A Journey Through Time: Cradock to Durban
Imagine embarking on a thrilling adventure, traveling from Cradock to Durban, while simultaneously journeying back in time. Join me as we explore the wonders of this historical route, discovering hidden treasures and immersing ourselves in the rich tapestry of South Africa’s past.
The first leg of our journey takes us through the rugged landscapes of the Eastern Cape, where we are greeted by towering mountains and sprawling plains. As we wind our way through the picturesque valleys, we can’t help but marvel at the natural beauty that surrounds us.
Soon, we find ourselves tracing the footsteps of the early pioneers who braved the untamed wilderness in search of greener pastures. These intrepid explorers embarked on treacherous journeys, facing formidable challenges along the way. Their resilience and determination paved the way for the development of this magnificent country we call home.
Continuing our odyssey, we arrive in the enchanting province of KwaZulu-Natal. Here, history comes alive as we delve into the tales of mighty Zulu warriors and ancient Zulu kingdoms. The rhythmic beat of the drums resonates through the air, carrying the echoes of a vibrant past.
Immersing ourselves in the local culture, we have the opportunity to witness age-old traditions that have been passed down through generations. The vibrant colors of traditional attire and the melodic sounds of traditional music transport us to another time, where customs and rituals held great significance.
As we make our way to Durban, we are greeted by the bustling energy of the city. This melting pot of cultures welcomes us with open arms, offering us a taste of the diverse heritage that makes South Africa truly unique. From Victorian architecture to delicious Durban curry, this vibrant city has something to offer everyone.
So, are you ready to embark on this captivating journey? Pack your bags, fuel your curiosity, and let’s travel through time together. Join me as we uncover the hidden gems and untold stories that lie along the road from Cradock to Durban. Let the adventure begin!
When I stand at 2,590 meters above sea level, the air becomes thin and unable to hold sound. So when I shout, the sound escapes my lips quickly and bounces off the nearby cliff. It then bounces and jumps from one rock to another, traveling down the long slope until it finally fades away in the distant pastures below. This is the second leg of my journey from Cape Town to Durban, and I am taking the less-traveled routes that lead me into this ethereal atmosphere.
One chilly morning in the Southern Drakensberg, I watched a shepherd disperse his flock to protect a newly born lamb from being trampled. It’s a beautiful sight to witness the tenderness of nature in action.
After summiting Naudé’s Nek Pass in the Southern Drakensberg, my only option was to descend back into the bustling real world. But I couldn’t resist staying a little longer. We were like little rats on a never-ending treadmill down there, but up here, we felt like Leo and Kate on the prow of the Titanic. I couldn’t help but spread my arms wide, as if embracing the world around me. Though I refrained from shouting those famous words, ‘I’m king of the world!’ – it just didn’t fit the authenticity of the moment.
My wife Sarah and I had set off from Cape Town a few days ago, opting for a less popular route to steer clear of the jam-packed N2 as we made our way to Durban. This alternative path provided the kind of isolation that only the Karoo can offer – an unfiltered display of the breathtaking Cape Fold Mountains and the peacefulness of the Swartberg. Our visits to the Samara Private Game Reserve and the Mountain Zebra National Park were gentle reminders that the Karoo had once been untouched wilderness, long before civilization took hold.
If you want to fully immerse yourself in Cradock’s history, staying in one of the Tuishuise is a great way to do it. These unique accommodations allow you to experience the town’s rich heritage firsthand. Each Tuishuis has its own story to tell, with beautiful architecture and decor that reflect the past.
But the history of Cradock is not limited to its buildings. The nearby Mountain Zebra National Park is another place where the past comes alive. It may not fit the typical image of a wild African savannah, but that’s what makes it so special. Located on the edge of an escarpment, this park offers a breathtaking landscape that will leave you mesmerized.
As we gazed out at the flat-topped mountains, covered in a vibrant mix of gold and green, we couldn’t help but be captivated. And then, as if the scenery wasn’t enough, we spotted a mountain zebra. It appeared so graceful against the backdrop of the mountains. And then another one joined, and another. It was a truly magical sight.
As we continued our exploration, we encountered eland, majestic creatures with hides that reminded us of ancient seafaring vessels. Springboks were scattered across the landscape, adding bursts of energy and color. And every so often, black wildebeest would dash away, creating clouds of dust as they galloped.
But the park’s wonders don’t end there. It is also home to cheetahs and lions, adding a touch of wildness and excitement to the experience. The abundance of wildlife in such a unique setting makes Mountain Zebra National Park a must-visit destination for anyone seeking a truly immersive and awe-inspiring experience.
So there’s this town called Cradock, right? It’s not too far from the national park and it’s got a really cool history. The place was built way back in 1848, can you believe that? And get this, there’s this hotel called Die Tuishuise & Victoria Manor that’s been around since then too! It’s run by this awesome lady named Sandra Antrobus who’s made sure the buildings are still standing strong. If you step inside, it’s like you’ve traveled back in time to the 1800s. Pretty cool, huh?
