Exploring the Kalahari Red Dune Route: Where Culture Meets Nature

Have you ever heard of the Kalahari Red Dune Route? It’s an incredible journey that takes you through the mesmerizing landscapes of the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. This awe-inspiring conservation area straddles the borders of Namibia and Botswana, making it one of the largest protected spaces on our planet.

But what makes this route truly special is that it’s not just about nature – it’s also about culture. Open Africa, a remarkable social enterprise, has created this route to offer travelers like you an authentic experience while supporting local businesses. Last month, I had the incredible opportunity to embark on this self-drive adventure, and let me tell you, it was beyond my wildest dreams!

The Mysterious Allure of the Red Dunes

During our morning walk with the guide, we had the opportunity to observe something fascinating – the tracks in the dunes, also known as the ‘Kalahari News.’ It was truly a captivating experience.

After doing some research, I discovered an interesting fact about the color of the dunes in this region. It turns out that the high iron oxide content in the sand is responsible for their unique hue. In places where rainfall is more abundant or where water collects in shallow areas, the iron oxide is gradually washed away, resulting in white sand. This leaching process is what gives rise to the vibrant array of colors in the desert sand. It’s truly a sight to behold.

Endless roads and vast skies

As I basked in the freedom of the open road, I couldn’t help but feel awestruck by the sheer vastness of the surroundings. The sky seemed to stretch out endlessly, and the sense of space was truly exhilarating. It was a moment of pure joy and wonder.

My adventure began when my friends and I boarded a late-night flight from Cape Town to Upington, which we booked through Flight Centre Canal Walk. Once we landed, we collected our rental car from Hertz and set off without realizing that there wouldn’t be any shops for the next 300 kilometers. (Note: Remember to stock up on water and snacks in Upington!)

As we drove north, the landscape started to transform. It was a vast expanse of endless blue skies and open spaces. There wasn’t much to see, but that’s what made it so incredible. The road was quiet and deserted, with only a few passing vehicles. The sociable weaver birds’ gigantic nests, which occupied the trees and electricity poles, were the only signs of life. These amazing colonies housed up to 50 chambers and as many as 300 birds.

So, my journey started at Molopo Lodge, which was an easy two-hour drive from the airport. Let me tell you, the road to the Kgalagadi is a real thrill for all those speed enthusiasts out there! In fact, in 2015, they’re going to try and break the world landspeed record on the Hakskeen Pan in the Northern Cape. Pretty exciting, huh?

The Kalahari is scattered with salt pans, and they are a magnificent sight to behold. You can find them all over the place. I managed to get a stunning photo of one taken by Yann Macherez – it’s truly remarkable.

Now, let me tell you about Tannie Koera’s Farm Kitchen.

As we were on our way to Molopo, we stumbled upon a sign for Tannie Koera’s Farm Kitchen. We were parched and desperate for some water, so we thought, why not stop by? And let me tell you, we made the right decision. Tannie Koera greeted us with open arms, inviting us into her charming little farm kitchen. She offered us a much-needed drink of water, and we were so grateful for her hospitality.

Yann, my buddy and the guy who takes awesome pictures, was like a kid in a candy store when we got to the Kalahari. He was snapping portraits left and right because the people there are so friendly and photogenic. We met this sweet lady named Tannie Koera who told us all about her kitchen and the yummy traditional food she makes. We had a blast talking to her, even though her English was just as good as my Afrikaans!

Once we got settled in our cabins at Molopo Lodge, we knew it was time for a nap. The Kalahari heat can be brutal, especially in the middle of the day. Molopo Lodge has a bunch of different places to stay, from tents and campsites to fancy bungalows. We chose these cute little tented cabins with decks and outdoor showers. They even have a restaurant that serves all kinds of game dishes.

Now let’s talk about experiencing ‡Khomani San culture. It’s like nothing I’ve ever seen before.

When I went on a bush walk with Auche Raats of the San Living Museum, I was in for a real adventure. Auche Raats taught me the basics of bushcraft, using skills that have been passed down through the generations. It was like stepping back in time and discovering the ancient secrets of the ‡Khomani San culture.

