camouflaged among the trees. You’ll feel your heart race as you witness these magnificent creatures in their natural habitat. It’s an experience that will leave you in awe of the beauty and power of the African wilderness.

But here’s the thing – as thrilling as it all is, it’s important to remember that this is their home, not ours. We must respect and appreciate the wildlife, maintaining a safe distance and following the expert guidance of our knowledgeable guides.

So, if you’re ready for the wildest adventure of your life, Luangwa National Park is waiting to welcome you with open arms. Get ready to explore, discover, and be amazed by the untamed beauty that Africa has to offer. Book your bush-walking safari today and embark on a journey that will leave you with memories to last a lifetime!

Have you ever heard of North Luangwa National Park in Zambia? It’s a truly extraordinary place that is so remote and difficult to reach that it’s completely inaccessible during the wet season. This means that there are very few roads, and even fewer people, making it one of the most untouched and wild areas for bush-walking experiences in all of Africa. When I visited, I had the privilege of being led by a local from Zambia, who was a true expert in navigating and exploring the park.

Words: Sarah Kingdom

If you’re up for an adventure, North Luangwa is the place to be. This hidden gem is tucked away in Zambia and boasts a unique feature – it’s only accessible by foot. That’s right, there are no roads here, so if you want to explore its hidden treasures, you’ll have to rely on your own two feet.

I’m lying on my stomach in the shallow water of the Mwaleshi River, right in the middle of North Luangwa National Park in Zambia. I’m with two young boys who are playing pretend, pretending to be bulldozers and trying to bury me with sand from the river. Our watchful game scout, who is armed, is up on the bank, calling out to us and pointing out a magnificent male lion. It’s standing at a bend in the river, a few hundred meters away. The two boys and I stand up, and the lion stops in the middle of the stream. It looks in our direction, and we all lock eyes. Once it gives us a piercing look, it continues crossing to the other side of the river. We get out of the water, climb up the sandy bank, and start walking, hoping to find the rest of the lion pride. Around the bend, we spot them. They’re busy devouring a dead buffalo that has fallen down a steep bank and gotten stuck in a bush just above the water.

The Great Rift Valley stretches down into the northeast of our country and that’s where you’ll find the Luangwa River. This river is a tributary of the Zambezi and over time, it has carved out a truly amazing landscape. We call this place North Park, and it’s like stepping into a whole new world- one that is wild and remote. You won’t find many roads or vehicles here, and even fewer visitors. It’s a place where you can truly get away from it all and connect with nature. When you come here, you’ll be greeted by a vast wilderness that covers 4,636 square kilometers. The best way to explore this untamed beauty is by foot, and while you’re here, chances are you won’t see any other visitors.

My husband and I have gone on many self-drive trips from our farm in Mkushi, which is in Zambia’s Central Province, into North Luangwa. On this particular trip, we were lucky enough to have our friends and their two young boys join us. Their boys were only two and five years old, but they were just as excited as we were to be exploring this incredible place.

As I walked into Mwaleshi, the massive trees above provided a cooling shade, creating the perfect ambiance for the bar and dining area.

My journey began at Samala Camp, located just outside the park and conveniently near Mano Gate – the northwestern entrance. This camp is truly a gem, situated on the banks of the Mwaleshi River, which is the heart and soul of the park. Samala offers a couple of spacious permanent tents, each with its own ensuite, and there are plans to add a few more in the future. The camp also features a well-equipped kitchen and a combined dining, lounge, and braai area right by the river. Downstream, there’s a picturesque campsite where you can pitch your tent on the soft mossy ground, surrounded by a canopy of beautiful trees.

When I arrived at Samala, I was immediately struck by the rugged beauty of the river. It was rocky, cool, and narrow, with the water flowing swiftly over the rapids. The sound of the gurgling water was so relaxing that it lulled me to sleep at night.

Waking up in the morning, I was greeted by a symphony of birdsong, their melodies competing with the rushing river. As I sipped my coffee by the crackling fire, I couldn’t help but feel connected to nature in this tranquil setting.

Even though Samala is located outside the boundaries of the park, there were still plenty of signs of wildlife to be found. As I walked downstream, I came across piles of white poop on the riverbank, which I knew to be the unmistakable evidence of hyenas roaming the area.

The river widened into pools in some places, and it was there that I discovered deep hippo footprints embedded in the soft mud. It was a reminder that these magnificent creatures were not far away.

