Hiking the Wild Coast: My Adventurous Journey from Port St Johns to Coffee Bay
Hey there! Have you ever wanted to go on an exciting hiking adventure? Well, let me tell you about my thrilling journey along the Wild Coast, from Port St Johns to Coffee Bay. It was an unforgettable experience that I’ll cherish forever.
Picture this: stunning landscapes, pristine beaches, and rugged cliffs as far as the eye can see. This untouched wilderness was the backdrop for my epic hike. The Wild Coast truly lives up to its name – it’s wild, untamed, and absolutely breathtaking.
As I started my hike from Port St Johns, I was filled with anticipation and curiosity. What wonders would I discover along the way? Little did I know that each step I took would lead me to something truly remarkable.
The first part of the hike took me through lush forests, where the sunlight filtered through the dense canopy above. I could hear the birds chirping and the rustle of leaves under my feet. It was a peaceful and serene start to my adventure.
As I emerged from the forest, I was greeted by dramatic cliffs towering above the crashing waves. The sight was awe-inspiring, and I couldn’t help but marvel at the power of nature. The Wild Coast had a way of humbling me, reminding me of the magnificence of the world we live in.
The next leg of the journey brought me to hidden coves and secluded beaches. The white sand and turquoise waters were like something out of a dream. I couldn’t resist taking a dip in the refreshing ocean, feeling alive and connected to the natural beauty surrounding me.
Throughout the hike, I encountered friendly locals who shared stories of their coastal communities. They spoke of traditions passed down through generations and the resilience of the people who call this rugged coastline home. It was a humbling reminder of the importance of preserving and respecting the places we visit.
The final stretch of my hike led me to Coffee Bay, a small village nestled between rolling green hills and pristine beaches. The warm and welcoming atmosphere of the village made me feel right at home. I spent my days exploring the area, meeting new people, and immersing myself in the vibrant culture.
Looking back on my adventure along the Wild Coast, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and wonder. It was an experience that challenged me, inspired me, and connected me to the natural world in a way I had never experienced before. If you’re an adventurer at heart, I highly recommend embarking on your own journey along the Wild Coast. Trust me, you won’t regret it.
Ah, the Wild Coast. What a unique and remarkable corner of the world it is. The journey to get there may be a bit challenging, but the moment you finally arrive, a sense of tranquility washes over you. As you navigate through winding roads, there’s always the anticipation of encountering a few unexpected obstacles, like a cow that decides to take a leisurely stroll across the path. Thankfully, these gentle creatures often give a warning look before they make their move, allowing you to quickly respond and avoid any heart-stopping moments with a well-timed brake slam.
Beware the sheep. They may appear calm and content grazing on the grass by the road, but don’t be fooled. Without warning, these woolly creatures can suddenly decide it’s their time to cross. They do so nonchalantly, completely oblivious to the chaos they may cause. Countless cars have screeched to a halt to avoid a collision.
Yet, despite the occasional heart-stopping moment, the road trip offers a tantalizing glimpse into a world of breathtaking beauty. As you make your way to Coffee Bay, prepare to feast your eyes on awe-inspiring vistas that will leave you speechless. And when you finally reach your destination, the town itself exudes a laid-back vibe that instantly puts you at ease.
Parking the car, we barely had time to settle in before we were approached by someone offering to sell us weed or shrooms, a unique and unforgettable welcome to this extraordinary place.
It was just the right time for our hike, right in that sweet spot between Christmas and New Year. You could feel the festive spirit in the air as the backpackers in Coffee Bay were getting ready for a night of celebration.
As my hiking group and I drove into town, we gathered at a café with a view of the village, enjoying beer and pizza. It quickly became clear that we didn’t have enough cash on hand for our needs. Unfortunately, Coffee Bay didn’t have any ATMs, so we started to worry.
But then someone reassured us, pointing towards a building in the valley. “Just go to the rusted roof and talk to the Pakistani guy. He’ll take care of you,” they said. With no further information, we made our way to the rusty roof to find the only person in town who had a card machine. It turned out to be a simple, seamless process – all we had to do was make a card payment, he would take his fair share, and we would have our cash in hand.
So, here’s the thing: after an incredibly fun first night, which was sort of a sneak peek of what the whole hiking trip would be like, my friends and I decided it was time to call it a day and get some rest. The only problem was that the hostel we stayed at apparently thought it was the perfect time to throw a wild trance party. It was loud and lively, to say the least. We didn’t really have much choice in terms of accommodation since we didn’t book ahead, so we ended up setting up our tent right next to the dance floor.
