How to Find a Lion in the Pilanesberg
Lately, I’ve really wanted to go on a trip to the bush. I had some time off, so I decided to visit the Pilanesberg, which is South Africa’s fourth-largest national park and a place that means a lot to me. My goal was simple – to recover from a bad flu, enjoy delicious food, read a book, soak up the sun, and see a lion. The Pilanesberg is famous for being home to the Big Five, and it’s quite common to spot lions there. So, I felt pretty confident that I had a good chance of seeing one (check out these stunning lion hunt photos).
We stayed at Kwa Maritane – its name means “Place of the Rock”. It’s a beautiful resort located at the base of a rocky outcrop and offers a variety of fantastic accommodations. We had a cozy cottage that could sleep eight people, and it had a patio shaded by several friendly trees. From there, we had a stunning view of the plains and hills. Throughout the day, we saw many different animals come by. There were large herds of impala nervously gathering around the waterhole, along with hungry warthogs, a group of zebras, and the magnificent elephants of the savannah. I found a super comfortable lounger and spent hours reading and watching busy woodpeckers pecking away above me. I have to say, someone should really come up with woodpecker aspirin – all that pecking must give them terrible headaches! (Learn why woodpeckers don’t need aspirin here) Every now and then, a violet woodhoepoe would pay a visit too, stealing the show with its long tail feathers and unique beak.
Our journey started with high hopes. The last time I visited Pilanesberg, we had an incredible experience tracking a pair of lions as they gracefully walked along the road, displaying their courtship behavior. My parents had also been lucky enough to witness a leopard dragging its prey up a tree right next to our car. These amazing sightings gave us a sense of confidence; we believed we had an edge and knew exactly where to find the big cats.
Equipped with binoculars, a map, and some snacks, we eagerly entered the car, ready for an adventure. Along the way, we encountered a massive herd of elephants joyfully rolling in the dust, with a precious baby elephant staying close to its mother’s side. We observed a family of rhinos trotting through the tall grass, tails held high as they moved gracefully. In the midst of it all, we startled a beautiful kudu hidden in the bushes and even witnessed the impressive sight of a bright green chameleon doing push-ups on an Acacia tree branch.
However, as we marveled at these incredible moments, we couldn’t help but notice the absence of any big cats. Despite not encountering them, we remained undeterred and optimistic. After all, we had ample time and new possibilities lay ahead. Determined to uncover more extraordinary sightings, we decided to explore a different section of the park the next day.
The next day, I headed north, captivated by the breathtaking landscape that stretched out before me. I kept my eyes peeled, hoping to catch a glimpse of those elusive cat-shaped shadows lurking in the tall grass. What makes the Pilanesberg truly special is its location in the transition zone between the Kalahari and the Lowveld. This creates a unique blend of terrains, where dry grasslands intermingle with lush pockets of vegetation, and crimson rock faces give way to gently sloping hills.
As I ventured further into the park, I was met with a magnificent sight – a majestic stretch of giraffes elegantly poking their heads above the Acacia trees. It’s fascinating how the animal kingdom has designated such interesting collective nouns for different groups of animals. But my excitement didn’t end there. Suddenly, my eyes fell upon a caracal, its pointed ears barely visible amidst the tall grass. It was a fleeting moment, but one that filled me with awe.
Continuing on my journey, I was lucky enough to stumble upon a quartet of rhinos, basking in the warm sun. Their sheer presence reminded me of nature’s power and grace. Nearby, a pod of hippos was braving the scorching sun in their quest for a tasty meal. It was amusing to see these hefty creatures putting their delicate skin at risk, all in the name of satisfying their hunger.
As I walked along the banks of Mankwe Dam, my eyes were drawn to a statuesque heron, standing tall and proud. Its elegant form seemed perfectly in sync with the tranquil surroundings. And then, out of nowhere, a timid terrapin popped up to say hello, its shy nature only adding to the charm of the moment.
