Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

Winona Griggs

Embark on a thrilling dhow safari to explore the magnificent Bazaruto island

Hey there! Have you ever dreamt of sailing into the horizon, with the wind in your hair and the sun kissing your face? Well, I’ve got just the adventure for you! Join me as we set sail on a mesmerizing dhow safari to uncover the wonders of the breathtaking Bazaruto island.

Picture this: me, you, and a traditional dhow boat, gliding through turquoise waters, surrounded by pristine golden beaches and stunning marine life. It’s the perfect recipe for an unforgettable journey.

As we sail along, you’ll be amazed by the vibrant coral reefs teeming with colorful fish. Snorkel in these crystal-clear waters and get up close and personal with nature’s spectacular underwater world. You might even spot gentle sea turtles gracefully swimming by.

But the adventure doesn’t stop there. Bazaruto island is also home to a diverse range of bird species. Keep an eye out for majestic flamingos and pelicans as they gracefully soar through the skies. It’s a birdwatcher’s paradise!

If you’re a fan of sandy beaches, you’re in luck! Bazaruto boasts some of the most beautiful stretches of coastline you’ll ever come across. Feel the soft sand beneath your feet as you stroll along the shore, or simply relax and soak up the sun’s warm rays. Trust me, it’s pure bliss.

And let’s not forget about the rich cultural heritage of the island. Interact with the local community and immerse yourself in their traditions and customs. You’ll be welcomed with open arms, and their warm hospitality will leave a lasting impression.

Now, I know what you’re thinking – how do I get there? Well, fret not! There are numerous tour operators who offer dhow safaris to Bazaruto island. Just pick the one that suits you best, and they’ll take care of all the logistics.

So, are you ready to embark on this extraordinary journey? Pack your bags, put on your adventurous spirit, and get ready to explore the magical Bazaruto island on a dhow safari. It’s a voyage you’ll cherish forever!

Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

Hey there! Today, I want to tell you about Vilanculos – a place that’s become a paradise for kitesurfers. Picture this: colorful kites soaring through the beautiful clear waters of Mozambique, while the wind rustles the palm trees on the shore, creating a soothing sound.

But let’s go back in time before the kites took over. The coastal winds of Vilanculos have been serving a different purpose for over a thousand years. They have been guiding the graceful dhows that navigate the Indian Ocean, connecting people, islands, and economies.

Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

Every morning, my friends and I would make our way to the waiting dhow, bringing along our towels and cameras. We were filled with excitement and anticipation for the adventure that awaited us.

Off the coast of Vilanculos, there are five beautiful islands. However, most people can only stay on these islands if they can afford the luxurious and expensive high-end lodges.

Thankfully, there is an alternative way to experience the magic of these islands – the enchanting Bazaruto Archipelago is best explored in the traditional way, by riding on a dhow.

Sailaway offers an incredible overnight camping dhow safari that will take you to Benguerra Island. This island is not only home to freshwater lakes teeming with crocodiles, but it also boasts towering sand dunes encompassed by the most breathtaking shades of blue on Bazaruto Island itself.

Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

When I think about the evenings at Sailaway base camp, I can’t help but smile. It’s a magical experience, sitting around the crackling fire, surrounded by the beauty of nature. It feels like something out of a storybook, a place where you can escape from the world and immerse yourself in the tranquility of the island.

There’s just one thing you should know – you can’t pitch a tent on these islands. But don’t worry, the Sailaway base camp has got you covered. It’s like stepping into the shoes of Robinson Crusoe himself, with all the comforts and conveniences of a modern-day explorer.

Located just 10 kilometres north of Vilanculos town, the Chigamane campsite is a little slice of paradise. It’s nestled beneath towering trees, offering shade and a sense of seclusion. And the view… oh, the view is simply breathtaking. You’ll wake up to the sight of a serene blue lagoon, with the sun casting a golden glow on the water.

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Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

As I settle into my classic safari tent at Sailaway’s campsite, I am immediately struck by the tranquility that surrounds me. The tent is nestled under the comforting shade of msasa and cashew trees, creating a soothing and natural oasis. It’s the perfect setting for a peaceful retreat.

Our adventure begins as we step on board the dhow, and our amiable host, Dominique Cortes-Salat, greets us with a warm smile. In a playful reference to the hustle and bustle of air travel, he jokes, “We have coffee on board but no trolley to bring it to you.” It’s a lighthearted reminder that this journey is about slowing down and savoring the simple pleasures.

As I explore the boat, I discover a hidden gem at the back – a humble sandpit-surrounded fireplace. Here, our talented crew members, Alfredo Boane and Miguel Vilanculo, work their magic, boiling water and preparing a delicious lunch for all twelve of us. The aroma of the food fills the air, teasing our taste buds and making us even more eager for the adventures that lie ahead.

