The Hidden Charms of Hamburg

Imagine a city where modern skyscrapers stand side by side with historic landmarks, where quaint canals wind their way through vibrant neighborhoods, and where a vibrant nightlife thrives. That city is Hamburg.

Hamburg is a place that captures the essence of both old-world charm and new-age creativity. It’s a city that surprises and delights, where you can never predict what awaits you around the next corner.

When you visit Hamburg, you’ll find a city that seems to have a personality of its own. The streets are filled with a unique energy, a sense of excitement that can’t be replicated anywhere else. It’s a place that inspires and invigorates.

One of the things that makes Hamburg so special is its rich history. From the iconic Speicherstadt, the largest warehouse district in the world, to the stunning architecture of the Elbphilharmonie concert hall, the city is steeped in stories of the past. As I walk down the cobblestone streets, I can’t help but feel a sense of awe at the centuries of history that surround me.

But Hamburg isn’t just a city of the past – it’s also a city for the future. The HafenCity district is a prime example of Hamburg’s innovative spirit. Built on reclaimed land, this modern neighborhood is a testament to the city’s ability to adapt and change. Here, you’ll find futuristic architecture, trendy restaurants, and a bustling waterfront promenade.

And let’s not forget about the food. Hamburg is a food lover’s paradise. From the traditional fish markets to the trendy street food stalls, there’s something to satisfy every craving. Whether you’re in the mood for a hearty plate of schnitzel or a fresh seafood feast, Hamburg has got you covered.

But perhaps what I love most about Hamburg is its sense of community. Despite being a city of over 1.8 million people, it somehow manages to feel like a cozy village. People are friendly and welcoming, always ready to share a smile or strike up a conversation. It’s this sense of warmth and belonging that keeps me coming back.

So if you’re looking for a city that’s full of surprises, where history and modernity blend seamlessly, and where you’ll be embraced by a sense of community, look no further than Hamburg. This little village may be crazy, but it’s a craziness that I wouldn’t trade for anything.

Ever wondered what connects Richard Gere, the Duke of Buccleuch, and a pig named Rooster? Well, the answer lies on a bumpy dirt road, 14 kilometers away from East London and Port Alfred in the Eastern Cape.

Let me tell you the story.

Imagine driving along the R72 towards East London and coming across a worn-out sign pointing you down a dusty road. Most people ignore it, but they don’t know what they’re missing. Trust me, that road is worth taking, because at the end of it, you’ll find a hidden gem called Hamburg. It’s a small and peaceful village nestled where the Keiskamma estuary meets the land.

The moment I set foot in Hamburg, it felt like stepping back in time to the villages I used to visit during my childhood vacations. There are no flashy billboards or fast-food joints here. Instead, you’ll find cows, goats, and chickens moseying along the roads, sometimes sharing the path with a few cars.

Hamburg has a rich history. It was established back in 1857 by former members of the British-German Legion who fought alongside the British in the Crimean War. It’s interesting to note that the Germans named this place, and one can’t help but wonder if they were missing their homeland. However, I can say without a doubt that this Hamburg is far more charming.

The village of Hamburg is surrounded by water on three sides – a river, an estuary, and the Indian Ocean. It’s like being embraced by the sea from all directions. How refreshing! Picture yourself there – breathing in the salty breeze, feeling the sand between your toes, and listening to the tranquil sound of crashing waves.

But Hamburg hasn’t always been this idyllic. Back in the early 20th century, it was just a typical holiday resort with a couple of hotels and a campsite, accompanied by a cozy pub on the estuary. Oh, how I wish I could have visited back then!

However, in 1972, everything changed. Hamburg became a part of Ciskei and fell into a state of disrepair. It was as if a dark cloud had settled over the once-thriving village. People lost the title deeds to their homes, and the hotels, once bustling with life, collapsed. The houses, once so full of charm, were left with nothing – no roofs, no windows, no doors. It was a heartbreaking sight.

Then, in the 1980s, something incredible happened. Sol Kerzner, a renowned hotel magnate, had a vision for Hamburg. He wanted to bring this forgotten village back to life by creating a casino development, just like he had done in Transkei and Bophuthatswana. Can you believe it? A casino right here in Hamburg!

But fate had other plans. In 1985, President PW Botha made an infamous speech called the Rubicon speech, and everything changed. Kerzner’s dream was shattered, and his plans for Hamburg were abandoned. It seemed like all hope was lost.

Little did I know that one day, I would be grateful to President Botha for this very reason. Because of that speech, Hamburg remained untouched, frozen in time. It still carries the charm of a bygone era, with its dilapidated buildings and echoes of a forgotten past. It’s a place where history meets nature, where you can feel the weight of time with every step you take.

