Exploring Joburg: A Walking Tour of the Inner City

“Have you ever thought about what it’s like to have cockroaches in your house?” asks the rough, booming voice by my side.

That question catches me off guard. I’ve never really considered it. But now, standing at the intersection of Eloff and Pritchard Street in downtown Johannesburg, I can’t help but think about it. My gaze is fixed on the Cuthbert’s Building looming above us. The man’s persistent sales pitch continues, and our eyes meet briefly. He absentmindedly shuffles small plastic packets filled with blue crystals, the last of many street vendors lining the sidewalk.

Around the corner, I see people getting their hair braided on Eloff Street, offering various styles to choose from.

“It’s terrible!” he states emphatically, a solemn conclusion to his monologue.

And I gotta say, I can relate. Lucky for me, I’ve never had any run-ins with cockroaches in my own home. Growing up in a quaint, sheltered neighborhood in Pretoria, my biggest pest problem was dealing with a few pesky ants and the occasional rat scurrying around in the attic of our suburban house. Thankfully, they were far enough away to not give us any major headaches.

Across the street, we have the Markhams Building, also known as Markham’s Folly. It earned that nickname because, back in the day, people didn’t think this building had any staying power. Our guide, Tania, loves sharing little tidbits like this about the city’s architecture and history. As we stroll along, she often stops us to point out different landmarks and compares them to old photographs we have in our tour packet.

Speaking of which, we’re on the Past Experiences photographic tour, which comes with a handy little packet of information. It’s filled with fascinating facts and pictures that help bring the city’s history to life.

When I found myself at the Markhams Building, situated at the intersection of Pritchard and Eloff Street, I couldn’t help but pause and take in the magnificent view of the Barbican Building. It reminded me of the iconic architecture of Manhattan.

Past Experience offers a variety of walking tours in Johannesburg, and one of their remarkable tours is called “Through the Lens: 125 Years of Johannesburg Photography.” This particular tour focuses on the city’s architecture, history, and buildings. I was instantly captivated by the knowledgeable guide named Tania, who has a deep passion for the historical landmarks scattered throughout the city.

One of the landmarks Tania highlighted was the entrance of City Hall, located on Rissik Street. It holds a significant place in history, as it was once fortified with sandbags during the chaos of the Rand Revolt. As we made our way inside, I couldn’t help but admire the grandeur of the hall and the marvelous pipe organ that adorned the space. The entrance, adorned with intricately designed mosaic tiles, offered us a glimpse into the past and left me in awe.

If you have a penchant for history and architecture, then this tour is perfect for you. Not only will you be able to explore remarkable buildings like the Markhams and Barbican, but you’ll also have the opportunity to discover the hidden stories behind Johannesburg’s rich heritage. So why wait? Embark on this journey and immerse yourself in the wonders of Johannesburg’s past.

Don’t miss the chance to visit the City Hall entrance on President Street too!

I’m really excited about the condition of the old buildings in the city. Unfortunately, some of them, like the Rissik Street Post Office, are in a sad state of disrepair. But there is hope! Overall, there are signs of improvement in the city center. People are becoming more aware of the potential of these inner city spaces. This has led to the establishment of city improvement districts and various projects to revitalize the area. For example, the public library has been renovated and Oppenheimer Park has been uplifted. The park even has benches with inspiring quotes from the nearby market vendors. It’s amazing to see the transformation and the potential for these buildings to come back to life.

Check out the neglected Rissik Street Post Office building and the stunning “diamond” sculpture in Oppenheimer Park.

As we finish our tour and sit down to enjoy some scones in the luxurious tea room at the Rand Club, I can’t help but marvel at how much I’ve learned about the history of this city. But what truly astounds me is how effortless it feels to be here, at the heart of South Africa’s bustling metropolis. This is a place that I, like many others, have been conditioned to fear. Yet, now that I am here, I realize that it’s not as intimidating as it seems. In fact, on a quiet Saturday, you can explore the inner city without feeling overwhelmed by the towering buildings and busy streets that loom large from the highway.

Take a moment to appreciate the well-preserved charm of the Rand Club, which embodies the elegance of the colonial era.

Wow, what a memory that will always stay with me! The Kerk Street parade was filled with laughter and children playing their hearts out, shouting “Touch! Touch!” as they ran from one end to the other. And guess what? Right there, by the garbage bin, I found the most outrageous red goggles with fancy gold chains for only R25! It’s moments like these that make me appreciate the unexpected ease I felt in a city often portrayed negatively.

It’s clear that Johannesburg is gaining attention, and for good reason. I can feel a shift, as people start to see this city in a different and more positive light.

Just take a look at the growth happening in the inner city, especially on Market Street.

If you want to delve deeper into the city’s history and experiences, I highly recommend booking a tour or visiting Past Experience’s website for more information.

And if you’re interested in exploring Johannesburg through the lens of a photographer, don’t miss out on Marc Shoul’s incredible exhibition, Flatlands, at the Pretoria Art Museum until November 25, 2012.