Backpacking the world MzansiBride

Winona Griggs

Backpacking the World: A Journey of a Lifetime

Hey there! I’m Iain, and together with my partner Claire, we’re on an incredible journey of a lifetime. We’re South African travel enthusiasts who call ourselves backpackers, wandering across continents from Shanghai to Cape Town. It’s been over a year, can you believe it?

I’ve always been thrilled by those daring adventurers who embark on epic trips around the world with just a backpack on their shoulders. So, I sat down with Claire and me to talk about our own journey, hoping to gather some invaluable tips and inspiration for my future epic adventure!

So, let me ask you this: What’s the one place that has stolen your heart on this incredible journey?

Varanasi, believe it or not, is considered one of the oldest cities in the world. I had the chance to visit this incredible place for the third time at the beginning of my trip. Let me tell you, the riverside ceremonies by the Ganges River were simply enchanting. But what really captured my imagination were the narrow, crumbling alleyways that seemed to hold countless stories from the past. It left me yearning to return in the near future to learn Hindi and delve deeper into the city’s history and culture.

But what about the downsides?

I immediately think of Allahabad in northern India and Hanoi in northern Vietnam when it comes to places where I received a less-than-friendly welcome. Finding an honest auto-rickshaw driver in Allahabad and avoiding rigged taxi meters in Hanoi proved to be more challenging than anywhere else I’ve been. In both cities, with only a few exceptions, the people we interacted with while buying goods or services were pushy and aggressive. In Allahabad, a rickshaw driver nearly ran us over because we refused to pay more than our agreed-upon fare. And in Hanoi, we were literally shooed out of shops simply because we were foreigners.

So, which journey was my favorite on this trip?

I embarked on a remarkable adventure through the beautiful land of Tibet, specifically among the Kham people, along the awe-inspiring Sichuan-Tibet Highway. Now, don’t let the name “Highway” fool you; this winding road was more like a precarious dirt track hugging the mountainside. Over the span of a week, I experienced the true essence of this incredible region.

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Our journey began in Shangri-La, where we had the privilege of sharing a lunch with Tibetan nomads in a serene location along an old logging track. It was a truly memorable experience to connect with the locals and learn about their fascinating lifestyle.

As we continued our expedition, we came across an unexpected event in Xiangcheng – a strike! It was a powerful display of resistance, but unfortunately, the government swiftly intervened to suppress it. It was a stark reminder of the delicate balance between personal freedom and authority.

As we ventured further into the heart of Tibet, we faced the challenge of altitude sickness in Litang. The thin air was overwhelming at first, but we adapted and embraced the vibrant local culture. The resilience of the people living in such high altitudes left a lasting impression on me.

Our exploration took us through the picturesque grasslands outside Tagong, where we discovered a hidden gem – a monastery nestled beneath a majestic snow-capped peak. This peaceful sanctuary was not only home to dedicated monks but also had an enchanting array of animals, including pet deer and fluffy white rabbits. It was a surreal sight to behold.

Reflecting on this extraordinary journey, I can’t help but recall the delightful meals I savored along the way. If I had to choose the best dish, it would undoubtedly be the ones shared with the hospitable Tibetan nomads. The flavors, the ambiance, and the warmth of their company made it an unmatched culinary experience.

In my experience, I’ve had the pleasure of trying homemade goats cheese. It’s quite a treat! The cheese is made at home and then lightly fried to perfection. To add some extra flavor, it’s sprinkled with crushed huajiao – a unique Chinese pepper that gives a slightly medicinal taste and even numbs the mouth a little. To complement this delightful dish, it’s served with a spicy banana flower salad. Both of these dishes are local specialties from Yunnan province, located in Southwestern China. The cuisine in this region is inspired by its neighboring countries such as Tibet, Sichuan, Laos, and Thailand. It’s a wonderful blend of flavors and influences.

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Let me share with you an interesting story about one of the worst meals I’ve ever had. It happened in a small Vietnamese village. We were served a bowl of beef pho, which is typically a delicious and comforting dish. However, the circumstances made this meal quite unpleasant. As we were eating, we noticed that we had a clear view of a just-slaughtered dog. It was an unfortunate and unsettling experience.

Now, let’s talk about travel! I’d love to know your favorite airport, train station, or bus station. Each one has its unique charm and characteristics. Whether you’re a frequent traveler or just enjoy the occasional journey, there’s always that one place that stands out as your favorite. It could be because of the architecture, the amenities, the atmosphere, or even the memories associated with that place. I’m curious to hear about your chosen spot!

Gorakhpur Junction is such a busy train station in India. It’s a bit messy and unorganized, with people just hanging around in the parking lot, cooking on little stoves and making themselves comfortable. We got stuck in Gorakphur twice, on our way to and from Nepal. When we were leaving, we got into a silly argument at the ticket window because we refused to pay a bribe. And when we were coming in, the tickets to our next destination were all sold out, but maybe they were just trying to extort more money from us. We found this confusing hotel with a restaurant that smelled like butter, and it overlooked the station. It was interesting to watch people bustling around in the bright lights of the night, and it made us realize just how many people live in India, which was both amazing and frustrating.

So, what are the lessons we’ve learned on this trip?

When you travel across countries by land, you engage in a constant process of learning and connecting with different cultures. My journey began over a year ago, and I’ve gained a wealth of knowledge. Beyond discovering fascinating information about various places and their people, I’ve also come to realize how simple it is to adjust to new surroundings when you develop the habit of adaptation. Through this process, you learn what you truly need and what you can do without.

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So, what advice do I have for those who want to embark on an overland journey around the world?

First, get yourself a world map and hang it somewhere visible. Being able to trace your route on the map creates a sense of manageability for a vast trip. Overland travel can be unpredictable, so it’s wise to have alternative routes in mind. When covering long distances, political instability, inclement weather, or changes in regulations often necessitate detours.

Have you ever thought about what you really want to experience in life?

Bucket lists can sometimes make traveling feel like a checklist. But what if I told you that there’s more to it? There are countless meaningful moments and extraordinary people out there that can’t be found in any travel guide. Let me share an example with you:

Imagine walking down a narrow alleyway in Pingyao, a small town in China. As you wander, you stumble upon an old man. His body is withered, showing the wisdom of a life well-lived. This encounter could be a moment to remember forever, but if you’re solely focused on ticking off tourist sites, you might not even notice him.

This old man has a story to tell. He has experienced the hardships of surviving the Cultural Revolution and has dedicated his life to following the Dao, a spiritual path of peace and self-discovery. His journey and the lessons he has learned are far more valuable than any landmark you could visit.

So, instead of simply chasing after popular tourist destinations, I invite you to open yourself up to the possibility of genuine connections and authentic experiences. Embrace the unexpected encounters that may not be found on any bucket list. These moments have the power to enrich your life in unimaginable ways and leave an indelible mark on your soul.

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