Hooked on the Fluke: A Guide to Hermanus

Progress may not always be charming, even in coastal towns like Hermanus. What happens when a former fishing village turned vacation destination jumps on the whale-watching bandwagon?

Keep in mind that the prices provided are simply guidelines. While accurate at the time of my visit, they are subject to change at the discretion of the owners. Please confirm with each establishment before making any bookings.

This peaceful blend of sea and fynbos initially captivated visitors to Hermanus’ stunning shoreline. Today, despite all the changes, it has managed to retain an air of tranquility.

I’m sitting comfortably in a corner of Hemingways Bookstore on Marine Drive, here in Hermanus. It’s a stormy day, rain is pouring down as if carried by an invisible bus with sharp pins attached to its front. Outside, the waves are crashing into the rocks near the old harbor. The weather has chased everyone indoors; it seems like nature rules the town today. But I don’t mind; I have found refuge in this cozy bookstore.

Hemingways Bookstore in Hermanus is a special place. As I look around, I can’t help but notice the first editions of famous books like Stevenson’s Treasure Island, Shakespeare’s The Tempest, and Hemingway’s The Old Man and the Sea displayed in a glass bookcase. I’m not reading any of these classics, though. Instead, I’m flipping through a more recent addition to the collection: a coffee-table book called Hermanus by Beth Hunt. I pause for a moment and take in the charm of this bookstore. It’s not like your ordinary chain store. Here, everything is just a little bit different. Postcards, paintings, old typewriters, and porcelain figurines adorn the shelves alongside the books. Among the figurines, you’ll find a plump burlesque dancer, a red-bearded poet, and a group of serious-looking ladies. These quirky characters add color to the already vibrant atmosphere. Stepping outside, though, the town of Hermanus doesn’t quite match the quirkiness of the bookstore. It’s a modern town with concrete buildings, franchises, and supermarkets dominating the scene. The old charm of the fishing village that was discovered by a Dutch shepherd long ago seems to have faded away. Even the Old Harbor, once the center of the village, is now empty and abandoned, with its cement cleaning tables waiting idly and a few lonely boats resting on the ground. If the weather keeps up, I worry that I won’t be able to explore much of this town either.

I wake up the next morning and sunlight is streaming into my room at Birkenhead House and Villa. It feels like a helicopter searchlight is focused directly on me. The beautiful fynbos plants that border the bay are illuminated by the morning sun. I had intended to wake up at sunrise, as all good photographers do, but during the night, my bed seemed to devour me whole.

I run downstairs and hurry along the narrow path that cuts through the fynbos, staying close to the rocky shoreline. But soon, my pace slows to a leisurely stroll. Cliff Path stretches for 10 kilometers, snaking its way from Klein River Lagoon through the town center to the larger harbor on the other side. It’s an absolutely stunning walk. Along the path, you’ll find benches that offer a perfect view of the bay, and tempting side trails that lead you closer to the sea, where the shore is frothy with foam. The fynbos bushes are dense, exuding a sweet and potent fragrance in the bright sunlight. The air feels so fresh and invigorating. The locals even call it “Champagne air.” In fact, not too long ago, London’s top doctors saw Hermanus as a place of healing and recommended it to patients in need of rest and recovery.

When I walk along the western side of Hermanus, I can’t help but notice the jagged rocks that create stunning viewpoints to watch whales. It’s amazing how it attracts so many people, especially foreigners, who are all searching for one thing: their first encounter with a humpback whale.

Every year, from June to October, southern rights and humpbacks leave the icy Antarctic behind, making their way to warmer waters to give birth and find a mate. And for them, this bay in Hermanus is a paradise. The gentle, sandy bottom invites them to come and have a soothing belly rub, while the kelp beds just beyond the shore become their playground, resembling enormous water hammocks.

I can’t help but be amazed by the information boards that line the path here. They serve as a reminder of just how important whales are to this place. It only takes a few steps to realize how incredible these creatures truly are. I watch in wonder as they spyhop, surf, and breach in the distance. And as I explore the town, I can’t help but notice the statues of whale tails that emerge from the brick walkways, resembling the tips of massive icebergs.

When it comes to the restaurants around Village Square, they make it clear who their main customers are. It’s no secret that this town is all about whale-watching. For five whole months, visitors flock to Hermanus, filling up these restaurants to the brim. It’s no wonder that Hermanus is now the fastest-growing town in the Overberg region. Everybody wants a taste of the whale-watching action.

