Experience Adventure on the Wild Coast

Come along on an exciting and meaningful journey as we explore the untamed wonders of the Wild Coast, stretching from East London to the breathtaking landscapes of the rural Eastern Cape. Here, we’ll have the opportunity to discover the incredible work being done by Fair Trade establishments in this region.

Gathered together, with ice-cold beers in hand, we can marvel at the awe-inspiring view from the Coffee Bay viewpoint, where the sun gracefully sets over the vast expanse of the Indian Ocean.

As a child, I used to tightly shut my eyes whenever we ventured along the winding N2 road towards my grandmother’s homestead in Nqamakwe, nestled in the enchanting Amathole District of the Eastern Cape. According to my dear mother, my first sight of the perilous path leading to Butterworth ensued in a fit of cries and fear, fearing we would never return home. Fast forward 20 years, and here I am, now taking the helm behind the wheel on that very same road at sunrise, eagerly embarking on a thrilling adventure to uncover the deep connections between Fair Trade South Africa and the local tourism industry.

Hey there! Have you ever heard of Coffee Bay? It’s this amazing place in South Africa that’s known for its breathtaking natural beauty. Seriously, the sights there are absolutely stunning, like something out of a dream.

When you visit Coffee Bay, you’ll be treated to some of the most awe-inspiring landscapes you could ever imagine. From magnificent rolling hills to dramatic cliffs that tower over the ocean, this place is a paradise for nature lovers like you and me.

But it’s not just the scenery that makes Coffee Bay special. The local culture is rich and vibrant, with a warmth and friendliness that you won’t find anywhere else. The people there are incredibly welcoming, and you’ll feel like a part of the community from the moment you arrive.

One of the best things about Coffee Bay is the wide range of activities available. Whether you’re into hiking, surfing, horseback riding, or just relaxing on the beach, there’s something for everyone. You can explore hidden caves, go on a breathtaking coastal hike, or simply soak up the sun and take in the beauty of your surroundings.

But what really sets Coffee Bay apart is its sense of adventure. This is a place where you can let go and embrace the unknown. Whether you’re exploring the stunning Wild Coast, swimming in cascading waterfalls, or gazing up at the stars on a clear night, there’s always something new and exciting to discover.

So, if you’re looking for a truly unique and unforgettable travel experience, Coffee Bay should be at the top of your list. Trust me, once you visit this magical place, you’ll never want to leave.

As I drove through Qunu, the village where Mandela grew up, I couldn’t help but feel amazed. The road seemed to stretch on forever, with potholes slowing me down along the way. But despite the obstacles, the weather was pleasant and there were only a few cars on the road. The beautiful scenery made it all worthwhile – green hills dotted with turquoise rondavels as far as the eye could see.

In the past year, many of these villages have been given access to fresh water and electricity for the first time. It’s a huge milestone for these communities who have lived without these basic necessities for so long.

Most people who visit the Wild Coast tend to find a spot and stay there. The access to different places can be tricky, and it’s easy to get lost once you veer off the main road. However, I had come here to truly experience the Xhosa heartland and reconnect with a simpler way of life. I knew that the communities would welcome my visit with open arms.

In Coffee Bay, there are many fantastic places to watch the sunset, but this particular spot offers an incredible view of the Indian Ocean. It’s one of my favorite places to unwind and take in the beauty of nature. The image captured by Ondela Mlandu perfectly captures the serene atmosphere.

Life in Coffee Bay revolves around farming and livestock. The people here rely on these activities for their livelihoods. However, the growth of tourism has had a positive impact on the villages, providing new opportunities for the locals to thrive. Despite many residents having only a basic education, their collaboration with lodges and backpackers has instilled a sense of pride and independence within the community.

During my visit, my first stop was Bulungula Lodge, which was established by Dave Martin in 2004. Today, the Nqileni community fully owns and manages the lodge. The accommodation consists of traditional Xhosa huts sprawled across a hillside overlooking the mouth of the Xhora River. The lodge seamlessly blends with the neighboring village, reflecting a sense of unity. There are no fences or locked doors, making it feel safe and welcoming.

My time in Coffee Bay was spent immersing myself in the community. I enjoyed chatting with the locals and gaining insight into their daily lives. One highlight was visiting the ‘mamas’ of the community who run the Women Power Project. As a guest, I had the opportunity to contribute by working in the maize field, making mud bricks, and even fetching water from the river. It was a way for me to connect with the community and contribute to their ongoing projects. I also had a chance to meet Mkhuseli Mdibanto, who took me fishing along the beautiful coastline. His fishing techniques were passed down from his father, making it a truly authentic experience.

