Escaping to an Island: The Irresistible Temptation of Mauritius

Picture-perfect images fill your mind: crystal-clear turquoise coves with pristine beaches, luxurious resorts offering indulgent spas and exquisite cuisine. But what those glossy brochures fail to reveal is the unexpected charm of an alluring older woman who catches your eye at the bar or the pool, and even as you watch the sun set on the beach.

Ah, the allure of an island getaway! Once you step foot into these glamorous resorts, reality seems to dissipate. Your mind wanders, inhibitions fade, and before you know it, you’re sharing kisses with complete strangers after a few too many rum cocktails.

Mauritius welcomes you with open arms, infusing the air with the earthy aroma of fertility. It’s a place that seems to effortlessly overflow with abundance. The tropical heat and languid humidity create a dream-like state for visitors, while the fertile volcanic soil nourishes lush greenery that blankets the landscape. Some might call it downright steamy.

As I sat in the car with Hashish, my driver for the day, I tried my best to push the tempting invitation from a mysterious woman out of my mind. Instead, I found myself captivated by the enchanting tales Hashish shared while we drove past towering mountains.

These magnificent peaks, rising sharply into the sky, possess an array of captivating names. There’s Cat and Mouse, Madonna and Child, The Bodyguard, and a rather interesting one called Trois Mamelles, which translates to Three Tits.

However, the most iconic of them all is Pieter Both. This triangular-shaped peak boasts a colossal boulder that looks like a gigantic head perched precariously on top. Situated in the heart of the island, it is a prominent feature of the Moka range, which gracefully curves around the capital city of Port Louis.

When I first laid eyes on Pieter Both, I couldn’t help but be captivated. It’s not just because it’s the highest peak of the Moka range, but also because of the massive boulder perched precariously on its summit, resembling a bulging head. Legend has it that a milkman from the nearby village of Crève Coeur discovered the secret existence of fairies who sang enchanting melodies. However, the fairies warned him that revealing their secret to anyone would result in him turning into stone.

Unable to resist sharing the secret, the milkman betrayed the fairies and suffered the consequences. He was instantly transformed into a stone figure, and his swollen head became the distinct peak we now know as Pieter Both. It’s a haunting reminder to honor promises made, forever etched into the landscape. Interestingly, the peak isn’t actually named after the unfortunate milkman, but after the first governor-general of the Dutch East Indies.

Experience the Magic

It was in the vicinity of the milkman’s village that I had my first taste of Mauritius. It wasn’t just a simple introduction; it was a full-fledged immersion into the beauty and wonder of this incredible place.

Let’s talk about a special kind of date – a culinary date, to be precise.

When my friends and I arrived at Escale Creole (which translates to “Creole Stopover”), it was pouring rain. Hashish, our guide for the day, had a unique solution: “If you want the rain to stop, you’ll have to clean your plate.”

Drenched from the rain, I hurried towards a covered verandah where Marie-Christine Forget greeted us warmly. “Please, have a seat,” she said, leading us to our table. As soon as we sat down, we were served platters of delicious snacks – coconut chutney, banana chips, and breadfruit fritters.

Marie-Christine and her mother, Maja, started this restaurant 25 years ago on their family’s land. The verandah we were sitting on seemed like an extension of their home.

Escale Creole is a humble and welcoming place, filled with laughter and joy. Mauritian sega music played in the background, adding to the lively atmosphere. The staff seemed to be in high spirits, joining in the conversations happening around the restaurant.

I had the pleasure of indulging in an abundance of snacks, which were soon replaced by generous plates of homemade sausages swimming in a flavorful tomato stew called rougaille. The table was adorned with pots filled to the brim with aromatic fish and a tantalizingly spicy octopus curry.

I heeded the wise advice of Hashish and savored every bite, going back for more several times. And just like in a magical story, by the time we made our way back to the car for a short journey to Port Louis on the other side of the mountain, the rain had ceased.

When we arrived at the renowned Victorian-era central market, we were welcomed by a kaleidoscope of colors and a symphony of competing aromas. The stalls were brimming with breadfruit, oversized green litchis, and vibrant red dragonfruit, giving the place an exotic flair. The spice vendors and specialized stalls, including one boasting an aphrodisiac potion, added to the market’s allure.

After exploring the market, I decided to venture into the vibrant Chinese quarter of the city. It was a sight to behold, with pagodas, colorful street art, and Sino-Mauritius food stalls lining the streets.

