Discovering the Fascinating Makgadikgadi

I recently had the incredible opportunity to explore the majestic wonders of the Makgadikgadi. Let me take you on a journey through this mesmerizing destination, where ancient history and breathtaking landscapes intertwine to create a truly unforgettable experience.

Imagine standing in the heart of the Kalahari Desert, surrounded by vast salt pans that stretch as far as the eye can see. The Makgadikgadi, a series of salt pans in Botswana, is one of the largest salt flats in the world, spanning over 6,000 square kilometers. These shimmering expanses are remnants of what was once a great superlake, teeming with life thousands of years ago.

As I gazed out across the never-ending expanse of salt, my mind was filled with wonder and curiosity. How did this extraordinary landscape come to be? What secrets does it hold? As I delved deeper into the history of the Makgadikgadi, I discovered a rich tapestry of ancient ecosystems and extinct wildlife that once thrived in this unique environment.

The Makgadikgadi is not just a salt pan; it is an ecosystem that supports a diverse array of flora and fauna. In the wet season, after the rains have transformed the parched earth, the pans become a temporary home for an impressive range of migratory birds. Flamingos, pelicans, and other water birds flock to the flooded plains, creating a spectacle of color and sound.

But it is not just the birdlife that captivates visitors. The Makgadikgadi is also home to a variety of animal species that have adapted to its harsh conditions. You may spot a pride of lions resting in the shade of a thorny bush, or come across a herd of zebras making their way across the vast open plains. The elusive brown hyena and the endangered African wild dog also call this region their home.

Exploring the Makgadikgadi is like stepping back in time. In addition to its natural wonders, the area is also rich in cultural heritage. The indigenous people, known as the San Bushmen, have lived in this region for thousands of years. Their ancient traditions and deep connection to the land provide a fascinating insight into the human history that is intertwined with the natural history of the Makgadikgadi.

Whether you are a nature enthusiast, a history buff, or simply seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure, the Makgadikgadi has something for everyone. Its raw beauty and untouched wilderness offer a unique opportunity to connect with the natural world and escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life.

So, if you are looking for an extraordinary journey that will leave you in awe of the wonders of our planet, I encourage you to delve deeper into the Makgadikgadi. Uncover its mysteries, immerse yourself in its beauty, and let this ancient land ignite your curiosity and awe.

When I think of Botswana, I think of sun, salt, sand, and stone. These iconic elements, coupled with the diverse birdlife and the spectacular wildebeest migration, make Botswana’s pans a destination like no other. But there’s so much more to discover beyond these well-known attractions.

Let me take you on a personal journey through this mesmerizing country, where the landscape truly comes alive.

When I first set foot in Botswana, I was immediately captivated by the sense of wonder and beauty that surrounded me. The vast open space, stretching out as far as the eye could see, made me feel small and insignificant in the grand scheme of things. It was a humbling experience.

One of the key highlights of my trip was witnessing the world’s second-largest wildebeest migration. The sight of thousands of wildebeest running together, their hooves pounding the ground, was a sight to behold. It was a reminder of the incredible power and resilience of nature.

But it wasn’t just the wildlife that left me in awe. The pans themselves were a spectacle to behold. The glistening salt flats, shimmering under the blazing African sun, were a photographer’s dream. I spent hours exploring the intricate patterns and textures created by the salt crystals, each one a unique work of art.

And then there were the birds. Botswana is home to a staggering number of bird species, many of which can be found in and around the pans. From the vibrant pink hues of the flamingos to the majestic flights of the African fish eagle, the birdlife here is truly extraordinary. I found myself constantly reaching for my camera, trying to capture the grace and beauty of these feathered creatures.

But it wasn’t just the visual treats that made my trip memorable. It was the people I met along the way, their warmth and hospitality touching my heart. The locals shared their stories and traditions with me, giving me a deeper understanding of the rich cultural heritage that is an integral part of Botswana.

As I look back on my journey through Botswana’s pans, I am filled with a sense of gratitude and wonder. The experience was a reminder of the incredible diversity and beauty that our planet has to offer. It was a reminder to cherish and protect the natural wonders that surround us.

If you’re looking for a truly unique and awe-inspiring travel destination, I wholeheartedly recommend exploring the pans of Botswana. Whether you’re a nature lover, a photography enthusiast, or simply someone who craves adventure, this captivating country has something to offer everyone.

So pack your bags, grab your camera, and get ready to embark on an unforgettable journey through the pans of Botswana. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.

