Hluhluwe-iMfolozi: A Tale of Contrasts

When I think about the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve, I’m struck by the fascinating duality that exists there. It’s like a coin with two distinct sides, each with its own unique allure and significance.

The Hluhluwe side of the fence is a land brimming with history. It’s a place where stories from the past echo through the ages, reminding us of the struggles and triumphs of those who came before us. As I wander through the ancient hills and valleys, I can feel the weight of the past on my shoulders. I imagine the battles fought and the lives lost in this very place.

But it’s not all about the past. Hluhluwe is also a place of rejuvenation and hope. The land has a magical ability to regenerate life and restore balance. Amidst the rolling grasslands and dense forests, I witness the renewal of nature’s cycles. It’s a reminder that even in the face of adversity, there is always the possibility of new beginnings.

On the flip side of the fence lies iMfolozi – a realm of untamed wilderness and raw beauty. Here, the air is thick with excitement and possibility. As I embark on a safari adventure, I feel a thrill course through my veins. The anticipation of encountering magnificent wildlife in their natural habitat is both exhilarating and humbling.

iMfolozi is a place where the rules of the concrete jungle don’t apply. Here, predators reign supreme, and the circle of life unfolds before my eyes. It’s a constant reminder of the delicate balance that exists in nature and the interconnectedness of all living beings. As I witness a lion’s hunt or a herd of elephants making its way through the plains, I can’t help but marvel at the wonders of the animal kingdom.

So, whether you’re a history buff or a nature enthusiast, Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Game Reserve has something for everyone. It’s a place where the past and present coexist, where stories are told and nature is revered. When you visit, you’ll be transported to a world of contrasts, where history and wildlife collide in a magnificent display of life’s rich tapestry.

Imagine this: me, walking silently through the African bush, my heart pounding with excitement as I track a rhino on foot. This is not your typical safari experience. It’s an adventure that takes you off the beaten path, giving you a unique perspective on conservation.

But let me back up for a moment. Hi, I’m Scott Ramsay, and I’m here to tell you about an incredible opportunity to get up close and personal with one of Africa’s most iconic animals. I’m talking about tracking rhinos in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, a game reserve in South Africa.

This isn’t your usual game drive where you sit comfortably in a vehicle, snapping photos from a safe distance. Oh no, my friend. This is a whole different experience. It’s just you, the African wilderness, and the rhinos, sharing the same space.

Now, let me give you a little context. Rhinos are incredible creatures. Majestic, powerful, and unfortunately, endangered. They’re facing serious threats from poaching and habitat loss. That’s why it’s so important to protect them.

By joining this rhino tracking expedition, you’re not only getting a chance to see these magnificent animals in their natural habitat, but you’re also supporting their conservation efforts. It’s a win-win situation.

So how does it work? Well, it starts with a knowledgeable guide who will take you on a thrilling walk through the bush. You’ll learn about rhino behavior, their tracks, and signs of their presence. It’s like becoming a detective in the wild.

And here’s the real kicker: you’ll spend the night in a Zulu home just outside the park. This gives you an entirely different perspective on conservation. You’ll get to see how local communities are working together to protect these precious creatures.

Picture it: sitting around a fire, listening to fascinating stories about the land and its wildlife from the Zulu people. It’s an intimate experience that will leave you with a deep appreciation for the interconnectedness of all living things.

So, if you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime adventure that combines wildlife tracking, cultural immersion, and conservation, this is it. Don’t miss out on the opportunity to be part of something bigger than yourself. Join me on this journey and discover a whole new world.

Waking up to the sound of a black-crowned tchagra, a type of bird, and the warm morning sun streaming into my rondavel, a traditional Zulu house, in the Mpembeni village just outside Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park was a delightful experience.

Listening to the cheerful voices of boys and the barking of dogs, I looked outside and saw them running along the fence that separates the village from the park. Even though I couldn’t understand their Zulu language, their joyous tones revealed their excitement for their hunting expedition.

Following a long-standing tradition of Zulu boys, they were on the hunt for an animal that had managed to find its way under the park’s fence – perhaps a bushbuck or a steenbok – to provide protein for their evening barbeque.

