The Mysterious Baviaanskloof Valley: Unraveling its Surprises

Welcome to the captivating realm of Baviaanskloof, a hidden treasure nestled in the heart of the Eastern Cape, a mere hundred kilometers from South Africa’s enchanting southern coastline. My journey took me from the picturesque shores of Plettenberg Bay, across the mist-shrouded Prince Alfred’s Pass, and through the majestic Outeniqua Mountains.

Leaving behind the rain-soaked landscapes of Plett, I ventured into a world of wonder as I crossed the mighty Outeniquas. The skies cleared, and suddenly, the environment morphed before my eyes. Gone were the lush coastal forests, as the rain shadow transformed the terrain into a drier expanse. At first glance, one might be tempted to perceive Baviaanskloof as a scorching, arid wasteland. However, it holds secrets waiting to be unraveled.

The Baviaans is truly unique, and there are a few reasons why. One of the reasons is its location. It’s located at the convergence of various climatic zones. This means that it sits right on the dividing line between areas that receive winter rainfall and areas that receive summer rainfall.

But that’s not the only thing that makes the Baviaans special. The landscape itself is something to marvel at. The valley stretches out, long and slender, bordered by towering mountain ranges that stretch from west to east. And if that wasn’t enough, these mountains are intricately carved with narrow kloofs, also known as slot canyons, that run from north to south.

Wow, check this out! Baviaanskloof, a relatively small region, holds a mind-blowing record: it’s home to a whopping seven out of eight of South Africa’s biomes. Can you believe that? I mean, that’s like, unparalleled in the whole country, and maybe even the entire world! Talk about diversity!

So, here’s what makes Baviaanskloof so special. Its complex topography and unique geographic position create the perfect conditions for a variety of habitats to thrive. We’ve got it all here: Fynbos, Sub-Tropical thicket, Nama Karoo, Succulent Karoo, Grassland, Savannah, and Afrotemperate Forest. It’s like a dream come true for nature lovers!

And hold on tight because it gets even better. Baviaanskloof is actually a World Heritage Site! It’s one of those special places that have been designated and protected because of its awe-inspiring natural wonders. In fact, it’s part of the Fynbos biome, which is like the holy grail of plant diversity. Scientists say that the Fynbos biome has more plant species per square kilometer than any other place on Earth. And get this, a staggering 32% of the plant species found in Baviaanskloof can’t be found anywhere else on the entire planet. Talk about exclusive!

The Baviaanskloof Reserve, managed by Eastern Cape Parks and Tourism, sits in the eastern side of the valley, amid rugged and untamed terrain. However, the reserve is not confined to these boundaries alone. It is part of a larger mega-reserve that encompasses not just conservation areas but also privately-owned farmland, where sustainable farming practices are followed. On the western side of the valley lies a narrow stretch of lowland, enclosed by majestic mountains. This is where the local farmers reside, next to the ever-flowing river that lends its name to the valley.

I’m going to the reserve tomorrow, but before that, I’ve been staying on two different farms: Kamerkloof and Zandfontein. These farms are right near the entrance of the reserve and are absolutely gorgeous. It’s a great way to get to know the area, and the people who live here are so friendly and welcoming.

So, I’m out for a stroll on Kamerkloof farm with Nick Reyneke, the owner. We’re wandering along in this really hot, sub-tropical thicket, full of these amazing sweethorn trees. Then, out of nowhere, we step into this little shaded canyon called Dam se Kloof, and bam! Suddenly we’re surrounded by this dense forest jam-packed with fig and stinkwood trees. Can you believe it? There are even rock pools and streams, and get this – frogs and birds! Nick tells me there are even Knysna loeries hanging out in these narrow ravines. Whoa, hold the phone! Usually, you only find these birds in the damp coastal forests along the Indian Ocean. I actually saw a bunch of them when I hiked the Otter Trail in the Garden Route National Park last November, but I would have never guessed they’d be chillin’ here in the Baviaans. The place seems way too dry, right? But these stunning kloofs create their own microclimates and it’s a whole different ballgame.

It’s amazing to think that some families in this valley have been living here for almost 200 years! Can you believe it? There are only 13 farms here, but that’s all it takes to create a strong sense of community. But things are changing, my friend. Farming is getting harder and harder these days, and here’s why: we don’t have enough water!

Since time immemorial, farmers have worked the fertile alluvial soils, cultivating their crops and allowing their livestock to graze on the untouched veld. In an effort to control the water supply, the river was artificially diverted, creating a prosperous farming region. However, over time, the land became less and less fruitful as the veld was overgrazed and the groundwater levels diminished. The once plentiful alluvial fans vanished, and erosion worsened due to the artificial channeling of the river. This alteration in the river’s path prevented the water from seeping into the soil and gradually replenishing it throughout the year, causing the river’s flow to increase drastically and most of the water in the valley to disappear rapidly.

Wow, can you believe it? Farmers like me are really feeling the effects of climate change. These days, we have to adapt and get ready for what the future holds. You see, the weather patterns are changing, and it’s not in our favor.

They say that this area will keep getting drier and drier. We used to rely on rain in the summer, but now it seems like we’re getting more and more rainfall in the winter. And let me tell you, this summer has been the driest one yet. We’ve only had 18mm of rain since last June, while the winter rains gave us a whopping 400mm.