Words Grahame McLeod Photos Grahame McLeod & Melanie van Zyl

Back in 1988, something incredible happened in Botswana. The Nata Bird Sanctuary was born. It was the first-ever community project in the entire country. Can you believe it? I sure couldn’t!

Let me tell you a story. Picture this: I was driving my trusty 4×4 through the wild, untamed wilderness of Botswana. But suddenly, disaster struck. My car got stuck in the muckiest, stickiest mud you can imagine. It felt like we were trapped in quicksand. I tried everything to get out – I pushed down hard on the gas pedal, but nothing happened. All four wheels were completely stuck.

Now, let me set the scene. The Botswana Bird Club had organized a special trip to the edge of Sowa Pan. We were there to see all kinds of stunning bird species frolicking in the water. Just picture it – pink flamingoes, massive white pelicans, avocets, spoonbills, stilts – I couldn’t believe my eyes!

Anyway, back to my stuck car. We were in quite a pickle, to say the least. But luckily, we had a lifesaver – a length of rope and some good old-fashioned elbow grease. With all hands on deck, we managed to free the Hilux from the clutches of that stubborn mud. Finally, we were back in business!

After getting unstuck, we went right back to enjoying the beauty of the sanctuary. We grabbed our binoculars and scopes and started bird-watching to our heart’s content. It was an unforgettable experience.

When I think of Lekhubu Island at dawn, I am transported to a captivating scene of scraggly baobabs stretching their branches towards the sky, surrounded by vast salt pans that sparkle in the early morning light.

A few years back, I had the great pleasure of working alongside Dr. Graham McCulloch, an ornithologist from Ireland. He was conducting a fascinating study on the ecology of the pans, as well as the feeding habits and migratory patterns of flamingoes. The findings of his research shed light on these incredible birds’ journeys. Did you know that flamingoes fly all the way from various wetlands in South Africa, Mozambique, and Walvis Bay in Namibia to breed in the Makgadikgadi Pans? It’s truly remarkable.

Out of all the breeding sites for flamingoes in Africa, the pans are ranked as the second-most significant. It’s a testament to the importance of this unique place. And here’s another fascinating tidbit – Sowa Pan is one of the few areas where the elusive lesser flamingo chooses to nest. It’s like a hidden paradise for these stunning creatures.

When I went on bird research trips, I couldn’t help but be amazed by the termites. Even though they are tiny creatures, they create impressive structures that really stand out. These structures, called termite mounds, are like towering buildings in the grasslands. They can be as tall as five or six meters, which is mind-blowing considering the size of the termites themselves. The mounds are so unique that locals rely on them as landmarks.

Baobabs on Lekhubu Island.

Look at the mounds on the pans, they lean towards the west. It’s like nature’s version of the leaning Tower of Pisa. Many theories try to explain why this happens. One idea is that it’s a way to shield themselves from the strong winds blowing from the east. Other animals near the pans also find ways to protect themselves. For example, white-browed sparrow weavers build their nests on the western side of trees. Another possible reason is that when the sun shines down on the western side of a termite mound, the soil dries up quickly and shrinks, causing the mound to curve towards the west.

When I think of pans, I imagine vast stretches of sand and grasslands extending as far as the eye can see. However, I discovered something even more captivating on my recent journey to the southern edge of Sowa Pan. In Makgaba village, just off the Francistown–Orapa road, I had the pleasure of meeting Andries Kruger, the South African owner of Moriti wa Selemo Camp.

Kruger is a true jack-of-all-trades. He began his career as a diesel mechanic at the nearby Debswana Letlhakane diamond mine. From there, he transitioned into testing the local clay deposits to determine their suitability for brick-making. Additionally, Kruger has developed a passion for catching snakes. Nowadays, he manages the lodge and oversees the operation of a zipline and a fleet of quad bikes for excursions onto Sowa Pan.

Have you ever seen a flamboyance of flamingos? It’s a sight to behold!

Recently, my friend Andries took me to a special place where I stumbled upon a fascinating discovery. As we approached, I noticed what appeared to be tree trunks scattered on the ground. However, upon closer inspection, I was astounded to find that these “tree trunks” were actually made of solid stone! Can you believe it?

It turns out that this area was once a lush forest, around 280 million years ago. The climate was much wetter back then, and these forests were thriving. However, as time passed, the trees eventually died off and fell to the ground. Over millions of years, layer upon layer of sand buried the fallen trees.

