Exploring the thrilling world of adventure biking in KwaZulu-Natal

Do you love the excitement and thrill of adventure? Are you seeking an adrenaline-pumping activity that takes you off the beaten path? Look no further than adventure biking in the scenic region of KwaZulu-Natal!

When you think of biking, you might picture a leisurely ride through the park or a quick trip to the store. But adventure biking is a whole different ballgame. It’s about pushing your limits, exploring uncharted territory, and experiencing the raw beauty of nature.

Take a moment to imagine yourself on a rugged mountain bike, traversing KwaZulu-Natal’s back roads. The wind brushes against your face as you pedal, and your heart races with anticipation. Around each bend, there’s a new discovery waiting to be made.

KwaZulu-Natal is a paradise for adventure bikers. With its diverse terrain, ranging from steep hills to dense forests, this region offers endless possibilities for thrilling rides. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced rider, there’s a trail suited just for you.

One of the key attractions of adventure biking in KwaZulu-Natal is the sense of freedom it offers. Unlike traditional biking routes, which often confine you to designated paths, adventure biking allows you to explore off-road trails and create your own path. You have the power to choose your own adventure.

But adventure biking is not just about the physical challenge. It’s also about immersing yourself in the beauty of your surroundings. As you ride through KwaZulu-Natal’s back roads, you’ll encounter breathtaking views, hidden waterfalls, and wildlife in their natural habitats. It’s a sensory experience like no other.

Moreover, adventure biking can be a transformative journey. It pushes you to step out of your comfort zone and confront your fears. It teaches you resilience, perseverance, and the importance of embracing the unknown. It’s a chance to discover new depths within yourself.

So, if you’re ready for an unforgettable adventure, grab your bike and head to KwaZulu-Natal. Explore the back roads, challenge yourself, and witness the wonders of nature. Adventure awaits at every turn. Don’t hold back – let your spirit soar!

When I think about it, I’ve had plenty of opportunities to reflect on my friend’s not-so-happy comment. But instead of saying our adventures were “ruined,” he chose a different word. I think that’s because real bikers wouldn’t want it any other way. Going through tough times like being cold, wet, muddy (and sometimes even bloody) is what sets us apart from regular drivers in the exciting world of road trips.

The early bird has all the fun – morning capers near Champagne Castle. Just the thought of it brings a smile to my face. I recently found myself reminiscing about Charley’s words, but this time it was the beginning of my journey that nearly threw me off track. A bunch of us riders had flown into King Shaka International Airport from different parts of the country. We were invited by the BMW Motorrad rider-training academy, and there we were, picking up shiny new BMW R1250GS and R1250GS Adventure bikes for our adventure through KwaZulu-Natal.

KZN is easily the best province in South Africa for embarking on an adventure bike road trip. There’s an abundance of places to explore and things to see, and the distances between them, particularly in the Midlands, are manageable. The roads offer a variety of surfaces that were a breeze for the new BMWs, and the level of riding difficulty is mostly dependent on the individual rider.

Me and the crew packed up our extra equipment into a backup vehicle (none of the bikes had those side bags or luggage racks) and hit the road from gloomy Umhlanga around mid-morning. Of course, we immediately found ourselves in some pretty thick traffic … not the ideal situation when you’re still getting accustomed to a new bike and trying to keep up with the leader in a city you’ve never been to before.

When I hit the road on the R600 to Champagne Castle, I was treated to breathtaking views of the classic Berg scenery. It was a sight to behold, and I couldn’t help but credit Rob Till for capturing such beauty.

This was my initial visit to the R103, as I usually frequent the N3 between Durban and Joburg. However, this new route felt strangely familiar. Over the years, I’ve watched the Comrades Marathon on TV, and the road signs I encountered recalled those iconic locations: Cowies Hill, Fields Hill, Kloof, Hillcrest, Drummond, and Camperdown.

When I hit the road, the first thing I noticed was the picturesque surroundings. Lined with beautiful trees, the roads were in excellent condition, making for a smooth and enjoyable drive. The traffic was not too heavy, which made the journey even more pleasant.

As I approached Howick, I had to take a leap over the N3, marking the beginning of my adventure on the Midlands Meander. This renowned route was created over three decades ago with the intention of providing an exciting escape for people who appreciate good food, art, history, and thrilling experiences.

