Embarking on an Epic 4×4 Adventure in Namibia’s Kaokoland

Hey there! I want to share with you an awe-inspiring experience that you definitely shouldn’t miss – a wild 4×4 trip through the mesmerizing Kaokoland in Namibia. This place is truly special and will leave you in awe.

Imagine cruising through vast, untouched landscapes, where the rugged beauty of the desert meets the rich cultural heritage of local tribes. It’s an adventure like no other, and I guarantee it will ignite your sense of adventure.

Let me guide you through some crucial details to ensure your trip is a success:

Choosing the Right Vehicle

The first step is finding the perfect 4×4 vehicle. You need a mighty beast that can handle the rough terrain and river crossings. Make sure it’s equipped with an extra fuel tank, as the nearest gas station might be hundreds of miles away.

Understanding the Landscape

Kaokoland is a land of contrasts, with towering mountains and barren deserts. You’ll encounter everything from sandy riverbeds to rocky hillsides. Being aware of the diverse terrain will help you navigate through this wonderland.

Respecting the Local Culture

As you explore Kaokoland, you’ll have the chance to meet the Himba people – one of Africa’s most traditional tribes. It is essential to respect their customs, traditions, and way of life. Remember, we are visitors in their world.

Being Self-Sufficient

During your journey, it’s crucial to be fully self-sufficient. Pack plenty of water, non-perishable food, and camping gear. There are limited facilities available, so having everything you need will ensure a comfortable trip.

Interacting with Wildlife

While traversing Kaokoland, you’ll encounter incredible wildlife, such as desert-adapted elephants and the elusive black rhino. Always observe from a safe distance and never disturb or feed them. Let’s keep these majestic creatures living freely in their natural habitat.

Now, you might be wondering, how do I find my way through these untamed lands? Let me introduce you to GPS devices and offline maps, which will become your best friends along this remarkable journey. They’ll guide you through the maze of tracks and ensure you don’t miss any hidden gems.

Lastly, a piece of advice: travel with a group if possible. Not only does it enhance safety, but it also opens the door to unforgettable shared experiences. So grab your adventurous buddies and embark on this wild expedition together!

Get ready, my friend, to immerse yourself in the untamed beauty of Kaokoland. This exhilarating 4×4 trip will leave you with a deep sense of wonder and a lifetime of cherished memories. Don’t hesitate – start planning your journey and get ready to be blown away!

A couple had a dream to drive from Cape Town to Kaokoland and conquer Namibia’s famous Van Zyl’s Pass. And when their son graduated, they transformed that dream into a thrilling adventure. These stunning pictures were captured by Robbert Koene, and the story is shared by Gerda Genis in her own words.

Look at this picture on the left. It’s an aerial view of the Marienfluss, where you can see Landies driving through something called fairy circles. And on the right, there’s a Himba woman sharpening a tool.

Why should you go there?

• If you’re from South Africa, going to Namibia is still quite affordable because their currency is tied to the rand.
• For all the 4×4 enthusiasts out there, Namibia is a dream destination. You’ll find some of the best sand-dune driving in the world, along with challenging dry riverbeds and rocky passes.
• If you want a truly freeing travel experience, wild camping in Kaokoland is the way to go. It’s completely untouched, the distances are vast, and the silence is overwhelming.

“Foxy Lady, come in for Thundercat! We recommend pulling off the road at your earliest convenience.”

“Got it! We’re right behind you, Thundercat.”

Just two minutes later, we come to a stop in a muddy open space right off the road. It’s 7pm and the darkness is complete. Rain is pouring down, making it impossible to see more than a few meters ahead. Driving seems pointless, so we turn up the volume until the sound of Hotel California completely drowns out the angry rain hitting us from above. The radio crackles and suddenly, Highway to Hell bursts through, distorted and intense. We glance to our left and grin. Mike’s Land Rover is packed with three heads of bobbing hair, all bouncing to the rhythm like there’s no tomorrow. Carpe diem.

Here I am, cruising through the roads of Namibia, on my way from Keetmanshoop to Windhoek, and eventually to Etosha. The rain was just pouring down, making the journey even more challenging. But, as quickly as it had arrived, the rain suddenly stops. With determination, we continue our drive, trying to make up for the lost time.

Driving in the dark is never advised, especially in Africa, and even more so when the roads are wet. But here we are, racing against the clock, trying to fit a three-week 4×4 adventure into just 15 days. It’s a bit of a crazy feat, but we’re up for the challenge.

I’m Mike, and I’m here to share an exciting journey with you. It’s a dream come true for me and my son, Benn. After Benn finished his studies in Amsterdam, we didn’t waste any time. We invited our good friend, Mike, and his girlfriend, Cieara, to join us on this epic adventure. With our trusty Land Rover Defender Td5s, we embarked on a thrilling journey from Cape Town to Namibia’s untamed frontier, with the famous Van Zyl’s Pass as our ultimate destination.