But us farmers, we’re not just sitting around and complaining. No way! We’re rolling up our sleeves and working together to fix things. You see, we’re focused on restoring the damaged land and the riverbanks. That way, the groundwater will replenish and we won’t lose our precious topsoil.

Thankfully, we’re not alone in this fight. The government is lending us a helping hand. Both the provincial and national governments are involved, and even the Dutch government is pitching in with some funding. Together, we’re taking steps to ensure a sustainable future for our farms and our community.

So, Piet just let me in on a little secret about the farmers in the valley – they’re hoping to score some serious cash from these things called payments for eco-system services. Turns out, the valley provides some pretty important services to the whole region.

Now, downstream of the Baviaans River is a massive dam called the Kouga Dam. This bad boy is one of the largest dams in the whole province, and it’s the main source of fresh water for the city of Port Elizabeth. Pretty cool, huh?

It’s amazing how the river’s flow can shape the world around us. Over time, though, the river’s channel has changed, and the dam it feeds has suffered the consequences. Unsustainable farming practices have only made matters worse. Now, as the rainy season descends upon us, the dam fills up quickly, forcing us to release water to prevent flooding, even though we need every last drop. It’s a shame that most of the rainwater simply washes away, refusing to nourish the thirsty ground.

But imagine this: a restored veld, rich with vitality. With its rejuvenated soil, it will embrace the rainwater, holding it tight throughout the year. And when the time is right, it will release the water into the dam, drop by precious drop. This simple act has the power to transform our arid land into something extraordinary.

Now, picture South Africa – a place of vibrant cities and a bustling economy. It relies on fresh water like a desert needs rain. Without this lifeblood, everything comes to a standstill. We can’t let that happen. We need to breathe life back into our land, starting with the veld.

It’s not surprising to see farmers supporting conservation. When natural veld is restored, small antelope and wildlife return. On the reserve itself, buffalo, mountain zebra, eland, and rhino were brought back in the early 1990s. Sometimes, kudu and buffalo even walk across Piet’s farm.

But there’s more. Leopards, which were often hunted by livestock farmers in the past, also inhabit the area. The Landmark Foundation has conducted research on these majestic predators and has collaborated with farmers to address conflicts that arise when these beautiful cats live alongside their juicy, fat livestock.

So, Piet tells me that most farmers have stopped hunting and trapping leopards. They’ve come to see that leopards actually play an important role. These big cats help control other predators like caracal and jackal, so there’s less livestock loss. Of course, it’s not a perfect solution, and farmers still lose some animals to leopards. But according to Piet, they understand that the leopards are more valuable alive than dead.

The leopard is a powerful symbol for tourism in the region. It represents a shift from agriculture to this new industry as the main source of income. As farming becomes less viable, the community now relies heavily on tourists who come to the valley. These visitors are drawn not only by the chance to see leopards but also by the opportunity to observe buffalo, kudu, eland, bushbuck, and black rhinos. These animals have thrived in the reserve and contribute to its allure.

For those planning a visit, this area offers more than just wildlife. There are charming guesthouses situated amidst the breathtaking landscape. These accommodations, such as Kamerkloof and Zandvontein, provide the perfect opportunity for a memorable stay.

Yesterday, I had a short trip with ranger Klasie Kietas to a stunning ravine called Geelhoutbos. As its Afrikaans name suggests, this place is filled with yellowwood trees. It’s amazing how quickly the landscape changes – just a few metres from the hot thicket, teeming with cicadas, and you find yourself in a cool, moist forest. I haven’t encountered anything quite like it on my Year in the Wild adventure. No wonder people can’t help but rave about Baviaans, especially if you’re a nature lover like me.

At the top of Geelhoutbos, Klasie showed me some bushman paintings. They are unlike any other rock art I’ve seen in South Africa. You should take a look at the photos and see for yourself!

Hey there! I’m Klasie, and I’ve been working for the parks board for a solid 25 years. It’s quite the journey! Now, let me tell you about my birthplace, the lovely Studtis. It’s around 30kms west of the reserve, near Kamerkloof.

Boy, oh boy, was it hot today! As we made our way out of the forest and onto the slopes, the temperatures just went through the roof. I had to take regular water breaks to keep cool, but not Klasie. Nope! He didn’t touch a drop. Can you believe it? “The more I drink, the more I sweat,” he said with a cheeky grin. That’s the secret to his survival in these scorching conditions.

You know, Klasie’s DNA is truly in sync with this breathtaking landscape and the fierce climate. I wouldn’t be surprised if his ancestry stretches back thousands of years. Me? Well, my ancestors had a different story. They spent way too much time in Europe freezing their feathers off!

I can’t wait to explore the reserve after spending so much time on the farms. It’s not crowded this time of year, so I hope to see some magnificent animals like buffalo, eland, kudu, and of course, baboons. The river is a great place to cool off, and I’ve already gone for a few swims. Today, I’ll do the same.

If you’re looking for a fantastic place to stay in Baviaanskloof, check out the amazing accommodations offered by Getaway Accommodation!

If you’re looking for a fantastic place to stay in Baviaanskloof, check out the amazing accommodations offered by Getaway Accommodation!