But here’s where things get truly remarkable. Silica-rich fluids seeped through the sand, gradually replacing the organic wood with minerals. This extraordinary process is called petrification. So, what was once living and breathing wood transformed into solid stone! Incredible, isn’t it?

Now, what’s fascinating is that petrified wood can take on various colors. If you stumble upon a piece that is black, it means there’s an abundance of manganese present. On the other hand, the presence of iron oxides gives the petrified wood a beautiful reddish-brown hue. Nature really knows how to create stunning works of art!

The sight of these petrified tree trunks lying there, frozen in time, made me ponder the wonders of our planet. It’s mind-boggling to think about how the world has changed over millions of years and how hidden treasures like these wait to be discovered. It just goes to show that our Earth has endless surprises up its sleeve!

The next day, we drove on rough roads to the southern edge of Sowa Pan, near Mosu village. Behind the village, there stood an impressive wall of rock, topped with thick layers of hard white calcrete. Long ago, this wall was a line of cliffs where the waves from the massive Makgadikgadi lake crashed against. These waves deposited rounded pebbles, forming beautiful beaches. But the lake dried up about 10,000 years ago, leaving behind a sticky, grey clay that makes up the pans we see today.

During a later trip to Lekhubu Island in the southwest corner of Sowa Pan, I noticed a huge number of pebbles at the highest point of the island, near the survey beacon. The presence of these white pebbles told me that the lake must have been incredibly deep – at least 30 meters!

When I think about Bailey’s, it’s incredible to consider that it was one of the earliest stores ever erected in Rakops. I can’t help but wonder what it was like back then, when the town was still finding its place.

Something else that amazes me is how rainwater on the escarpment is never wasted. It travels through the sandstone below and emerges as fresh springs at the base. It’s fascinating to think about the journey it takes, transforming into these precious sources of water. One of these springs, Unikae Spring in Mosu, never runs dry. Around these springs, you’ll find these beautiful palm groves teeming with life.

And the palms themselves are truly something to behold. The most common species is called the real fan palm or Hyphaene petersiana. They have these fan-shaped leaves that are simply stunning, and their fruits look like little cricket balls. But have you ever wondered how these palms came to be here in the first place?

According to botanists, they suggest that elephants played a vital role in spreading the seeds of these palms over long distances. It’s hard to imagine elephants roaming these lands now, especially with the unreliable water situation. But in the past, when there was an ancient lake, there were most likely large herds living here. It’s incredible how nature works, isn’t it?

Today, these palms have become valuable resources for the people of Rakops. They can tap into the real fan palms and collect the white sap, which can be turned into a potent firewater known as palm wine. The process involves cutting the stem just above the ground level and allowing the sap to drip into a container through a funnel. It’s amazing how something as simple as a palm can provide both beauty and sustenance for the community.

I found myself standing in awe at the sight of flooded Sowa Pan. The panoramic view of the landscape was simply breathtaking. As I ventured outside Mosu, my curiosity led me to embark on a journey to the top of the escarpment. There, I discovered remarkable stone-walled enclosures, standing up to two meters tall. Among the ruins, I marveled at the remnants of hut floors, adorned with fragments of ancient pottery.

Today, the pans are sparsely populated due to the semi-arid climate. However, it was not always this way. Centuries ago, Sowa Pan served as the western boundary of the magnificent Great Zimbabwe nation. Spanning from approximately 1200 to 1450 AD, this empire was a testament to the greatness of its people. The king himself resided in an awe-inspiring citadel near present-day Masvingo in Zimbabwe.

During the reign of the Great Zimbabwe nation, district governors established their own residences on towering hilltops, much like the one I stood upon near Mosu. These elevated structures not only provided a sense of security, but they also offered a strategic vantage point to oversee the surrounding land. As I explored further, I encountered another similar site near Mea village, nestled beside Tlapana Hill.

During my recent journey along the Nata-Kasane road, I couldn’t help but notice a series of makeshift shelters lining the roadside. These humble abodes are inhabited by a thriving community of grass harvesters, mostly women, armed with nothing more than simple tools like scythes. It’s a seasonal occupation that takes place during the winter months when the grasses are in full bloom and producing seeds. The act of cutting and collecting grass holds immense significance for the locals, as they sell it to create brooms or thatch huts. Interestingly, the primary customers for this grass are the various lodges and guest houses in the area, and you’ll often witness their trucks being loaded up with fresh thatch right along this very road.

