Flying Blind – An Adventure in Eswatini

Ah, Eswatini! A small kingdom nestled amidst the stunning landscapes of Southern Africa. As I took a deep breath of the country’s fresh air, I couldn’t help but marvel at the beauty that stretched out before me.

My journey began with a hint of trepidation. You see, I had decided to embark on this adventure with no prior knowledge or plans. It was a leap into the unknown, a daring act of flying blind, and I couldn’t be more excited.

The moment I set foot on Eswatini’s soil, I realized the uniqueness of this experience. Everything was a mystery waiting to be unraveled, an opportunity for discovery at every turn. I found myself gazing at the vast array of plants and animals, unfamiliar yet captivating in their own right.

Eswatini’s rich culture and heritage were equally fascinating. From the lively dances and vibrant attire to the warm smiles of the locals, I was enchanted by the authenticity that permeated every interaction. It was as if the country itself was inviting me to embrace its wonders.

As I continued my adventure, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of liberation. The absence of a predetermined path allowed me to navigate each day with a hint of spontaneity. I would stumble upon hidden gems, awe-inspiring landscapes, and unexpected moments of connection, each one leaving an indelible mark on my journey.

There were challenges, of course. Without a map or a set plan, I sometimes found myself lost or uncertain. Yet, these moments of confusion only served to amplify the thrill. I embraced the unknown and trusted that each stumble would lead me closer to a remarkable experience.

The adventure came with its fair share of surprises, just like life itself. I discovered the joy of immersing myself in new surroundings, of meeting people whose stories were vastly different from mine. And in those moments, I realized that being lost was not a setback but rather an opportunity for growth.

As my time in Eswatini drew to a close, I couldn’t help but reflect on the transformative nature of this journey. Flying blind had gifted me an adventure beyond my wildest dreams. It had shown me the beauty of embracing the unknown, of stepping out of my comfort zone to truly experience the world around me.

So, I invite you to take a leap, to embark on your own adventure with an open mind and a brave heart. Who knows? You might just find yourself soaring to new heights, guided by the thrill and wonder of the unknown, just as I did in the enchanting kingdom of Eswatini.

Alright, picture this: I embarked on a thrilling five-day escapade in Eswatini, all in pursuit of that heart-racing rush. And let me tell you, I found it. I’m talking about an “extreme hike,” mind-blowing adventure caving, and yes, I even dabbled in the realm of mysticism. It was an adventure like no other.

As I made my way down the trail towards the top of Malolotja Falls, I couldn’t help but notice the serene surroundings. There was not a soul in sight, only the gentle sound of the distant river, the swaying of tall grass, and the cheerful melodies of the birds. It’s incredible to think that this very river got its name from an ancient tale of a cattle herder who fell asleep under a tree, forever giving it the moniker “Malolotja” which means ‘lullaby’.

Our journey into the Kingdom of Eswatini took place on a beautiful autumn day. Accompanying me was my childhood friend, MJ Judge. He had no clue about our destination, and I purposely kept him in the dark. All he knew was that we’d be in Eswatini for a brief five-day getaway. I playfully instructed him to pack a swimming costume, hiking shoes, and even a flare gun. I thought the lack of information would stir some worry, but I underestimated MJ’s calm and laid-back nature. He’s truly the most relaxed person I’ve ever met.

So, let me tell you something I’ve learned in life: you can’t rush MJ when it comes to a cup of tea. Before our trip, not a single question crossed his mind. We sped past avocado sellers, wood carvers, and roadside cows in our Toyota C-HR as we ventured further into Africa’s last absolute monarchy.

If you were to condense all of Africa’s classic attractions into a space measuring roughly 180 kilometers long and 120 kilometers wide, you’d have Eswatini (formerly known as Swaziland). It’s got everything from big game and traditional culture to breathtaking views and loads of adventure sports. Our main focus? Testing the rumors. Is Eswatini truly a paradise for adventurers?

As we approached our first mysterious location, I couldn’t help but feel a wave of curiosity. I turned to MJ, my companion, and asked, “Don’t you want to know what awaits us?” To my surprise, he seemed uninterested. However, I soon discovered that MJ was simply content with the idea of unplugging and unwinding. “Compared to Joburg, this place feels so open and expansive,” he explained. “It’s like you can take a deep breath and truly relax.” We had only been in Eswatini for 10 minutes, and MJ was already in vacation mode, fully embracing the tranquil ambiance.