Hey there! I can’t wait to tell you about my incredible experience in Zululand, South Africa. It happened in December when the rainy season was just beginning. The hills were so lush and green, it felt like stepping into a magical world.

I had the pleasure of meeting Zamani Nkosi, a 26-year-old woman who lives with her lovely family in a charming homestead on a hill overlooking Hluhluwe. Her mother Nokuthula, stepfather Bheki, sister Talent, grandmother Josephina, and her own children Siyanbonga, Silindokuhle, Luyanda, and Luthando all call this place home. The sense of community and togetherness was heartwarming.

While sipping coffee under a beautiful red-ivory tree near their homestead, Zamani greeted me with a warm smile and said, “Sawubona, Scott.” In Zulu, that means “hello.” It was such a delightful and authentic welcome.

I couldn’t help but be in awe of the stunning view right in front of us. The valleys and hills stretched out below like an artist’s canvas. You could see why this place would capture the imagination of both artists and property developers. It was simply breathtaking.

When I think about walks, I realize that they’re not just about the big things we often associate with them. Sure, the grand landscapes and stunning views are incredible, but there’s so much more to a walk than that.

Take Mpembeni, for example. This place holds a special significance for me. It’s not just because of the breathtaking hills and the cool breeze that flows through them, even on the hottest summer days. It’s not just because there are fewer mosquitos and flies here, away from the humid coastal areas. No, it’s much more than that.

Mpembeni is where the roots of the Nguni people run deep. Centuries ago, various clans from this community settled in these rolling hills. They found solace in the upper gradients of Zululand, where rain and mist were plentiful, and streams flowed freely throughout the year. The land was fertile, perfect for grazing, with sweetveld that nourished their livestock.

But that’s not all. Mpembeni lies in the very heart of the traditional Zulu empire. It’s a place where the echoes of history can still be heard, where the descendants of Zulu kings like Shaka, Cetshwayo, Dingane, Mpande, and Dinizulu still live alongside hundreds of families. It’s a living testament to the rich heritage that has shaped this land.

As I sit on the stoep, chatting with Zamani Nkosi, my homestay hostess, I can’t help but notice the vibrant energy of the local kids. They bring life to this village, where you can find an array of cattle, chickens, pigs, and veggie gardens. Alongside these rural elements, you’ll also come across schools, clinics, shebeens, and small shops.

While the traditional rondavels still have a presence, most of the houses have embraced modernity, equipped with electric appliances. The TVs inside these homes entertain the residents with soccer matches and popular soap operas like Muvhango and Uzalo.

Just beyond the village fence, about 100 meters away, lies the once separate Hluhluwe Game Reserve, which has now merged with iMfolozi to form one park. This vast expanse is teeming with incredible wildlife, including lions, leopards, elephants, Cape buffalos, hippos, and rhinos. Here, game rangers and anti-poaching teams work diligently to protect this ancient game reserve—the epitome of a tiny island of wilderness in an ever-expanding world.

When it comes to exploring the wilderness trails of Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, I follow in the footsteps of the legendary Zulu trackers and rangers. It’s an incredible experience that attracts visitors from all over the world – from Durban, Joburg, and Cape Town, to even New York, Paris, and Tokyo.

As we drive along the roads, we can’t help but lean out of our car windows, cameras in hand, eager to capture a glimpse of the Big Five. The thrill and excitement of seeing these magnificent creatures up close is unparalleled. And when the day is done, we retreat to our cozy chalets at camps like Hilltop and Mpila, indulging in the luxury of the bush, even if just for a night.

For my stay in Hluhluwe-iMfolozi, I made sure to choose Rhino Ridge Lodge. It’s the only private lodge in the park and offers a truly unique experience – the chance to track rhino on foot alongside one of South Africa’s most skilled wilderness guides.

Nunu Jobe, my guide, is no ordinary person. He was born and raised near Mkhuze Game Reserve, just north of Hluhluwe. His connection to the land runs deep. He first laid eyes on a rhino when he was just 10 years old, while tending to his family’s cattle. As a young boy, he and his friends would hunt antelope using dogs and snares, just like the Zulu boys at Mpembeni.