The Wild Coast is a vibrant and lively place, filled with beautiful beaches, stunning waterfalls, and famous landmarks. It’s an area that is known for its colorful and diverse population, which adds to the unique charm of the region.

After experiencing the beauty of the rural areas, I decided to visit Coffee Bay, a popular destination for travelers. Getting there was an adventure in itself, with winding roads that led me through hills and past roaming cattle and goats. These animals were quite stubborn and didn’t seem to care about moving out of the way for vehicles. At one point, I even had to slam on my brakes because a herd of animals was blocking the road like supermodels on a runway. I honked my horn, but they simply refused to budge. Luckily, a passing truck came to the rescue, hooting its horn and scattering the animals as it sped by.

The Coffee Shack in Coffee Bay is a special place that was created by David Malherbe, an avid traveler and surfer. It’s no surprise that surfing is a big part of the culture here, and Coffee Bay is a fantastic spot to learn. What sets the Coffee Shack apart is that the local community has a 30% stake in the backpacking business, and many residents have found employment there. Nomandla Gxakatha, a manager at the Coffee Shack, has been with the company for an impressive 16 years. She told me that the staff at the Coffee Shack are encouraged to travel and explore the world outside of their village. In fact, she was given the opportunity to travel to Zimbabwe, Malawi, and Zambia for a whole month, with all expenses covered by the company. While she was away, the Coffee Shack made sure her family was taken care of back home.

Coffee Bay itself is the closest thing you’ll find to a town in these parts. It’s also the gateway to a famous landmark that attracts many visitors to the area: Hole in the Wall, a remarkable rock formation that is truly a sight to behold.

I had the incredible opportunity to explore the beautiful seaside villages of the rural Transkei region, known as the Wild Coast. I embarked on a three-hour hike with fellow travelers from Canada, England, and Taiwan. The initial part of the journey was quite challenging, as we encountered steep hills along the way. Despite the physical exertion, the breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean from the cliffs where cattle and goats grazed made it all worthwhile.

During a short break, I found a quiet spot on a rock to rest and catch my breath. As I sat there, marveling at the scenery, a local mama from the village passed me by with ease. It was evident that she traversed this trail effortlessly on a daily basis. Her resilience and familiarity with the route inspired me to push forward.

Finally, I arrived at my destination: Hole in the Wall. This natural wonder left me in awe. To top it off, our guide prepared a delicious cheese-and-tomato toastie over an open fire. The combination of the stunning surroundings and satisfying meal made the entire adventure even more unforgettable.

Exploring the Wild Coast and experiencing its wonders firsthand reminded me of the beauty and resilience of nature, as well as the importance of embracing new challenges. It was a journey filled with both physical exertion and moments of tranquility, creating a perfect balance that made the entire experience truly magical.

The Wild Coast is an incredible 250 kilometer stretch of coastline that runs from East London to the KwaZulu Natal border. It’s filled with breathtaking scenery and rugged beauty.

Recently, I had the opportunity to explore a pair of lodges located on opposite sides of the Mdumbi River in the northeast region. To get there, I had to venture inland before turning back towards the coast. Instead of relying on GPS, I decided to ask the locals for directions. They advised me to take the first left on the Mdumbi gravel road after passing the police station. In this area, the GPS can be unreliable, so it’s best to trust the knowledge of the people who know the area best. Along the way, I was captivated by the stunning hills and occasionally came across small roadside stores. The moment I caught a whiff of the sea, I knew I was getting closer.

When it comes to hiking in Coffee Bay, no matter where you choose to explore, you’ll be treated to incredible views. The beauty of the landscape is truly awe-inspiring.

When I stayed at Mdumbi Backpackers, I couldn’t believe how close it was to the beach. It’s just a short walk away, and let me tell you, that beach is a paradise for surfers. I met a group of enthusiastic Aussies who had come all the way here to ride the waves in this secluded corner of the world. You know what’s really cool? The community actually owns 50 percent of the backpackers’ business, and the locals are the ones running all the activities. Even the surfing lessons are taught by someone from the area, a guy named Machi Gebegana.

I also had the chance to visit the Mdumbi Education Centre, and let me tell you, it’s a great place to be. They welcome visitors with open arms, and you can spend time reading to or playing with the children. It’s such a heartwarming experience to see how much they appreciate the attention and love interacting with visitors.

