Frozen dreams on the land of the rising sun

Kachou Fuugetsu is a captivating Japanese idea about self-discovery through nature – like finding yourself amidst the beauty of flowers, birds, winds, and the moon. And what better place to experience this than on the magnificent slopes of Japan’s iconic Mount Fuji?

For just three months a year, hikers have the opportunity to conquer the majestic peak of Mount Fuji. Rising 3,776 meters high, this dormant volcano was our ultimate goal, my wife Catherine and I were determined to reach its summit.

Although we had only a few hours in Tokyo before our bullet train journey to Mount Fuji, those precious moments unveiled the reality of a land unlike anything we had ever encountered before.

It was all so different… so strange. The way people lined up so neatly for the trains, and the Haagen Dazs ice cream that tasted like green tea. But the oddest sight of all was in a little café, right next to the vegetables. There, in a jar filled with brine, were these mysterious creatures swimming around. I couldn’t even imagine eating them with chopsticks.

We had read about climbing Fuji-San online, and we knew that the best way to do it was to hike up overnight. You had to reach the summit just before dawn, so you could see the sun break through the clouds, like a peek-a-boo game. And if you were lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of samurai warriors dancing on red-and-white rainbows.

So, here’s the thing. We didn’t really plan a whole lot for this adventure. Sure, we did some minimal prep by reading a few stories from people who had done it before. But hey, we’re in our twenties and full of energy, so we figured we could handle it. We decided to skip the first leg of the hike and catch a bus to Station 5, which would save us around 2,300 meters of uphill trekking. Not too bad, right? We thought we only had five more stations to go – numbered 6, 7, 8, 8.5, and 9 – and about 1,500 more meters to climb.

Would it be challenging? Most likely. But hey, the Japanese have this saying: “Fall seven times, rise eight times.” And that saying was practically made for us, Catherine and me.

We set off at 10 PM and entered a small forest. Thank goodness we had bought a little flashlight earlier because we found ourselves all alone in the darkness during the first hours of the hike.

Wow, things weren’t as easy as I thought they would be. You see, the ground on the trail was covered in these tiny volcanic stones that kept slipping and sliding beneath our feet. It was like trying to walk on ice, taking one step forward only to slide back a little. I know it’s a bit of a cliché, but it really felt like that “two steps forwards, one step back” situation.

To make matters even more challenging, there were chains and pegs in the ground that we had to use to help us climb. It felt like we were on some kind of rock-climbing adventure. And to add to the excitement, there were patches of snow scattered along the way, making the whole journey even more zigzaggy.

But that’s not all – it was starting to get colder as we climbed higher. Thankfully, we had the foresight to bring gloves. We patted ourselves on the back for our cleverness. However, we forgot to bring warm beanies to protect our heads. Oh well, we reassured ourselves, we’ll manage somehow.

As I trekked up the mountain for three or four hours, I started to notice other climbers who had planned ahead and secured spots in cozy huts along the way. They had the smart idea of breaking their climb into smaller, more manageable sections, giving themselves a chance to get used to the altitude comfortably.

Unlike them, I didn’t have that luxury. I was exhausted, struggling to catch my breath. Every few minutes, I had to stop to rest and gather the strength to continue. But even when I did push forward, it wasn’t long before fatigue set in again. It wasn’t just my lungs giving up on me; the steepness of the mountain meant I had to lean heavily into it, which threw me off balance and caused me to stumble over my own feet.

And as if things weren’t difficult enough, the temperature was dropping rapidly. The chill in the air was becoming downright bone-chilling.

After hiking for about an hour, we finally reached the 8th station, and even though we couldn’t see anything above us, we knew we were getting close. That’s when I started feeling sick, and eventually, I threw up.

You might be thinking, “Oh, it’s probably because of the altitude.” Well, believe it or not, that thought didn’t even cross our minds.