Roll up, dung beetles! It’s time for some romance. Just picture it: a moonlit evening, a gentle breeze, and the sweet scent of fresh dung in the air. Ah, love is in the waste… I mean, the air.

When I was in school, I joined this awesome environmental club. It was the perfect place for a nature enthusiast like me. And you know what? That passion stuck with me even after graduation. I ended up landing a job at Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife. Talk about a dream come true!

I was lucky to have some incredible mentors there. They were experts in their field, and some of them had even been trained by the legendary Magqubu Ntombela. He was a close friend and partner of Ian Player, a true pioneer in rhino conservation. Those were some big shoes to fill, but I was up for the challenge.

For seven years, I had the privilege of guiding guests through the iMfolozi Wilderness area. It was an incredible experience that allowed me to truly understand animal behavior. Every trail, every step brought me closer to nature.

Nowadays, I’m the lead walking guide at Rhino Ridge. I get to accompany guests on morning and afternoon walks, sharing my knowledge and love for this amazing place. And you know what’s really cool? I’ve gotten to know each and every rhino in this part of the park. It’s like having a huge, horned family.

My grandmother, Josephina, makes reed mats to sell. It’s a skill she’s passed down through the generations, and her mats are highly sought after. I’ve always admired her dedication to her craft and the beautiful creations she makes.

Recently, I had the opportunity to go on a morning walk with some friends from Joburg who are in prestigious financial positions. It was an exciting outing for them as they grew up during a time when visiting parks in apartheid South Africa was forbidden for black families. This was their first experience walking in a reserve with wild animals.

As we embarked on our walk, our guide, Nunu, assured us that we had nothing to worry about as long as we showed respect and followed his instructions. He emphasized the importance of treating the animals with respect, and how it was vital to our safety.

Our path took us along the forested banks of the Hluhluwe River, following the tracks of a white rhino. It was fascinating to see the evidence of this magnificent creature that had recently passed through the area. Eventually, the tracks led us to a clearing on a hill, where we spotted the white rhino, affectionately known as the nkombe, peacefully grazing on the grass.

Nunu shared that he had a close relationship with this particular rhino. He had spent a lot of time observing and learning about its behavior. It was evident that he had a deep respect and understanding for these animals.

As we silently watched the rhino, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe and appreciation for the natural world around us. This experience was a reminder of the importance of respecting and coexisting with the wildlife that shares our planet.

Walking with Nunu and my friends, who were experiencing this for the first time, was a powerful reminder of how far we have come since the days of apartheid. It was a chance to reflect on the progress we have made, while also recognizing that there is still work to be done to ensure equality and respect for all.

Zululand used to be home to a wide variety of large animals, but now they can only be found in protected areas like Hluhluwe-iMfolozi. Just imagine – I was out there, and this guy said, ‘We trust each other.’ He had spent so much time with the rhino that it knew his voice and scent.

When we first set off, my fellow guests were terrified. But within minutes, their fear turned into curiosity. They whipped out their cell phones and started snapping pictures. I even saw some selfies being sent off to their loved ones in Joburg.

As we made our way back to the lodge, we couldn’t stop talking about the rhino. It was amazing how close we had gotten to this supposedly dangerous wild animal. But once we treated it with respect, it turned out to be quite friendly.

This encounter with the rhino made all of us think about our crazy lives back in the city. We’re always caught up in our offices, emails, cell phones, and social media. In those moments with the rhino, we realized how much we’ve been missing out on nature and the simplicity of life.

My name is Nunu, and I have a question for you: have you ever wondered why white people are so drawn to parks? It’s something that has puzzled me for a while now. You see, it seems like they have already ventured too far into the realm of civilization, only to realize the damage they have caused. It’s almost as if they are seeking solace in nature, a way to reconnect with the world they have disrupted.

Take America, for example. There, they nearly wiped out the bison population. It’s a heartbreaking tale, a reminder of the consequences of not being mindful of our impact on the environment. Even here, in our own country, they came close to driving the rhinos to extinction.

As I ponder this intriguing phenomenon, I can’t help but question the importance of preserving our natural world. It’s not just about these majestic creatures; it’s about the delicate balance we must maintain between progress and nature. We must find a way to thrive without causing irreparable harm.