Now, let’s talk about the incredible rock formations you’ll find at the Hole in the Wall. These formations are a testament to the power of Mother Nature. It’s truly mind-boggling how she can create such breathtakingly beautiful landscapes. Trust me, the images you’ll see there will stay with you forever.

When I visited the village, I had the chance to get my hands dirty in the gardens alongside the other guests. One of the highlights of my trip was the meals at Mdumbi Restaurant. We all sat at a long communal table, which created an incredible atmosphere for engaging in conversations with people from all over the world. The only downside was that it took over an hour to get to Swell Eco Lodge from Mdumbi Backpackers, despite being just across the river. The journey was slower due to the cows on the road and the many potholes, but I quickly learned that patience was essential.

Swell Eco Lodge, perched on a hillside, was unlike any other place I had stayed at during my trip. It had a more modern and upscale vibe, and the property was enclosed by a fence with a security gate. My rondavel, with a view of the sea, had a traditional exterior but surprised me with its chandeliers, artwork, and en-suite shower. The lodge is owned by Justin and Leigh-Ann Saunders, who have been a part of the community for the past eight years. Their journey wasn’t easy, as they had to negotiate with the local chief and headman to secure the land for their business. Once granted permission, the Saunders family was warmly welcomed with a celebration. While the local community doesn’t own a stake in Swell Eco Lodge, they own the land, and the lodge owners prioritize uplifting the community. Quarterly meetings with the village committee are held to discuss ways to provide support and assistance. It became evident to me that hospitality, ubuntu, and a sense of community play a vital role on the Wild Coast. When you are so isolated from the rest of the world, it becomes crucial to help and support one another.

On my last morning at the lodge, I allowed myself to sleep in a little. There was no rush to return to the city. Spending a few days living a simpler life reminded me of the importance of appreciating the basics. It felt incredibly satisfying to know that the money I spent on this privilege was also helping to improve the lives of others.

Where Your Money Makes a Difference

When I stay at lodges, I know that my money goes towards important causes like education, community upliftment, and health. These lodges really go above and beyond. They offer scholarships and school feeding programs to help children in need. They even improve local clinics and train people in crafting skills. Not only that, but they also provide clean drinking water, run daily hospital trips, and support prizes for children who participate in sports teams.

What’s even more incredible is that three of these lodges – Bulungula, Coffee Shack, and Mdumbi – are part of the Fair Trade Travel Pass scheme. If you’re looking for a reputable place to start your journey, Buccaneers in Cintsa is another Fair Trade establishment. And if you want to expand your adventure, you can visit the Drakensberg and stay at Sani Lodge Backpackers, which is one of South Africa’s oldest Fair Trade-accredited lodges (you can read more about it at getaway.co.za).

With Fair Trade, you can trust that your money is making a positive impact. They prioritize eco-friendly and socially responsible practices, ensuring that your contribution is used for the greater good.

Image by Ondela Mlandu

A Journey to Remember

Get ready for an incredible adventure! I’m about to take you through a step-by-step guide on how to get from East London to Bulungula and then on to Coffee Bay. Buckle up, it’s going to be a thrilling ride!

Day 1 & 2: East London to Bulungula

Distance: 278km

Allow: 5 hours

First up, we need to head out of East London and hit the road. Hop onto the N2 and keep going past Idutywa and Butterworth. One little thing to bear in mind: there are some roadworks near Mthatha, so keep an eye out for any detours. Just before you reach Mthatha, you’ll spot a turnoff for Coffee Bay. Take that turn and continue driving for 50km.

Next, you’ll want to make a right turn when you see the sign for Zithulele Mission Hospital. Keep going for about 16.5km until you reach another sign, this time pointing you in the direction of Bulungula. Take a right here and follow the dirt road for another 9km. It’s important to ignore the left turn after 5km, so keep your eyes on the road.

Once you spot the face-brick school on your left, you know you’re on the right track. Keep driving for 4km until you reach a T-junction. Take a left turn here and continue for another 1km. At this point, you’ll come across a shop with a big wall. Take a left turn and keep going for 1km. Look out for the signs pointing you towards Bulungula Lodge. Oh, and if it’s rainy, stick to a 4×4 vehicle to be on the safe side.

Day 3 & 4: Bulungula to Coffee Bay

Distance: 56km

Ready for the next leg of our journey? It’s time to leave Bulungula behind and make our way to Coffee Bay. The distance you’ll be covering is about 56km.