Leaving Vilanculos behind, we set sail towards the mysterious islands that await us. Each island holds its own secrets and wonders, waiting to be explored and discovered. The anticipation builds within me as I imagine the breathtaking beauty that awaits.

Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

When I made the journey from the mainland to the islands, I quickly realized that it takes quite a while to get there – at least an hour and a half if you’re sailing. It’s a fascinating experience, feeling the wind against your face as you venture into the open water.

I learned that the Bazaruto Archipelago, a collection of beautiful islands, is located about 30 kilometers away from the mainland. These islands were once part of a larger piece of land that gradually separated over thousands of years. The fact that crocodiles can be found on Benguerra Island is evidence of this interesting history.

The largest island in the Bazaruto Archipelago is called Bazaruto itself. It’s an impressive island, stretching for 37 kilometers in length and reaching up to seven kilometers in width. As I explored the island, I marveled at its vastness and the stunning landscapes it offered.

In late 2017, I discovered some exciting news. The National Administration of Conservation Areas (Anac) and a conservation NGO called African Parks had signed a 25-year agreement. Their goal was to restore, develop, and manage Mozambique’s Bazaruto Archipelago National Park. This park, established in 1971, spans an impressive 143,000 hectares and focuses on marine conservation.

Hey there, I have some exciting news to share with you! Did you know that three of these islands have people living on them all year round? It’s amazing! About 6000 folks depend on the rich marine resources of the area to sustain their lives.

But you know what? There’s a bit of a problem. Some people are fishing illegally in the area, and that’s not cool at all. So, we’re taking action! We’re teaming up with the community to fight against illegal fishing and protect the incredible variety of life in the park.

One of the animals we want to safeguard is the dugong. Have you ever heard of them? They’re fascinating creatures, and they really like munching on plants. Unfortunately, they’re also vulnerable, so it’s essential to provide them with extra protection.

By working together, we can make a big difference. Together, we can make sure that the marine resources of these islands are protected and preserved for future generations to enjoy. So let’s do this! Join us in our mission to keep these waters teeming with life.

Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

In the warm waters off Mozambique, dolphins and dugongs can be found. These incredible creatures are best spotted from a vibrant, old dhow, though dugongs are becoming rare nowadays. I hope that the slow pace of the dhow will give me more opportunities to catch a glimpse of these elusive animals.

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The greater Bazaruto region is home to the last viable population of dugongs in the Western Indian Ocean. However, the latest aerial survey revealed a concerning decline in their numbers. Only eight dugongs, including a baby, were spotted, along with 99 turtles, 21 sharks, 49 dolphins, 65 rays, and 309 fishing boats. As I embark on a three-day journey on the dhow, my chances of encountering them seem slim.

Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

Hey there! I’m so excited to share my adventure with you. Let me give you a peek into what my day was like.

As we sailed off to the islands, the boat itinerary was up to the mercy of the tides, wind, and other weather conditions. On our first day, we headed towards Magaruque, the closest island.

Now, here’s the thing – in order to have the best snorkeling experience and avoid being carried away on the “Magaruque Express,” we had to pick the perfect tide. While waiting, we decided to explore the island. We strolled along the coastline, admiring the beautiful dunes and vibrant plants. We kept our eyes peeled for seashells from pretty sea-urchins that the waves had brought to shore. It was like a treasure hunt by the sea! We even spotted a local fisherman trying his luck on the exposed reef during low tide.

Feeling the need to cool off, I decided to take a dip in the sea, joining the fish in their underwater world. After my refreshing swim, I returned to the shore to find a delicious feast waiting for me. The crew had prepared a mouthwatering meal of fresh seafood, juicy mango slices, crisp salad, bread, and warm potato salad – all right on the dhow! Just imagine the taste!

What an amazing start to my island adventure. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings!

Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

Join me on a tropical adventure as we set sail on a dhow, indulging in a delicious lunch. The image of this experience lingers in my mind – the warm sun, the turquoise waters, the laughter of fellow travelers. It’s truly a feast for the senses.

After our satisfying meal, I eagerly dive into the water, ready to explore the mesmerizing underwater world. Sadly, the visibility is not as clear as I had hoped. But fear not, the current embraces me gently, guiding me along as I observe a plethora of colorful reef fish. Despite the less-than-perfect conditions, I find joy in every moment spent in the water, relishing the warmth and the enchantment of this marine wonderland.

