Breaking Bread: Discover the Wonders of Buckwheat

Hey there! I’ve got a fascinating story to share with you about a type of bread that’s unlike any other. Imagine a bread that isn’t exactly your typical bread. Sounds intriguing, right? Well, let me tell you all about buckwheat!

You know, I used to be a bread hater. I blame it on those neverending days of eating white bread with peanut butter. It wasn’t the most exciting culinary experience, to say the least. And when you’re all about watching calories, bread just doesn’t cut it. It never made me feel full, and certainly didn’t help with slimming down. No wonder I wasn’t a fan!

The rejection came immediately, triggered by a strong gut feeling that something was off. Little did I know that our daily bread had undergone a dramatic transformation several years before I was even born. For thousands of years, we had been making dense breads with just a few simple ingredients, allowing them to naturally ferment for a whole day. However, in 1961, the Chorleywood Bread Process (CBP) was introduced, and it changed everything.

The CBP boasted the ability to produce a soft and fluffy loaf in a matter of hours, thanks to its mechanical high-speed mixing. But this convenience came at a cost. The CBP required the use of numerous additives, including twice the amount of yeast and salt, extra gluten, hard fats, and so-called “flour improvers” like chlorine dioxide and acetone peroxide. These chemicals served to bleach and speed up the bread-making process. Emulsifiers were added to stabilize and strengthen the loaf, while preservatives like calcium propionate and L-cysteine hydrochloride (derived from human hair, in some cases) were used to extend its shelf life.

In a society that values convenience and affordability above all else, the CBP was hailed as an industrial triumph. However, its impact on our nutrition was nothing short of disastrous.

It wasn’t because of nutrition that they rejected me. “Eat less so you can drink more” became my motto as I grimaced at my thighs. Then I met Tom Hannam, a tall, curly-haired man who won me over with a perfectly cooked duck breast, accompanied by a tangy berry sauce and fluffy celeriac mash. As my waistline expanded, so did my curiosity. I started trying new foods that I never thought I’d enjoy, and I began questioning the things I used to like. Driving past the windowless barns of a Rainbow Chicken farm – the source of cheap, cruel meat that sustained me through university – made me physically sick. Why hadn’t I paid attention to where my food came from? Marrying a food enthusiast wasn’t enough; it was becoming a mom to a baby with multiple allergies that really opened my eyes. When everything she ate was homemade, her health drastically improved.

In the summer of 2017, I found myself in an exciting place. You see, I had just been honored with a prestigious award for my mouthwatering knäckebröd. It was a delightful surprise, as I had taught myself the art of making this delicious Swedish bread after a memorable trip to the land of the midnight sun.

But this award was just the beginning of my culinary journey. Always eager to push the boundaries of my creations and cater to the needs of those with dietary restrictions, I decided to delve into the world of gluten-free baking.

And that’s when I discovered the wonder of buckwheat seeds.

Let me tell you why these little seeds are so fascinating. Buckwheat seeds are not only gluten-free but also rich in plant proteins and nutrients. In fact, they have been used for centuries in traditional medicine to promote good digestion and reduce inflammation.

Now, you might be wondering what makes buckwheat seeds so special. Well, it’s their unique ability to mimic the qualities of grains without actually being one. They are like the chameleons of the seed world, able to transform into a wide range of textures and flavors.

But it doesn’t stop there. Buckwheat seeds are also incredibly versatile in the kitchen. You can use them in a variety of recipes, from bread and pancakes to porridge and salads. The possibilities are truly endless.

If you’re looking to elevate your gluten-free baking game or simply want to try something new and nutritious, I highly recommend giving buckwheat seeds a try. Trust me, they won’t disappoint.

When I soak the seeds in water, something amazing happens – they become slimy and sticky, which means I don’t need to add anything to hold them together. I grind them up with some fresh water, along with sesame seeds, flax seeds, sunflower seeds, and a little bit of salt. Then, I let the mixture ferment in a warm room for a day and a night. It’s like magic – the mixture rises and transforms into a beautiful loaf with a caramel-colored crust and lots of seeds dotted throughout. I can’t resist slicing off a piece and spreading it with butter. It’s so satisfying and nourishing. And when I toast it, the flavors become even nuttier, and the texture is incredibly crisp and crunchy. I’ve never had bread quite like this before, and now I’m completely hooked!