But alas, my search for those enigmatic feline creatures proved fruitless. There was not a single sign of a whisker or a tail. Disappointed yet undeterred, I couldn’t help but marvel at the incredible diversity and beauty I had witnessed in the Pilanesberg. Nature truly has an unparalleled ability to surprise and inspire us, even when things don’t go according to plan.
I woke up bright and early on day three of our adventure and decided to head out for a game drive before breakfast. Everyone says that the early morning is the best time to spot cats, but unfortunately, we didn’t have much luck. It seemed like all the animals were still fast asleep, and who could blame them? I mean, I wouldn’t want to be up that early either.
When we returned to the hotel, feeling a bit disappointed, we could hear a lot of commotion coming from the restaurant. Curiosity got the better of us, so we rushed over to see what was going on. And there, in the pond right by the restaurant, was a happy and playful elephant. It was as if he wanted to join us for breakfast! A crowd of amazed tourists had gathered around, taking pictures of the incredible sight.
But this elephant didn’t seem to care about all the attention. With a mischievous grin on his face (yes, elephants can have a sense of humor), he used his long trunk to suck up water from the pond and spray it all over himself. It was like he was having his own little spa day! He stayed there for a good half an hour, making sure everyone got a good look at him before he disappeared into the nearby bushes.
I overheard a man next to me say that seeing this elephant up close was one of the most amazing experiences of his life. And you know what? It made me feel proud. Proud to be in Africa, where incredible and unexpected things like this happen. It’s what makes this place so special and unique. Sure, we didn’t see any cats, but who needs cats when you have a bold and playful elephant putting on a show?
On the fourth day of our journey, something strange started happening. We began seeing cats everywhere. Rocks shaped like cats, anthills resembling cats, even impala that seemed to take the form of cats. It was a peculiar situation, to say the least. At one point, I noticed an entire springbok hanging from a high branch of a tree, but there was no sign of a leopard around. We decided to return later in the evening, believing that the elusive cat would make an appearance. As the afternoon wore on, our impatience grew and we made our way back to the tree. To our surprise, the entire carcass had vanished. It was as if it had never been there. With the disappearance of the carcass, our hopes of witnessing the sleek hunter in action were dashed. Disheartened, we started heading home when we stumbled upon a herd of elephants gathering around a waterhole. Among them, there was a small calf who was determined to join in the fun. However, its older siblings kept pushing it aside. Unfazed by the rejection, the little calf playfully entertained itself with a stick, continuously slipping down the hill and looking quite offended. It was such a comical and delightful sight, a perfect way to wrap up the day.
On the last day of our safari adventure, my companions and I were filled with anticipation. We had heard the lions calling out during their nightly hunts, and the sound was so close that we were certain we would catch a glimpse of these majestic creatures. With excitement fueling our spirits, we set out through the Kwa Maritane gate, hoping to witness the king of the jungle in action.
But alas, luck was not on our side. Despite our best efforts, the lions remained elusive, hiding themselves from our eager eyes. However, our disappointment was quickly replaced with wonder and contentment as we encountered other incredible wildlife along the way. Elephants, rhinos, giraffes, and a multitude of other animals crossed our path, allowing us to marvel at their beauty and grace. As we basked in the warmth of the African sun, we fully immersed ourselves in the splendor of the park.
The Pilanesberg National Park is a place where time seems to stand still. Here, nature reigns supreme, and the tranquility envelops you, freeing your mind from the worries of the world. In this haven of serenity, I found solace and restoration. With each passing day, I delved into the pages of three captivating books, allowing their words to transport me to unknown lands.
Although the lions remained elusive, their absence did not dampen our spirits. We departed with a renewed sense of awe and determination. I have no doubt that on my next visit, the mighty lions will reveal themselves to me, and I will witness their majestic presence in all its glory. Until then, the memories of this enchanting journey will remain etched in my heart, fueling my desire to return to the untamed beauty of Pilanesberg National Park.