As I rounded a corner along the river, I suddenly came face to face with a pair of elephants. They were engrossed in tearing branches off the trees, completely oblivious to my presence. In that moment, I felt both awe and a touch of fear. I decided to quietly retreat, making a hasty exit in reverse.

Samala is a place that truly captures the essence of wildlife and the untamed beauty of nature. It is an experience like no other, allowing you to immerse yourself in the sights and sounds of the natural world. If you’re seeking a getaway that will awaken your senses and leave you in awe, then Samala is the perfect destination for you.

After a long hike through the bush, the refreshing water of the Mwaleshi River is the perfect remedy for tired feet.

Heading towards Mwaleshi Camp for a few days of walking, we embarked on a walking safari in North Luangwa, a truly unique way to experience this secluded area. Walking through the bush provides a completely different perspective; every sound and movement is heightened. The calls of pukus and baboons, the roars of lions, and the trumpets of elephants constantly remind you of the wildlife around you. On a walking safari, you learn to appreciate the small things – animal tracks, the scents of the bush, and the intricate details of flowers and insects.

When I arrived at Mwaleshi Camp, I was surprised to see how different the river looked compared to Samala. The once fast-paced and noisy stream had transformed into a wide and peaceful body of water. It had slowed down and become filled with sand. It was a completely different experience.

One thing I appreciated about Mwaleshi Camp was their commitment to minimizing their impact on the park. They had a unique approach to the construction of their rooms – every year, they rebuilt them from scratch using reeds. This ensured that they left no trace behind and allowed nature to restore itself. It was a thoughtful way of practicing sustainability.

The camp itself was simple yet charming. The main building had a cozy lounge, a bar, and a dining area. What amazed me was that not a single nail was used in the construction of the building. It was a testament to the creativity and craftsmanship of the builders.

But what impressed me the most was the food. Despite having limited resources, the chef at Mwaleshi Camp was a true master. With just a cast iron stove, an earth oven, and an open fire, they managed to create incredible meals. It was a reminder that sometimes, simplicity can lead to extraordinary results.

When I stepped out from Mwaleshi later that day, I could immediately sense the fragrant aroma of Natal mahogany flowers hanging in the air. For the next three hours, I made my way through tall grass, crossed rivers, and navigated around branches in an immersive journey. The Luangwa Valley is a bird-watcher’s paradise with about 400 different species documented in this area. As I trekked, I was treated to a spectacle of soaring birds displaying their acrobatic skills as they darted through the sky, hunting for insects.

When I think back to that night in camp, it was like something out of a storybook. Everything felt so pure and authentic, just like in the movie Out of Africa. We had to heat our shower water over a fire, which made me feel connected to nature in a way I had never experienced before. And oh, the sunsets! As the sun dipped below the horizon, the water of the river transformed into a mesmerizing display of orange and scarlet, like liquid silk.

But dinner…dinner was the real highlight of the evening. We dined in true safari style, with white linen tablecloths and candles casting a warm, flickering glow. The sound of lions roaring in the distance only added to the magic of the moment. Each course was paired with a delicious wine, and we savored every bite as we listened to the symphony of nature surrounding us.

As the night grew darker, the river came alive with mysterious splashes. It was as if the animals were joining us for a midnight swim, their movements hidden by the cover of darkness. It was a humbling reminder that we were not alone in this vast wilderness.

That night in camp will forever be etched in my memory as one of the most extraordinary experiences of my life. It was a true immersion into the untamed beauty of Africa, a place where nature reigns supreme and the boundaries between humans and wildlife blur into the night.

When you step into Mwaleshi, prepare to be amazed by the incredible dishes that come out of the rustic kitchen.

A typical day at North Luangwa begins bright and early at around 5 in the morning. After a quick wash, I enjoy a cup of coffee and a delicious breakfast by the campfire. Then, it’s time to embark on a five-hour walk, crossing the refreshingly cool Mwaleshi River as the sun starts to illuminate the surroundings.

During our walk, we had a special encounter with a magnificent bull elephant. We followed him from a safe distance, observing his every move. As he made his way across the river, he suddenly caught our scent and stopped in his tracks. His ears twitched with curiosity, and he raised his trunk to sniff the air. After determining that we posed no threat, he continued on his journey, disappearing into the lush vegetation on the other side of the Mwaleshi.