The next time I have a dinner party, I decide to share this amazing bread with my guests. I toast thin slices and serve them with cheese. One of my friends, who happens to own a breakfast café, is so impressed that they place an order for six loaves! Word spreads quickly, and soon we have a whole WhatsApp group dedicated to discussing this new “Hannam bread”.

Guess what? I got a call from my friend Ommi at the amazing Olive Branch Deli, and he told me something exciting – apparently, Tom is making a gluten-free bread that tastes absolutely out of this world! It’s so good that customers are already asking Olive Branch to ring them up as soon as it’s available.

Tom goes around the vegetable tent at the Oranjezicht Farmers Market, offering toasted samples of his amazing creation. When people ask him about the recipe, he tells them that there’s no flour, no yeast, and no binding agent. That’s when someone says, “Wait a minute, is this even considered bread?” And just like that, #breadnotbread becomes the catchy slogan – a loaf for all the folks who can’t eat or simply choose not to eat regular bread.

So here’s the deal: my journey into the world of bread started with a humble kitchen-restaurant setup. But let me tell you, things have come a long way since then. Fast forward to 2019, and I’m the proud owner of a cozy little bakery in Paarden Island.

Now, you might be wondering how all this bread magic happened. Well, it all began with a simple WhatsApp group. From there, the word spread like wildfire, and now we’re stocked in over 200 locations across the country. Talk about success!

Here’s a fun fact about me – I have a serious addiction to #breadnotbread. Yes, you heard that right. There’s just something about opening my fridge and seeing it stacked with loaves that fills me with joy. And I know I’m not the only one. People from all over the world can’t get enough of our bread. They stuff their suitcases with it, and even send us pleading letters from cities like London, Rio, and Amsterdam. It’s crazy!

So here I am, stuck in lockdown, facing a whole new battle. You see, the price of buckwheat seeds has gone through the roof. They used to be R18/kg, but now they’re a whopping R45/kg. Can you believe it? It’s seriously affecting our profits. Our original plan was to make our bread as affordable as possible. We wanted to sell big volumes, even if it meant smaller margins. But with these skyrocketing ingredient costs, it’s becoming nearly impossible.

Now, let me tell you a bit about buckwheat. South African farmers grow it, and it’s actually quite an easy crop to cultivate. The trouble comes when we have to remove the hull from the seeds. That’s where things get expensive. We need specialized equipment to do the job, and most of that equipment is made in China. So not only are the seeds themselves expensive, but we also have to invest in costly machinery.

When I’m trying to sell more bread, I spend a lot of time offering samples in the store. It’s really amazing to see people’s reactions when they taste it – their eyes light up! Almost everyone loves it, with a satisfaction rate of 99.99%. However, the price is sometimes a bit of a problem for some people. It can be difficult to convince them that the quality justifies the cost.

One of the challenges is getting people to see my bread as different from the other options on the shelf. There are so many choices, but most of them are just mediocre imitations. They’re made with cheap ingredients and artificial additives, disguised as “healthy” options like “multigrain,” “whole wheat,” or “low GI.” In reality, they’re just processed junk that messes with our bodies.

So, how do I make my bread stand out? Well, I focus on a few key points when talking to customers. First and foremost, I explain that my bread has zero wastage. It can last up to two weeks in the fridge or six months in the freezer, so you never have to throw away a slice. That’s a great selling point for people who hate wasting food.

But the real difference is in the quality of the ingredients. My bread is made with nothing but whole seeds, water, and sea salt. It’s as close to nature as you can get. No artificial flavors, no weird chemicals – just pure, wholesome goodness. This means that it’s packed with nutrients and is incredibly healthy to eat.

So, if you want a bread that not only tastes amazing but is also good for you, look no further. My bread is the real deal, made with care and the best ingredients. Once you try it, you’ll never want to go back to those mass-produced loaves again. Trust me, your taste buds and your body will thank you.

‘Think of it like a meal, not just plain old bread,’ I say with a grin. ‘At around R4 per slice, it’s a pretty affordable way to have a tasty and easy meal. Plus, it’s packed with plant proteins, so you’ll feel way more satisfied than with regular bread!’

