Contents
Fatbiking to Reel in the Love of a Fish
Hey there, fellow adventurers! Today, I want to take you on a journey through the world of fatbiking, all in pursuit of a common goal: the love of fishing. So, grab your gear, put on your helmet, and let’s dive right in!
Now, I know what you’re thinking – what in the world is fatbiking? Well, let me break it down for you. Fatbiking is a type of biking that takes you on an off-road adventure, equipped with special bikes that have extra-wide tires. These chunky wheels allow you to tackle any terrain, from sandy beaches to muddy trails, with ease. Picture yourself gliding through the wilderness, surrounded by trees and birdsong, while the wind whips through your hair – it’s pure bliss.
What makes fatbiking truly unique is its versatility. It’s not just about riding for the sake of riding; it’s about combining your love for biking with your passion for fishing. Imagine this: you’re cruising along a quiet lakeshore, with your fishing rod strapped to your back and a tackle box nestled in your bike’s basket. You spot the perfect fishing spot, and without skipping a beat, you dismount your bike and cast your line. Talk about convenience!
But why choose fatbiking over a regular bike, you may ask? Well, my friend, it’s all about the ride. Those extra-wide tires I mentioned earlier? They provide the stability and grip you need to conquer any terrain. Whether you’re traversing bumpy forest trails or navigating rocky riverbanks, your fatbike’s got your back. With every pedal stroke, you can feel the rush of adrenaline as you ride off the beaten path, venturing into unexplored territory.
As you pedal along, surrounded by nature’s majesty, you’ll quickly realize that fatbiking is not just a means to an end – it’s an experience in itself. It’s a chance to immerse yourself in the great outdoors, inhaling the fresh air as you explore hidden nooks and crannies that few people have ever seen. And let me tell you, my friend, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of solitude and serenity that washes over you when you’re out there, with only the sound of your wheels on the dirt path.
But the true beauty of fatbiking lies in the combination of two passions: biking and fishing. As you glide from one fishing spot to another, you’ll have the opportunity to cast your line in diverse and remote locations. And trust me, when it comes to fishing, location is everything. With your trusty fatbike, you’ll have the freedom to explore new waters, find hidden gems, and reel in the catch of a lifetime.
So, my fellow adventurers, if you’re looking to elevate your fishing game while immersing yourself in nature, hop on a fatbike and hit the trails. The world is your oyster, just waiting to be explored. Embrace the freedom, embrace the adventure, and most importantly, embrace the love of a fish.
I have always been in awe of the giant trevally. It is a legendary fish in South African saltwater fly-fishing. The journey to reach the remote Maputaland hideouts where this elusive creature dwells is a challenge in itself. It feels almost impossible.
In the world of saltwater fly-fishing in Southern Africa, few can compare to the expertise and experience of Andy Coetzee. He is a pioneer in this realm and has honed his craft to perfection. Watching him in action, casting a purpose-tied baitfish pattern over the drop-off at Old Rocktail Bay, specifically targeting giant kingfish, is awe-inspiring.
However, not all fish in the saltwater are created equal. When it comes to fly fishing, some fish are more coveted than others. Their importance is determined by a combination of factors, including their strength, catch difficulty, and their location. The giant trevallys, also known as GTs, found in far-northern KwaZulu-Natal are a prime example of such fish. They check all the boxes and then some.
If you manage to bring a good-sized Maputaland GT to hand, without having to embark on an international fishing expedition, you’ve hit the jackpot. The tales of such triumphs are cherished and shared like whispered secrets among fishermen. Legends like the late Paul Weingartz, Arno van der Nest, and Ben Pretorius are often mentioned in connection with this feat. To be part of the elite 100 Club, a list of all those who have successfully caught regulation-sized GTs on a fly rod in South Africa, has become a dream for anyone passionate about the sport. It was this very goal that fueled my determination and desire to etch my name onto that list.
I also wanted to tell an incredible story of a battle for The Mission Fly magazine. They were the ones who planned this mission. But honestly, as someone who had never experienced a Geet (which is what fly-fishers call a GT), I would have been happy with catching and releasing a fish of any size on this trip. But before we could do that, we had to get to them. And we were going to do it on fatbikes…
When we arrived at Kosi Bay, it was that magical time in the morning when you’re not quite sure if it’s time to turn off your headlamp and let your eyes adjust to the natural light. Up ahead, the legendary fly-fisher Andy Coetzee was disappearing into the twilight. I could see his fatbike tracks in the sand, sometimes clear and sometimes fading as the tide washed in.