So, my friend, I implore you to join me in appreciating the beauty of our surroundings. Let us cherish parks not only for their recreational value but also for the lessons they teach us about our planet and our responsibilities as its caretakers. By doing so, we can forge a path towards a brighter future for both ourselves and the environment.

When it comes to Rhino Ridge Lodge, I have to say it checks off all the things I look for in a fantastic safari stay. This place was built just a few years ago, in 2014, and it’s managed and co-owned by Isibindi Africa. But what makes it even more special is that it’s partly owned by a local community trust. Once they pay off a government loan, which should happen in about five years, this trust will own 49 percent of the lodge and receive a share of the profits. And you know what’s great? All that money will be used for really important projects, like building schools and clinics. Plus, right now, Rhino Ridge Lodge provides jobs for 55 people from Mpembeni. That’s pretty amazing, don’t you think?

Imagine this: you and I are young, broke, and struggling to find work. It’s a tough spot to be in, and sometimes we have to get creative to make ends meet.

At least, that’s what Brett Gehren, the CEO of Isibindi, believes. He understands that the act of poaching is a double-edged sword, and he’s not quick to condemn the young hunters who prowl the fence.

“Let’s be honest,” he says, “if you and I were in their shoes, we might do the same. This lodge can’t employ everyone, but it can make a small difference.”

“But jobs and money are just one part of the puzzle,” he said. “In our own little way, we want to foster stronger connections between guests and locals, and between conservation and the communities around us.” For a small fraction of the cost of staying at the lodge, you can stay overnight at Zamani’s family home in Mpembeni and experience the daily life here. Located high up on the ridge, you’ll have an incredible view of the park and Rhino Ridge. “Our view is even better than the lodge’s,” Zamani joked. “And sometimes, we even spot rhinos on this side of the fence.”

As I sat at Zamani’s homestead that evening, I witnessed a sight that was both familiar and unsettling. Nokuthula, Zamani’s mother, skillfully slaughtered one of their chickens for our dinner. While it’s common to consume chicken, I had never before witnessed the process of its preparation.

As Nokuthula carefully plucked the feathers from the chicken, Zamani, Nunu, and I enjoyed the breathtaking view of Rhino Ridge and Hluhluwe under the setting sun.

Soon, Zamani’s stepfather Bheki joined us by the fire, as the sky grew darker. He leisurely enjoyed a quart of Carling Black Label. Curious about his life in this place and the significance of Hluhluwe for him, I seized the opportunity to ask him questions. Zamani kindly acted as our interpreter.

“My mom and dad moved to Mpembeni in 1965 when I was just a young child,” I explained excitedly. “Back then, our home was nestled right on that hill where Rhino Ridge towers above. It was our land, and the wild animals roamed freely. We had flourishing gardens, and we used to shoo away the cheeky black rhinos when they tried to munch on our vegetables. Our cows grazed alongside the wildlife, and we even went hunting for our own meat.”

“We coexisted with those animals. We had a connection with them,” I continued, my voice tinged with nostalgia. “But everything changed in the 1970s when the fence was erected. Suddenly, we were forbidden from venturing into our own backyard.”

I took a thoughtful sip of my drink, my gaze fixed on the mesmerizing valley that stretched into the untouched park.

“It’s been over forty years since I last stepped foot in there,” I confessed, determination glinting in my eyes. “I yearn to explore those depths once again. To reunite with the fierce lions and playful rhinos. And most importantly, to witness the beauty of Rhino Ridge, a place that truly belongs to us.”

Plan Your Adventure

Getting to Rhino Ridge

To reach Rhino Ridge at Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, start your journey by driving north from Durban on the N2 for approximately 220km. When you reach Mtubatuba, make a left turn onto the R618 and continue along this road for about 30km until you reach Nyalazi Gate. Once at the gate, simply follow the signs that will lead you straight to Rhino Ridge (S28° 09.219’ E31° 57.346’).

Timing is Everything

You have the freedom to visit Rhino Ridge at any time of the year. However, if you prefer cooler temperatures and less rainfall, then autumn and winter are the ideal seasons for you to enjoy leisurely walks through the park.