We never imagined that what we were doing could be dangerous. Sure, it was challenging, but as South Africans, our instinct was to keep going. We lived by the Japanese saying: Keizoku wa chikara nari . In other words, pushing forward is a sign of strength.

As we climbed higher, the wind got colder and stronger. I had to tie my rugby jersey around my head to protect my ears from freezing. Every time we took a break, we would start getting uncomfortable headaches – not too painful, but definitely bothersome. So, instead of stopping as often, we decided to slow down our pace.

As I stood at the summit, the first light of dawn began to creep over the horizon. A mix of excitement and nervousness filled me, fearing that time might run out before I reached the top. Then, a glimmer of hope emerged as I spotted a towering torii gate, a symbol of triumph and accomplishment. We had trekked for six long hours, and miraculously, we still had 20 minutes to spare before the sun would reveal itself. A feeling of pure elation washed over us.

Our jubilation, however, was short-lived. The wind had transformed into a fierce gale, and there was little shelter available at the summit. Yet, a small locked hut stood strong amidst the elements, providing refuge for the 20 or so climbers huddled together, seeking protection from the biting wind. We anxiously awaited the sunrise, knowing that its arrival would mark a moment of great beauty and awe.

At precisely 4:22, the sun made its grand entrance, illuminating the vast expanse before us. The sound of triumphant cheers and the joyous cry of “Banzai!” filled the air, echoing the collective amazement and wonder of the crowd. It was undeniably a breathtaking sight, but the biting cold quickly reminded us that celebration would have to wait. We were chilled to the bone, our bodies shivering uncontrollably, and our thoughts consumed by the descent that awaited us.

But we hadn’t actually looked inside the volcano yet. To do that, we had to walk up another path – just 50 meters – to reach a viewing spot where we could finally see down into the crater.

We were hesitant to walk out onto that last stretch of pathway, completely exposed to a freezing wind that felt like it was coming straight from the North Pole.

But we couldn’t resist the fear of missing out, so we had to go up and find out what all the excitement was about.

Once we were out in the open, the wind brought icy rain and hail that hit our skin like frozen needles. It felt like our faces were being stabbed as we made our way up to the viewing spot. We looked down into the crater for a moment, exchanged glances, and quickly ran back down to the hut.

We had done it. We had conquered Fuji, we had looked into the heart of the volcano…

Have you ever heard the saying, “Ame futte ji katamaru”? It means that even when it rains and the ground becomes wet, it eventually hardens. In other words, adversity can help us grow and develop.

Imagine this scenario: you have a big task ahead of you, but you’re feeling overwhelmed. You might think, “I can’t do this. It’s too much for me.” But what if I told you that facing challenges head-on can actually make you stronger?

When we encounter difficulties, it’s natural to feel discouraged or unsure of ourselves. We might even want to give up. But instead of letting adversity defeat us, we have an opportunity to rise above it.

Adversity is like a teacher that pushes us to think and act differently. It presents us with new perspectives and helps us discover strengths we never knew we had. When we overcome challenges, we gain confidence and resilience.

Think about a time when you faced a difficult situation. Maybe it was a challenging test or a sports competition. Remember how you felt before, during, and after? Chances are, you experienced a mix of emotions: fear, doubt, determination, and eventually, a sense of accomplishment.

Life is full of obstacles, both big and small. But instead of avoiding them, we can embrace them as opportunities for growth. By facing challenges head-on, we can develop new skills, deepen our understanding of ourselves, and become better equipped to handle whatever comes our way.

So, the next time you find yourself facing a difficult situation, remember the saying, “Ame futte ji katamaru.” See it as a reminder that even when things get tough, you have the power to overcome and grow. Embrace the rain, and let it strengthen you.

Remember: It’s not about whether we encounter adversity in life—it’s about how we respond to it. And when we choose to face challenges head-on, we can turn them into opportunities for personal growth and development.

This article originally appeared in the June 2022 print issue of Getaway