An elephantine experience in Addo

Winona Griggs

An elephantine experience in Addo

When it comes to captivating wildlife encounters, the Greater Addo Area in South Africa is truly a treasure trove. I recently had the opportunity to explore this exquisite destination, and I must say, it was nothing short of extraordinary.

The moment I entered the Addo Elephant National Park, I was immediately immersed in a world filled with wonder. The vastness of the park was awe-inspiring, stretching out as far as the eye could see. Everywhere I looked, there were stunning landscapes and lush vegetation, creating the perfect habitat for a diverse array of wildlife.

As I embarked on my safari adventure, the anticipation was palpable. I couldn’t help but wonder what incredible sights awaited me. And let me tell you, I was not disappointed.

The highlight of my visit was undoubtedly the elephants. These majestic creatures, known for their intelligence and empathy, stole my heart. As I watched them pass by, I was struck by their sheer size and grace. It was a humbling experience to be in such close proximity to these gentle giants.

But the elephants were not the only stars of the show. The park was teeming with a wide variety of wildlife, from lions and rhinos to zebras and warthogs. It was like stepping into a real-life safari movie, with every moment packed with excitement and anticipation.

Exploring the park with a knowledgeable guide was a game-changer. Their expertise and passion for the wildlife brought the experience to a whole new level. They were able to point out hidden gems and provide fascinating insights into the animals’ behavior and natural habitat.

One of the aspects I appreciated most about the Addo Elephant National Park was its commitment to conservation. They have implemented various initiatives to protect and preserve the environment, ensuring that future generations can continue to enjoy the wonders of this incredible place.

In conclusion, my time in Addo was an unforgettable adventure. It’s one thing to see these magnificent creatures on television, but to witness them up close and personal is a truly remarkable experience. I would highly recommend adding the Greater Addo Area to your travel bucket list. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.

An elephantine experience in Addo

I’m going to take you on a wild journey through the magnificent Addo conservation area, stretching from the Karoo to the islands in Algoa Bay. This vast place is home to a diverse range of plants and animals, ranging from cute meerkats to fascinating marine life. You’ll find everything from dry, sandy landscapes to lush coastal woodlands. Get ready for an exhilarating adventure!

Written and captured by Dale R Morris

An elephantine experience in Addo

When I think about Addo, it’s hard to believe that it all started with just 11 elephants. Now, there are around 700 of these magnificent creatures roaming the park. Over the years, Addo has taken steps to ensure the health of its elephant gene pool by introducing new bulls from Kruger.

One of the most breathtaking sights I witnessed was from the deck of the Raggy Charters tour boat, docked near the guano-stained rocks of Bird Island in Algoa Bay. As I inhaled the salty air, I couldn’t help but marvel at the spectacle unfolding before me. A swirling tornado of Cape gannets circled around a striking red and white lighthouse.

The number of gannets was staggering. There had to be tens of thousands, maybe even more, creating a mesmerizing flurry like a blizzard over the sea. They would dive into the water with precision, plunging down with force and creating chaos for any unfortunate fish below. And there, not far from the gannets, was a magnificent whale, probably a humpback, gracefully swimming. And to my delight, a pod of playful bottlenose dolphins accompanied her.

An elephantine experience in Addo

As I sail through Addo’s coastal section, I’m immediately struck by the sight of dominating sand dunes and lush forests. It’s a breathtaking sight, filled with vibrant nature and hidden treasures waiting to be discovered.

Welcome to the Algoa Bay marine protected area!

“The seven small islands of Algoa Bay hold immense importance for countless marine organisms,” exclaimed our boat’s skipper, his voice competing with the squawking birds around us. “They provide a safe haven for over 4,000 penguins and serve as the exclusive breeding grounds for roseate terns in our nation. That rock you see over there,” he pointed to a small outcropping, “is home to the easternmost seal colony on the entire continent. And let’s not forget about these…” He gestured with his hand in a sweeping motion, encompassing the numerous gannets surrounding us.

An elephantine experience in Addo

I often see common dolphins in Addo’s Marine Protected Area. It’s a special place that covers 1,200 square kilometers in Algoa Bay. This protected area is not only important for marine mammals, birds, and fish, but also for abalone and great white sharks.

Recently, I tried something exciting in Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth) – cage diving with great white sharks. It was an incredible experience to come face to face with these fascinating creatures.

The next day, I decided to go back out to sea with Pro Dive, a scuba-diving company that has permission to operate in the Marine Protected Area. We explored Evan’s Peak, a submerged pinnacle near St Croix Island. It was a magical place where I saw all kinds of amazing creatures.