After a refreshing siesta, we were ready to learn more about the unique ‡Khomani San culture at the Living Museum. Auche Raats, our knowledgeable guide, took us on a bush walk where he shared his wisdom and experience. He showed us how to track animals and hunt, just like his ancestors did. It was fascinating to learn about the different medicinal plants and their uses.

Exploring the Kalahari trails

At Kalahari Trails, I had the chance to meet Toto the meerkat. It was an incredible experience to get up close and personal with such an adorable creature. I couldn’t help but marvel at the wonders of the natural world.

The next day, I woke up bright and early for a morning walk with Kalahari Trails. I was excited to meet Toto, the adorable meerkat that had been rescued. As soon as I saw him, I couldn’t help but fall in love. Toto was the friendliest little creature, and he quickly took a liking to me. He sat on my feet and even climbed onto my shoulders for a cuddle. I couldn’t help but giggle as his tiny claws tickled my neck.

After spending some time playing with Toto, our guide Andre Labuschaigne led us on a walk through the dunes. It was fascinating to learn about the different tracks left by insects and animals. We even stumbled upon the tracks of an elusive aardvark. I couldn’t help but hope that we would get to see one in person.

Once our walk was over, we had the pleasure of chatting with Professor Anne Rasa, the owner of Kalahari Trails. She was incredibly welcoming and knowledgeable. Professor Rasa has dedicated the past 20 years to studying the behavior and biology of desert animals. She entertained us with captivating stories about meerkats and her work in the Kalahari desert. I was truly mesmerized by her passion and expertise.

After our walk, we were so hungry. We decided to have brunch at the nearby Kgalagadi Lodge, where they served us a huge farm-style breakfast! If you’re bringing your own food, this is also a great place to stock up on supplies.

Now it was time for us to go to !Xaus Lodge and drive along the 90 dune road. We felt completely connected to nature at !Xaus Lodge.

But first, we needed to enter the Kgalagadi Park. We stopped to get gas at Twee Rivieren camp, which is right at the park entrance. From there, we drove about 60km to the Kamqua picnic site, which is where we were meeting for the !Xaus Lodge. On our drive, we saw wildebeest, ostriches, springbok, and eland. We parked our little Hertz rental car at the site and packed our bags into the lodge’s 4×4 vehicle. Our guide, Koos, drove us while the other guests followed us in their own 4x4s. We were surrounded by the vibrant red sand of the park.

So, here’s the thing. Me and my crew decided to take on this wild road trip down the 90 dune road to !Xaus Lodge. Let me tell you, it was an adrenaline rush from start to finish. We were cruising along, wishing we had our own 4×4 to conquer the 30km single-track sand road. It looked like a blast!

Now, fair warning: if you get motion sickness easily, you might wanna pop some anti-nausea meds before you attempt this road. It’s a real rollercoaster!

But let me tell you, once we arrived at !Xaus Lodge, all the wild rides were totally worth it. The manager welcomed us with open arms and made us feel right at home. This place is something else, I swear. It’s a luxury lodge nestled on a dune, with no fences and the most amazing view of a massive pan. Our rooms? Oh boy, they were these awesome wooden cabins with private decks that gave us the most breathtaking view of the pan. Just picture it.

Now, don’t go expecting cellphone reception or WiFi here. This place is off the grid, way off. It’s like you’re in the middle of nowhere, and it’s pretty darn awesome if you ask me. You’ll be completely unplugged!

When I went to the Kgalagadi Park, I was blown away by the beauty of nature. The red dunes contrasting with the white salt pans and the vast expanse of stars in the sky created a breathtaking scene. It was unlike anything I had seen in other South African parks. The dry and semi-arid landscapes, with their moon-like appearance, added to the sense of wonder.

During my time in the park, I was lucky enough to spot various animals. Birds of prey soared through the sky, cheetahs and hyenas roamed the land, and bat-eared foxes and yellow mongooses scurried about. The only creature that seemed to elude me was the Kalahari lion, but that just made the experience all the more adventurous.