Yesterday, I read a quote in Hermanus that struck a chord with me. It was written by JO Rowe, the editor of the Hermanus News way back in 1949. He said, “I really hope that Hermanus doesn’t turn into a place filled with casinos and glitzy establishments. I don’t want towering buildings blocking the beautiful coastline, or blinding concrete streets reflecting the scorching sun…” Interestingly enough, it seems like Hermanus has become that “special place” despite not being geographically suited for it.

And as I settle in for the night, I can’t help but wonder if the popularity of whale watching has taken away some of the charm that made Hermanus special in the first place. It’s a question that lingers in my mind.

When I woke up the next day, there was a refreshing breeze blowing through town. It felt different somehow. As I strolled along the streets, I couldn’t help but notice a new store overflowing with colorful tie-dye T-shirts and scarves. It seemed to appear out of nowhere, as if it had always been there, waiting for me to discover it.

As I continued my walk, the royal-blue street poles caught my attention. They stood tall and proud, almost as if they were curious about the world around them. The vendors in Market Square greeted me with warm smiles as I passed by, making me feel like a part of their close-knit community.

Just around the corner on Marine Drive, the Rossouw Modern Art Gallery had set up a display outside. I couldn’t resist taking a closer look. Among the various pieces of artwork, one in particular caught my eye. It depicted a young fisherman wearing a vibrant yellow hat, his face adorned with a mischievous grin. Beside the artwork, there was a line of text that read, “’n Mooi dag het buite gewag’ – a beautiful day was waiting outside.

I couldn’t help but smile as I saw my reflection in a nearby window. It was as if the vibrant energy of the town had infected me, filling me with joy and a newfound appreciation for the beauty that surrounded me.

I stroll down a path covered in crispy stones, passing by hidden art galleries and hanging plants. As I make my way to Westcliff, a suburb on the western side of town, I notice a couple sitting on a bench, completely absorbed in gazing out at the sea. I’m not quite sure when it happened, but as I settle down on the grass next to the boardwalk that leads to a natural rock pool filled with seagulls and foamy waves, I realize that there’s nowhere else I’d rather be than here, right now.

Hermanus may be a modern and growing seaside resort. It may lack quaintness or old-fashioned charm, but it will never lose its allure. You see, that charm doesn’t reside in the buildings; it hangs thick in the air over the bay every evening and whispers through every morning breeze.

Now, let me tell you some of the things you can do in Hermanus.

1. Take a scenic drive up Rotary Way – It’s a must-see attraction in Hermanus. The road winds its way up the mountainside, offering breathtaking views of the town and the magnificent coastline. Trust me, this is a view you don’t want to miss.

2. Embark on a whale-watching adventure – Hermanus is famous for its whale-watching opportunities, especially during the months of June to December when the Southern Right Whales come to the area to breed. Hop on a boat tour or try your luck spotting these majestic creatures from the shore.

3. Wander along the Cliff Path – Lace up your walking shoes and explore the Cliff Path, a 12-kilometer trail that hugs the coastline. Not only will you be treated to stunning ocean views, but you might also catch a glimpse of some dolphins frolicking in the waves.

4. Explore the Hemel-en-Aarde Wine Route – Wine lovers, this one’s for you! Follow the Hemel-en-Aarde Wine Route and discover the region’s award-winning wineries. Taste a variety of exquisite wines and soak in the beautiful vineyard landscapes along the way.

5. Indulge in fresh seafood – Being a coastal town, Hermanus is known for its delectable seafood. Treat yourself to a seafood feast at one of the many local restaurants, where you can savor the flavors of the ocean.

So, if you’re looking for a destination that combines natural beauty, adventure, and a touch of seaside charm, give Hermanus a try. Trust me, once you experience its allure, you won’t want to leave.

Let’s start with a breathtaking view of Walker Bay from above. You can hike through Fernkloof Nature Reserve, which now includes most of the fynbos-rich areas around Hermanus. Feeling a bit lazy? No worries, you can also drive to Rotary Way. Just go about four kilometers out of town towards Cape Town and turn right at the “Rotary Way” sign. The road is narrow, so keep an eye out for other cars.

2. Come and See the SA Shark Conservancy

Hidden in the old harbor, you’ll find the South African Shark Conservancy. The red-roofed building is all about preserving our marine resources. You can get up close to the young sharks they have, like pyjama and leopard sharks, and learn more about these misunderstood marine predators. And the best part? It’s free!

Contact: Give them a call at 028 312 3029 or visit their website, www.sharkconservancy.org.