The morning started off calmly as we gathered together and boarded the shuttle to Port St Johns. But there was something eerie about reaching the hiking starting point and seeing a beach covered in signs warning about sharks.
As soon as we arrived, we met our guide, Vuyo. She made an immediate impression with her relaxed and carefree demeanor, dressed casually in jeans and carrying only a small backpack. Meanwhile, we came prepared with all our hiking gear, ready for an adventure.
Our journey started with the first day, which led us through the Silaka Nature Reserve. This incredible reserve is spread over 400 hectares and is filled with lush coastal forest. As we ventured further, we couldn’t help but hope for a glimpse of the majestic blue wildebeest or the elegant Burchell’s zebra that call this place home.
Cows belonging to the Nguni breed are scattered all over the landscape.
On the first day of the hike, you’ll have the chance to explore the picturesque rolling hills that are iconic to the Wild Coast. The initial hill you encounter is aptly named Heartbreak Hill, as the burning sensation in your legs reminds you that this is not a leisurely walk in paradise, but a challenging hike. While our legs were on fire, Vuyo effortlessly conquered the hill, not even breaking a sweat.
Next, you’ll come across the first of many ferries that transport hikers across wide river mouths and estuaries. These beautiful lagoons provide a convenient mode of transportation across what would otherwise require a long swim. It’s an extraordinary sight to witness these ferries, which primarily serve the locals who traverse these paths daily, and we are fortunate enough to simply hop aboard.
When I embarked on the Wild Coast hike, I was amazed by the number of ferries we had to take to cross the wide river mouths along the route. It was an exciting and unique aspect of the hike that added to the adventure.
What truly sets the Wild Coast hike apart is the sense of connection with nature. Unlike other hikes where you may feel isolated, here you are always surrounded by the breathtaking beauty of the coast. It’s a feeling that brings immense joy and tranquility.
One of the highlights of the guided hike is the delicious dinners provided. After a long day of trekking, reaching our accommodation for the night – a cozy rondavel with a thatched roof and cow dung floors – was a delightful feeling. The aroma of coffee and freshly baked bread filled the air, creating a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
After I arrived at my first night’s accommodation in Madakeni Village, I felt a wave of relaxation wash over me. It’s always a relief to settle in after a long journey.
What makes this hike special is how it involves the local community. The people who live in the village are your hosts for the evening, and that adds a genuine warmth to the experience. From Vuyo, our knowledgeable guide, to the families that welcome us into their homes, it’s an opportunity to connect with the culture and traditions of the Xhosa people.
When I arrived at the village, supper wasn’t quite ready yet, so I had some time to explore. One of the places I ended up at was the shabeen. There’s something unique about having a drink there. The beer comes in a quart-sized bottle, and there’s a sense of nostalgia and history that comes along with it. Each little chip or mark on the bottle tells a story, a testament to the fun and laughter shared by previous drinkers. I’m proud to add my own memories to the collection.
I have had the privilege of meeting a remarkable host named Mama Christina, a Xhosa woman who possesses an incredible talent for hospitality. Her warmth and generosity made a lasting impression on me and the other guests. We were treated to a magnificent feast that left us all in awe, and the evening turned into a friendly competition for the delicious remaining scraps of food.
When we first arrived, Mama Christina greeted us with open arms, embracing each of us in a warm hug. She even took some lucky individuals on a tour of her impressive vegetable patch. It was truly admirable to see how much of the land she had cultivated on her own, extending all the way down the valley next to her home. She even had a small plot of mielies (corn) that she nurtured with love and care.
Mama Christina’s dedication to her home and the abundance she created was truly inspiring. She demonstrated the power of hard work and a genuine love for the land. Her delicious food and welcoming spirit made us feel like family, and we will always treasure the memories of our time spent with her.
So, she invites us into her home, and we get to see this massive bag of dagga that she harvested recently! It’s pretty incredible to think that growing cannabis has been such a crucial part of the economy in some parts of the Eastern Cape, despite the lack of basic facilities and resources. And get this, during one day of our hike, we actually stumble upon a cannabis plantation! Now, as for the quality of the buds, well, that’s something you’ll have to find out for yourself.
When I wake up in the morning, I always start my day with a delicious breakfast. It’s the perfect way to energize myself for the day ahead. I usually have a bowl of warm mealie porridge, along with some bread, eggs cooked with tomatoes and fried onions. As I sit at the breakfast table, I take my time to savor every bite and sip on a hot cup of coffee.
After breakfast, I feel refreshed and ready to hit the road again. As I continue my journey along the coastline, I can’t help but notice the beautiful Nguni cows. These cows roam freely without any fences, gracefully grazing on the hills or relaxing on the beach. They seem to live such carefree lives, and it’s a joy to see them in their natural habitat.