Darron Raw, the owner of Swazi Trails, a company that specializes in adventure experiences, has dubbed Sibebe an “Extreme Hike”, and I couldn’t agree more. Photo: Matthew Sterne

As I approached Malolotja National Park, a majestic sight unfolded before my eyes. The mountains, covered in lush green grass, resembled the powerful muscles of a majestic creature of the forest. Excitement filled the air as we prepared to embark on a thrilling adventure – a hike to the magnificent Malolotja Waterfall, the tallest waterfall in Eswatini. But before setting off, we decided to kick-start our journey with a zipline tour, which took us on a thrilling ride through a wooded gorge. Despite some initial nerves, we were quickly inspired by a group of fearless six-year-olds who fearlessly glided through the sky. Following an unwritten code of bravery, my friend MJ and I did our best to act cool and composed. Little did we know what awaited us the next day.

Sibebe Rock is like the Uluru (Ayers Rock) of Australia, but even bigger. It’s a giant dome made of granite that towers over the Mbuluzi River Valley. The rock is so steep that it’s considered the toughest climb in the world. I should know. My name is Darron Raw, and I love pushing my limits. I’ve faced countless dangers, from handling snakes to paragliding, and I even serve as a local councilor, which is its own kind of thrill. I was drawn to Eswatini by its untamed rivers when I was a young paddler in South Africa. The laid-back lifestyle and endless possibilities convinced me to make it my home.

‘Listen up,’ Darron said, ‘I’m gonna tell you the secret to scaling this beast. You gotta walk upright, like a gecko, with your toes pointing outwards. I know it’s gonna feel all sorts of wrong, but trust me, it’s the only way to stay on this rock.’ We cautiously made our way around the base of the mountain, searching for a way up. Eventually, we found a narrow crack and started shimmying our way up. The angle was so insane that it felt like one tiny slip and we would be tumbling down the slope. We had to be careful. The sound of a water bottle plummeting and exploding below us reminded us of the consequences of a single mistake. I glanced back and saw MJ following me, his face pale, his eyes wide open with fear. I couldn’t help but secretly enjoy his vulnerable state.’

It took us a whole hour to scramble up to the top of the plateau, defying gravity along the way. Once we finally reached our destination, we were greeted by a playground of boulders. From that vantage point, we admired the view of the narrow valley stretching out below us, dotted with small huts, and the ridge on the opposite side. A jackal buzzard swooped past us, adding to the excitement of the moment.

While we enjoyed a snack, my friend Darron shared his insights about this place he now called home. He described it as a more laid-back and friendly environment. He mentioned that there was a sense of the Wild West here, as people felt free to do things that they might not normally do back home. Crossing the border into this new land, visitors found something familiar yet refreshingly different. They relished the feeling of vast open space, as if it were exclusively theirs.

The journey down was just as peculiar as the ascent. Rather than veering off at an angle, we carefully descended straight down. We took small steps, maintaining our balance and trying to stay calm amidst this unnerving descent.

When MJ and I went on our rafting trip along the Lusutfu River, we encountered an exciting challenge – a weir. I can still picture the moment captured in the photo of us bravely facing the weir as we navigated our way through the rapids.

After our thrilling rafting experience, we didn’t have much time to rest. Our next adventure was about to begin that very evening. Darron, our guide, drove us up into the mountains above the Ezulwini Valley. We were given overalls and hard hats and embarked on an hour-long hike to a small rocky opening.

With the night creeping in, Darron told us, “We’re now standing at the entrance of a complex network of caves. We’ve mapped out two kilometers of it, but we believe that’s only five percent of the entire cave system. If our calculations are correct, this would make it one of the largest granite caves in the world. It’s like a massive pile of boulders stacked on top of one another. As we explore, we’ll be like ants cautiously making our way through a mound of gravel.” Darron smiled mischievously and added, “There are different kinds of adventures – some soft and some hard. Brace yourselves because this is definitely not a soft adventure.”

Feeling like adventurous explorers, my friends and I approached the mysterious cave. The narrow spaces between the massive rocks seemed impossible to navigate, but we were determined to continue. For hours, we squeezed our way through tight passages, maneuvering down narrow chutes, crawling across rough terrain, and carefully descending steep ledges.

