I Stepped Foot on the Road and the Road Pushed Me Back: My Journey on the Tankwa Camino

Walking Through the Untamed Wilderness

I had always been drawn to nature, to its magnificence and unpredictability. So when I heard about the Tankwa Camino, a trail that winds its way through the South African wilderness, I knew I had to experience it for myself. The Tankwa Camino is a path less traveled, a rugged trail that challenges both the body and the mind. It’s a journey that offers solitude and a chance to really connect with the natural world.

As I set foot on the trail, I couldn’t help but feel a mix of excitement and nervousness. What would I encounter along the way? How would my body hold up? These questions swirled in my mind as I took my first step forward.

The Tankwa Camino is known for its harsh conditions. The relentless sun beats down on you, the desert wind howls in your ears, and the rocky terrain tests your every step. The trail demands your full attention and respect. And as I walked, I could feel the weight of the wild all around me. Each step brought me closer to understanding the true power and beauty of nature.

There were moments when the trail seemed never-ending. My body ached, and doubt crept into my mind. But there were also moments of pure bliss, when I found myself in awe of the vastness of the landscape. The colors of the desert danced before my eyes, and the stillness of the wilderness enveloped me in tranquility.

I learned to appreciate the small victories along the way. Every mile covered was a triumph, every obstacle overcome was a testament to my resilience. The Tankwa Camino taught me the importance of perseverance and the beauty that lies in pushing oneself beyond their limits.

Walking the Tankwa Camino was not just a physical challenge, but also a spiritual journey. It allowed me to disconnect from the noise of the modern world and reconnect with my inner self. In the quietude of the wilderness, I found solace and gained a deeper understanding of who I am.

As I neared the end of the trail, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of accomplishment. The Tankwa Camino had pushed me to my limits, but it had also gifted me with unforgettable memories and an unshakeable sense of empowerment.

If you’re seeking an adventure that will test your mettle and leave you in awe of the natural world, then I cannot recommend the Tankwa Camino enough. Get ready to step foot on the road and let the road push back. The wilderness awaits – will you answer its call?

Have you ever dreamed of hiking the Spanish Camino de Santiago? Well, guess what? You can experience a similar adventure right here at home with the challenging Tankwa Camino in the Karoo. But let me tell you, it’s not for the faint of heart.

Hey there! I’ve done my fair share of challenging adventures, like hiking the Fish River Canyon and conquering the Otter Trail. I’ve even completed the grueling Comrades Marathon and the Ironman Triathlon. But now, I’m taking on the ultimate test – the Tankwa Camino.

What exactly is the Tankwa Camino?

• You may have heard of the famous pilgrimage route in Spain called the Camino de Santiago. Well, the Tankwa Camino is like that, but on steroids! It’s an epic trek through the rugged Karoo region that makes the Spanish route look like a walk in the park.
• The Tankwa Camino was created by Danie and Rhina Pieterse, and it’s been going strong for four years now. I had the chance to participate in 2015, and let me tell you, it was no walk in the park.
• The first year had 45 brave souls taking on the challenge, followed by around 70 participants the next year. In 2015, a group of 50 of us tackled this beast in the month of April.
• This unforgettable journey covers a distance of 256.6km and takes a grueling 10 days to complete. Trust me, it’s no easy feat, but it’s totally worth it.
• On my journey, I took a total of 430,144 steps. That’s a whole lot of walking!
• Throughout the trip, I made sure to keep myself hydrated by drinking a whopping 27 liters of water. It’s essential to stay hydrated when you’re on the move.
• As I trekked through the beautiful landscapes, I came across a total of 24 windmills. They were quite a sight to behold!
• While exploring the wilderness, I was fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of four springboks. Nature never ceases to amaze me.
• Unfortunately, all of this walking and adventuring took a toll on my feet. By the end of the journey, I had acquired two pesky blisters. They were a painful reminder of the incredible journey I had undertaken.

Here I am, looking more cheerful than I really am. The journey ahead seemed tough, and as I hit the road, the road hit me right back.

The Tankwa Camino: A Revelation

Life had always thrown challenges at me, like school, getting a degree, and landing a good job. But nothing prepared me for the heartbreak I was about to face during the Tankwa Camino.

On the third day of the journey, after covering around 60 kilometers, my foot was in agony. A blister had formed between my big toe and the rest of my foot. The scorching heat made it unbearable, and my backpack felt impossibly heavy. Every step felt like a new record, and I had already taken 138,756 consecutive steps – a number I never thought I would achieve in my lifetime. I stopped, untied my running shoes, took them off, laid out my yoga mat, and closed my eyes. In that moment, I couldn’t help but wonder, “What on earth am I doing? Is this my personal hell? And there are still seven more days to go.”

The vast expanse of the Tankwa Karoo stretches out endlessly before me.