I was amazed by the way his track unfurled in front of me, perfectly following the contour of the challenging slope. He maneuvered with such skill, avoiding any unnecessary ups and downs.
When I saw Wikus van der Walt and Andy Coetzee effortlessly cycling along the beach, it made me realize just how inefficient I was. My bike track was all over the place as I struggled to find the firm patches of sand left by the retreating waves. It was pedal, pedal, crank up a slope, and then freewheel down a gentle incline. I was out of breath and had to repeat the cycle over and over again.
Even though I used to be an avid cyclist, my skills had definitely deteriorated. Despite my embarrassment, I took solace in the fact that there was nobody around to witness my lack of finesse. Riding a bike on a deserted beach in the early morning, on my way to a fishing spot, should have been an invigorating experience.
After a few exhausting minutes, I arrived at the bay where Andy was busy setting up his old 12-weight Loomis fly rod. Andy may be well into his sixties, but he’s as fit as a fiddle. There’s not an ounce of excess fat on his 1.9-meter frame. It’s worth mentioning that Andy and his buddy Tommo became famous for their hilarious book titled ‘Fly Fishing Yourself Single,’ which you can find on Amazon.
I love going on bike rides, especially in the beautiful and remote areas of the Wild Coast, Lesotho, and Mozambique. Exploring these places on two wheels is an incredible adventure, and I’m lucky enough to lead mountain-biking tours there. One time, just for fun, my twin brother and I decided to push ourselves and ride our fatbikes a whopping 500 kilometers from Pomene to Bilene. It was quite a challenge, but the thrill of the journey was totally worth it.
Today, I found myself in a different location: Old Rocktail Bay, which is also known as De Wet’s Baai on newer maps. We had set up camp at the cozy Gugulesizwe lodgings and used our fatbikes to explore the fishing spots nearby. Without our trusty bikes, we would have had to trek through the sandy terrain for hours. It was so much more convenient to zip around on our fatbikes, enjoying the scenery and reaching spots that would have been out of reach otherwise.
Back in the day, the seasoned rock-n-surf fishermen would have driven their sturdy Cruisers to get to Old Rocktail Bay. But we preferred the challenge and fun of using our fatbikes. It’s amazing how these bikes can take us to places that seem off-limits and provide unique experiences. I couldn’t ask for a better way to explore the stunning landscapes and hidden gems in this part of the world.
When I’m out fly-fishing, I like to use a line basket. It helps me cast my line smoothly and keeps it from getting stuck on the reef. I could go for a fancy, high-tech option, but I prefer to use a good old laundry basket.
The air around the reef in the early morning has a unique smell – a mix of saltwater and decay. It’s cooler than the ocean, but still refreshing. Andy, my fishing buddy, has a plan for when he passes away. His ashes are to be scattered right here on the reef during a spring tide, always at 4:30 in the afternoon. It’s a special spot for him.
As I slipped on my well-worn kit belt and grabbed a laundry basket (I prefer to use it instead of the fancy line trays made just for this), I couldn’t help but feel a surge of excitement. Today was the day I would conquer the reef edge and challenge those mighty GT brutes with my left-handed casts. This was our third fishing session of the trip, and the previous day had left us empty-handed after hours of casting at dawn and dusk.
Shoulder season, you know, that time when it’s not quite peak season but still a good time for ignobilis. I didn’t really care about the specifics leading up to the trip, I was just excited for the chance to bike and fish with a legendary angler. So, I tied way too many flies, did a ton of reading, and meticulously packed my gear and tackle, not caring about the weather forecast. But after two fishless sessions, even the most passionate angler can lose some of their enthusiasm.
The night before, Andy tried to boost our spirits by saying, “This place can easily give you mombakkies.” I hoped he was just using reverse psychology, trying to make us more excited. We certainly needed it, because even after trying countless flies over two long sessions, we still hadn’t caught anything.
“Man, fishing here is tough,” Andy sympathized with me after our first day. “You could spend two or three days in the surf zone and not even get a single bite. If you learn to fish here, you’ll know what hard work really means.” After acknowledging the challenge, Andy’s tone shifted to one of contemplation about the state of our oceans. “If we were here 15 years ago, we would have had a couple of big catches by now, and most likely missed a few more. But with the same conditions, at the same time of year… things have changed a lot. The ocean feels empty, like a ghost town. No baitfish, no schools of mullet. It’s like a barren desert out here.”