As we made our way deeper into the cave, we encountered landmarks with quirky names, each one accompanied by a fascinating story. The “German Hole” and the “French Connection” were particularly amusing, with tales of previous encounters with curious tourists. Our journey led us to a breathtaking moment when we stumbled upon a captivating formation of flowing water called a flowstone. The cave also revealed sleeping bats and a unique species of harvestmen spiders that could only be found in these underground chambers.

As I descended about 70 meters into the cave, I could hear the sound of rushing water. It was like a symphony echoing through the cavern. The Gobholo River, which flows underground for two kilometers, was our ultimate destination. Turning off our headlamps, we were plunged into complete darkness. It was in that moment that I realized just how deep inside the mountain we were.

We reached out to feel the river with our hands, the cool water providing some relief from the heat of our adventure. But it was time to go back. We had to navigate our way out through a different path, twisting and turning our bodies to make it through the narrow passages. Finally, after what felt like an eternity, we emerged from the darkness, sweaty and dirty. Breathing in the fresh air, we were overwhelmed with a sense of relief and accomplishment.

The overalls were incredibly useful to me during my adventure in Gobholo Cave. As a Welsh traveler, I found myself grateful for their protection. Photo: Matthew Sterne

After my cave exploration, I had the thrilling opportunity to go whitewater rafting on the Lusutfu River. It was an unforgettable experience as we navigated through the rural surroundings, passing by cows leisurely drinking from the riverbanks and herons gracefully perched in the shallows. Along the way, we encountered a series of small rapids that we gleefully bounced through, but the grand finale was a massive rapid that even took our guides by surprise. It’s like Brexit – it comes out of nowhere, can lead to chaos, and confounds everyone.

The next day, I had an amazing experience at Mlilwane Wildlife Reserve. We decided to go mountain biking and horse riding. It was such a thrilling adventure! As we rode our horses, we passed by calm zebras and blesboks. We even saw Execution Rock, where criminals were once thrown off for their misdeeds. I was captivated by the majestic Sheba’s Breasts, twin peaks that had a connection to King Solomon’s Mines. The famous author, H. Rider Haggard, is said to have been inspired by this place when he wrote his novel in the 1880s. Isn’t that fascinating?

Throughout our trip, we had been staying in the beautiful Ezulwini Valley. On our final day, we had a different plan in mind. We had to pass through the bustling city of Manzini and venture into the far north-east of the kingdom. I was a bit unsure about our unique adventure, wondering what MJ, our guide, would think of it. Nevertheless, he had been so easygoing and accommodating with all our activities so far.

I went on a guided mountain-bike tour with guide Mpendulo Dlamini in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, and it was amazing! During the tour, I had the chance to snack on a wild fig. I even got a photo of the experience, taken by Matthew Sterne. It was such a fun and unique adventure, and I highly recommend it. If you’re looking for a thrilling way to explore nature, this is the perfect activity for you. The sanctuary is filled with beautiful landscapes and wildlife, making it a truly unforgettable experience. So why not give it a try? Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!

Perched atop the Lubombo Mountains, Shewula Mountain Camp offers a breathtaking vista of the neighboring game parks. ‘You can see the entire Swazi Lowveld on a clear day,’ Lindiwe Sifundza, the manager, shared with me. Shewula, which has been around for 20 years, was Eswatini’s pioneering eco-tourism endeavor. It was at this very place that I had the chance to meet the local medicine man in his humble abode.

I inquired about the sangoma’s craft, curious to understand its inner workings. ‘If you have faith in it, it works,’ Lindiwe enthusiastically proclaimed. Glancing around, I noticed numerous bottles, brimming with finely-ground tree bark and roots – ingredients for the sangoma’s potent potions, tailored to treat a medley of maladies, including snakebites, pregnancy complications, and ‘troubled minds’. Shelves held a row of gourds, each adorned with quills from porcupines. A fragrant gust of wood smoke announced the entrance of the sangoma, donning a waistcoat crafted from a vervet monkey’s hide.

So, here’s what happened. The sangoma starts off by telling us about his journey to becoming a sangoma. It’s fascinating to hear about the things he’s experienced and the path he’s taken. Then, he brings out all these different objects – bones, shells, seeds, sticks, and dice. It’s quite a collection! And then, he asks us if we want our fortunes told. Of course, we’re all intrigued, so we say yes. With a smile on his face, he throws the bones onto his mat, and we wait in anticipation.

There’s a moment of silence as he carefully sifts through the bones, shells, seeds, sticks, and dice. He takes his time, really focusing on what he sees. Then, he starts talking. Now, I don’t understand the language he’s speaking, but luckily, Lindiwe is there to translate for us. She does a great job, making sure we understand every word.