The first couple of days were spent mostly on the road. We had to go through a border crossing at Noordoewer, and although we made a few stops for photos, our main focus was on reaching our destination. During the drive, we kept ourselves entertained with snacks, books, and music, while eagerly anticipating the adventures that awaited us. Finally, after what seemed like forever, we arrived at Okahanja, which is 70 kilometers north of Windhoek. We stocked up on supplies for our two-day camping trip in Etosha, and then treated ourselves to a cozy night in a chalet at the King’s Highway rest camp.

As I wake up the next day, I make my way to Okaukuejo Camp, which is located 17 kilometers inside Anderson Gate, the entrance to Etosha National Park. It’s the oldest and largest camp in the park, and its most fascinating feature is a waterhole that remains filled all year round. At night, the waterhole is beautifully illuminated, attracting all sorts of wildlife. But be careful! Once the sun sets, mischievous jackals sneak into the camp and cause chaos. They rummage through the trash cans and snatch anything resembling food. If you’re not careful, they might even steal your meal right off your plate when you’re not looking! As we wake up the next morning, we come across one of Robbert’s sandals in a bush, its leather strap torn to shreds! It seems those crafty jackals had quite the feast.

Let’s continue our journey northwards to the dusty town of Opuwo. It’s the last place where we can stock up on all the essentials before we head into Kaokoland. In Opuwo, we stumble upon a hidden gem – the infinity pool at the campsite of Opuwo Country Lodge. There, you can sit back and relax while you enjoy a refreshing gin and tonic. The best part is, you’ll have a breathtaking view of the expansive landscape.

After a relaxing day at the pool, we prepare ourselves for the next leg of our adventure. We quickly realize that Opuwo is bustling with vendors selling all sorts of trinkets. We take this opportunity to restock our fridges with fresh food and fill up our tanks with diesel. It’s important to be well-prepared before embarking on a 180-kilometer journey to Epupa, which we’ll reach by passing through the village of Okangwati.

As I wake up in the early morning, I see a soft mist rising from the powerful Epupa Falls onto the flatland.

Suddenly, the radio bursts with cheers as we arrive at the campsite of Epupa Falls Lodge. A haven of shady palm trees stretches along the Kunene River, just steps away from the thunderous Epupa Falls. The river serves as the natural boundary between Namibia and Angola, and this campsite is the perfect place to set up camp for a couple of days. With its warm and welcoming staff, along with a bar overlooking a lookout point, it’s an ideal spot for us to rest and relax. During our time here, we make a visit to a Himba settlement and spend the rest of our days exploring the falls and enjoying the refreshing rock pools. But before long, it’s time to face our ultimate challenge: Van Zyl’s Pass.

I wake up early because I want to get to Van Zyl’s Pass campsite before sunset. But as I drive, I get distracted by the amazing sights around me. The silence is so peaceful, and I can’t resist taking out my camera to capture the beauty of the flowers and lizards. I even decide to fly my drones to get some incredible aerial shots. Before I know it, it’s already dark outside again!

The road I’m on starts to become narrower and more rugged. It’s no longer a proper road, just a bumpy track. As the darkness surrounds me, the track turns into a series of cracks and ditches in a narrow passage and up a ravine. I have to turn on my flashlight and forget about taking pictures. I slowly move forward, carefully feeling my way along the track.

Finally, after what feels like forever, I arrive at Van Zyl’s Pass campsite. It’s already 11pm, and I am exhausted. I gather around the campfire with my companions, too tired to even think. We stay there until sleep takes over, and our tired bodies find rest without any dreams.

Breakfast is a big deal in my family. We take it seriously because we know that starting our day with a good meal gives us the energy we need to conquer whatever challenges come our way. And let me tell you, the challenge we face next is no joke.

The pass we’re about to tackle is like something out of a dream. It’s 12 kilometers of pure adrenaline, with heart-stopping descents that make our knees shake. The track is wild and unforgiving, but the views are absolutely breathtaking.

In Van Zyl’s Pass, our first challenging descent begins. The drone captures the entire scene, keeping a vigilant eye on us.

As we reach the first steep drop, I hop out of the car, followed by the rest of the group, cameras at the ready. We examine the track ahead, rearrange rocks, and discuss our options repeatedly. Robbert volunteers to go first, his forehead glistening with sweat as Mike guides him down, providing instructions through the radio, inch by inch, maneuvering around cracks and boulders. Progress is slow, but the excitement builds with every successful test of skill and nerve, provoking joyous celebrations.

At one point, the path ascends a hill, abruptly coming to a halt. We seize the opportunity to brew some coffee and take in the breathtaking view of the Marienfluss, adorned with its enigmatic fairy circles. The long hours spent in the car, the heat, the dust, and the muddied tires quickly fade into insignificance.