Watch Whales Up Close on a Boat

From June to November, Walker Bay becomes a safe space for whales, meaning only licensed operators can approach them within 50 meters. Now, you have the chance to embark on a thrilling two-hour boat cruise with Southern Right Charters. It’s your opportunity to get up close and personal with these magnificent creatures, the largest mammals on our planet. Brace yourself for unexpected surprises as their curiosity may bring them even closer to you than you expected. No matter the weather, boats depart daily from New Harbour. During peak season, make sure to book in advance. The cost is R650.

Contact: Give them a call at 082 353 0550 or visit www.southernrightcharters.co.za for more information.

Where to Enjoy Tasty Meals in Hermanus

1. Bientang’s Cave

Picture this: you’re at Bientang’s Cave in Hermanus, savoring delicious seafood right by the ocean.

You won’t find a place closer to the sea than Bientangs Cave. It’s actually built inside a cave by the old harbor. If you’re in the mood for a delicious seafood curry, you can enjoy it on one of the wooden benches outside. Take a walk along the rocks afterward, but be careful of the waves – you might get soaked!

For more information, you can contact them at Tel 028 312 3454 or visit their website www.bientangscave.com.

Next up is Tipples Bar and Grill. This place is perfect if you’re looking to have a great time without breaking the bank. The staff is super friendly, and they have nightly specials like half-price pizzas. Tipples knows how to deliver a fantastic night out.

To get in touch, you can reach them at Tel 028 313 0377 or visit their website www.tipples.co.za.

Last but not least, we have Lemon Butta. This spot is known for its mouthwatering dishes. Whether you’re craving seafood or something else, Lemon Butta has got you covered. The flavors are unforgettable, and you’ll keep coming back for more.

If you want to learn more, give them a call at Tel 123 456 789 or check out their website www.lemonbutta.com.

If you’re in the mood for some delicious seafood and a stunning view, Lemon Butta is the place to be. Located in Village Square, this modern and cozy restaurant offers top-grade seafood and excellent service, all while providing a mesmerizing view of the ocean. You won’t want to miss their sesame-crusted tuna or their mouthwatering salmon dishes. Be sure to make a reservation in advance to secure a spot by the window.

For any inquiries or to make a reservation, you can contact Lemon Butta at Tel: 028 312 3611 or visit their website at www.lemonbutta.co.za.

Now, onto accommodations in Hermanus. Whether you’re looking for a quality bed and breakfast, a holiday home, a self-catering option, or even a backpackers’ hostel, Hermanus has it all. To truly make the most of your stay here, I strongly recommend opting for a place with a view of the sea. Luckily, I have two fantastic options that meet this criteria:

1. Birkenhead House and Villa:

This luxurious and beautiful establishment offers a variety of amenities and services to ensure a memorable stay. Located by the sea, it offers breathtaking views and a tranquil atmosphere. Whether you choose to stay in the main house or the villa, a comfortable and enjoyable experience is guaranteed.

On a little cliff to the east of town, I discovered Birkenhead House and Villa. It’s an excellent option for those who want a luxurious and serene place to stay. If you’re looking to be amazed, then you’re in for a treat at Birkenhead House and Villa. It’s like a bomb made of luxury, covered in velvet. Set on the rocks with a view of Voelklip Beach, this fancy accommodation is decorated with elegant French furniture and beautiful artwork. You can even walk directly from the hotel to the beach. The rooms are spacious and full of surprises, and the beds are so comfortable they’ll engulf you. In addition to the amazing accommodations, you’ll also have access to our delicious four-course dinners, refreshing cocktails on the deck, and our attentive staff who will take care of your every need. The price starts from R3 100 per person per night, which includes full board and drinks – yes, even alcoholic ones. If you’d like to get in touch, you can reach us at Tel 028 314 8000 or visit our website www.birkenheadhouse.com.

Now, let’s move on to our next destination, the Abalone Guest Lodge.

Peeking out from behind a strip of fynbos that separates it from the sea, Abalone Guest Lodge feels like it was always meant to be there. The furniture is painted white and there are pops of bright blue throughout, giving it a really beachy vibe. What’s really great about this place is that it’s raised up and there’s lots of outdoor space – perfect for whale-watching without ever having to leave. Plus, there’s a gate at the bottom of the property that leads right to the Cliff Path. You can stay in a standard room at the B&B for R705 per person per night when you’re sharing, and they even throw in a complimentary glass of wine to sweeten the deal.

Contact: To get in touch with them, you can call 028 312 3744 or visit their website at www.abalonelodge.co.za.

How to Get to Hermanus

Hermanus is just a 90-minute drive from Cape Town, and most of the journey is on the N2. If you have a little extra time, I recommend taking the scenic route along the R44 starting from Gordon’s Bay – it’s totally worth it!