So come, explore the enchantment of Hamburg. Walk along the deserted streets, listen to the whispers of the wind, and let the beauty of this forgotten gem capture your heart. You may never have imagined finding solace in President Botha’s actions, but sometimes, life has a way of surprising us. And Hamburg is one of those delightful surprises.

You wouldn’t believe it, but down by the Keiskamma River, where it meets the coast, there’s this huge floodplain. It’s like a paradise for birds! There are all sorts of amazing creatures that call it home, like Fred, the pelican. Fred’s been hanging out down there for over 15 years, and no one even knows if he’s a he or a she! You see, Fred is a bit of a loner. Sure, he makes friends with other birds every now and then, but they always end up leaving him. It must get pretty lonely for poor old Fred.

When you visit the estuary, you’re in for a real treat. It’s a place where the sea and river meet, creating the perfect conditions for fishing. In fact, this estuary is famous for its incredible fishing opportunities. People from all over the world come here to catch kob, and for years, the world-record catch was made right in these waters.

If you visit between February and May, you’re in luck. During this time, the estuary becomes a breeding ground for tiger prawns. These delicious creatures spawn here, giving you the chance to feast on some truly fresh and mouth-watering seafood.

And that’s not all. The estuary is also home to an abundance of river crabs. These tasty crustaceans can be found in large numbers, just waiting to be caught and enjoyed. If you venture out to the rocks, you’ll also be able to find wild oysters, mussels, and alikreukel. It’s like a hidden treasure trove of delectable seafood, just waiting to be discovered.

But it’s not just about the food. The estuary also offers plenty of opportunities for adventure. Grab a canoe and explore the various islands that dot the estuarine landscape. It’s a peaceful and scenic way to spend your day, surrounded by nature’s beauty.

So, if you’re looking for a place that offers both amazing fishing and incredible seafood, look no further than the estuary. It’s a true gem that will leave you with unforgettable memories.

In the town of Hamburg, life moves at a leisurely pace on the Keiskamma Estuary. It’s a peaceful place where simplicity reigns and the surroundings are idyllic. And there’s a hidden gem here that not many people know about – Hamburg’s Blue Flag beach.

I have to tell you, this beach is something special. It’s been voted one of South Africa’s most beautiful secluded seafronts, and the best part is that you usually have it all to yourself. So picture this: you take a walk along the shoreline, the gentle waves lapping at your feet, and all around you is the sound of serenity. It’s like stepping into a different world, away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

But that’s not all. As you stroll along the beach, you’ll come across a treasure trove of shells. They come in all shapes and sizes, each one a little piece of nature’s art. And sometimes, if you’re lucky, you might stumble upon something truly extraordinary – pieces of Qing Dynasty pottery.

Now, let me tell you the story behind these remarkable artifacts. You see, back in 1713, a ship called the Bennebroek sank just southwest of the Keiskamma mouth. It was a tragedy, and only 77 people managed to survive. Over the years, the ocean has been slowly revealing the ship’s secrets, bringing pieces of its cargo to shore.

And that’s how these pieces of history find their way to Hamburg’s beach. It’s like stumbling upon a time capsule, a glimpse into the past. Who knows what stories these pottery fragments hold? What hands have touched them? What adventures have they been a part of?

But there’s one more fascinating detail I have to share with you. For years, the anchor of the Bennebroek stood proudly outside the Hamburg Hotel. It was a symbol of resilience, a tribute to the survivors and a reminder of the power of the sea. But in 2013, the anchor mysteriously disappeared, leaving behind only questions and speculation.

So, my friend, if you’re ever in Hamburg, take a stroll along its Blue Flag beach. Let the serenity wash over you as you explore its sandy shores. Who knows what treasures you might find? And remember, every shell and every piece of pottery has a story to tell, a story waiting to be discovered by you.

Imagine this: you’re strolling along the beach at daybreak, the soft sand beneath your feet, the gentle sound of waves crashing in the distance. And then, out of nowhere, you come across a mesmerizing work of art etched into the sand. Intricate patterns and designs, unlike anything you’ve ever seen before. It’s a sand art masterpiece.

For years, I’ve been lucky enough to stumble upon these incredible creations, courtesy of an extraordinary artist named Vuyisile Gaba. He’s not your typical artist, though. You won’t find him in a fancy gallery or a bustling studio. No, Gaba prefers to create his remarkable sand art under the cover of darkness, in the dead of night when most of us are fast asleep.