I had hoped to reach Marble Camp, just before Orupembe, but it turns out we underestimated the distance and arrived at our campsite extremely late, around 10pm. Fortunately, we were greeted with warm showers, which were a welcome relief after a long day of traveling. The next day, we headed into the dry Khumib riverbed, following it south until it joined with the Hoarusib River. Thanks to our trusty Tracks4Africa GPS software, we realized just in time that we were heading in the wrong direction, north instead of south, before sunset. We had accidentally taken a wrong turn into a tributary of the river, jeopardizing our chances of reaching Puros that night. It was the first time on this trip that we had to camp in the wilderness. We set up our tents in the soft sand beneath some palm trees, made a cozy fire, and took some breathtaking photos of the night sky. As we settled in for the night, there was an incredible silence that enveloped us, allowing us to sleep peacefully.

The next day, I head south in the Hoarusib riverbed towards Puros. This area is known for its diverse wildlife, including desert elephants, rhinos, and lions. As I make my way, I’m fascinated by a pair of giraffes and how they adapt to the harsh desert environment. Suddenly, I hear a distressing message over the radio – Thundercat is experiencing accelerator problems.

We manage to reach Puros, but to our dismay, we discover that the town’s only mechanic is currently in Sesfontein. We’re faced with a difficult decision: do we wait for the mechanic to return or do we push forward? Considering the situation, we decide that the best course of action is to keep going. Little do we know, we’re about to embark on a grueling 100-kilometer journey along one of the most incredibly bumpy roads in all of Namibia.

As I watch the wildebeest slowly cross the road in Etosha, a thought crosses my mind. What if something goes wrong? What if we lose our friends?

Despite these concerns, we decide to let Thundercat go ahead. We trust that we’ll be able to catch up with our friend, Mike, if anything happens along the way. Little did we know that this decision would lead to a series of unfortunate events.

As we continue our journey, we find ourselves stopping often to take photographs of the breathtaking scenery. However, this proves to be a big mistake. The road conditions are treacherous, forcing us to carefully navigate our way through bushes and dunes. At times, we are even forced to veer off track for over a kilometer.

On one such detour, disaster strikes. Mike’s vehicle breaks down, leaving us completely unaware of their whereabouts. With no radio contact due to their battery being dead, we are left feeling helpless and lost.

Arriving alone in Sesfontein, we are greeted by the sight of the setting sun. This peaceful scene is overshadowed by the harsh reality of our situation. Thundercat is without a GPS, road map, or radio. We have lost our adventurous companions in the vastness of nowhere. The darkness of the night descends upon us, leaving us feeling abandoned and vulnerable.

Finally, after six grueling hours, Thundercat limps into town, carrying a bottle of Captain Morgan and an epic tale. We gather at the hotel, and the three youngsters eagerly recount their harrowing experiences – driving at a snail’s pace of 20 kilometers per hour, surviving on cold baked beans. They also share heartwarming stories about the kind-hearted locals who came to their aid. As I listen, overwhelmed with relief and gratitude, I can’t help but feel a renewed faith in humanity.

The rest of our journey proceeds without any major mishaps (although we do have to tow Mike’s Defender for a grueling 280 kilometers to Swakopmund). The youngsters gradually morph into rugged desert bandits, their faces masked with bandanas and their hair tangled with dust. But instead of complaints, all we hear are happy voices. And our trusty Land Rover continues to bounce along to the rhythm of our adventure, as if it has a mind of its own.

What you need to know

Last month, I embarked on a thrilling adventure, exploring new horizons as I journeyed across vast distances. Over the course of 15 eventful days, we covered an impressive 6,500 kilometers. Although I must admit, a more relaxed pace with three weeks to spare would have been ideal. Nonetheless, the memories we created were truly priceless, making every kilometer worthwhile.

Inevitably, an expedition of this magnitude comes with its fair share of expenses. For our party of five, the total cost amounted to approximately R50,000. This sum encompassed various facets, with diesel costs accounting for R15,000, accommodations adding up to another R15,000, while the remaining R20,000 was dedicated to sustaining ourselves with nourishing food and delightful drinks.

One invaluable lesson I learned from this expedition is the importance of choosing the perfect time to embark on such a journey. Opting for the shoulder season, we found ourselves engulfed in nature’s embrace during the first two weeks of April. The weather was absolutely delightful, with daytime temperatures hovering around a comfortable 30°C, while the evenings gracefully rested at a modest 20°C. This blissful climate provided the ideal backdrop for our escapades. It’s worth mentioning, however, that during the sweltering summer months between November and April, the heat can be overwhelming. Conversely, the winter months from June to September bring incredibly cold nights, making it quite a challenge to stay cozy.