The Midlands Meander is actually made up of five distinct routes, each offering its own unique attractions and experiences. Although these routes often intertwine, they cover a vast area that stretches between Mooi River and Hilton, with Karkloof marking the eastern border and the majestic Drakensberg Mountains serving as the western edge.

Riding near Karkloof was quite a challenge because of the big puddles and slippery clay. It made the whole experience tricky. But the real adventure began as I entered Nottingham Road, a small town with a history dating back to the last century. It was named after a British regiment that was once stationed there.

Just as I arrived in Nottingham Road, the weather took a turn for the worse. The sky darkened and it started to drizzle. However, we didn’t let a little rain dampen our spirits. We stopped at Netherwood Farm for lunch at Blueberry Café. The rain couldn’t ruin the delicious food and the cozy atmosphere.

Let me tell you about Netherwood, a ranch where cows live and work. The Blueberry Café at Netherwood is proud of its restroom that has a nice view of a field and hills. Sometimes, it can be a little unnerving to see a huge Angus bull peering at you through the huge windows while you eat. Our lunch that day took longer than expected, and the best part was definitely the famous blueberry cheesecake. The weather got worse as we sat there. It rained pretty hard, but not all the time. The mist got thicker and thicker until we could only see a few meters ahead.

I remember the time I rode with Charley Boorman on his TV show called Charley Boorman’s South African Adventure back in 2013. We had a terrifying and dangerous journey to Wilderness, covering 150 kilometers in extreme conditions. It was winter, and the ride was high-speed with zero visibility. When we finally arrived at our guest house, frozen and exhausted, Charley commented on the ordeal. He said that lack of visibility is every motorcyclist’s worst nightmare.

Fog and rain make it even worse because not only are you unable to see properly (unfortunately, helmets don’t come with windscreen wipers), but the chances of losing control and having an accident increase significantly during emergency braking.

Hey there! Wanna hear an interesting story about Chris Modise and his chat with the stud cattle at Netherwood Farm? Well, here it goes!

So, here’s the thing – exploring the Midlands can be a bit tricky. Trust me, I know. One moment, we were cruising on the R103, passing through Balgowan and Lidgetton, and then BAM! We found ourselves skirting Midmar Dam, making our way to Howick and Pietermaritzburg on the R56, with Richmond as our next stop.

Let me tell you, it wasn’t all rainbows and sunshine at that point. Nope, fun was not on the agenda for us. We hit our first gravel road, and it felt like we were in a never-ending nightmare. However, tough times teach you a thing or two. We quickly learned how to handle those new BMWs as we maneuvered through the forest, our tires crunching on the gray gravel. And just when we thought it couldn’t get worse, like a miracle, the fog lifted and the sun appeared. We even got the occasional shower, but the roads dried up in no time.

Now, here’s where things got exciting. With the Drakensberg mountains on our left, we zoomed ahead, feeling a rush of adrenaline. It’s amazing how a little bit of confidence can change everything.

Finally, we arrived at the Drakensberg Sun Resort near Winterton, and boy, were we ready to unwind. This hotel, built way back in the 70s, takes you back in time to the era of Southern Sun hotels. The group had dinner at the hotel, but personally, I would have preferred the Thokozisa Restaurant at the Curtis-Setchell brothers’ lifestyle center, just a short drive away. That place is a hit with tourists and locals alike, and the food is top-notch!

The next morning greeted us with clear skies, and a few of us couldn’t resist the urge to go off-roading in the hotel grounds. Let’s just say, there may have been some daring stunts involved. But we had a mission – covering a total of 650 kilometers, half of it on dirt roads, over the next two days. So, after a quick detour towards Winterton, we charted our own course. The trick to riding back roads is to find a landmark that you can always see, and in our case, we aimed for the Drakensberg mountains, keeping them on our right. Soon enough, we reached Nottingham Road from the west, and the adventure continued.

A big, powerful BMW machine cruised through the dirt and grime.