Gaba is a talented musician as well, and he believes that his artistic talents are a gift from a higher power. In the stillness of the night, while the rain gently falls, Gaba feels a spiritual calling to dance patterns onto the sandy canvas. This divine inspiration transforms the beach into his own personal stage, where he weaves his artistry into the very fabric of nature.

Gaba’s sand art is a fleeting masterpiece, washed away by the tides as the day goes on. Its transience only adds to its allure, as if the universe itself is telling us to appreciate the beauty in impermanence. As I walk along the beach, I can’t help but wonder: will I ever stumble upon one of Gaba’s creations again? Will he continue to dance his artistic dance on the sand, or has the curtain closed on this chapter of his life?

It’s a mystery that hangs in the air, unanswered. But the allure of the unknown is part of what makes Gaba’s sand art so captivating. It’s a reminder that there is magic in the world, waiting to be discovered in the most unexpected places. So the next time you find yourself by the ocean’s edge, keep your eyes peeled. You never know when you might witness a masterpiece in the making, quietly taking shape under the cover of night.

Hey there! Have you ever heard of the ‘Keiskamma Guernica’? It’s an incredible work of art that was showcased at the Venice Biennale and the Smithsonian Institute in Washington. Pretty impressive, right?

Now, let me introduce you to someone. Her name is Susan Palisa, and she’s quite remarkable. Believe it or not, Susan is 96 years old and still going strong. Despite her employer’s constant efforts to persuade her to retire, she adamantly refuses. You can find her in her cozy little rondavel, where she lives. And guess what? She has some pretty interesting pets – a dog named Apologise, a cat named Actually, and even a pig named Rooster!

If you love coffee as much as I do, then you have something in common with Garvey McConnell. He’s a coffee enthusiast who roasts his own beans four times a week and knows everything there is to know about this delicious brew. Garvey and his wife Karen discovered Hamburg a decade ago, and right away they decided to leave their home in Fish Hoek and move here. At first, Garvey served his coffee from a rain-tank he converted into a coffee shop in his garden. But now, he’s proud to have multiple Hand Made Coffee locations in East London and Grahamstown.

Garvey is an unlikely entrepreneur, and he’s actually a bit frustrated with his success. “Can you believe it? They’re asking me to open a coffee shop in Cape Town now! I mean, seriously? I came here to relax and enjoy the beach,” he says with a hint of annoyance.

In the town of Hamburg, something extraordinary is happening. It’s a place known for something called the Keiskamma Trust, which is an organization dedicated to helping the community. They do all sorts of things, like providing medical help and education for young children. But one of the most remarkable things they do is run a Music Academy.

The Music Academy was started by Helen Vosloo, who is an amazing musician. She teaches 133 kids from disadvantaged backgrounds, giving them a chance to learn and play music. Some of these kids are so talented that they have performed in other countries like England and Germany!

But you know what’s really made the Trust famous – and even got some surprising fans? It’s their Art Project. This awesome initiative was started by Dr. Carol Hofmeyr, the Trust’s founder. She believed that dealing with the HIV/Aids situation wasn’t just about medicine and education. She understood that people also needed something that would make them feel proud, valued, and give them a way to earn a living. So, what did she do? She brought together 150 women who were unemployed. And guess what? These incredible women now create stunning fabric artworks that are sold to private collectors all over the world. Talk about talent!

Every two years, our project embarks on a significant endeavor. We create a powerful piece of art that not only looks back on historical events but also sheds light on current social and political matters. These works of art hold great relevance in our time.

One notable example is the ‘Keiskamma Tapestry’. It is a masterpiece that chronicles the history of the region, encompassing everything from the San people to the iconic Nelson Mandela. What makes this artwork truly remarkable is its staggering length of 122 meters, making it one of the largest pieces in the entire world. The tapestry was brought to life by the hard work of 110 artists, who dedicated six months to its creation. Today, it proudly hangs in Cape Town’s parliament buildings as a permanent fixture.

The ‘Keiskamma Altarpiece’ is an incredible achievement for the Art Project. It’s a truly unique work, covering an area larger than 100 square meters. This masterpiece has traveled all over the world, captivating audiences in Canada, the USA, England, and Germany. In fact, it’s gained so much recognition that even Hollywood actor Richard Gere had an encounter with it in Toronto.

During a showing of the ‘Altarpiece’ in Toronto, a Trust counsellor named Eunice Manganye found herself face to face with Richard Gere. But instead of being starstruck, Eunice fearlessly used her ample bosom to nudge him aside. She didn’t care that he was famous; all she cared about was ensuring that everyone could see the artwork properly. Her act of determination even made the front page of the Toronto Sun the next day.