This place is tough. With its tough succulent plants, quick-moving tok-tokkie beetles, and scruffy sheep, it’s a place where survival skills are key. As I pass by the lonely-looking farms cared for by weathered farmers, it becomes clear that out here, only the strong survive. But there’s something exhilarating about pushing your body to its limits, and there’s no better place to do that than in the Karoo.

I’m Rhina, a proud Karoo resident, and along with my husband Danie and our family, we host an amazing experience for adventurous hikers like you. We’ve created a challenging 250-kilometer trail from Calvinia to Ceres, with stopping points every 25 kilometers. These stops are like little stages where we provide everything you need to rest and refuel.

Picture this: three to four massive potjie pots, bubbling with mouthwatering food, surrounded by a sturdy army-brown shelter that houses the most delicious Afrikaans treats. You won’t be able to resist our pumpkin fritters, sprinkled with just the right amount of cinnamon. Trust me, they’re worth every step you take.

As you approach our refuelling station, you’ll see a colorful array of tents amidst the dusty landscapes. The sun sets, and the sky turns dark, revealing a spectacle of white sparks that flicker and dance. It’s truly a magical sight.

Join us on this incredible journey and experience the beauty and hospitality of the Karoo firsthand. Pack your bags, lace up your boots, and get ready for an adventure of a lifetime. We can’t wait to welcome you!

When I first set my eyes on the vast expanse of the Karoo, dotted with windmills, I knew I had stumbled upon something truly remarkable – the Tankwa Camino. This trail, now in its fourth year, has quickly earned a reputation as the ultimate trek for adventure enthusiasts like me.

As I join the multitude of eager participants, I can’t help but notice the sense of achievement that permeates the air. Many of us have conquered impressive challenges in the past – the grueling Fish River Canyon, the treacherous Otter Trail, the legendary Comrades Marathon, and even the demanding Ironman Triathlon. Yet, we all agree that the Tankwa Camino presents a distinct kind of test – the toughest one yet.

Here I am, on day four, deep in thought.

People who have experienced the famous Camino de Santiago trail say that the Tankwa version is even more challenging. In Spain, you can take a break and rest at the nearest hostel whenever you feel tired. But here, you have to keep going for 25 kilometers until you reach the campsite, with rougher terrain and scorching heat. And at the end of it all, you only have a five-liter bucket of water to wash yourself.

Imagine walking for days on end, with only the signs along the way to mark your progress. Each sign indicating another five kilometers completed, a milestone on your journey.

That’s exactly what I did when I decided to take on the Tankwa Camino. Now, let me be clear, I wasn’t exactly an experienced hiker. My hiking resume consisted of a 12-kilometer trail near Joburg and a few shorter climbs in the Drakensberg. But with just a three-week notice before the trip, I was determined to finish it, blisters and all. After all, there was a 13-year-old boy striding ahead of me and a 78-year-old man named Oom Allie who never missed a step, even if it took him longer sometimes. I had no excuse.

People take on the Tankwa Camino for all sorts of reasons: to face death or embrace life, to conquer doubt or celebrate retirement, to find courage or mark an anniversary, or simply to enjoy the leisurely stroll. But no matter the reason, when the day is done, laughter fills the air around the campfire, outweighing any hardships or complaints.

Picture this: setting up camp for the night, either on a farm or by the side of a dusty road, surrounded by nothing but the open sky and a vast desert. Walking through the desert provides me with plenty of time to reflect. A whole lot of time, in fact. And during day three of my journey, when the going got tough, I found myself feeling a bit down. As I trudged along, memories of happier times swirled in my mind, and I couldn’t help but wonder if I was truly happy with my life.

But then, something struck me out there in the rugged Karoo: I was asking myself the wrong question. The real question, the one that matters, is not “Am I happy?” but rather “Could I be happier?” This is a lesson that the Tankwa Desert has taught me, and it’s one that I will carry with me always.

So, let me ask you something: could you be happier? It’s a simple question, but the answer has the power to change your life. If the answer is yes, then make a change. Take care of yourself, prioritize your happiness, and never settle for less than what you deserve.

After a much-needed rest, eating pumpkin pancakes, soaking my feet, and lying down, I found myself gazing at a breathtaking sunset from a dusty plateau surrounded by majestic mountains. Having already walked 74 kilometers, I couldn’t contain my happiness or the sense of accomplishment. By the time I reached 100 kilometers, my body had settled into a rhythm. I had changed into my trusty hiking shoes, and nothing could stand in my way.

Unfortunately, not everyone shared my good fortune. While I dealt with minor blisters that felt like tiny seeds, I witnessed massive bloating on some people’s feet. Afternoons were dedicated to discussing and treating blisters. It seemed like there was broken glass scattered all over the ground, as everyone limped from the coffee station to the makeshift toilets (a trio of plastic chairs with holes and a dustbin underneath) and eventually to their tents. It was disheartening to see someone forced to ride in the truck to the next camp due to unbearable blisters.