What he says is really interesting. He tells me that I need to pay more attention to my ancestors, especially my father’s mother. Apparently, if I do a small ceremony involving a bath and some coins, it will bring me luck and good travels. I’m definitely considering it!

He goes on to tell us more personal and intriguing things, enough to make me wonder about his words even now. And then, it’s MJ’s turn. He goes into the hut, just like I did earlier, and comes out with that same rattled look on his face. I know that look. It means there’s something he wants to talk about on the way home.

Amongst the various bottles and calabashes, I found a sangoma named Mahlalenyonini. He possessed a collection of whips that served both as protection against evil spirits and a means of communication with them. It was a sight that fascinated me.

Our journey had been filled with unusual and exciting experiences, leaving us feeling incredibly calm and at ease. Perhaps this was the magic of the Kingdom at work. The hidden rivers, endless caves, bubbling hot springs, and vast empty valleys had a certain enchantment to them. It was almost as if we had stepped into a world beyond our own, where anything was possible.

I couldn’t help but be reminded of the words of Frederick Buechner, a writer who once said that deep down, we all secretly long for a world that is more than what meets the eye. A world where magic and wonder exist just beyond our reach. Like stepping through a hidden door into Narnia or stumbling upon a group of friendly dwarves in a forest. And sometimes, when you venture beyond the borders of Mpumalanga and explore the far side of the highveld, you find yourself in a true adventurer’s paradise.

Get Ready for Your Journey

How to Arrive
When traveling from Johannesburg, you have two options to reach the Oshoek Border Post within a reasonable four-hour drive. You can choose between the N12 or N17 routes, depending on your preference. Both routes will take you to the border without encountering any major traffic congestion. The N17 provides a direct path to the border, while the N12 connects with the N4 before joining the N17.

What You Need to Know

If you’re a South African passport holder, here’s some good news: you won’t need a visa to travel. Just make sure you have third-party insurance, which you can get at the border for only R50.

Where to Stay

If you’re looking for a relaxing getaway, let me recommend a few places:

First, there’s the Hawane Resort. With its 23 thatched, en-suite chalets, this place offers a cozy and comfortable stay. And if you’re up for some horse riding, you can take a ride to the dam for R220 per person per hour. You can book a bed and breakfast starting from R495 per person at hawane.co.sz.

Next, we have the Mantenga Lodge in Mlilwane. From its deck, you can enjoy breathtaking views of Execution Rock, while being surrounded by tall trees. Not only were we impressed by the lodge’s service and food, but the rooms also exceeded our expectations. Rates for bed and breakfast start at R520 per person at mantengalodge.com.

Lastly, there’s the Shewula Mountain Camp. Located on the Lubombo Mountains, this camp offers stone chalets and traditional meals. It’s the perfect place to unwind and take in the beauty of nature. Rates start from R220 per person, and you can find more information at shewulacamp.org.

When it comes to visiting Eswatini, there are some fantastic places to eat that you won’t want to miss. Let me tell you about two of my favorites.

First up, we have Mantenga Craft & Lifestyle Centre. It’s not your typical food court – it’s actually an outdoor space situated under a massive rubber tree. You’ll find a variety of little shops selling all sorts of unique items. And when you start to feel hungry, head over to the pizzeria or the one and only coffee roaster in Eswatini. Plus, there’s even a wine boutique if you’re in the mood for a nice glass of vino. Trust me, this place is a must-visit. You can also check them out on Facebook to get a sneak peek!

Now, let me introduce you to another gem – Malandela’s Restaurant. This place is an absolute icon in Eswatini and for good reason. They serve up some mouthwatering dishes that you won’t find anywhere else. I highly recommend trying Sir George’s oxtails – they’re simply divine. And if you’re in the mood for a mixed grill or a juicy burger, they’ve got you covered. Don’t just take my word for it – head over to their website at malandelas.com to see for yourself.

So, if you’re looking for an unforgettable dining experience during your visit to Eswatini, these two spots should be at the top of your list. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!

Mantenga Lifestyle Centre. Photo: Matthew Sterne

Let’s Try This

How about going on a thrilling ziplining adventure at Malolotja National Park? You’ll soar through the treetops on a canopy tour that features 10 ziplines. These ziplines criss-cross over a stunning gorge, with the longest one measuring 130 meters and the highest one reaching 60 meters. Prepare yourself for an adrenaline-pumping experience that lasts around 2 and a half hours. All of this excitement can be yours for just R695. Take a look at canopytour.co.za for more details.