Once upon a time, there were stone ruins perched on the escarpment above Sowa Pan. These ruins used to be homes for people who didn’t quite belong to the Great Zimbabwe nation. It’s fascinating how these remnants from the past can still be seen today!

Two years ago, I had the opportunity to visit Rakops village on the Boteti River. This place is special because when the river is full, it pours its water into Ntwetwe Pan. The village itself is a bustling mix of small shops, general stores, and street vendors. But interestingly enough, there are also big trading stores that were built many years ago, back in the colonial times. One of these noteworthy stores is called R. A. Bailey’s store. This establishment was created by a trader named Robert Bailey, who arrived in the Bechuanaland Protectorate during the late 1800s.

At this store, the locals could buy a variety of goods like weapons, blankets, and clothes. In return, they would use their cattle as a form of payment. The cattle were then taken to Palapye and shipped by train to slaughterhouses in the Transvaal region. Some cattle had to face a long and treacherous journey north through lion-filled lands until they reached Kazungula, located on the Zambezi River. There, the cattle swam across the river and were subsequently transported by rail to the Northern Rhodesian Copperbelt to feed the hardworking miners.

Being a resident of Botswana, I’ve learned the importance of exploring off the usual path during my regular visits to the Makgadikgadi. It’s only when you venture away from the popular spots that you can really experience the true essence of a place. If I hadn’t discovered Mosu, I would have continued to see the pans as nothing more than a flat and monotonous landscape.

The graceful zebra, Botswana’s beloved creature, roams the grassy plains surrounding Sowa Pan. It’s a majestic sight to behold.

Now, let’s explore how we study the eating habits of a bird that can fly. It’s quite an interesting challenge. First, we must catch the bird. This involves venturing into the waters of Sowa Pan and driving posts into the ground. With the help of nylon lines and loops, we create a clever system to snag the birds by their feet. Once captured, we carefully weigh them and measure the size of their wings. To examine their diet, we even insert small plastic tubes into their stomachs to collect food samples. By analyzing these samples, we can pinpoint the types of algae they eat and compare them to the algae found in the pan waters. Dr. Graham McCulloch goes a step further by tagging the birds and attaching radio transmitters to track their migratory journeys.

It’s a intricate process, but it yields important insights into the lives of these fascinating creatures.

Trip Planner

Getting There

If you’re coming from Johannesburg, it’s about 880km away, and you’ll be traveling on paved roads until you reach Nata – the entrance to the pans. The Tlokweng (near Gaborone) and Martin’s Drift border posts are the most convenient options for South Africans like us.

Where to Stay

Nata Lodge

Just 9km from Nata, you’ll find Nata Lodge – a place many people love to stay. It offers a variety of accommodations such as campsites surrounded by palm trees and knobthorns, safari tents, and chalets. Visit underonebotswanasky.com for more information.

Have you ever seen those huge termite mounds that tower over the flat grasslands? They’re like massive landmarks, standing tall and proud.

Welcome to Maya Guest Inn!

Picture this: you’re relaxing under the shade of palm trees, right by the Nata River in Nata. That’s exactly what you’ll experience at Maya Guest Inn.

Introducing Planet Baobab!

Imagine being surrounded by a beautiful grove of baobab trees, just 5km away from Gweta. That’s what you’ll find at Planet Baobab, where they offer cozy campsites and traditional Kalanga chalets for two.

Gweta Lodge

Gweta Lodge, located in the heart of Gweta, offers both camping and chalet accommodations. Whether you prefer to sleep under the stars or enjoy the comfort of a cozy chalet, Gweta Lodge has something for everyone.

Boteti River Camp

Conveniently located in Khumaga village, Boteti River Camp is the perfect base for exploring the wonders of the Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. With a choice of eight campsites or rooms designed for two, you can tailor your stay to suit your preferences.

Moriti wa Selemo

Hey there! Have you ever wondered what it’s like to drive onto the crusted salty Sowa Pan when it’s not flooded? It’s quite an experience!

So, when should you go?

The best time to visit is during the dry winter season when the weather is cooler. It’s also easier to spot wildlife!

Here’s what you need to know:

During the summer rains, the tracks around the pans quickly become waterlogged and impossible to pass through. That’s why I recommend using a 4×4 vehicle. It’s also a good idea to travel with more than one vehicle, just in case. And don’t forget to take everything you need with you – food, water, and fuel.

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