Did you know that just three hours’ walk (or a quick one-hour drive) downstream from Mwaleshi Camp, you’ll find the hidden gem known as Takwela? This amazing place is located in the Game Management Area, right on the opposite side of the river from the park. As I approached the camp, I couldn’t help but be mesmerized by the lush surroundings, filled with African ebony, mahogany, winterthorne, sausage trees, and even a few Ilala palms. The camp itself is nestled above the water, offering stunning views of the river.

Takwela features four spacious, thatched rooms that are scattered along the river bank. From each room, you can enjoy breathtaking sights of the national park just across the river. But here’s the really cool part: the camp is situated right at the confluence of the Mwaleshi and Luangwa rivers. Right in front of the camp, you’ll see a group of around 50 hippos; they’re a bit grumpy, but fascinating to watch. And get this – they’re only a few meters away from the dining room and lounge area!

Imagine standing on a hill and looking down at Takwela Camp, where the Mwaleshi and Luangwa rivers come together. It’s a breathtaking sight.

Every morning, I would hop into a canoe and paddle across the river before embarking on a thrilling adventure into the park. I followed the tracks of leopards and hyenas, discovering a pair of majestic lions taking a siesta under the cool shade of a magnificent mahogany tree. As I walked along the sandy shores, I noticed the swirling marks left by the powerful tails of crocodiles, the gentle scrapes made by the bristles on a hippo’s chin, and the distinct imprints left by both large and small elephants. The damp river sand revealed the unmistakable indentations of zebra hooves. It was as if I had stepped into a whole new world, completely immersed in the wonders of the bush.

Just 20km away from Takwela, on the other side of the Luangwa River, you’ll find the North Luangwa River Lodge & Camp. Nestled along the riverbank and surrounded by a picturesque grove of ancient Leadwood trees, the camp features cozy thatched bungalows connected by raised wooden decks, offering breathtaking views of the flowing river below. Every evening, we had the pleasure of sitting on the deck, beneath the sprawling branches of a massive sausage tree, to watch the sun slowly dip below the horizon. It was a magical experience. And if we were lucky, a herd of elephants would join us near the water, creating their own version of sundowners. As soon as darkness fell, a magnificent orange moon would emerge, casting its mesmerizing glow across the sky.

Returning to camp after a game drive in the park is always an incredible experience – especially during the dry season!

At night, as I lie in bed, I’m serenaded by a lively bush orchestra that helps me drift off to sleep. And in the mornings, there’s nothing better than sitting on my veranda in my pajamas, coffee in hand, watching the breathtaking colors of the sunrise.

One morning, I went out with our scout shortly after sunrise, and we found ourselves hot on the trail of some lions. We followed their tracks closely, but unfortunately, we couldn’t catch up to them. As we made our way along the river’s edge, we stumbled upon some black rhino tracks in the sand. This discovery filled us with excitement, and we even spotted the dedicated game scouts who work tirelessly to protect these reintroduced rhinos in the park. However, the actual rhinos remained elusive, eluding our sight time and time again.

As I left the park days later, heading back home, I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. Just around the corner, there it was – an incredible sight that North Luangwa is known for: a massive herd of buffalo, stretching as far as the eye could see. There must have been hundreds of them, all streaming across the road. It was truly a remarkable way to conclude my visit.

As I prepare dinner at Takwela, the magical time known as sundowners begins.

While you’re in the neighborhood

When you’re at Samala Camp, there are a couple of fantastic day trips you can take to visit some beautiful waterfalls. One option is Kapamba Falls, a breathtaking waterfall that offers stunning views of the Luangwa Valley. Another option is Lufila Falls, situated on the Lufila River at the northern boundary of the national park.

If you’re planning a self-drive adventure to North Luangwa, there are several other destinations that you can include in your itinerary. For example, you can visit Kasanka National Park, explore the colonial estate of Stuart Gore Browne known as Shiwa Ng’andu (which has a fascinating biography called The Africa House by Christina Lamb), soak in the natural wonders of Kapishya Hot Springs, venture into Luambe National Park, or explore the renowned South Luangwa National Park.

All the lodges in North Luangwa have amazing guides. They’re really knowledgeable and passionate about the park. And speaking of the park, it’s also got highly trained game scouts who keep a close eye on everything that’s happening.