After a quick break to refuel and grab a coffee at Coffee and Life, I left Nottingham Road and made a left turn towards Bruntville and Treverton College. This led me to the Greytown road, which was the last bit of smooth pavement I would see for hours. It didn’t take long before I ventured into uncharted territory, the most difficult part of the journey. There had been a lot of rain in the days leading up to our trip, so I couldn’t relax on the slippery clay roads filled with water-filled potholes and gigantic lumber trucks.

We decided to turn off the R622 (Bruntville-Greytown) at Craigieburn Dam and soon found ourselves on a fast dirt road. Eventually, we reached a fork in the road. Taking a right would bring us past the Karkloof Nature Reserve and into Howick. But be warned, this route is only suitable for those who are familiar with the area and confident in their off-road riding skills.

If you go left at the fork, you’ll still have a great time exploring the forest without the worry of getting lost. There aren’t any clear landmarks, but eventually, you’ll reach the R33 near New Hanover. On your way, make sure to stop at the Amble Inn in Albert Falls for a delicious lunch. After their meal, my colleagues rushed back to King Shaka Airport to catch their flights. As for me, I had packed my belongings securely with bungee cords and decided to take a more relaxed route. I headed north towards Bergville, a place in KZN that holds a special place in my heart – Three Tree Hill Lodge.

The new bikes speeding along the dusty roads surrounding the Ncwadi forests.

I love military history, and Three Tree owner Simon Blackburn is an expert at sharing stories about the many battles fought in the area. With the sun rising, Simon and I set off on a hike through the grassy field. Our destination was Spioenkop, the lone battlefield from the Anglo-Boer War visited by three future national leaders: General Louis Botha, journalist Winston Churchill, and Mohandas Gandhi, working as a stretcher-bearer at the time. Standing there, just the two of us, the vast emptiness of the battlefield was hauntingly quiet, with nothing but the cawing of crows to break the stillness. Simon’s storytelling took on an extra layer of meaning in that serene atmosphere.

After enjoying a day of hiking in both a nature reserve and a battlefield, I was thrilled to spend another night at Three Tree Hill. I was lucky enough to have Gin, one of the lodge’s two cats, accompany me in my cottage for the night. The next morning, I took my time savoring a leisurely breakfast, knowing that I only had around 160 kilometers to ride to reach my next destination, Rorke’s Drift. Most of the journey would be on well-paved roads, so there was no need to rush.

There are a couple of ways to get to Rorke’s Drift, but I chose to take the N11 route, which passes through Ladysmith before reaching Glencoe. Interestingly, Glencoe got its name from a glen in Scotland where English forces brutally attacked Clan MacDonald in 1692. From Glencoe, I continued on the R68 road until I reached Dundee. Finally, I made a right turn onto the R33 road that led to Helpmekaar.

What a sight it was! When the battle of Spioenkop came to an end, the lifeless bodies of the fallen soldiers were solemnly laid to rest in trenches. A somber scene indeed, as the soldiers were laid to rest in their final resting place, their graves marked by mounds of soil and stones. But that’s not all – these graves were also carefully whitewashed, serving as a poignant and haunting reminder of the sacrifice these brave souls made.

So there I was, embarking on a straightforward 20-kilometer dirt ride to Rorke’s Drift, with another 20 kilometers awaiting me at its chilling “companion” battlefield, Isandlwana. I highly recommend bringing along skilled storytellers to fully grasp the chilling reality of these places. The intensity is so overwhelming that I suggest visiting them on different days to avoid an emotional overload.

I checked into the Rorke’s Drift Hotel and indulged in a refreshing beer while taking in the breathtaking view of the Buffalo River. Soon after, I hopped back on my bike and rode a short distance to the hospital and provision depot where the historic battle had taken place. Upon my arrival, I was pleasantly surprised to hear the local choir rehearsing in the church on the premises. As I listened, I couldn’t help but notice the irony – they were singing a hymn in isiZulu to the tune of “God Save the Queen.”

Planning Your Trip

Getting ThereIf you’re starting your trip in Durban and heading to the Drakensberg and Midlands, taking the N3 is the most direct route. However, for a more enjoyable journey, I recommend branching off onto the parallel R103. It’s a scenic route that offers a pleasant drive. You can start your adventure in either Howick or Mooi River, depending on whether you’re coming from Gauteng.