An elephantine experience in Addo

Seals and many other ocean mammals – including even great white sharks – live in Addo. It’s their home.

There were bright orange sponges and vibrant soft corals, along with fish of all shapes and colors. The most exciting fish I saw was a big ragged-toothed shark that swam past me slowly. I watched her disappear into the dark depths below and couldn’t help but wonder: “Can this really be Addo Elephant National Park?” But it is.

Addo’s Early Beginnings & Expansion

Not too long ago, people in South Africa only thought of Addo as a small safari place. You could drive through thick bushes and be sure to see a couple of elephants. It was a nice addition to a Garden Route trip.

But since the 1930s, when it started as a 2,000-hectare “zoo” for a few struggling elephants, Addo has grown a lot in size and purpose.

An elephantine experience in Addo

When I visited Bird Island in Algoa Bay, I was astounded by the sheer size of the Cape gannet colony. It was a sight to behold.

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In the year 2021, the park has grown significantly and now spans nearly 3,000 square kilometers. Its mission has expanded as well. Not only does it strive to protect the elephants, whose population has grown to about 700, but it also aims to preserve various endangered ecosystems.

Addo National Park is home to six distinct habitats: Nama Karoo, fynbos, forest, subtropical thicket, coastal, and marine. Each habitat is a treasure trove of diverse wildlife. From the perlemon and pufferfish to the majestic rhinos, lions, and hyenas, the park is teeming with life.

My family and I embarked on a journey to discover the wonders of Addo’s eight different regions. From the glistening shores of Darlington Dam in the Karoo, to the majestic dunes and rugged islets of the southern coast, we experienced it all. We hiked, sailed, drove, and even rode on horseback. After our 10-day adventure, we unanimously agreed that Addo is undoubtedly the most diverse national park in Africa, if not the entire world.

An elephantine experience in Addo

When you visit Addo, get ready to encounter a wide variety of wildlife, including zebras. They are a common sight in the park and add an element of excitement to your safari experience.

A Unique Landscape

Addo has two main game drive areas, known as the Colchester and Main Camp sectors. While some parts of these areas are dense and difficult to navigate due to thick vegetation, there are several routes that offer panoramic views of open landscapes teeming with animals. Keep your eyes peeled for zebras, hartebeests, buffalos, and, of course, elephants. Along the Gorah Loop and in the southern Colchester sector, you may even catch glimpses of black rhinos, hyenas, and lions.

During my two-day visit to Addo, I stayed at the charming Matyholweni Rest Camp. From there, I set out on well-maintained roads that took me through the park’s core area. Along the way, I had the pleasure of encountering meerkats, secretary birds, warthogs, bat-eared foxes, and even a majestic lion basking in the open. Its black Kalahari mane was a sight to behold!

An elephantine experience in Addo

Imagine standing on the sandy shores of the Sundays River mouth. It’s a beautiful coastal landscape that stretches as far as the eye can see. The dunes rise and fall like waves frozen in time.

When you visit this part of the park, there’s an endless array of activities to keep you entertained. Whether you’re driving around in your own car or joining a guided tour, there’s always something exciting to discover. You can even go on a thrilling night drive and witness the wildlife in action.

But, if you’re looking for something different, Addo has so much more to offer. It’s not just about the game drives and the chance to spot the Big Five.

An elephantine experience in Addo

When I think of Matyholweni Rest Camp in the Colchester section of Addo, the first thing that comes to mind is the cozy thatched cottage accommodation. It’s a charming and rustic experience that adds a touch of nostalgia to your stay.

Let’s Explore the Woody Cape

Now, if you’re up for an adventure, you should definitely head down to the coastal section known as the Woody Cape. This place is like no other in the Eastern Cape. As you hike through the evergreen forests and desert-like scenery, you might even feel like you’re in Namibia!

But wait, I know what you’re thinking. A 36km hike, with most of it through soft sand? That sounds daunting. Well, fear not, my friend. Even if you’re not up for that kind of challenge, you can still get a taste of the beauty that the Woody Cape has to offer. There are several easy forest trails near the Langebos huts and the Umsintsi honeymoon cottage. Alternatively, you can take a scenic drive to Canon Rocks, a coastal village that offers a less demanding 7km trail. And if you’re craving some dunes, you can find them a short drive away from the Matyholweni Rest Camp, near Colchester.

An elephantine experience in Addo

As I watched the sunrise, I couldn’t help but smile at the sight of two young meerkats playfully frolicking in the early morning light.

