Exploring Paradise: A Local’s Guide to South Malé Atoll

Who would’ve thought that paradise could be found without breaking the bank? While the plush resort islands of the Maldives may drain your wallet, there’s another side to this tropical heaven known as the “local islands” that offer an affordable taste of bliss. Join me, Romi Boom, as I uncover the hidden gem of South Malé Atoll.

The majestic green turtle, gracefully gliding through the crystal-clear waters, captivated my attention. It was a sight to behold. Fueled by my determined snorkeling guide from Bangladesh, I dived deeper, eager to explore. With an urgent wave of his hand, he signaled me to swim faster. Gasping for air, I pushed my limits. And there it was, an awe-inspiring sight amidst this vibrant coral reef known as Coral Garden.

Amongst a breathtaking array of marine life, including emperor angelfish, harlequin sweetlip, and nemo fish, I laid eyes on a truly magnificent creature. This incredible experience was just a taste of what South Malé Atoll had to offer.

As I swam through the crystal-clear water of Biyadhoo resort island’s house reef, I couldn’t help but admire the vibrant marine life surrounding me. I was on a day trip, snorkeling from a speedboat, and I had to be mindful not to disturb the resort’s exclusive guests.

Even in the shallows near the shoreline, the reef was teaming with an abundance of tropical fish. The turtle, noticing my presence, didn’t seem too worried and allowed me to get a closer look. To my surprise, three thin sucker fish clung to its massive abdomen, looking as slim as pencils.

After enjoying the turtle’s company for several minutes, it disappeared as if it were never there. Just another tourist on this full-day excursion from Maafushi.

I decided to visit the Maldives on a tight budget because I wanted to truly immerse myself in the local experience without emptying my pockets. Instead of staying at a fancy resort that caters to wealthier tourists, I chose to explore the local islands. To make my trip more affordable, I decided to go to the South Malé Atoll, where there are regular speedboat transfers available between the airport and the islands. Seaplane transfers were too expensive for me. Unfortunately, the government ferry service, which used to be a popular and affordable option for locals, has been suspended due to the pandemic.

As soon as I got off the speedboat that brought me from Malé’s airport to Maafushi, I knew I had made the right choice. Maafushi is one of the largest and most popular local islands in the Maldives. Located just 27km away from the capital, it stretches 1.27km long and spans 265 meters in width. With a population of 2,700 people, it has become the go-to destination for budget tourism in the Maldives, offering a wide range of hotels and guest houses.

When we arrived at our hotel, Sunrise Beach, they had already arranged for a tuk-tuk to pick up our luggage at the quayside. We took a leisurely 10-minute walk to the other side of the island, passing by various restaurants, excursion operators, watersports kiosks, dive centers, souvenir and clothing shops, as well as small grocery stores. The sun was setting, and the atmosphere was buzzing with excitement. Scooters, motorbikes, and tuk-tuks zoomed past us. The energy in the air was electrifying!

In the days that followed, I spent my time floating in the shallow waters of Maafushi’s Bikini Beach. The name speaks for itself – it’s the only place on the island where you can wear your swimsuit without a care. Although the beach is small, there are plenty of shady spots to relax in. The coral here may be sparse, but the water is pleasantly warm and soothing.

Our hotel room had a balcony facing east, giving us a perfect view of the beach where the locals swim, fully clothed, of course. It was an interesting sight to observe their beach culture.

We decided to explore the island on foot, taking a leisurely walk around it. It didn’t take us long, and we completed the whole circuit in about an hour. The best part was that we never felt unsafe, even when we ventured into the narrow lanes and dark alleys at night.

Under sharia law, you can’t bring alcohol into the Maldives or drink it on the local islands. It’s only allowed on resort islands. However, Maafushi has an interesting alternative. There’s a floating bar called the “safari boat” off the coast where tourists can go for a drink. We tried to find out when it was open and how to get there, but the information was vague. We waited at the dock for a while, hoping the free speedboat to the bar would show up, but it never did. So, we decided to make the best of it and enjoy some Heineken 0% instead.

When I visited Guraidhoo and Gulhi, I felt like I traveled back in time. These local islands have a simple charm that is hard to find in today’s bustling world. While there are a few hotels and guest houses, the focus here is not on luxury or extravagant amenities. Instead, you’ll find humble beachside stalls selling cotton clothing and handicrafts, and maybe even a jetski or kayak for rent. But don’t expect to see any cars or buses here; these islands are all about embracing simplicity.

As I explored these islands, I couldn’t help but be reminded of the Swahili coast in Africa. The mosques here are unimposing, and the women are veiled in dark abayas, giving the islands an air of mystery. It felt like I was walking through the historic towns of Ilha da Mozambique or Stone Town in Zanzibar. The vibrant colors of the flamboyant trees added a touch of beauty to the streets, and the scent of frangipanis filled the air.

But what struck me the most was the overwhelming sense of tranquility and solitude. There was a peacefulness that enveloped these islands, making it the perfect escape from the chaos of everyday life.

Stay Here

Sunrise Beach Hotel

Hey there! I’ve got something exciting to share with you about this incredible place called Maafushi. Now, this place has a pretty cool three-star hotel that I think you’ll love. It may not be the fanciest, but let me tell you, it’s got some amazing features.

First things first, this hotel is a modern block with big rooms that have balconies and stunning ocean views. Can you imagine waking up to the sound of waves crashing and sipping your morning coffee while watching the sun rise over the water? It’s a pretty incredible experience, trust me!

Now, here’s the best part – the staff at this hotel really go above and beyond to make sure you have an unforgettable stay. They offer bicycles so you can explore the island and discover all its hidden gems. Plus, they provide a bunch of awesome services, like helping you arrange airport transfers and even organizing snorkeling and other fun activities in the ocean. How cool is that?

And guess what? The price for a double room is just R1,326 per night, and that includes breakfast! Talk about a great deal.

But wait, there’s more! Check this out:

In case you’re on a shoestring holiday and looking for something affordable, here’s a little tip for you. September is a fantastic time to fly to the Maldives. How about snagging a return ticket between Joburg and Malé for just R7,629 with Qatar? Sounds amazing, right?

Of course, airline fees tend to change a lot, so it’s always good to keep an eye on things. One website that can help you find the most affordable flights is skyscanner.com. They search all the best flight combinations so you can save some serious cash.

So, here’s the thing: the Maldives, beautiful as it may be, can get pretty rainy from August to October. I’m talking heavy downpours that can go on for days, which can put a damper on your plans, even if the water is still warm. If you’re really after that sunshine and clear skies, it’s best to hold off until November when the clouds start to clear up. Towards the end of the wet season, there might still be some rain, but it tends to be a brief shower.

But hey, once you do make it there, you can hop on a scheduled speedboat transfer from the Velana International Airport in Malé to Maafushi for just $25 per person, one way.

If you’re up for some adventure, you can go on a full-day trip to local islands. They offer reef snorkeling, a dolphin safari, and even lunch on a sandbank, all for $40 per person. And if you want to keep it shorter, you can go for a half-day trip for $30.

When you’re traveling to the Maldives, it’s important to have enough cash on hand to cover your excursions and transfers. You can also charge these expenses to your credit card if you prefer. The local currency in the Maldives is the rufiyaa (MVR), which is roughly equal in value to the South African rand. However, it’s a good idea to have some local money for purchasing food and supplies from the small supermarkets in the area.

This article was originally published in the July 2022 print issue of Getaway

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