Is Etosha National Park Worth It?

So, you want to know if Etosha National Park in Namibia is worth a visit? Well, the answer is a bit complicated. There are pros and cons to consider. But before we get into that, brace yourself for a long and tedious drive. Trust me, though, it’ll be worth it.

Starting from the Khwai Community Development campsite (which I wrote about in my last blog) on the northern border of the Moremi Game Reserve in Botswana’s Okavango Delta, we took the gravel road south to Maun. It’s a wide road, mostly in good condition, so it’s not too bad.

I have to be honest with you—Maun isn’t exactly my favorite place in Africa. It’s dusty, full of goats and donkeys, and the campsites are overpriced. But, unfortunately, it’s a necessary pit stop when you’re heading in or out of the delta. After leaving Maun, we drove along the western side of the swamps near the panhandle.

So, here’s the thing – driving the panhandle can be a real drag. I mean, it’s a straight-up snoozefest, unless you’re really into donkeys or something. And let me tell you, there’s a whole lot of nothingness out there. When my buddy and I did it a few years back, we swore up and down that we’d never do it again. But, as luck would have it, we had some friends who were dead set on taking that route. And even though we were pretty reluctant, we decided to go along with it. I mean, it sort of fit our plans, so why not?

Now, I gotta say, the only saving grace of that whole trip was the sweet oasis called Drotsky’s Cabins. Seriously, it’s like a breath of fresh air. And the view from their deck? Absolutely killer. It looks out onto the Okavango, and let me tell you, it’s a sight for sore eyes. But here’s the kicker – there aren’t a whole lot of places to stop along the panhandle. Nope, it’s pretty slim pickings out there. So, if you’re driving that way, make sure you soak up all the goodness Drotsky’s has to offer. It’s worth it, trust me.

I decided to push forward and cross the border into Namibia near Shakawe. Once we arrived on the other side, we made a stop at Ngepi Camp. The camp is situated in a stunning location, with the river wider and less clogged with papyrus compared to Drotsky’s, offering an even better view.

Ngepi is an interesting and unique place, as I discovered in the latest edition of MzansiBride. It has a funky and laid-back atmosphere, with toilets built into trees, humorous signs, and a hippy vibe that promotes love and peace.

If I had to mention a small complaint about Ngepi, it would be that its beautiful grassy campsites are fenced off, making it impossible to drive a vehicle onto them. I would suggest to the management of Ngepi that while being laid back is great, it’s no longer the 1960s. Nowadays, many people have vehicles with roof tents, so it would be a nice addition to create a few graveled bays on each site where people can drive in and easily set up their tents on the grass.

Next stop on my journey to Etosha was the town of Rundu. It was a bustling place, with lots of chatter in Portuguese and colorful shop signs. While Rundu is an interesting place to visit, I didn’t feel like staying there for too long. Luckily, I found a peaceful camp called Samsitu, just a short drive along the river.

Continuing on, I passed through Grootfontein and finally arrived at Etosha. Let me tell you, I absolutely love this place! However, I have noticed that each time I visit, it becomes more expensive and crowded.

But on the positive side, the wildlife in Etosha is abundant and easy to spot, especially during the dry season. It’s fascinating to see the animals gathering around the waterholes, especially the incredible floodlit ones at Namutoni, Halali, and Okaukuejo camps.

During our time in the park, we were delighted to witness impressive encounters with lions, leopards, and vast herds of zebras and springboks in the open grasslands. It reminded me of our unforgettable trip to the Serengeti last year, where we were captivated by similar sightings of wildlife. In the evenings, we were treated to the presence of black rhinos at the camp waterholes, and we had the incredible experience of observing honey badgers fearlessly roaming the Halali camp during daylight hours.

An intriguing aspect of Etosha is how spacious and serene the park feels, despite the bustling campgrounds. Although Namutoni, Halali, and Okaukuejo are relatively small camps compared to those in Kruger, the Namibian Wildlife Resorts (NWR), the organization in charge of accommodations and bookings, knows how to accommodate a large number of visitors.

So here’s the deal: when it comes to camping in Etosha, the pricing can be a bit tricky. You see, they charge NAD400 for a campsite, and then an additional NAD100 per person. Now, if it’s just two of you, that’s NAD600 per night – quite a hefty price, isn’t it? But here’s the catch, my friend: if you’re part of a big group, like an overland tour, camping in Etosha suddenly becomes a smart choice.

Let me tell you about our first night at Namutoni Camp. It was cramped, to say the least. We had an overlander with about 20 people squeezed into one site right next to ours. They probably tried to book two sites, but alas, they weren’t quick enough. And let me tell you, my friend, it’s no easy task to keep the noise down when you have ten bell tents crammed into a space that can barely fit two caravans.

When I visited Halali’s campsite, I was struck by its unique charm. Unlike the other crowded campsites, Halali offered a more open and spacious environment. However, the constant wind and sand made it feel like a scene out of the Lawrence of Arabia movie. Thankfully, the presence of honey badgers added some excitement to the backdrop, making the experience bearable. What truly stole my heart was the swimming pool. It was large and inviting, providing the perfect escape from the heat. I found myself spending most of my time at Halali by the pool, enjoying the serene surroundings.

During our stay in Okaukuejo, we were fortunate enough to spend a night in one of the rondavels near the waterhole. The rondavel, known as a Waterhole Chalet, didn’t disappoint. It was located behind the Waterhole Luxury Chalets, offering glimpses of the waterhole rather than a full view. Although I would have loved a clearer vantage point, the glimpses were still captivating. The rondavel itself was cozy and comfortable, providing a peaceful retreat after a long day of exploration. As I settled in for the night, I couldn’t help but feel grateful for the unique experiences and beautiful surroundings that Namibia had to offer.

This is not your usual national park hut experience. These huts have been transformed into cozy game lodge suites, complete with vibrant ethnic fabrics and wall prints. You’ll find walk-in mosquito nets for a peaceful night’s sleep and convenient tea-and-coffee-making facilities. Plus, a delicious breakfast at the on-site restaurant is included in the price. Speaking of price, be prepared to pay NAD2000 per night for this upgraded experience. The only downside? These waterhole chalets don’t come with barbecue facilities, so you’ll have to join the hungry tourists at the restaurant buffet.

Now, let me tell you about our stay at the Etosha camps. They were neat and tidy, no complaints there. But oh my, they were packed with people! Each night, we witnessed a complete turnover of the camp’s population. It seems most visitors only spend one night here, and I can see why – the prices are quite high. Nonetheless, we made the most of our three-night stay.

Hey there! Let me tell you about my experience at Etosha National Park in Namibia. It’s not your typical park because they charge a daily entry fee on top of the accommodation prices. I was a bit surprised when I asked about a yearly Wild Card and the woman at the desk laughed. Apparently, they don’t offer any discounts for repeat visitors, even though they get tons of tourists.

Now, you might wonder if it’s worth it. Well, let me tell you, it absolutely is! Etosha is like no other place in southern Africa. The landscapes are stunning, with rocky deserts that stretch for miles. And the amount of wildlife you’ll see is incredible. Plus, there’s this huge white expanse in the middle of the park that’s just mesmerizing.

But here’s the thing – is it really worth the price you pay for a two-bed hut or sharing a room with twenty snoring backpackers? That’s the big question. If you’ve been to Etosha, I’d love to hear your thoughts on this.

If you’ve been I’m keen to hear your thoughts…

If you’ve been I’m keen to hear your thoughts…