As I looked out at the lambs suckling in the nearby pasture near Barkly East, an image of a perfectly cooked lamb chop came to mind. The cozy hotel dining room created a comforting atmosphere, adorned with warm hues. It was in this setting that I had the pleasure of tasting that delectable lamb chop.
My exploration of the hotel took me to the ballroom, where the elegant strains of classical music filled the air from a portable stereo. Though it seemed a bit incongruous with the Victorian decor, the music transported me to a different era. In my imagination, I could see flickering candles casting a soft glow upon swirling silk skirts and dapper suit tails, while the rhythmic beat of the foxtrot and waltz resonated through the flexing floorboards.
As I stepped into Cradock’s historic Victoria Manor hotel, curiosity piqued within me. The maître d’ greeted me, and much to my surprise, he invited me on a mysterious journey beneath the very floor we stood upon. With a sense of adventure, I followed him as we descended the stairs, leaving the fading music behind.
It was in the cellar that the maître d’ shared the captivating tale of Boer soldiers who were once interned there during the Anglo-Boer War. The British had taken control of the hotel and used it as a place to hold these brave soldiers captive. In the dimly lit cellar, I couldn’t help but look up and imagine the floorboards above me straining under the weight of those heavy jackboots.
As we continued our journey towards the Drakensberg, we passed by the peaceful village of Lady Grey, nestled at the base of the majestic mountains. The further we ascended, the more intricate the mountains became. After leaving the small town of Barkly East, we found ourselves on a dirt road, where the only signs of life were the farm animals grazing in the fields. We spent hours driving along this winding path, always under the watchful gaze of sheep. Occasionally, we would stop to offer handfuls of grass to the mountain ponies, feeling the warmth of their breath on our hands. At one point, we came across a group of cattle drinking from a trough on a hill. They seemed oblivious to the gathering of vultures nearby, perhaps attracted by the scent of a recently deceased cow. It was a reminder that, no matter how much we try to tame nature, we are never too far from its untamed beauty.
As I traveled through the wild slopes of the Drakensberg, I couldn’t help but notice how the pastures became narrower and the valleys deeper. It was as if nature was reclaiming the land, leaving only small traces of domestication along the riverbed. The sound of rushing water filled the air as it flowed over rocks, providing the perfect backdrop for fly fishermen casting their lines in search of brown and rainbow trout.
That evening, we found ourselves in the cozy pub of Walkerbouts Country Inn, surrounded by anglers sharing their tales of success. As we sat in the dining room beneath a captivating portrait of a rainbow being enticed by a fly, we enjoyed a hearty meal that nourished both body and soul.
Our journey to Rhodes wasn’t solely motivated by the desire to catch trout. We had a greater purpose – to catch a glimpse of a special little bird known as the Drakensberg rockjumper. This unique creature could only be found in this very region, making our adventure all the more exciting.
The next morning, we woke up before the sun had even risen, eager to begin our quest. We made our way to Naudé’s Nek Pass, where we had heard sightings of the rockjumper were frequent. With anticipation in our hearts, we set off, ready to embrace whatever challenges lay ahead.
As I was journeying, I noticed three shepherds standing in a sea of fluffy wool. The sight was quite extraordinary! In the chaos, a tiny, dirt-covered newborn lamb caught my eye. One of the shepherds gently scooped it up to protect it from getting trampled. To my surprise, there were more abandoned lambs nearby, needing rescue. Without hesitation, the shepherds found their distressed mothers and led them to a separate field. There, the reunited families were safe from the frenzy of the larger flock.
As I made my way up the winding road towards Naudé’s Nek Pass, I kept my eyes open for any signs of birds. The journey was full of breathtaking views – with each twist and turn, there was a new, stunning landscape to behold. And as the sun started to peek over the horizon, the birds began to make their appearance as well.
Just as I expected, a rockjumper leaped along the road and then gracefully perched itself on a boulder, enjoying the warmth of the sun. Other birds joined the scene, including sentinel rock-thrushes, bokmakieries, and a delightful family of grey-winged francolins. Our bird-watching adventure was so captivating that we ended up spending much more time than planned.
When we finally reached the summit, the sun was shining high in the sky, illuminating the rolling hills of the Eastern Cape below us. It was a breathtaking sight to behold.
While we soaked up the beauty of the scenery, a Verreaux’s eagle, a true ruler of this majestic world, soared gracefully along the slopes. It was a reminder of the incredible diversity and wonder that nature has to offer.
As I embarked on my journey through Rhodes, I couldn’t help but be mesmerized by the pristine waterways and picturesque landscapes that surrounded me. The Southern Drakensberg foothills were bursting with vibrant colors, creating a truly enchanting experience.