LEFT Blister inspection time. RIGHT Morne Vry cooks over a fire for more than 50 hungry walkers.

If you think about it, walking in the never-ending and harsh Karoo is a powerful reminder of how our souls can get spread thin in the chaos of everyday life. In the midst of constant WhatsApp messages, honking horns, power outages, and competitions for success, we often forget the value of having two functioning legs and being truly aware and present.

On this dusty road, hearts break and hearts swell. Through collective suffering, we find a sense of community, test our mental fortitude, and experience both introspection and connection as we deal with blisters. When was the last time you did something that genuinely filled your heart?

When you find yourself in wide-open spaces, you have the perfect opportunity to clear your mind and let your thoughts wander.

Your Tankwa Camino begins in Calvinia

To get to Calvinia, simply take the N7 from Cape Town and head towards Vanrhynsdorp. From there, go east over Van Rhyns Pass until you reach Calvinia. It’s a journey of about 422 kilometers, which will take you approximately five hours by car. As you make the drive, keep in mind that you’ll be covering about half of that distance on foot during your Camino.

What to bring along

For the Tankwa Camino, you’ll need a decent amount of gear and supplies. Make sure you pack the following items, as they will prove to be quite handy:

1. A Leisure Quip 5-litre collapsible bucket – This nifty item is perfect for washing up and soaking your feet in epsom salts. You can find it for R110 at makro.co.za.
2. A rugged Stanley flask with a 500ml capacity – This flask will come in handy for carrying your favorite tea or coffee, giving you a warm and uplifting beverage whenever you need it. You can purchase it for R580 at campandclimb.co.za.
3. The Front Runner Expander Chair was an incredible find. Not only was it tough and sturdy, but it was also surprisingly comfortable. The best part? It could magically transform into a compact size that could easily fit into any bag. And the price? A steal at just R895. You can find it at frontrunner.co.za.
4. Looking for the perfect outfit for your adventure? Look no further than our selection of lightweight, UV-protective, and moisture-wicking technical apparel. These clothes are made for layering and will keep you cool and dry in the scorching heat, even during long days of walking. Don’t let the rain or chilly nights ruin your trip, these clothes have got you covered. Find them now and get ready to conquer any terrain.

Where to stay

Embarking on a 10-day trek means you’ll be away for 12 days in total. But don’t worry, we’ve got you covered for both the first and last nights. In Calvinia, you can stay at one of the beautiful historic homes, exuding the charm of Victorian heritage. Operated by the incredible Hantam Huis, these homes are a safe and cozy haven. Feel free to leave your vehicle here and enjoy a delicious full breakfast before you start your adventure. Prices start at just R395 per person, including bed and breakfast. Visit calvinia.co.za to book your stay now!

Welcome to Hantam Huis! I’m excited to share some details about our eat and drink options during your stay.

Where to eat:

When it comes to dinner, you’re in luck! We provide dinner every night (except the last) starting from the night of your registration. It’s a great way to kickstart your stay with us. Just a heads up: the dinner on the first evening is included in your registration fee.

For some delicious local cuisine, make sure to visit the Calvinia Hotel. They offer scrumptious meals like lamb pie and bobotie, both priced at R85 each. You can find more information about them on their website: calviniahotel.co.za.

Now, let me tell you about a must-visit spot. The quirky turquoise Tankwa Padstal is a real gem and a highlight of our walk. They serve amazing roosterkoek burgers and ice-cold beer. Just make sure to bring some cash as they don’t accept cards. Also, keep an eye out for local farmers who often stop by with their own supply of icy-cold beers. It’s a great way to experience the local flavor!

What you need to know:

The Tankwa Camino is a special hiking trail that has been given Green-Flag status. It’s known as a slack-packing trail, which means you don’t have to carry all your stuff with you. In 2016, there are four walks planned, each limited to about 50 people. When you go on the Tankwa Camino, you only need to carry a daypack with your food, water, and other important things. The rest of your food and camping gear is packed in a black box that gets transported by truck to the next camp every morning.

Setting up your own tent is your responsibility, but you don’t have to worry about cooking. Rhina and her team make delicious boerekos every evening using enormous black potjie pots. When I went on the walk, most of the people spoke Afrikaans, but there were also a few English speakers like me. I could understand everything that was said, and I even got to practice my language skills.

Now let’s talk about the costs of going on the Tankwa Camino.

The next available slots for the Tankwa Camino will be in 2017, and it costs R5500 per person to join. This fee covers various expenses such as infrastructure costs, hot and cold water, dinner, fresh fruit along the walk, and afternoon treats served with tea and coffee. Additionally, it includes the return transfer from Ceres to Calvinia. If you want more information, you can visit the website tankwacamino.com.

I read about this in the September 2015 issue of Getaway magazine, so you may want to check that out too!

Just a little note, the prices mentioned here may change. It’s always a good idea to double-check with the establishment or supplier before making any travel plans.