Your Perfect Retreat

Avoid the rhino walks, but enjoy a wide range of experiences at Rhino Ridge. With 16 rooms available, it caters to families as well as couples. Your stay, which includes meals, drinks, and various activities, starts at only R2,780 per person.

Experience the Zulu Culture with a unique homestay in Mpembeni Village hosted by the warm and welcoming Nkosi family. Step into their world and spend a night in a traditional rondavel, where you’ll truly immerse yourself in Zulu traditions and hospitality. But it doesn’t stop there – you’ll also get the chance to participate in daily activities and chores, gaining hands-on experience of Zulu life. Plus, you’ll be treated to a delicious traditional dinner and breakfast, complete with Zulu beer and refreshing cold drinks.

During your stay, you’ll have access to hot water for a refreshing bucket shower, and a convenient chemical toilet for your comfort. To ensure your safety and peace of mind, you’ll always be accompanied by an English-speaking guide.

Pricing for this unforgettable experience is R990 per person. To book your Zulu homestay, contact Isibindi Africa at 035-474-1473 or visit their website at rhinoridge.co.za.

Rhino Ridge Lodge is a special place. It’s not just a lodge, it’s a community effort. You see, the lodge is partly owned by the local community, and it’s built on their land. But this land is no ordinary land, it’s now part of the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park, making the park even bigger and better. It’s an incredible partnership that benefits everyone involved.

So, what can you do at Rhino Ridge Lodge? Well, one of the highlights is going on a rhino walk with guide Nunu Jobe. It’s a fantastic experience that lets you explore the area at a leisurely pace. Most of the time, it’s a relaxing adventure. But be prepared because you might encounter a black rhino charging at you! It’s an adrenaline-pumping moment that you won’t forget. The cost for a group of two to eight people is R640, and children under 14 are not allowed. If you want to learn more and book your rhino walk, visit rhinoridge.co.za.

The Rhino Story

Let me tell you a fascinating story about the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi Park. Did you know that it used to be King Shaka’s private hunting grounds? Way back in the early 1800s, there were strict rules about hunting. Surprisingly, rhinos were off-limits. It was forbidden to hunt them. And imagine this, there were probably thousands of rhinos roaming around Zululand back then. It’s amazing to think about how much has changed over the years.

Then something strange happened in Southern Africa. Wealthy Europeans arrived, not to build houses or start businesses, but to hunt wild animals. I’m talking about men like George Gordon-Cumming, Cornwallis Harris, and Frederick Selous. They came armed with guns and filled with a thirst for bloodthirsty adventure. Their goal? To kill as many animals as possible, just for the sport of it. They didn’t care about the consequences. Rhinos, among other creatures, fell victim to their insatiable appetite for destruction.

Imagine what happened next. After years of this relentless slaughter, the white rhinos were declared extinct. There was not a single one left. It seemed like we had lost them forever. But nature has a way of surprising us when we least expect it. In 1894, something incredible happened. Six white rhinos were found near the confluence of the White and Black Umfolozi rivers. The hunters couldn’t resist the temptation. They took aim and shot all six of them, without a care in the world.

The world erupted in outrage. People couldn’t believe that such a magnificent creature had been pushed to the brink of extinction by the cruelty of man. The public outcry was so strong that it forced the colonial government to take action. In 1897, they established the iMfolozi and Hluhluwe game reserves. It was a desperate attempt to protect the remaining wildlife. A century of dedicated conservation efforts followed.

Gradually, the white rhino population began to bounce back. Thanks to the tireless work of conservationists, their numbers multiplied. They were moved to different parts of Africa, given a chance to thrive and grow. Today, we have over 20,000 southern white rhinos roaming the African wild. That’s an incredible achievement, considering how close we came to losing them forever. But the battle is not over.

Once again, these magnificent creatures find themselves in danger. Poaching has returned, threatening to undo all the progress we’ve made. It’s a heartbreaking reality. The northern white rhino is on the verge of extinction, with only a few left in captivity. We cannot afford to let history repeat itself. We must do everything in our power to protect these gentle giants and ensure their survival for generations to come.