Driving in my trusty Suzuki Jimny, I found myself descending down a steep and winding path. As I made my way, I couldn’t help but notice an abandoned farmstead, a relic of the past. It reminded me of the pioneers who once braved the harsh conditions of this rugged and chilly terrain, driven by their unwavering passion.
Our drive continued, and we soon came across a young man on horseback guiding a herd of cattle. With a gentle ease, we navigated through them, admiring the synchronicity between man and beast. Further along, we were greeted by a magnificent flock of crowned cranes, their graceful movements captivating our attention. As we patiently waited for another herd to disperse, we couldn’t resist the opportunity to join in the dance of the birds, much to the amusement of the herdsman.
When I stayed in one of the Tuishuise, I felt like I was stepping back in time and immersing myself in Cradock’s rich history. It was a unique experience that allowed me to truly understand and appreciate the town’s past.
As I explored the area, I couldn’t help but be captivated by the natural beauty that surrounded me. The sight of secretary birds gracefully patrolling the mountainside, their elegant feathers glinting in the sunlight, was a true marvel. Above me, a flock of majestic blue cranes trumpeted their call, creating a symphony of sound that echoed through the air. And in the distance, I caught sight of long-tailed widowbirds, their vibrant colors standing out against the grassy fields as they sailed through the sky, driven by the wind in their search for a mate. Nature’s wonders seemed to be everywhere, and it was impossible not to be awestruck.
The journey to Cradock had been peaceful, a tranquil introduction to the world that awaited us. This rugged countryside had been partially touched by human hands, but it still retained its wild and untamed essence. The slopes seemed to stretch endlessly, the boulders stood immovable, and the rivers roared with imposing power. Driving through this untouched landscape felt like entering a paradise, untouched by time and human influence.
When I looked out at the Drakensberg mountains through the winding roads of Naudé’s Nek Pass, the third-highest in South Africa, I felt a sense of awe. It was a breathtaking sight, and it made me appreciate the natural beauty of this place.
But then, our little Jimny hit the paved road, and we were back in the hustle and bustle of civilization. The speed of the cars, the crowded taxis, and the large trucks that zoomed past us made me feel a bit anxious.
Fortunately, we found solace in a Trappist church near Ixopo. These monks belong to a religious order that values silence and contemplation. They spend much of their day in quiet reflection, and they only speak when necessary. Their actions speak louder than words, and they have made a significant impact on the communities around them.
Since 1885, when they built their monastery in Mariannhill, Durban, the Trappists have established numerous outstations throughout Zululand. They are doers, not just talkers, and their work speaks for itself.
All tangled up like knots on a prayer bracelet, the outstations were a whole day’s ride apart from each other. This way, the monks could spend every night in a Trappist monastery, devoting seven hours to deep contemplation. Over time, many of these outstations grew into full-blown missions, complete with grand churches.
The Mariathal Mission boasts one of these churches, and as I sat inside, I found myself mesmerized by the colorful light shining through its stained-glass window. It made me think about the long pilgrimages the monks must have undertaken, traversing the untamed lands, pastures, and communities of Zululand at a much slower pace compared to our modern world. I can only imagine how they saw this land as a paradise.
Driving the final stretch to Durban on the N3, we found ourselves thrust into the present. Surrounded by trucks stretched out like a chain of railway carriages, we experienced the rush of riding on that bustling strip of road where countless vacationers embark on their seaside adventure. It was in that moment, after the peaceful roads of the Karoo and Southern Drakensberg, that we discovered a secret: there is a way to journey back in time.
Plan Your Trip
Find the Perfect Place to Stay
If you’re looking for the perfect place to stay while exploring Cradock and its rich history, as well as the beautiful Mountain Zebra National Park, look no further than Die Tuishuise & Victoria Manor in Cradock. These accommodations are meticulously maintained and serve as an ideal base for your adventures. Located just 15km away from the national park, you’ll have easy access to both city and nature. Prices start at R400 per person sharing. Contact them at 048-881-1650 or visit their website at tuishuise.co.za for more information.
If you prefer a more rustic experience, Rhodes Cottages in the quaint hamlet of Rhodes offers a variety of self-catering accommodations. Some of these cottages are over a century old, providing a glimpse into the region’s history. Each cottage comes with its own garden and unique charm. Whether you choose a refurbished cottage or one that has been left untouched, you’ll be transported to a different era. Prices start at R280 per person sharing. To book your stay, call 072-4994-569 or visit rhodescottages.com.
Located in Bokmakierie, this place called Kings Grant Country Retreat is a great starting point if you want to explore Mariathal Mission and the Trappist churches in the area. Back in the 19th century, this historic farm provided food for the nearby seminary. It’s got a beautiful chapel and an old mill, and you can stay in rooms that have been lovingly restored like, for example,
The Nun’s Abode and The Monk’s Guest Room. Prices start at R455 per person sharing. To make a reservation, call 039-834-2730 or visit kingsgrant.co.za.