The following morning, I was presented with an opportunity to burn off all the delicious food I had indulged in. Hashish, our guide, led us to a bay where we encountered small fishing boats and met Patrick Haberland from Yemaya, who had a few kayaks ready for us. Our destination was Ile d’Ambre, a secluded sanctuary located on a small islet in the northern part of Mauritius. This untouched paradise was truly a hidden gem.

As we paddled through the dense mangrove forests that enveloped the islet, Patrick shared a fascinating fact with us. This little piece of land is believed to be the exact spot where the last dodo bird was killed. This revelation left us all feeling a sense of sadness and reminded us of the importance of preserving the natural world. Shockingly, only 5% of Mauritius’s native plant species remain today, making it even more vital to protect the few remaining natural habitats.

If you look at mangroves, you can see how Mauritius used to be. But if you look at sugarcane, you can see how people have changed the land. Sugarcane grows on 85% of the island’s arable land. But even though most of the land is covered in cane fields, there are still wild areas that exist on the edges of the fields.

You can find a lot of this wildness in the south of the island. The coastline there is affected by the lack of coral reefs that surround the rest of Mauritius. That means big waves crash into the cliffs that stick out into the sea. It makes for amazing drives and hikes along the coast. Sometimes, you feel like you’re on the edge of the world. The wind and spray from the sea make you feel like you can feel the Earth turning.

Hey there! Let me tell you about some amazing hidden spots in the south. There’s this awesome café called Bel Ombre Café, run by Mala Goburdhun for almost 30 years. Guess where it’s located? In an old green bus by the road! Isn’t that cool? What’s even cooler is that Mala kept the original bus seats, so you can sit on them while enjoying her mouthwatering homemade curries. Mauritians just can’t get enough of them!

We’ve Got Faith in the Gods

As we continued our journey along the winding roads of Black River Gorge Reserve, we drove through villages where mosques and Hindu temples stood together. I asked Hashish about the unique blend of religions in Mauritius, and he shared an interesting story with me. He said, ‘I follow Hinduism, but my wife is Muslim, and our two children practice Catholicism.’ This diverse mix of beliefs is an integral part of Mauritian culture.

However, the coexistence of different religions in Mauritius goes beyond mere toleration and acceptance. Hashish explained that religious syncretism thrives in the country as well. In some communities, people joyously join in the celebrations of their neighbors’ religious festivals, and there are even instances where they worship alongside each other.

Our drive eventually brought us to our next destination, Ganga Talao, a breathtaking lake believed to be the most sacred Hindu site outside of India.

About 450 000 people from India came to Mauritius as indentured laborers between 1824 and 1930, and many of them chose to stay even after their contracts ended. Nowadays, most of the Mauritian population is of Indian descent.

The Indian heritage can be seen throughout the island, with Hindu temples scattered all over. Among them, the lake holds a special significance as it is believed to have a direct connection to the sacred Ganges river.

Every year, around 600 000 pilgrims from all over the island embark on a journey to the lake, also known as Grand Bassin, during a festival called Maha Shivaratri. Dressed in white, the pilgrims collect water from the holy lake and pour it at the feet of the towering Shiva statue that watches over the lake. This Shiva statue is an impressive 33 meters tall, as is the nearby statue of the goddess Durga.

When the pandemic hit, the public Holi celebrations were canceled. However, that didn’t stop me from getting my own colorful surprise at the lake. I saw it as a fortunate encounter and made a personal agreement with Shiva. I asked for his assistance in resisting any temptations that may be waiting for me at the hotel.

Discover C Mauritius

In Palmar on the east coast, this resort is all about making you feel fully immersed in the experience. It’s perfect for those who love having fun in the sun and staying active. There’s so much to do here that you’ll never get bored. Imagine swinging on swings hanging from palm trees and going on exciting adventures, like exploring Le Pouce Mountain. And when the sun sets, get ready for DJ sessions on the beach and tours of the lagoon on a pirogue.

This resort has recently been given a fresh makeover, so everything feels new and exciting. And when it’s time to eat, you have plenty of options. In addition to four different restaurants, there’s also a deli right next to the beach. Plus, there are three pools, a spa, and all the equipment you need for stand-up paddleboarding, snorkeling, kayaking, and kitesurfing.

The best part? You can have all of this starting at just €350 per room per night. So why wait? Book your stay at Lux* Grand Gaube now and get ready for an unforgettable adventure.