Hey there! Let me tell you a story about Eunice and her impressive journey with the ‘Altarpiece’. It all started when Richard’s brother, Professor David Gere, was so amazed by Eunice’s straightforward approach that he invited her to bring the ‘Altarpiece’ to UCLA, where he’s in charge of the Department of World Arts and Cultures.

When Eunice arrived in Los Angeles, she quickly became a bit of a celebrity. People were drawn to her unique style, and David even described her as a “minor rock star”. She became involved in various activities, such as advising the LGBTQ+ community on fashion and rallying UCLA students to join a spontaneous choir. They even sang in isiXhosa during the grand unveiling of the artwork!

But when Eunice isn’t traveling, she and the ‘Altarpiece’ call Hamburg home. It’s quite a journey for this remarkable piece, and it’s amazing to see how it has touched so many hearts along the way. Eunice’s dedication and passion shine through in everything she does, and it’s truly inspiring.

Imagine this: in the quiet town of Hamburg, nestled on the banks of the serene Keiskamma Estuary, there exists an extraordinary project that captures the attention of both locals and surprising visitors. Even Richard Walter John Montagu Douglas Scott, the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensbury, and the proud owner of vast expanses of land in the United Kingdom, is drawn to this place.

What is this project, you may ask? Well, it is none other than the Art Project. But it’s not just any art project; it’s a project that weaves together the threads of creativity and culture, resulting in tapestries that are truly one-of-a-kind. These remarkable artworks are the harmonious union of stitches and the beautiful sounds of isiXhosa melodies.

Now, picture this: you find yourself standing in a Scottish castle, surrounded by some of the most magnificent artworks the world has ever known. Paintings by legendary masters like Da Vinci, Rembrandt, Holbein, and Gainsborough grace the walls, captivating everyone who beholds them. And right alongside these celebrated works of art, you will discover the mesmerizing tapestries that were commissioned by none other than the Duke of Buccleuch and Queensbury himself.

Can you believe it? The humble village of Hamburg has become the birthplace of these extraordinary artworks, finding a home among the illustrious masterpieces that have captured the hearts of art enthusiasts through the ages. It’s a testament to the power of creative collaboration and the ability to turn something ordinary into something truly exceptional.

So, the next time you find yourself in this little corner of the world, be sure to pay a visit to the Art Project. Allow yourself to be swept away by the beauty that can emerge from unexpected places. Embark on a journey of imagination and cultural fusion, where the tapestries whisper stories of the past and inspire hope for the future.

If you haven’t heard of Vuyisile Gaba’s dune art, you’re in for a treat. This incredible artist creates mesmerizing images in the sand, dancing his way across the dunes at night. It’s a sight to behold, trust me.

Now, let’s talk about Richard. This guy is anything but pretentious. He’s the definition of down-to-earth. Imagine this: he’s out there, playing Scottish jigs for the kids at the music academy. And you know what? He’s got these amazing stories about ‘Rabbie Burrrns’ that will leave you laughing and wanting more.

In this village, there aren’t many cars, so we rely heavily on donkey carts for transportation. These carts are used to carry all sorts of things, from little kids going to school, to firewood, to furniture, and even brides. It’s quite a sight! Let me tell you, this place is not what you would call “developed.” However, a few years ago, something exciting happened – this little village was chosen for an urban regeneration project. You’d think that would mean improvements for the people here, right?

The government actually asked us, the community, what we needed most. We were really excited! We told them we needed better roads, more houses, a new clinic, and most importantly, jobs. So what did we get? Well, brace yourself for this one – we got a fancy artist’s residence worth 50 million rands. Can you believe it? With apartments and dance studios and everything. And guess what? It sat empty for years. They also built a marine environmental center, which no one uses. Oh, and let’s not forget the new municipal office, which is also empty. Talk about wasting resources!

Thankfully, after a long wait, we did eventually get our new clinic. But seriously… what were they thinking? I guess it’s true what the Americans say – go figure! It’s frustrating when the government doesn’t listen to the people who actually live here. We had such high hopes for this regeneration project, but it’s turned out to be quite a disappointment.

Hey, guess what? If you ever happen to be cruising down the R72 between East London and Port Alfred, you might stumble upon a worn-out sign that points you towards an unpaved road. And you know what? Take a moment to check it out. Because let me tell you, it’s home to a quirky little village with one hell of a tale to tell.

Get ready for your adventure

How to Get ThereTo reach Hamburg, you have to travel along the scenic R72, which is located exactly midway between East London and Port Alfred. The authorities have assured us that the road will be paved this year!