Now that you’re all set to leave, hit the road and enjoy the scenic drive. Remember to take in the beautiful views along the way. It’s all part of the experience!

By following these simple directions, you’ll be able to navigate your way from East London to Bulungula and then on to Coffee Bay. Get ready to embark on a memorable adventure you won’t soon forget!

Allow yourself 2 hours for this adventure.

Start your day off right with a delicious pancake breakfast before you hit the road. You can choose to go back the way you came on the N2 and head towards Mthatha. Look out for the Coffee Bay/Mqanduli exit and take that route. Alternatively, you can take a shorter, more scenic route – just ask the friendly staff at the lodge for directions.

When you reach Coffee Bay, keep going until you see the police station. Once you pass it, continue until you reach the end of the road. Cross the bridge and you’ll find yourself at Coffee Shack backpackers.

While you’re in Coffee Bay, I highly recommend visiting the Ikhaya Labantwana Montessori school. It’s a great opportunity to learn and connect with the local community. And if you’re up for some adventure, don’t miss the chance to hike to the famous Hole in the Wall or explore the Mapuzi Caves and Cliffs. These natural wonders will leave you breathless!

Day 5 & 6: Coffee Bay to Mdumbi River

Distance: 53km

Allow: 2 hours for this leg of the journey.

So, here’s how to find your way to the amazing Mdumbi Beach and Swell Eco Lodge from Coffee Bay. When you’re leaving Coffee Bay and heading towards Mthata, you’ll want to take the second right turn onto a gravel road. You’ll know you’re on the right path when you cross the Mthatha River.

Keep going straight until you reach a T-Junction. Don’t worry, there’s a signboard there to guide you to Mdumbi Backpackers and Swell Eco. Take a left turn and start following the dirt road. It’s about 10 kilometers long, and along the way, you’ll pass a little spaza shop on your left.

Make sure you time your trip right and get to Mdumbi Beach in time for a beautiful sunset. Trust me, it’s worth it!

If you need to cross the river to get to Swell Eco Lodge, just go back to the T-junction and retrace your route. This time, take a right turn and drive for about 7.6 kilometers until you see the sign for Swell Eco. Once you see it, turn right and stay on the road for another 4.3 kilometers. Keep an eye out for a fork in the road and make sure you keep to the right.

Keep following the road for about 600 meters and then take the second left turn. From there, it’s just a 2.7-kilometer drive until you arrive at the stunning Swell Eco Lodge.

So, pack up your things and get ready for an incredible adventure in Coffee Bay and Mdumbi Beach. Don’t miss out on the chance to stay at Swell Eco Lodge and experience the beauty of this place for yourself!

Image by Ondela Mlandu

Directory

Hey there! Let me tell you about two amazing places you can stay at during your trip.

First up, we have Bulungula Lodge. It’s a really cool place with traditional Xhosa rondavels. There are 10 of them in total – 5 dorms and 5 private rooms. Plus, they even have tents on platforms in the coastal forest. The bathroom facilities are shared, but don’t worry, they’re nice and clean. If you’re feeling hungry, you can choose to have meals there. Breakfast is about R30 and dinner costs around R80. But if you like, you can also bring your own food and cook for yourself. The prices for the rooms start at R480 for two people, and the tents are a bit cheaper at R450 for two. You can give them a call at 0475778900 to book.

Next, let me tell you about something really special that happens at Bulungula Lodge. Every Wednesday morning, you can have pancakes with coffee or tea while watching the sun rise on a beautiful dune. It’s a magical experience! If you’re traveling with a big group, you can even request this treat on other days. Just make sure to book in advance. Give them a call at 0475778900 to secure your spot.

3. Coffee Shack Backpackers is a fantastic place to hang out and meet new people. They have a cool bar and restaurant called Babalaza, where you can grab a meal for as little as R25. On Sundays, they even offer a free dinner! If you’re into surfing, they also offer affordable lessons for just R60. This includes a wetsuit and a board, so you don’t have to worry about bringing your own gear. The accommodation options here are great too. You can choose between rondavels, which are located near the Bomvu stream, or private en-suite rooms. The rondavels are a bit quieter and cost R450 for two people, with shared bathrooms. The en-suite rooms cost R560 for two people. If you prefer to cook your own meals, they also have self-catering facilities available. Give them a call at 0475752048 to book your stay.