As I make my way back to the dhow, I can’t help but yearn for a comforting cup of coffee. I am greeted on board by the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and the delightful sound of popcorn popping. These small treats add a touch of coziness to our return trip to the campsite on the mainland.

Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

As I make some coffee after our snorkel, I see Alfredo Boane bustling about, preparing the hot drink. It’s day two of our adventure with Sailaway, a well-established operation helmed by a skilled crew. And let me tell you, it’s been nothing short of extraordinary.

The waters we traverse are a sight to behold. One moment, they shimmer like the Mediterranean sky, then they darken to a deep midnight blue. But just as quickly, they transform into a breathtaking, translucent gemstone hue as we approach Benguerra Island.

Upon landing, we discover that the beach is ours and ours alone. We have the liberty to snorkel at our leisure in a small, rocky bay. The water may be shallow, but it’s bursting with life.

As I immerse myself in the underwater world, I’m greeted by a friendly eel, gracefully swaying in the currents. There’s also a majestic lionfish, cautiously exploring its cozy cove. Everywhere I turn, I see vibrant schools of tiny chocolate dippers and an abundance of other colorful marine creatures suspended in the water. The marine magic is so captivating that leaving the water becomes a challenge.

But alas, the scorching midday sun finally forces me to retreat to the shore. Lunch awaits us on the dhow, thankfully sheltered beneath a comforting cloth canopy.

Go with the wind exploring Bazaruto on a dhow safari

As I spend most of my days relaxing on the benches of the dhow, traveling between the islands, I can’t help but appreciate the beauty of this journey. Each excursion from the mainland takes at least an hour and a half, but that’s what makes it so special.

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As I sit back and watch the waves, I keep an eye out for any signs of marine life. Perhaps I’ll catch a glimpse of a turtle popping its head out of the water, or if I’m really lucky, I might see the majestic tail of a dugong.

After a refreshing snorkeling session, I find myself snacking on popcorn as we make our way back to camp. Thoughts of tomorrow’s adventure to Bazaruto Island fill my mind – climbing up the dunes of Ponta Dundo, taking in the breathtaking views, and of course, more incredible snorkeling on the famous Two Mile Reef. But with the gentle rhythm of the waves against the boat and the wind guiding us, there’s no need to rush.

Start planning

Getting There

I want to tell you about how I got to Vilanculos for my safari adventure. Vilanculos is a town that serves as the starting and ending point for the safari. You can reach Vilanculos by road from Maputo on the EN1. It’s a 520km journey, which takes some time, but it’s worth it! Another option is to take a direct flight from Joburg to Vilanculos. The flights cost about R5800 for a return trip. You can find more information on flyairlink.com.

When Is the Best Time to Go?

Now, let me share with you when is the best time to visit Vilanculos for the safari. April to December is an excellent period to plan your trip. During these months, the weather is reliable, and the underwater visibility is great. Just one thing to keep in mind, try to avoid the Easter peak season. It can get pretty crowded around that time. On the other hand, January to March is the rainy season, and there is a higher chance of cyclones, although it’s been 11 years since one hit Vilanculos. So, it’s good to plan your trip accordingly.

Important Tips:
When you go hiking, it’s essential to be prepared. Bring along a UPF 50+ shirt or rash vest to protect yourself from the sun’s harmful rays. You’ll also want to have water shoes to navigate any rocky areas and a dry bag to keep your gadgets safe from water damage. A flashlight will come in handy at night, so make sure to pack one. Keep in mind that the dhow boat is open, so if it rains, you will get wet. Snorkel gear will be provided, but you can bring your own if you prefer. It’s important to note that the islands are in a malaria area, so take the necessary precautions to protect yourself. If you are prone to seasickness, remember to bring medication. Lastly, make sure to have local currency on hand as the daily park fees of 400 meticals or R84 need to be paid directly to the park officials and are not included in the tour rates.

The dhow safari

I chose to do the two-night, three-day safari, and I highly recommend it. It gave me enough time to explore three islands in the archipelago. If you prefer, there are also options for one or three nights. The Sailaway beach camp is quite basic, but it has hot showers and flushing toilets. The tents come equipped with camping mattresses, pillows, sleeping bags, and lights. If you want a bit more luxury, you can upgrade to a chalet for an extra R990 per person (for two nights, sleeps two).

The rates include the services of a guide and a backup crew, as well as all meals and beverages such as water, tea, coffee, and juice. However, please note that alcoholic drinks are not included. You can bring your own beers and ask for them to be kept cold. The cost of a two-night dhow safari starts from R4180 per person (for four or more).

If you’re interested, you can find more information at sailaway.co.za.

This exciting adventure is featured in the March 2018 issue of Getaway magazine.

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