When I first came to Maputaland, it was during the Mozambican civil war. I was a parabat back then. But now, I have a different mission. Armed with a nature conservation degree and a deep understanding of the local flora and fauna, I am working alongside Rhodes University’s Ichthyology Department to improve fishing techniques.
My goal is to combine the best of both worlds – Western techniques and local knowledge. It’s about using fatbikes to access former 4×4 fishing haunts. It may sound unusual, but trust me, it works. Fatbikes give us the freedom to reach places that were previously inaccessible. We get to explore new territories while enjoying the thrill of a bike ride.
But fishing is not the only thing I do. I’m also passionate about free diving, especially when it comes to chasing monster fish. I’ve even been fortunate enough to work on video productions for international networks like The Smithsonian Channel. It’s an exhilarating experience, being able to capture these creatures on camera.
So, if you’re looking for an adventure that combines nature, fishing, and biking, you’ve come to the right place. Join me on a fatbike tour, and let’s explore the wonders of Maputaland together.
Alright, time to snap out of last night’s deep thinking and get down to business. Instead of using the heavy 12-weight fly rod I used yesterday (which is typically used for trout or yellowfish in the Vaal River), I decided to go with a more manageable nine-weight rod and an intermediate line that stays just below the surface. This would be better for dealing with the wind and shorebreak.
As I was making my way towards the drop-off, Wikus joined me. He had decided to walk the last part of the beach since he didn’t have cycling shorts or chafe cream. He tied on a small Crazy Charlie fly to imitate small crustaceans and started fishing from a rocky outcrop further down the beach. It didn’t take long for him to hook a small wave garrick, which he quickly released. The spell was broken.
I had a disappointing day of fishing. Even though I caught and released a big-eye kingfish, it didn’t bring me much satisfaction. I still had two more fishing sessions planned in the same area and then I was heading to Kosi Bay Mouth further up north. In the following days, we managed to catch some smaller fish called ‘rats’ and had fun catching wave garrick, big-eye kingfish, and yellow-spot kingfish. However, what I really wanted was to catch a Geet, even a small one, but it seemed like an impossible mission. We saw plenty of signs that Geet were around, but we never actually came across one or found any evidence. The only option left was to plan another trip. Maybe in March next year? What do you think, Andy?
Try It on a Fatbike
Hey there! Ever heard of a fatbike? It’s a super cool off-road bicycle with really big tires, like four to five inches wide. These fat tires make it possible to ride on all sorts of unusual terrain that regular bikes can’t handle, like sand, snow, and muddy paths.
Detour Trails is a company that organizes awesome fatbike adventures. They offer all kinds of exciting trips, like exploring the stunning Wild Coast, going on epic journeys to Mozambique, Lesotho, and Zimbabwe, or even creating a one-of-a-kind adventure just for you! The best part? They provide the bikes, so you don’t have to worry about a thing.
If you’re looking for something a little more unique, Detour Trails also offers tailor-made fatbiking and fly-fishing trips in Maputaland. It’s a specialized and niche experience that you won’t find just anywhere. And the price? It’s pretty amazing too – just R15,000 for six nights, and that includes everything you need for an unforgettable adventure. So, whether you’re an avid biker or someone who just loves exploring new places, Detour Trails has got you covered.
If you’re an adventure seeker like me, you’ll be thrilled to learn about some exciting travel options. For instance, there’s a thrilling three-night Bike & Battle experience that takes you across the battlefields of KZN. Or, if you prefer something more relaxing, you can take a leisurely ride up the beautiful beaches of Mozambique’s Machangulo Peninsula. During your trip, you’ll stay in luxurious accommodations and have the opportunity to go diving and fishing with experienced guides. All of this is available for just R45,000 per person. Visit detourtrails.co.za to find out more.
Plan Your Trip
Getting There
From Joburg: To start your journey, take the N2 through Pongola towards Mkuze. About 10km before reaching Mkuze, take a left turn to Jozini and cross the dam wall. After driving for 45km, you’ll come across a T-junction. Take a right turn towards Kwangwanase and continue for another 47km, passing Tembe Elephant Park, until you reach the entrance gate of Kosi Bay park.
Here’s how you can get to Kosi Bay, starting from Durban:
First, take the N2 north. It’s the road that will lead you towards your destination. After some time, you’ll come across Hluhluwe – that’s your cue to turn off and continue driving through town. Just keep going until the very last traffic circle. You’ll see signs along the way directing you towards Mbazwana/Sodwana Bay – just follow those.