A Remarkable Stay at Gorah Elephant Camp

Our next adventure led us to the lavish Gorah Elephant Camp, a magnificent five-star lodge nestled in the heart of one of Addo’s most wildlife-abundant areas. From the moment we arrived, we were immersed in a world of luxury, with delectable cuisine, breathtaking accommodations, knowledgeable guides, and countless excursions into the awe-inspiring surrounding wilderness.

Gorah Elephant Camp is situated on a private concession within the national park, ensuring exclusive sightings without the hustle and bustle of crowds. The lodge’s unfenced patio overlooks a serene dam that seemed to hold the most refreshing water in all of Addo. Day and night, we observed an incredible array of elephants, buffalo, and other thirsty wildlife quenching their thirst at this natural watering hole.

An elephantine experience in Addo

When I think about the waterhole in front of Gorah Elephant Camp, I can’t help but imagine the bustling scene of elephants and other animals coming together. It’s like a mini wildlife party that happens every day.

But that’s not all I experienced at Gorah Elephant Camp. I had the incredible opportunity to spend some quiet moments with a group of meerkats. These little creatures, who are used to human presence, let me get up close and personal. I watched them as they stood in a line, silhouetted by the rising sun. It was a magical sight, as if they were soldiers on inspection.

Heading deeper into Nyathi

As I ventured further north of the main camp area, I found myself in the stunning 14,000-hectare Nyathi section. Here, secluded plains nestle between forested mountains, creating a unique landscape that sets it apart from the other areas I had explored in Addo.

However, I soon discovered that most of Nyathi is not easily accessible. The roads are steep and muddy, making it challenging for casual visitors like me to navigate. While it was disappointing not to explore every corner of Nyathi, I couldn’t help but appreciate the rugged beauty that lay beyond my reach.

If you want to visit Nyathi, there are a few ways to get there. One option is to join one of the park’s horse treks, which happen twice a day. In the morning, there’s a trek for beginners, and in the afternoon, there’s one for more experienced riders. Now, I consider myself a pretty decent rider, but when Thando Ntamo, the horse whisperer of Addo, started his safety briefing, I couldn’t help but feel a little nervous. It almost seemed like I had unknowingly signed up for a dangerous adventure.

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An elephantine experience in Addo

Wow, let me tell you about my incredible experience at Nyathi Rest Camp by SANParks. It was total luxury, and the camp’s location was absolutely breathtaking.

During my stay, I received some interesting advice from Thando, one of the guides. He said, “If you happen to see a lion, don’t be in a rush to run away. Instead, dismount your horse, keep a firm hold on the reins, and stand your ground.”

Initially, I thought to myself, “Are you kidding me? There’s no way I could do that!” But I quickly realized that Thando’s unwavering confidence, combined with his powerful rifle, gave me a sense of trust and reassurance.

Amazingly, even the horses seemed unfazed by the presence of elephants. As we rode through Addo, surrounded by these majestic creatures, the horses remained calm and collected. I, on the other hand, couldn’t help but have sweaty palms and an incredibly tense jaw throughout the entire two-hour adventure. Despite my nerves, I couldn’t deny the exhilaration of being so close to Addo’s incredible wildlife. And to be honest, the fact that we didn’t encounter any buffalo, lions, or rhinos was actually a relief for me!

One of the highlights of my trip was exploring the Bedrogfontein 4×4 trail. The landscape was adorned with succulents, fynbos, and vibrant flowers, creating a picturesque view of the mountains.

That evening, I had the pleasure of staying at SANParks’ luxurious accommodations. These chic self-catering apartments are perched on a bluff, providing breathtaking views of the stunning Nyathi region. If you’re looking for an extraordinary experience, consider spending a night or two at the Riverbend Lodge. This five-star safari operator has an exclusive license to conduct game drives in this area.

Among the unique attractions of this region are the black rhinos. These magnificent creatures have a particular affinity for the lush vegetation that grows atop the Zuurberg foothills. The roads leading up these hills are so steep and treacherous that only military tanks or Land Cruisers can navigate them. Fortunately, Riverbend Lodge has an entire fleet of Land Cruisers at their disposal, ensuring that guests can comfortably explore this remarkable landscape.

Imagine this: I’m on a thrilling adventure, guided by an expert who knows exactly where to take me. We reached the highest points, driving from one rhino “dung midden” to another (kind of like a rhino social media platform). And then, it happened – we came face to face with one of these incredible creatures. The rhino snorted and made a bit of a fuss before disappearing into a valley far below. I can’t even begin to describe the feeling – it was pure magic.