When you’re planning a trip to Kaokoland, there are a few crucial things you need to keep in mind. First and foremost, be aware that off-road distances in this region take considerably longer to cover compared to regular roads. So, having experience driving a 4×4 vehicle is absolutely essential, especially when tackling challenging routes like Van Zyl’s Pass and the riverbeds.

If you’re a South African, you won’t need a visa to enter Kaokoland. However, there are certain documents you must have on hand. These include a valid passport, driver’s license, certified copy of the vehicle’s registration papers in your name, and a letter of authority from the registered owner if the vehicle isn’t owned by you. In case you’re still making payments for the vehicle, you’ll need a letter of authority from the bank, along with the vehicle’s license papers and a ZA sticker. Do note that Opuwo is the last place to get diesel before entering Kaokoland, so plan accordingly.

What to do in Kaokoland

1. Visit a Himba tribe

One of the must-do activities in Kaokoland is visiting a Himba tribe. To arrange a visit, you can inquire about a guide at your campsite. The guide we encountered charged R150 per person and requested food for the tribe, which cost an additional R100 per person. Remember to always ask for permission before taking photographs, as a sign of respect for their culture and privacy.

2. Get a Namibian SIM Card

Make sure to grab a Namibian SIM card when you cross the border. It’s a handy tool for booking campsites and a great resource to have in case of emergencies. You can find one at mtc.com.na.

3. Explore the Enchanting White Lady of Brandberg

The White Lady of Brandberg is a world-renowned rock painting located in the Uis area. You don’t want to miss out on this incredible sight. Simply follow the GPS coordinates: S21° 6.657’ E14°39.760’.

Finally, after what seemed like an eternity of swallowing dust, I arrived at the Epupa Falls camp. What a relief! It’s pure bliss here.

Wondering where to stay in Kaokoland?

1. River Chalets

If you’re looking for a place to stay on the B1 road in Mariental, check out the River Chalets. You can get a self-catering chalet for two people starting at R600, or go camping for R100 per person.

2. King’s Highway Rest Camp

Near Okahandja, the King’s Highway Rest Camp offers comfortable chalets for two people starting at R510. If you prefer camping, it’s only R90 per person.

3. Okaukuejo Camp

For those visiting the Etosha National Park, the Okaukuejo Camp is a great option. They have electricity points, taps, and even a pool. Prices start at R136 per person, and R220 per site (maximum eight people).

4. Opuwo Country Lodge

Check out the Opuwo Country Lodge in Opuwo. They have a stunning rim-flow pool. If you choose to camp, they offer 12 campsites with water, electricity, and a braai. Rates start at R160 per person.

5. Epupa Falls Lodge & Campsite

Epupa Falls Lodge & Campsite, located in Epupa, is just a short distance from the captivating Epupa Falls. This delightful spot offers seven campsites, each equipped with a braai for your convenience. The cost is R125 per person, with a maximum limit of six people per site.

6. Van Zyl’s Pass Campsite

Located in Otjihende, Van Zyl’s Pass Campsite offers three spacious sites nestled beside a sandy riverbed. Every site comes with private ablutions, ensuring your comfort. No booking is required, and the price is R100 per person.

7. Marble Camp

If you find yourself in Orupembe, Marble Camp is a fantastic choice. They offer large private sites complete with braai areas, hot showers, and flushing toilets. No booking is necessary, and the price is R100 per person.

8. Fort Sesfontein Lodge

Although slightly expensive, Fort Sesfontein Lodge in Sesfontein provides a welcomed respite from the dusty surroundings. The price for a stay is R1150 per person.

9. Palmwag Lodge & Campsite

Palmwag Lodge & Campsite, found in Palmwag, offers 15 well-equipped sites featuring braais and plug points. This location is an ideal starting point for exploring the beautiful Damaraland. The price is R180 per person.

Tasty Treats: A Guide to Feeding and Quenching Your Thirst

Hey there! So, when it comes to grumbling tummies, I’ve got you covered. Let’s talk about what you should gobble up and drink when you’re out exploring. Don’t worry, it’s all super simple!

Now, when you’re wandering around, you’ll probably come across general stores in most towns. These places are like treasure chests filled with all the basic goodies you might need. From the essentials like bread to oh-so-delicious treats, they’ve got you covered.

If you happen to find yourself in Epupa, there’s a local wonder woman who makes the yummiest bread ever. Seriously, it’s a must-try! And guess what? She’ll even deliver straight to your campsite. Now that’s service!

By the way, this awesome article was first published in February 2016 by the super cool peeps at Getaway magazine. You might want to check it out for more travel inspo.

Oh, and just so you know, the prices mentioned here were accurate when this was published. But hey, things change, right? So, it’s always a good idea to double-check with the places you’re visiting before you head out.