4. Ikhaya Labantwana Montessori School is an amazing place that started with just 15 children in a small rondavel. Today, they have grown to accommodate 60 children. If you’re planning to visit Coffee Shack, make sure to bring some stationery to donate to the school. Coffee Shack even offers a shuttle on Thursdays for guests who want to visit the school as part of their Mapuzi Caves and Cliffs tour. It’s a great way to give back to the community and see the incredible work being done at the school. If you’re interested in visiting, give them a call at 0827053408.

5. Hole in the Wall. What an amazing day hike! It’s nine kilometers there and back. You might see cows, goats, and even dolphins and whales if it’s the right season. If you go with a guide from Coffee Shack for R100 per person, they’ll take care of lunch and provide a shuttle back to the backpackers. Give them a call at 0475752048!

6. Mapuzi Caves and Cliffs. This hike will take you about two hours round trip. Inside the cave, there’s a natural rock bath that’s just like a Jacuzzi, filled with warm seawater. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can also jump off the 14-meter-high cliff into a rock pool. All the local backpackers offer trips to this spot, but the cheapest option is going with Coffee Shack for just R100 per person.

Hey there, I’m excited to share with you two incredible places that you’ll absolutely love! Let’s start with Mdumbi Backpackers.

Located right by the sea, this place is a dream come true. You’ll be blown away by the stunning views and the soothing sound of the waves. And guess what? There’s even an onsite cafe where you can enjoy delicious meals. But here’s the best part – the staff will point you in the direction of a local shebeen for drinks. How cool is that?

Now, let me tell you about some of the awesome features at Mdumbi Backpackers. They have a view tower where you can have the most magical sundowners while taking in the breathtaking surroundings. And if you’re in the mood for some peace and tranquility, there’s a private deck nestled in the forest that will make you feel like you’re in your own little paradise. And hey, for all the movie buffs out there, they also have a cozy movie lounge where you can kick back and enjoy some flicks.

When it comes to accommodation, Mdumbi Backpackers has got you covered. They offer rondavel rooms for just R380 for two people. These rooms are cozy and comfortable, providing the perfect sanctuary after a day of adventure. If you prefer something a bit more adventurous, you can opt for their safari tents, which are only R360 for two people. How amazing is that?

And here’s an added bonus – if you’re someone who likes to have a bit of control over your meals, you’ll be happy to know that self-catering is possible at Mdumbi Backpackers. So you can whip up your own delicious creations whenever you feel like it.

Now, let’s move on to Mdumbi Beach. Brace yourself for a true slice of paradise.

Imagine a place that is secluded, charming, and surrounded by beautiful milkwood trees. That’s exactly what you’ll find at Mdumbi Beach. This hidden gem is a true delight for the senses, and let me tell you – it’s one of the loveliest beaches I’ve ever been to.

But wait, there’s more! Mdumbi Beach is a popular spot for surfers from all around the world. So if you’ve ever wanted to ride the waves, this is your chance. You can rent surfboards for just R80 or even take lessons for R100. How awesome is that?

So there you have it, my friend. Two incredible places that will make your heart skip a beat. Whether you choose Mdumbi Backpackers or Mdumbi Beach, you’re in for an unforgettable experience. So pack your bags, grab your sunscreen, and get ready for an adventure of a lifetime!

When I visited Mdumbi River, I was blown away by its beauty. The drive from Mdumbi Backpackers to Swell Eco Lodge is the perfect way to take in the stunning view of the river. I made sure to time my drive for late afternoon, so I could capture the sunlight glistening over the water and snap an epic selfie.

Swell Eco Lodge offers fantastic day trips to fully enjoy the river. There are different options to choose from, like horseback riding or kayaking, with prices starting at R750 per person. If you prefer a more chilled-out experience, you can also go on a fishing excursion for R500 per person.

When I arrived at Swell Eco Lodge, I was impressed by the unique accommodation they offer. Each of the eight rondavels has two units that share a fully equipped kitchen. It’s perfect for groups or families who want to prepare their own meals. The units also come with a braai area and a deck that offers breathtaking sea views.

Although Swell Eco Lodge doesn’t have a restaurant, they have a convenient small shop where you can buy basic supplies. I found it helpful to have everything I needed right there. Plus, they have recently added a fabulous new pool deck, which is a great spot to unwind and soak up the sun (just keep in mind that it’s a bit of a walk to the beach).

If you’re considering a visit to Mdumbi River and Swell Eco Lodge, I highly recommend it. The experience is truly one-of-a-kind, and the prices start at R450 per person. If you’re interested, you can contact them at 0849433947. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!

Words and images by Ondela Mlandu