One particular moment that stood out for me was when I woke up before sunrise. As I stepped outside of the lodge, I was greeted by the incredible sight of two cheetahs gracefully making their way across the salt pan. It was a truly magical moment that I will never forget.

Gemsbok at Kgalagadi Park. Photo by Yann Macherez.

I’m excited to share with you my experience at the lodge! They offer fantastic activities like morning walks, game drives, and even night drives. But what caught my attention the most was the on-site Bushman Craft Village. It’s a place where local youth showcase their traditional crafts to tourists, earning some extra income. I must admit, though, that the setup felt a bit staged. Nevertheless, it’s essential to keep these ancient crafts alive and flourishing.

Have you heard about !Xaus Lodge? It’s not your typical establishment because it’s owned by the ‡Khomani San and Mier communities and managed by Transfrontier Parks Destinations. This lodge aims to empower the local communities by providing employment opportunities, especially in areas where unemployment is a significant problem. The best part is that the lodge is accredited by Fair Trade Tourism and practices sustainable tourism, which is fantastic news for the environment and the community.

So, if you’re looking for a unique retreat that goes beyond the ordinary, !Xaus Lodge is definitely worth considering. By choosing to stay here, you not only enjoy unforgettable experiences but also support the local communities and contribute to sustainable tourism.

Hey there! I’m Habu, a 19-year-old from the local community who works at !Xaus Lodge. In addition to my job, I also attend veldskool, where I learn ancient bush craft from the wise elders. They teach me how to survive in the bush and create beautiful handicrafts, just like the bushmen have been doing for generations. It’s truly a treasure trove of knowledge that we must preserve.

Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m not totally disconnected from the modern world. I have a cellphone, and like any other young man, I have aspirations and dreams. But I also recognize the immense value of my heritage. It’s like a map that guides me through life and connects me to my ancestors.

On our last day of the trip, we hopped on the rollercoaster-like shuttle that took us back along the 90-dune road. Once we got our car, we embarked on a two-hour self-drive adventure through the park before making our way back to Upington. Saying goodbye to the Kalahari was bittersweet, but I felt blessed to have witnessed its breathtaking natural beauty and rich cultural heritage. I can’t wait to return and unravel more stories that the land holds within.

Barbara Raats and her uncle from the ‡Khomani San community always manage to bring a smile to my face. It’s amazing how laughter can connect people from different backgrounds and cultures. I had the pleasure of spending time with them and experiencing firsthand the joy that comes from sharing lighthearted moments together.

Laughter has a unique way of breaking down barriers and bridging gaps between individuals. It’s a universal language that everyone understands, regardless of where they come from or what language they speak. When you laugh with someone, you create a bond that transcends words and allows you to connect on a deeper level.

There’s something magical about the way laughter can instantly lift your spirits and bring a sense of warmth and happiness to any situation. It’s like a contagious energy that spreads from person to person, lighting up the room and creating a positive atmosphere.

In today’s fast-paced world, filled with stress and constant busyness, it’s easy to forget the importance of laughter. We get so caught up in our daily responsibilities and worries that we often neglect this simple yet powerful source of joy. But laughter is a natural remedy that can heal both the mind and body.

When someone makes you laugh, it’s not just a temporary escape from your worries. It’s a moment of pure bliss that allows you to let go of your troubles and simply enjoy the present moment. It’s a reminder that life is meant to be lived joyfully, and that laughter is an essential part of that experience.

If you’re feeling stressed or overwhelmed, take a moment to pause and find something that makes you laugh. It could be a funny video, a silly joke, or even a spontaneous giggle with a loved one. Allow yourself to be fully present in that moment and let the laughter wash over you.

By following Barbara Raats and her uncle’s example, I’ve learned the power of laughter in building connections and finding happiness. It’s a small yet significant reminder that laughter is not just a luxury, but a necessity in our lives. So embrace the laughter, cherish those lighthearted moments, and let them bring more joy and love into your life.

If you want to join me on more adventures, be sure to visit my website, Mzansi Girl.

If you want to join me on more adventures, be sure to visit my website, Mzansi Girl.