Important InformationMake sure to fill up your gas tank before you set off because there are no gas stations along the way. It’s also crucial to carry enough cash with you as there are no ATMs available. Don’t forget to stock up on supplies at a supermarket before heading to Hamburg because the local trading store only carries essential items.

Welcome to Hamburg CBD! I’m here to help you find the perfect accommodations for your stay in this beautiful area. Let’s take a look at some great options:

Keiskamma Cottages: These charming self-catering cottages offer stunning views of the sea or river. With three double bedrooms, you’ll have plenty of space to relax and unwind. Prices start at R1,000 per night. Give them a call at 082-600-7341 to book your stay.

The Perch Cottages: Enjoy breathtaking views of the sea and estuary from these self-catering cottages. Choose between two or three bedrooms, depending on your needs. Prices start at R500 per cottage. Contact them at 082-463-6047 to reserve your spot.

Hamburg Caravan Park: If you prefer a camping experience, this caravan park is just what you need. Located on the banks of the Keiskamma Estuary, it offers 31 sites for you to set up camp. Prices start at R250 per site. Call them at 084-799-2724 for more information.

Hamburg Backpackers: For budget-friendly accommodations, check out Hamburg Backpackers. They have three private rooms available, including one double room and two three-bedded rooms. Each room has a private bathroom and there is a shared kitchen for your convenience. Prices start at R600 per room. Contact them at 072-874-4927 to make a reservation.

The Rondavels: These unique double units come with off-the-grid solar and gas power, as well as kitchenettes. If needed, an extra bed can be added upon request. Prices start at R300 per unit. For more information, call 082-776-3622.

Welcome to Do Rego’s singalong! I want to share with you some exciting activities and places to visit during your trip here. Make sure to check them out!

Do This!

When you’re in the area, you absolutely have to visit the Keiskamma Trust. It’s an incredible experience. To view the breathtaking ‘Keiskamma Altarpiece,’ you can contact Andy Hofmeyr at 082-600-7341 or Cebo Mvubu at 063-173-3133. The Trust also sells their unique fabric artworks in the shop, as well as online at keiskamma.org. You might even find them in outlets overseas!

Across from the Snow Goose bottle store, you’ll find the Music Academy. It’s a vibrant place where you can immerse yourself in music and witness incredible talent.

If you’re up for an adventure, guide Alan Booth is your go-to person. He’ll take you on an unforgettable canoeing trip, allowing you to explore the beautiful islands on the estuary. The best part? Canoes are included in the price, starting at just R250 per person. Give Alan a call at 082-783-1288 to book your trip!

If fishing is your thing, look no further! This area offers fantastic options for rock, surf, and estuary fishing. The locals at the pub are always willing to share their knowledge and give you advice on the best spots and bait to use.

Calling all bird lovers! Roy Dowling, our expert birding guide, will take you on a journey to discover numerous bird species in the forest, sea, and estuarine areas. You can reach Roy at 072-348-3154 to arrange an unforgettable bird-watching experience.

One of the best walks around is to Umtana River Mouth. It’s a 6km stroll along the beach to the right, and you can come back either along the beach or through the forest. If you have a 4×4, you can also take the forest route.

There’s a fun treasure hunt waiting for you if you head southwards along the beach. You’ll find a wide variety of shells and might even discover a fragment of Qing porcelain.

If you’re interested in dance, I highly recommend checking out Susan Palisa’s performances. You can also enjoy Vuyisile Gaba’s mesmerizing beach art. And if you’re curious about umlungu weddings Hamburg style, you can find videos of them on YouTube by searching for their names.

Have you ever visited Robert Radebe’s Taxi? It’s a fantastic place to grab a bite to eat. Unfortunately, there aren’t many options in town, so your best bet is Do Rego’s Cabin. This pub/restaurant is located on the estuary and offers a unique dining experience. And on Sundays, they even have a bring-and-braai event with some good old singalongs. Before you head over, it’s a good idea to call Barry and make sure they’re open. You can reach him at 084-799-2724.

If you’re looking for something different, I have a great suggestion for you. How about trying a traditional Xhosa meal? You can have it prepared and served to you in one of the charming homes in the village. To arrange this special experience, get in touch with author Andy Hofmeyr at 082-600-7341.

Before I wrap up, I want to let you know that this article was first published in the February 2020 issue of Getaway magazine. If you want to read more, make sure to grab a copy. And keep in mind that prices mentioned here may change, so it’s always a good idea to check with the establishment before making any plans.