What You Need to Know

One of the great things about motorcycle road trips in KZN is that you don’t need to be an expert rider to explore the area. With an adventure bike and some luggage panniers and a top-box for added comfort and security, you’ll be good to go. For information on accommodations and activities in the Midlands, you can visit midlandsmeander.co.za.

Where to Stay

Drakensberg Sun Resort near Winterton is an excellent choice for accommodation. They have 78 spacious en-suite rooms and large common areas for you to relax in. You can also enjoy beautiful walks in the Drakensberg Mountains right from the hotel. Prices start at around R2,000 per person sharing. If you’re interested, you can contact them at 036-468-1000 or visit their website at tsogosun.com.

Three Tree Hill Lodge is a must-visit destination located just outside of Bergville. This unique lodge offers an unforgettable experience that should be at the top of your list. Imagine walking back to your cottage after enjoying a delicious dinner and unexpectedly coming across antelopes along the way. It’s a magical encounter that adds a touch of wonder to your stay.

The lodge offers comfortable accommodation and a warm, welcoming atmosphere. The cost of a stay is R3 240 per person, based on sharing a room with dinner, bed, and breakfast included. Plus, you can easily make a reservation by calling 036-448-1171 or by visiting their website at threetreehill.co.za.

So why wait? Book your stay at Three Tree Hill Lodge and get ready to experience the beauty of the Bergville region while enjoying the charm and tranquility of this incredible lodge. Trust me, it’s an experience you won’t want to miss.

Rorke’s Drift Hotel

Hey there! Welcome to the Rorke’s Drift Hotel. It’s a charming, traditional country hotel that offers great value for your money. Guests always come back for more! If you’re interested, the price is R1 500 per person for sharing, and that includes dinner, bed, and breakfast. You can contact us at 034-642-1760 or visit our website at rorkesdrifthotel.com.

Eat Here

When you’re feeling hungry, the Blueberry Café on Netherwood Farm is the place to be. They have a small lunch menu that offers a delicious beef burger with chips or salad for just R100. And if you have a sweet tooth, you absolutely must try their blueberry cheesecake. It’s beautifully presented, and you can enjoy a large slice for only R50. It’s a real treat! For more information, you can reach them at 033-266-7132.

Thokozisa is a restaurant located in the Thokozisa Lifestyle Centre near Winterton. If you’re hungry for some delicious chicken schnitzel, this is the place to go. They serve it for R88, which is a great price. You can reach them at 036-488-1827.

Nottingham Road Brewing Company is known for being one of the best craft breweries in South Africa. They produce amazing beers like Tiddly Toad Lager. If you’re a beer lover, you definitely need to check them out. You can contact them at 033-266-6728 or visit their website at nottsbrewery.co.za.

Chocolate Heaven in Nottingham Road is a dream come true for anyone who loves chocolate. It’s a paradise filled with all kinds of delicious chocolate treats. Don’t forget to pay them a visit. You can reach them at 033-266-6870.

Cleopatra Mountain Farmhouse is the place to go if you’re looking for fine dining and a luxurious stay. They offer Richard Poynton’s renowned cuisine, which is absolutely amazing. And if you want to stay overnight, they have luxurious cottages available starting from R1 250 per person sharing. For more information or to make a reservation, you can contact them at 033-267-7243 or visit their website at cleopatramountain.com.

Hartford House at Summerhill Stud is a fantastic option for elegant dining. The atmosphere is lovely, and the food is top-notch. And if you’re looking for a place to stay, they also have beautiful cottages available starting from R1 050 per person sharing. If you’re interested, you can give them a call at 033-263-2713 or visit their website at hartford.co.za.

About the bike

The BMW R1250GS and R1250GS Adventure take over from the 1200GS, a bike that’s been extremely popular for both on and off-road touring in South Africa. While the older generation remains reliable and capable, it’s been outshone by the Class of ’19. I’ve had the chance to ride both of these new bikes, and I wholeheartedly agree with a fellow rider who said, “These motorcycles are great for anyone.” Yes, they do have the traditional elements like balance and power-to-weight ratios, but what really makes them stand out is the way they use electronics to enhance their performance, especially with the braking and traction-control systems.

Written by Jim Freeman