Here’s something you should do:
If you’re in Cradock, you should definitely visit Olive Schreiner’s house. It’s one of the oldest houses in town and it’s filled with interesting stuff from the author’s life. You’ll find her personal library there, as well as exhibits that tell the story of her life. You can even see copies of the books she wrote, including her famous novel, The Story of an African Farm. The house is open on weekdays from 8am to 12.45pm and from 2pm to 4.30pm. On weekends, you’ll need to make an appointment. The address is 9 Cross Street and you can reach them at 048-881-5251.
Hey there! Let me show you some awesome activities you can do in Cradock and Rhodes. Ready for an adventure? Let’s go!
First, I recommend you embark on a fascinating journey through old Cradock with a walking tour. It’s a fantastic way to explore the town and learn about its rich history. The tour costs only R50 per person, and children can join for free. Just contact 048-881-5251 or visit cradock-info.co.za for more information.
If you’re into fishing, then you’re in luck! The streams around Rhodes are perfect for fly fishing. Did you know that rainbow and brown trout have been naturally reproducing there for over a hundred years? It’s incredible! The dams in the area are famous for hosting strong and feisty trophy trout. To make the most of your fishing experience, make sure to get a fishing permit and hire a guide through the Rhodes Tourist and Information Centre. Need their contact details? Reach out to them at 045-971-9003 or visit rhodesinfo.co.za for more info.
There you have it, two fantastic activities to enjoy in Cradock and Rhodes. Whether you’re a history enthusiast or an avid fisherman, these experiences are bound to leave you with wonderful memories. So, grab your walking shoes or fishing gear and get ready for some unforgettable fun!
Join me for an exciting ski adventure at Tiffindell! Located a mere 25 kilometers from Rhodes, this resort is the perfect place to enjoy thrilling summer sports and truly come alive during the winter season. With a beginner slope, as well as blue and red runs, there’s something for everyone, whether you’re a beginner or an experienced skier. No need to worry about equipment – you can easily rent everything you need right at the resort, and qualified instructors are available to guide and support you every step of the way.
Looking for accommodation? Tiffindell has you covered! You can choose to stay in cozy chalets right at the resort, ensuring a comfortable and convenient experience. And the best part? The package includes three nights of accommodation, delicious daily breakfast and dinner, ski passes, and all the necessary gear. It’s an all-in-one deal to make your ski trip unforgettable.
Don’t miss out on this amazing opportunity to hit the slopes and have a blast. Give them a call at 011-781-2620 or visit their website tiffindell.co.za to get more information and book your ski adventure at Tiffindell now!
Hey there, fellow traveler! Why not embark on your very own ‘Trappist Trail’? Don’t worry, there are plenty of ways to experience the 22 Trappist churches scattered throughout KZN. You can choose to go Camino-style, following a multi-day route that involves both walking and driving. Alternatively, you can opt for a cycle tour (just ask about the prices). If you prefer a more customized experience, I recommend reaching out to Sylvia Nilsen at 083-474-8086 or via email at [email protected]. She can help you organize a guided trip tailored to your preferences.
If you’re more of a DIY enthusiast, no problem! The Abbot Pfanner Trappist Trail website has all the resources you need to plan your own adventure. There, you’ll find information about accommodation options, transportation, routes, and other useful contacts. Feel free to check it out at abbotpfannertrappisttrail.weebly.com.
If you’re planning a trip from Cradock to Durban, I’ve got a scenic route that you’ll love! Let’s take the slow and leisurely path, enjoying the beautiful landscapes along the way.
First, head north on the R390, R391, and R58 until you reach Aliwal North. Don’t rush – take your time and soak in the sights. Continue on the R58, passing Lady Grey, until you reach Barkly East. At Barkly East, make a left turn onto the gravel R396, which will lead you to Rhodes.
Now, get ready for some breathtaking views. Take the R396 eastward, crossing over the Naudé’s Nek Pass. This pass can be a bit challenging, especially in wet weather, so make sure you have a sturdy vehicle. After about 22 kilometers from the summit, turn left onto the R56, heading north.
As you drive along the R56, you’ll come across Kokstad. Here, you’ll want to make a right turn onto the R56/N2. After a short distance, turn left onto the N2. Keep driving for about 38 kilometers until you see a left turn onto the R56, which will take you to Ixopo.
Almost there! Once you reach Ixopo, continue heading northeast on the R56. When you spot Thornville, turn right onto the Umlaas Road, following the signs for the N3. Finally, merge onto the N3 and continue south until you arrive in Durban.
Remember, this route may take longer than the more direct options, but the scenic beauty and tranquil pace make it well worth the journey. So sit back, relax, and enjoy the slow route to Durban!