‘Wow,’ a customer says, completely convinced as they toss a loaf into their shopping cart. ‘You’re a really persuasive salesperson!’ I chuckle, fixing the strings on my trusty Hannam&Co apron and scanning the store for my next target. ‘Would you like to give our groundbreaking new bread a try?’

The Bread Consciousness Movement Takes Off

‘Bread consciousness in South Africa is definitely on the rise. But is this shift actually meaningful? Honestly, I’m not sure,’ ponders Markus Färbing, a fourth-generation baker born and raised in Austria, widely regarded as the pioneer of the “real bread” movement in South Africa. His journey in baking started at the tender age of 10, working in the family bakery in his village.

I wasn’t even interested in the pre-mixed breads that were delivered in tanks after the war. But when I moved to America, I noticed a fresh excitement for making bread by hand, a whole new approach. After teaching baking at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America for eight years, my partner Liezie Mulder and I decided to open our own bakery called île de pain – which means ‘island of bread’ – on Thesen Island in Knysna in 2002.

Not only was I creating a type of bread that most South Africans had never tasted before, but I was also training other bakers. One of them was Paul Cremer, who later went on to open Woodstock Bakery.

I like to compare sourdough bread to rediscovering a childhood memory, like stumbling upon a lost family photo album. Currently, I work as a consultant for “good people,” baking one loaf at a time and meticulously documenting every detail as if I were a lab rat.

When it comes to the science of baking bread, Färbringer tries to break it down, but I prefer to go with my gut. I find joy in witnessing the magic of bread-making. Like Färbringer, I also prefer the traditional method of using wood-fired ovens. However, bakers like Fritz Schoon from Cape Town and Adam Robertson from Durban, owner of Glenwood Bakery and author of the captivating book “A Book About Bread,” prefer the convenience of an electric oven.

Regardless of our preferred baking methods, all of us great bread bakers agree that the key to amazing flavor, texture, and nutrition lies in long fermentation and using stoneground flours. Robertson, with a touch of dry humor, admits that he’s not particularly interested in the health benefits of bread. “For me, it’s all about the taste. But who knows? Maybe there’s a strong connection between health and taste after all.”

Hey there! Let me tell you something really cool about stoneground milling. You see, when it comes to making flour, most industrial mills remove the bran and germ from the wheat seed. But not stoneground milling! It grinds the whole wheat seed, including the bran and germ. And you know what’s even cooler? The mill stones in stoneground milling grind at super slow speeds, so they don’t generate a lot of heat. This means that the flour retains all its nutrients and flavors.

It’s pretty amazing, right? Stoneground milling is all about keeping things natural. Nothing is taken out, and nothing is added. That’s why it’s so special.

In South Africa, stoneground milling plays a big role. You know, they wouldn’t have been able to settle there if they didn’t have good flour. Luckily, there’s a mill called Eureka that provides them with top-notch flour. But before Eureka, there was a guy named Joos Solms. He imported the very first mill stones from Denmark in the 1990s. In fact, he was the one who started the whole stoneground milling movement in the country. How cool is that?

Now, let’s talk about gluten-free bread!

Who makes the best gluten-free seed breads?

You can find Hannam&Co loaves, shells, and pizza bases in the freezers of all Wellness Warehouse stores, as well as select Checkers, Spars, and delis. If you want to know where else to find them, visit hannam.co.za or send an email to [email protected]

Now, let’s talk about the best flours. Look for stoneground flour from Eureka, Champagne Valley, Gideon, Golden Reef (Bio-Wheat), and Lowland (each website has a list of distributors). Keep in mind that stoneground flour is more “alive” and a bit trickier to work with, so you’ll need some patience as a baker.

If you’re looking for the best bread bakers, follow the flour… check out the bakeries listed on Eureka’s website (eurekamills.co.za). You’ll find Crust & Crumb and Vovo Telo in Johannesburg, Jason and Woodstock Bakeries in Cape Town, and Manna in Durban.

And if you’re interested in baking your own loaf, let’s dive in!

If you love baking bread, then you’ll definitely want to visit The Perfect Loaf website. They have everything you need to know about making your own sourdough starter and a wide range of delicious sourdough recipes. You can also check out the book A Book About Bread from Glenwood Bakery for even more bread-making inspiration.

This article was originally published in the October 2022 print issue of Getaway magazine, so you know it’s reliable and informative. The author, Pippa de Bruyn, has shared some great insights about bread and baking.

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