About 87 kilometers later, you’ll see Mbazwana on your right. Don’t stop there – just keep going straight through the circles. Keep an eye out for signs that will lead you to the Coastal Forest Reserve.
After another 46 kilometers, you’ll reach a circle. This is where you turn right. Look for the sign that says KwaNgwanase/Kosi Bay. Once you spot it, you know you’re going in the right direction.
By following these simple directions, you’ll be well on your way to Kosi Bay!
So, there’s this saying in the fishing world – ‘match the hatch.’ It’s all about tying up a fly that looks just like the local baby fish, hoping it tricks a big fish into biting.
When’s the Best Time to Go?
If you’re looking to catch some kingfish on fly tackle, the perfect time is during the middle to end of summer.
What You Need to Know
If you want to fish, you’ll need a valid saltwater fishing license, which you can get for R76. You can find these licenses at any coastal post office. Just so you know, if you want to go to the Kosi Bay Mouth section of iSimangaliso Wetland Park between 6am and 6pm, you’ll need a permit. You can buy one for R60 per person at Utshwayelo Lodge, or if you’re driving, it’s R56 per vehicle. Now, for permits to fish at Black Rock, the Kosi Lakes, or for night fishing, you’ll need to get those from the Ezemvelo Kosi Bay camp office. Their number is 035-592-0236. Oh, and if you’re camping or cooking your own food, be sure to bring everything you need. The closest spot to get supplies is Manguzi, which is 24km away from Kosi Bay Mouth.
Welcome to Utshwayelo Kosi Mouth Lodge & Camp!
Hey there! I’m excited to tell you about my awesome getaway at Utshwayelo Kosi Mouth Lodge & Camp. Located in the stunning northeastern corner of South Africa, it’s the perfect spot for fishing enthusiasts like you and me. Trust me when I say, you won’t be disappointed!
Let me start by saying that this place is a fisherman’s dream. And guess what? It’s only 100 meters away from the Kosi Bay Mouth entrance gate, making it super convenient to access the fishing area. Plus, there are so many accommodation options to choose from!
Whether you prefer camping, a cozy furnished tent, or a charming two-sleeper chalet, they’ve got you covered. And let’s not forget about the delicious meals they offer. Want a quick breakfast? They’ve got you covered. Craving a full board experience? They’ve got that too!
When it comes to camping, prices start at just R220 per person, which is a steal if you ask me. If you’re looking for a little more comfort, you can opt for a furnished tent at R800 or treat yourself to a two-sleeper chalet for R1,150. You deserve a little luxury, right?
Whether you’re an experienced angler or a beginner, Utshwayelo Kosi Mouth Lodge & Camp is the perfect place for your fishing adventure. So pack your gear, grab your fishing buddies, and head over to this incredible spot. Trust me, you’ll have an amazing time!
In case you’re curious about the contact details, here they are: 082-909-3113. And if you want more information, check out their website at kosibay.info.
Welcome to Gugulesizwe Research Camp! This unique camp was created specifically for scientists, and its name reflects its origins. Nestled just a short walk away from Gugulesizwe Dive Camp, this exclusive-use retreat offers a tranquil getaway with all the amenities you need. With its four comfortable canvas and thatch rooms, fully-equipped kitchen, spacious open-plan chill area, and refreshing pool, you’ll have everything you require for a memorable stay.
At Gugulesizwe Research Camp, you can enjoy the privacy and seclusion that comes with an exclusive-use hideaway. It’s the perfect place to rest, relax, and reconnect with nature. The camp can accommodate up to eight guests and is priced at R8,000. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can explore the nearby Dive Camp as well, which offers shared accommodations starting at R950 per person.
Your comfort and satisfaction are our top priorities. To ensure a worry-free experience, full board is available for an additional R450 per person. So, whether you’re a scientist seeking a peaceful research environment or an adventurer looking for a unique place to stay, Gugulesizwe Research Camp has everything you need for an unforgettable experience.
To make a reservation or learn more about our offerings, please contact us at 064-536-3175. You can also visit our website at maputalandtravel.co.za. We look forward to welcoming you to our extraordinary camp!
Hey there! My name is Andy Coetzee, and I’m here to guide you on an incredible adventure in the Maputaland area. I speak the local Tonga language fluently, and I’m well-versed in the rich traditions and fascinating mythologies of this region.
Now, let me share with you some captivating words and photographs taken by Jazz Kuschke. Get ready to be amazed!