Now, let me tell you about something really cool. Rhinos used to be in big trouble here. A long time ago, people were poaching them like crazy. By 1998, there were hardly any rhinos left in Zambia. It was a really sad situation. But then, something amazing happened.

In 2003, a project started to bring rhinos back to North Luangwa. They called it a “reintroduction” project. They brought five black rhinos here and put them in a special zone where they would be safe. Over the years, more and more rhinos were brought here, and now, North Luangwa is the only place in Zambia where you can see black rhinos. It’s pretty incredible!

The park itself has been around since 1972. But now, it’s run by the North Luangwa Conservation Programme. This is a special partnership between the Frankfurt Zoological Society and the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife. They work together to make sure the park is taken care of and protected.

Getting to North Luangwa is a bit tricky. You can only go by plane or with a 4×4 vehicle. And even then, you can only visit during the dry season, which is from June to October. But let me tell you, it’s definitely worth it. The park is absolutely stunning, and with the amazing guides and game scouts, you’re sure to have an unforgettable experience.

When I’m at Samala, I can’t help but be amazed by the Mwaleshi River. It’s this incredible river that flows so quickly, with all its bubbling and movement. It’s truly a sight to behold.

Welcome to the Trip Planner!

How to Get There

To reach the beautiful North Luangwa National Park, you’ll need to follow these directions: From Mpika, it’s a 95km journey to Mano Gate. Once you’re on the Great North Road, turn east at Lwanya village (also known as Chitembo on Google Maps). Look for the sign that points you in the direction of Samala Camp, which is about 42km away. It’s advisable to have a 4×4 vehicle for this part of the trip. Once you pass through Mano Gate, it’s just a short 3km drive to Samala. If you’re planning to stay at Mwaleshi Camp, it’s about 40km from Samala. And if North Luangwa River Lodge is your final destination, you’ll need to drive another 60km from Mwaleshi Camp.

If you’re coming from the south, you can reach the park via Chifunda Pontoon. This route requires driving 180km from Mfuwe Bridge, passing through Luambe National Park. The pontoon road that runs through the middle of the park will take you 60km to Mano Gate.

When I arrive at Mwaleshi Camp after a 40km journey downstream, everything feels so relaxed and serene. I mean, who wouldn’t in such a picturesque place, right?

Take a Break

If you’re looking for a place to stay, I highly recommend Ituba Camp. They’ve really stepped up their game with four beautiful ensuite Safari Tents that come with everything you need for a self-catering experience. They also have three camp sites with toilets and showers. The rates are quite reasonable too, starting at just US$25 per person per night for the Safari Tents, and US$10 per person per night for camping.

If you’re up for something more adventurous, you should definitely check out Mwaleshi and Takwela Camps. Mwaleshi is a seasonal camp that offers comfortable reed mat rooms and bucket showers whenever you want. On the other hand, Takwela is a permanent camp with brick, thatch, and timber structures. The bathrooms are open to the sky, and the showers even have a view of the river. The full board rate for SADC members is just $455 per person. You can find more information at [email protected] or visit their website at remoteafrica.com/mwaleshi-camp/.

Welcome to North Luangwa River Lodge! We have created a unique and comfortable environment for you to enjoy your stay. Our lodge consists of four rooms built on stilts, connected by wooden decking. You will also find a separate and spacious dining area, bar, lounge, and deck where you can relax and take in the beautiful surroundings.

When it comes to accommodations, we offer a variety of options to suit your needs. Our bungalows are available for self-catering and can accommodate multiple guests. The SADC rate for these bungalows is $130 per person, including the use of our camp chef to prepare your meals. If you prefer a more adventurous experience, we also offer camping options for $35 per person per night. And for those who want to indulge in the full North Luangwa River Lodge experience, our full board package is available for $290 per person per night.

At North Luangwa River Lodge, we understand the importance of providing a comfortable and enjoyable stay for our guests. We strive to create a welcoming atmosphere where you can relax and unwind. Whether you’re exploring the beautiful surroundings or simply taking in the tranquility of the lodge, we guarantee that your time with us will be unforgettable.

Out in the African wilderness, a place called the Luangwa Valley, there are hippos. Lots and lots of hippos. They’re probably the most crowded bunch of hippos in all of Africa. And let me tell you, their arguing never stops. It’s like a never-ending background soundtrack, especially at Takwela and North Luangwa River Lodge.

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