“Lux” isn’t just a fancy way of saying “luxury.” It’s actually a Latin word that means “light.” And the Lux* resort chain takes that meaning to heart. At Lux* Grand Gaube, you’ll find an abundance of bright, light-filled spaces that embrace a fresh, contemporary style. It’s no wonder millennials are drawn to this place. Maybe all that light is perfect for Instagram! This resort offers the curated experience that millennials crave, with its beautiful suites and villas adorned in soft, pale colors. They’re arranged in crescents, offering breathtaking views of the water and Coin de Mire island.

But there’s so much more to Lux* Grand Gaube than its picture-perfect surroundings. This place is packed with endless activities for those who love to keep busy. You can indulge in delicious food or embark on thrilling adventures. Whatever you fancy, this resort has it all.

So, if you’re looking for a place that combines luxury, style, and a vibrant atmosphere, Lux* Grand Gaube is the perfect choice.

Prices start from €418 for two people per night.

For reservations, call +230 204 9191.

Ready for Lux* Grand Baie?

Welcome to this new and trendy place in northern Mauritius! It’s so tempting to just stay in the resort and not venture out, especially since they’ve done such an amazing job bringing the whole world, and the culture of Mauritius, to you. They really make you believe that this is how life should be. Besides being located on a stunning bay, there are so many luxurious amenities: five pools (including one on the roof), music playing everywhere all the time (they even have speakers in the trees and garden beds), bars, a beach club, and tons of curated activities to keep you entertained every second. And don’t worry about food preferences, Lux* has got you covered with their own gelato and a variety of plant-based dishes to choose from. It’s truly a paradise!

Prices start at just €559 for a junior suite, perfect for two people.

Contact them at +230 209 2200 or visit their website luxresorts.com

Salt of Palmar

Let me tell you about Salt of Palmar, a hotel that stands out from the rest. It’s progressive, unorthodox, and full of unique experiences that capture the essence of tropical paradise. With 59 rooms, this hotel opened its doors in 2018, boasting a mesmerizing blend of vibrant colors and elegant minimalism perfectly suited for the hot and humid climate. This captivating design was brought to life through a collaboration between French artist Camille Walala, famous for her striking murals, and Mauritian architect Jean-François Adam. Together, they transformed an existing riad-style building on the edge of Palmar’s pristine white sand beach into a masterpiece of innovation.

At Salt of Palmar, they believe in fostering a sense of community. In the restaurant, bakery, and beach bar, you’ll find inviting communal tables where you can connect with fellow travelers. The hotel is proud to be the first on the island to have a rooftop bar, offering stunning views and a unique atmosphere. Every aspect of the hotel is a testament to local craftsmanship, with talented artisans creating handwoven basket beach bags and exquisite rattan chairs that add a touch of authenticity and charm.

One of the standout features of Salt is their commitment to sustainable practices. They have their own farm that supplies the kitchen, ensuring fresh and organic ingredients are used in every dish. Additionally, they source local produce to support the community and maintain a circular system that eliminates food waste. You won’t find any wasteful buffets or fixed TV screens here. Salt of Palmar is dedicated to reducing single-use plastics, demonstrating their dedication to protecting the environment.

When you choose to stay at Salt of Palmar, you’re not just booking a hotel room. You’re immersing yourself in an extraordinary experience that combines art, sustainability, and a warm sense of hospitality. Come and discover the magic of Salt for yourself!

Hey, guess what? I found an amazing deal for you! You can stay in a lovely garden-view room at Otentic for just €123 per night. Sounds awesome, right?

What’s Otentic?

If you want something completely different, then forget about fancy resorts and consider staying in one of these eco-tents at the island’s first-ever glamping destination. It’s a small and sustainable backpacker-style resort where you can enjoy activities like kitesurfing, canoeing, and reef snorkeling. The best part? No keys, no key cards, no locks, and no doors. Instead, you’ll find zippers and Velcro strips to keep things secure. Inside your spacious and sturdy safari-style tent, which is elevated on stilts, you’ll find beds made from recycled palettes. There’s no plastic or unnecessary luxuries like a minibar, phone, TV, or air conditioning. The laid-back space is decorated with rustic furniture made from recycled crates, and the bathroom is made from old beams and planks, complete with peeling paint for added charm. Each tent can comfortably accommodate two adults and up to three children, or four adults.

The cost is €120 per tent per night, and if you stay for more than one night, the price is even lower.