Hey there! Let me tell you about this amazing hike I went on. The scenery was absolutely breathtaking, with Ngunis grazing and rolling hills scattered with charming rondavels. It never gets old, I tell you!
So, on the fourth day of the hike, we finally arrived at our last stop for the night: Tshani village. But before reaching the village, we had to go through a thrilling adventure. We had to wade through the Mdumbi River mouth, which was quite a challenge. But it was totally worth it because it led us to the most beautiful beach at Mdumbi.
Oh, and did I mention the final hill we had to conquer to reach Tshani village? It was quite a climb, let me tell you. But the view from up there was absolutely majestic.
Anyway, this hike was truly an experience I’ll never forget. The stunning coastal scenery, the river crossing, and the final ascent made it all the more exciting. If you’re into outdoor adventures like me, you’ll definitely love this hike!
Man, that final stretch to Coffee Bay flew by quicker than I wanted it to. The whole day feels like a hazy memory now. It was wild passing all those busy beaches on New Year’s Day – it felt like the party never died down from the night before. Even though the hike wasn’t too tough, I still felt exhausted by the time I reached the end. All I wanted was to chill out and recover after days of walking and celebrating.
Difficulty
Going on this hike isn’t too hard, just like you found out from hearing about our visits to the shabeen. But it’s still a bit of a challenge, so it’s important to take some time to rest at the end of the day. The hike is pretty relaxed, so you’ll have plenty of time to enjoy yourself at the beach and even take off your shoes to walk in the sand. You won’t have to worry about carrying a heavy backpack because breakfast and dinner are provided. All you’ll need to bring is your lunch and some snacks.
If you’re worried about the food, don’t be! It’s delicious and there’s plenty of it. You’ll get to enjoy traditional dishes like Umngqusho, pap, isonka samanzi, and maybe even crayfish. These meals will be the perfect nourishment after a long hike.
When it comes to accommodation, you don’t have to worry about that either. You’ll be staying in a cozy rondavel with comfortable beds and sheets provided. No need to pack a sleeping bag! Just remember to bring some cash with you in case you want to grab a drink at a shabeen or buy a souvenir. There won’t be any ATMs along the way.
Here’s a breakdown of the hike:
Day 1 – Port St John’s to Madakeni Village: 12km
Day 2 – Madakeni Village to Tsweleni Village: 11km
Day 3 – Tsweleni Village to Lucingweni Village: 17km
Day 4 – Lucingweni Village to Tshani Village: 16km
Day 5 – Tshani Village to Coffee Bay: 11km
If you’re interested in booking this amazing experience, here’s how you can do it:
Day 1 – Port St John’s to Madakeni Village 12km
Day 2 – Madakeni Village to Tsweleni Village 11 km
Day 2 – Tsweleni Village to Lucingweni Village 17km
Day 4 – Lucingweni Village to Tshani Village 16km
Day 5 – Tshani Village to Coffee Bay 11km
To Book
If you’re looking for an adventure in the great outdoors, I have just the thing for you! Bookings can be made through Wild Side hiking, who will take care of your accommodation, food, and guides. The best part is that the price of the hike varies based on the size of your group. The more people you bring along, the cheaper it becomes for each person. So, gather your friends and head over to their website to check out available dates and make a booking. Trust me, you won’t regret it!
Pictures: David Henning
Have you ever wondered why we are drawn to art and images? It’s fascinating to explore the ways in which we interpret visual stimuli and the impact they have on us.
When I look at a piece of art, it’s like stepping into another world. I’m transported to a realm where colors, shapes, and textures come together to tell a story or evoke emotions. It’s a journey that engages my senses and allows me to see the world through the eyes of the artist.
Art has the power to stir something deep within us. It can make us feel joy, sadness, awe, or even confusion. And that’s the beauty of it – its ability to provoke a wide range of emotions and provoke thought.
Art is not just about what we see on the surface; it’s about what lies beneath. It’s about the meaning, the symbolism, the message that the artist is trying to convey. It’s about the human experience and our connection to the world around us.
When you encounter a work of art, take a moment to pause and reflect. What does it make you feel? What does it make you think? What do you see that may not be immediately apparent?
Art is a powerful tool for communication. It allows us to express ourselves, to share our thoughts, and to connect with others on a deeper level. It can transcend language and cultural barriers, speaking to us in a universal language that we can all understand.
So, next time you find yourself in an art gallery or standing in front of a painting, take a moment to truly engage with it. Let it transport you, challenge you, and inspire you. Allow yourself to be captivated by the beauty and complexity of the visual world. Who knows what you might discover?