When you go on the Malolotja Canopy Tour, you’ll have the chance to zip along thrilling ziplines with names like Ant House, The Ferrari, and Wind Cheetah. The first one used to be called The Rabbit Hole because it feels like you’re stepping into a whole new world. It’s an amazing experience that will leave you wanting more. Just take a look at this incredible photo taken by Matthew Sterne. It really captures the magic of the tour.

One of the things you should definitely do while you’re at Malolotja is take a hike to Malolotja Waterfall. With over 200km of trails to explore in the park’s vast 18,000ha area, there’s something for everyone. The three-hour trail to the tallest waterfall is an absolute must. You won’t believe the breathtaking views you’ll encounter along the way. And the best part? It’s only R30 to enter the park. You don’t want to miss out on this unforgettable experience.

Another incredible adventure you can embark on is summiting Sibebe Rock. This majestic rock formation offers a challenging trek with no ropes or railings to hold onto. But the reward at the top is absolutely worth it. The view from the plateau is breathtaking, and you’ll feel on top of the world. The cost is R465 per person, and it’s an experience you’ll remember for a lifetime.

If you’re up for some more excitement, you should definitely explore the Gobholo Cave. This cave system is not for the faint of heart, as it can be quite tight and claustrophobic. But if you’re an adventurer at heart, you’ll love every minute of it. It’s a rare opportunity to discover an unexplored cave and experience the thrill of the unknown. The cost is R625 per person, and it’s an adventure you won’t soon forget.

So there you have it. These are just a few of the amazing experiences that await you at Malolotja. Whether you’re seeking adrenaline-pumping activities or peaceful hikes in nature, this park has it all. Don’t miss out on the chance to create unforgettable memories in this breathtaking destination.

Let’s go white-water rafting together! Eswatini has been offering this thrilling adventure for more than 25 years, and you don’t want to miss out. You can join a trip any day of the year. Swazi Trails has both half-day and full-day tours available, and they even offer a combination package that includes rafting, abseiling, and tubing. You’ll start your journey from the Mantenga Craft & Lifestyle Centre. It’s only R1,150 per person, so let’s get our adrenaline pumping! Check out their website at swazitrails.co.sz for more details.

How about riding horses in Mlilwane? Chubeka Trails has everything you need for a fantastic horseback adventure. Whether you want to go for an hour or spend a whole day exploring the Rock of Execution Trail, they’ve got you covered. They even offer multi-day camping trails for groups of two to eight people. The prices are incredibly reasonable, starting at R340 for a one-hour ride. I can already imagine the wind in our hair as we embark on this unforgettable experience. Visit biggameparks.org to learn more.

Let’s go mountain biking in Mlilwane! Picture this: riding through vast plains of wildlife, surrounded by zebras, kudus, and blesboks. In the 4,560-hectare reserve, you can choose between self-guided or guided routes for your biking adventure. If you’re confident in your skills, go for the self-guided option. If you’d rather have some expert guidance, they also offer guided tours. Bike rentals start at just R135 for one hour (unguided) and R190 for a guided tour. It’s a fantastic way to connect with nature and get your heart pumping. Check out biggameparks.org to find out more.

Welcome to Shewula Mountain Camp! I’m so excited to tell you about all the amazing activities we have to offer. Whether you’re into mountain biking, hiking, village tours, or visiting a local sangoma, we’ve got something for everyone. And the best part? Each activity is only R70! So, let’s dive in and explore the wonders of Shewula Mountain Camp. Check out our website at shewulacamp.org for more information.

Let me introduce you to our awesome vehicle

When it comes to getting around Eswatini, we’ve got just the vehicle for you. Have you ever heard of the Toyota C-HR 1.2T Luxury CVT? It’s a real game-changer for our trips here. This crossover vehicle combines the agility of a hatchback with the convenience of an SUV, making it perfect for exploring the stunning landscapes of Eswatini. With its turbocharged 1.2L four-cylinder petrol engine, sleek design, and cutting-edge tech features, the C-HR is sure to elevate your travel experience. So why wait? Come and experience the thrill of exploring Eswatini in style with our amazing Toyota C-HR. Check out toyota.co.za for more details. The price? Just R441,900.