An elephantine experience in Addo

Elephants are incredible creatures, and it’s no wonder they fascinate us. They form tight-knit family units and rely on each other for support. In Addo, a national park in South Africa, I witnessed a remarkable sight – a family of elephants gathered around a pumped waterhole, quenching their thirst and enjoying each other’s company. It was a heartwarming moment that reminded me of the importance of family bonds.

A Thrilling Adventure in Kabouga and Darlington

My journey then took me further north to the Kabouga and Darlington sections of the park. I was eager to embark on an ‘off-road’ adventure along the Bedrogfontien 4×4 trail, which spans 45 kilometers. Starting from either the fully equipped Kabouga House or the basic bush camping site at Mvubu, situated on the banks of the Sundays River, I set out into what felt like the absolute middle of nowhere.

You might be surprised to learn that the Darlington and Kabouga sections of Addo are the biggest, but they’re rarely explored by tourists. It’s because they’re not easy to get to. The Bedrogfontien route is the only way to access these areas, but it’s quite challenging. You’ll need a vehicle with low range and high clearance, and it’ll take you around six hours to complete the journey.

As you navigate through these sections, you’ll encounter diverse landscapes. From dense forests to towering mountains, you’ll be treading on ground that has witnessed intense battles during the Anglo Boer War. And when you’re not surrounded by history, you’ll be treated to stunning views of the Karoo, a dry and barren region where oryx roam and survive against all odds.

An elephantine experience in Addo

Driving through the mountainous Nyathi section of the park was the perfect way to immerse myself in nature. The fynbos-covered meadows stretched out before me, offering stunning views in every direction. The feeling of being surrounded by the wilderness was so overwhelming that I was tempted to jump out of the car, twirl my kids around, and break into song like the Von Trapp family. However, I resisted the urge because there were rhinos, elephants, and buffalo roaming around, and I didn’t want to disturb them.

We wrapped up our journey at the beautiful Darlington Dam, a serene spot where you may catch a glimpse of flamingos and hippos. We paused there for a lakeside picnic, taking in the peaceful atmosphere. Finally, we hit the road again, making our way to our last destination: the charming Narina Bush Camp, located in the Zuurberg section of Addo.

An elephantine experience in Addo

When I arrived at Darlington Dam in the extreme north-east of Addo, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of awe and tranquility. It was as if I had stumbled upon a hidden gem nestled among the grassy mountains. As I explored the area, I discovered a fully equipped camp that offered a unique and peaceful experience.

A Hidden Oasis in Zuurberg

The camp was unlike anything I had ever seen before. It consisted of four furnished army tents, a lapa where I could relax and socialize, and even a heated bush shower for a touch of luxury amidst nature’s embrace. The camp was surrounded by the lush Afromontane forests, creating a vibrant canopy that provided shade and solace.

Curiosity got the better of me, and I decided to venture further into the mountains. The hike was steep, but I was rewarded with a breathtaking sight. As I reached a higher elevation, the landscape transformed into an open expanse adorned with colorful fynbos flowers. Towering above me were ancient cycad trees, standing tall and majestic.

There was something truly magical about being surrounded by nature’s beauty. The sights, sounds, and scents captivated my senses, making me feel connected to something greater than myself. It was a moment of pure bliss, one that I will cherish forever.

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If you’re looking for even more fynbos adventures, there are hiking trails located about half an hour’s drive north from Addo Main Gate along the scenic R335. I decided to explore these trails after spending 10 days in Darlington Dam, and I was not disappointed.

As I hiked along the trails, I came across a disused termite hill that offered a stunning panoramic view. I perched myself on top of the hill, taking in the 360-degree vista before me. It was a sight that left me in awe of nature’s grandeur.

My time in Zuurberg was a reminder of the beauty that can be found when we take a step off the beaten path. It was a journey of self-discovery and appreciation for the world around me. If you’re seeking a slice of tranquility and a true escape from the busyness of everyday life, I highly recommend exploring the wonders of Zuurberg.

An elephantine experience in Addo

I’m here to tell you about a truly special place called the Narina Bush Camp. Believe me when I say, this place is unlike any other. It’s so calm and peaceful, you can’t help but feel completely isolated from the world.