Go for a Hike, Run, or Picnic Adventure

When you take a closer look at the seemingly endless fields of rolling sugarcane, you’ll discover something remarkable hiding in plain sight. Grotesque peaks, rugged cliffs, and ancient ridges dominate the landscape, their shapes reminiscent of a time long past. In their midst, lush forests and cascading waterfalls fill the deep valleys, waiting to be explored. Here are some of the most exciting spots you can venture into…

Discover the Black River Gorges National Park

Spanning across 7,000 hectares, this is the only national park on the island. Its vast expanse offers a multitude of trails, ensuring you can spend several days without retracing your steps. Although, if you want to explore the more hidden paths, it would be wise to hire a guide. The park’s dense vegetation is also home to the endangered pink pigeons, ancient doves with a rose-colored plumage that were once reduced to a mere nine individuals in 1990.

Embark on an Adventure at Tamarind Falls

Are you looking for a thrilling adventure? well, I’ve got just the thing for you! Join me on a three-hour hike through a lush tropical forest. We’ll navigate our way to a magnificent series of waterfalls located on the Rivière Tamarin, close to Mare aux Vacoas, a huge lake on the island’s central plateau. These amazing waterfalls are also called the ‘7 cascades’ and they are truly a sight to behold.

Imagine standing at the edge of a deep canyon, surrounded by untouched natural beauty. The waterfalls here range from 10 to 55 meters in height and each one is more breathtaking than the last. The drops are steep and the pools are deep, making this place a paradise for nature lovers.

If you’re feeling adventurous, you can even take a dip in the natural rock pools beneath the cascading waters. It’s an invigorating experience like no other!

Le Morne Mountain

Back in the 18th century, something fascinating happened on this mountain located on the southwestern peninsula. It became a safe haven for enslaved people who had managed to escape their captors. Not much is known about their experiences up there, but there are signs that they lived off the land by raising goats, growing fruits and vegetables, and gathering rainwater. Their resilience allowed them to survive against all odds.

When slavery was finally abolished in 1835, English police officers were sent as messengers to inform the maroons, as they came to be known, that they were free individuals and no longer had to hide. Tragically, misunderstanding the intentions of these officers, the maroons believed they were being pursued once again. Rather than risk being captured and returned to the sugar plantations, they made the heart-wrenching decision to leap from the mountain’s summit to their deaths.

Le Morne, also called the Slave Route, offers a challenging hike that takes you up the mountain. Along the way, you’ll encounter steep sections and heights that may make you feel a bit nervous. However, the view from the top is absolutely breathtaking. It’s important to note that the highest summit, which served as a refuge for the maroons, is off-limits to hikers.

Le Pouce

Let me tell you about “The Thumb” – a mountain in Mauritius that gets its name from its distinctive thumb-like shape. It’s part of the Moka range, situated between the towering Pieter Both peak and Signs Mountain. Now, Pieter Both is a real challenge to conquer, but “The Thumb” is a more manageable option. In fact, it’s the third highest mountain on the island, standing at 812 meters. Legend has it that Charles Darwin himself climbed this mountain back in 1836!

If you’re up for a little adventure, you can embark on a 90-minute trek starting from Port Louis. The hike begins amidst lush cane fields, painting a picturesque backdrop for your journey. As you ascend, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the city, its bustling harbor, and the enchanting offshore islands dotting the azure waters. The vistas that stretch across the northern part of Mauritius are simply awe-inspiring.

Once you reach the summit, you’ll find that it’s a cozy little space – just enough room to stretch out and enjoy a delightful picnic. So make sure to pack some tasty treats to savor against this stunning natural backdrop. Trust me, it’s a moment you won’t want to miss.

Now, let’s dive into Mauritian culture!

‘You know, I can’t help but think we were hit with a curse of beauty,’ says Shakti Callikan, this amazing historian and co-founder of my Moris, a company that does cool walking tours and bike tours and all sorts of interactive fun in Port Louis. ‘See, Mauritius is just stunning, like seriously gorgeous, and maybe we’ve become kinda complacent. We’ve been so caught up in the beauty that we forgot to show off our culture. It breaks our heart that everything is about the sea and the beach and nature, but nothing is about our unique culture. I mean, Mauritius is a tiny island, yet we have such a diverse population living here!’

‘When people from different backgrounds came here, they had to adjust to the new environment and to each other. We have so many languages spoken here, but the close proximity of diverse cultures also gave rise to a unique Creole culture. These cultures, living side by side in this small area, have adapted, intertwined, and changed over time. And they continue to change. We are always discovering new things.

For example, there is a little-known Hindu festival that hardly anyone talks about. It is a festival for Hindu women. They fast for 24 hours to protect their children, and then they go to the river to perform Hindu rituals and pray with their friends and family. After that, they visit the Catholic church, where they take a moment to pray, but in the Hindu way.’