When I was there, I couldn’t help but take in the breathtaking views. To the north, I could see the hazy horizons of the Great Karoo. And when I turned my gaze to the east and west, I was greeted with the sight of sloping mountains covered in fynbos and forests. But the most incredible view was to the south. With the help of binoculars, I could just make out the sea and dunes of Algoa Bay. And there, in the distance, was the Bird Island lighthouse, surrounded by a sky filled with gannets. It was like a scene out of a dream.

What makes this place even more remarkable is that it’s been designated as a protected habitat. That means everything here is as nature intended. The wildlife flourishes, the plants thrive, and the whole place is teeming with life. It’s truly a sight to behold.

An elephantine experience in Addo

Imagine going on a fancy safari in Nyathi, thanks to Riverbend Lodge.

When our journey began, I found myself 15 meters below the ocean, and I couldn’t help but wonder, “Could this really be Addo Elephant National Park?”

As I looked around, surrounded by clouds, sugarbirds, and protea flowers, the answer became clear. Yes, it absolutely is Addo Elephant National Park. But it’s not just a place for elephants, it’s also home to sardines, trogons, and yellowwoods.

Plan Your Trip

Where to Stay

There are 11 different options for lodging inside Addo. Let me tell you about them:

The Kabouga cottage is available for only R600 per night for 2 people.

At the Mvubu campsite, you can stay for R160 per night for the first 2 people.

If you’re looking for a bush experience, the Narina Bush Camp is perfect. It starts at R1,545 per night for 4 people.

For a slightly higher price, the Nyathi Rest Camp is available starting at R2,110 per night for the first 2 people.

The Addo Main Camp offers a range of options. You can stay in a tent site for R350 per night or in a two-bed chalet for R1,780. If you’re looking for something more luxurious, there’s a six-person house available for R5,600.

If you prefer a tented camp experience, the Spekboom tented camp is a great choice. It costs R1,105 per night for 2 people.

The Langebos Huts are available starting at R1,770 for 4 people.

If you’re on your honeymoon, the Umsintsi honeymoon cottage is perfect for you. It costs R965 per night for 2 people.

Lastly, there’s Matyholweni. You can stay there starting at R1,695 per night for the first 2 people.

With all these options, you can find the perfect accommodation for your stay in Addo.

There’s something you need to know before diving into the rates: there’s an additional fee called the SANParks daily conservation fee. They charge R86 per adult per day and R43 per child per day. It’s important to keep this in mind when planning your visit. You can find more information at sanparks.org.

An elephantine experience in Addo

If you’re looking for an unforgettable South African getaway, you should check out the Gorah Elephant Camp and Riverbend Lodge. They both have incredible offers for SA residents that you won’t want to miss!

At the Riverbend Lodge, they currently have special packages discounted by up to 55% for SA residents until September 2021. This is a great opportunity to experience luxury at a fraction of the price. To learn more about these amazing deals, visit their website at riverbendlodge.co.za.

The Gorah Elephant Camp also has some fantastic offers for you to take advantage of. Until August 31, 2021 (and possibly beyond), they have special packages available with up to 60% off. Don’t miss out on this chance to see elephants up close and personal. Visit gorah.hunterhotels.com to find out more.

If you can’t find accommodation within the park, don’t worry. There are plenty of private options available just outside the boundaries of Addo’s sectors. Whether you’re looking for a basic campsite, a cozy B&B, or a lavish private lodge, you’ll find it all in the nearby area. To find out what’s available near each sector, simply search the name of the sector and ‘accommodation’ on Google.

Here’s what you can do:

When you arrive at Addo Main Camp, head to the reception and book a thrilling horse riding experience. Prices range from R565 to R610 per person for a two-hour trek. It’s a great way to explore the area and admire the beautiful wildlife.

If you prefer a guided experience, you can also book a game drive. These guided tours last approximately two hours and cost R415 per person. Get ready to witness the incredible wildlife of Addo!

An elephantine experience in Addo

Did you know that horse riding in Addo is a thrilling experience? There’s something truly special about exploring the stunning landscapes and wildlife of this area on horseback. It’s a popular activity that allows you to connect with nature and feel an incredible sense of freedom.

If you’re in Gqeberha (Port Elizabeth), you’re in luck! Raggy Charters offers a variety of marine trips into the Algoa Bay and MPA. With prices starting at just R1,700 per person, you can hop aboard and embark on an unforgettable adventure. Check out raggycharters.co.za for more information.

If scuba diving is more your style, don’t miss the opportunity to explore Evans Peak. For just R595 per person, you can dive into the depths and discover a whole new world underwater. Visit prodive.co.za to learn more about this thrilling dive.

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